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Posted
helmet bag? Not so ex la bro...under 50 can buy liao...

 

Really?! Where can I find them? I need those that can hold it's shape without a helmet inside so I can use it to put rubbish and stuff it for the front helmet bay as it can't fit my helmet. Thanks.

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Posted
I'll change my brakes come the next servicing or two. Haha.

 

But I installed handguard -> $200 =(

 

Currently, there're 5 MyRoad on the road. Hope the membership gets bigger!

 

And I'm seeing more and more DT300i kenna accident in MS workshop. DT125i doesn't seem to be selling off the shelves.

 

In this sense, GTS200 is the much better seller.

 

The brake are very easy to change. I especially like the rear brake cause you don't have to remove the wheels to change it - perfect! I have to remove mine to check as it was kinna like jammed - difficult to turn easily and if you spin it won't spin even 1/4 round.

 

I have to remove the rear brake to check and found 1 of the pads jammed. Have to apply grease and put back. Much better now. Don't have the jammed feeling. Can spin 1 round with just 1 wheel flick.

 

Do you know why sym200 are selling better than DT125?

 

Isn't it obvious that it's not about brand. It's cc and price.

 

If there is a Downtown 200 in Singapore, do you think it can give GT GTS a run of its money?

Posted

Yeah.

 

If there's a DT 199cc, that'll sell like hot cakes. But the price had better be good too.

 

SYM GTS $7400 nia.... Haha.

 

Haiz.

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted (edited)
@parotae To Change the rear break pads do you have to remove the exhaust? I a planning to have mine changed o the second service and tyres on the third.

 

No removal of the exhaust is necessary, i am delighted as it saves time for pads check/change. Tight spot for 1 of the caliper screw/bolt but it can be done.

Edited by parotae
Posted

Just pumped petrol....

 

333.3km travelled, using up 11.5Litres....

 

That's a miserable fuel consumption of 28.9Km/L =(

 

Hmm.... What's wrong??

 

And I notice that when the last fuel bar is blinking, power is cut a little. Perhaps that's a measure to help safe fuel?

 

After this tank of fuel, suddenly there's quite a lot of power sia. Haha.

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted
It's your engine oil. When did you change and what brand? I forgot.

 

 

 

Haha. I also forgot the brand.

 

But changed it 1500km ago.

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted
It's your engine oil. When did you change and what brand? I forgot.

 

 

 

Haha. I also forgot the brand.

 

But changed it 1500km ago.

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted

So you've used 3800km on your mineral oil. Time to change and see if there is a difference. It should as this are tiny little tell tale sign of something is wrong. It maybe due to air filter dirty or injector dirty and etc... Go for the simplest most direct remedy first. Which is usually the oil and air filter. Your tires confirmed affect consumption so that one can't do anything about it except maybe a higher tire pressure but not recommended as higher means harder ride and less contact patch especially in the wet.

Posted
Really?! Where can I find them? I need those that can hold it's shape without a helmet inside so I can use it to put rubbish and stuff it for the front helmet bay as it can't fit my helmet. Thanks.

Bro u go to lim ah boy...also known as lab in kelantan lane...is a short lane and u will definately find find it.

Last time a bought one that has a helmet shape for 20 but that is long long ago lol

Posted

Anyone experianced conering thn scrape the main stand? I donno if its a common prob or I am too fat..

Also when shld my first oil change be? Now like vibrating alot leh...

Posted

I changed to fully synthetic 1500 km ago with new oil filter as well....

 

So yeah.. Maybe cos the oil is too good for the bike??

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted
Anyone experianced conering thn scrape the main stand? I donno if its a common prob or I am too fat..

Also when shld my first oil change be? Now like vibrating alot leh...

 

 

First oil change is 500km??

 

Followed by 1500km, then 3000km. Anyways, the first 3 oil change is free isn't it?

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted (edited)

@BaMBiNo the full stand scraping maybe normal as Downtown early batch always scrape the full stand and Kymco make it higher for the new batch which I am having. Obviously I still can get the scoot to scrape the lower body and exhaust but not the full stand. Now don't dare to try as new paint work after I drop the scoot ha ha :p

Bambino your scoot is 1 liter engine oil and no oil filter so have to change at recommended 3000km. Oil rating I not sure. Call MS to check. Thicker oil lessen vibration but increase fuel consumption, engine internal drag and engine protection. Ha ha , good and bad mix together.

 

@topgearalwaysrock I guess it's an idication that the synthetic you use is good for 3800km only. You can just try changing the oil just to see if there is a difference in fuel consumption without touching other parts to make sure it's accuracy. If you can change the oil yourself it's best bit you like to leave it to the expert. As this is a test, oil filter not necessary to change so as to confirm the higher fuel consumption. After you confirmed whether is the oil or not then you can change to oil and filter together. This is how I would do, though not recommended by theory as this is only a test. You can change the oil and filter together but more expensive but then again a filter is still cheaper than changing an engine ha ha.

 

So yes, change your oil and oil filter soon and check your air filter and see the difference in consumption. ?W50 will increase fuel consumption substantially but with better protection and lessen vibration.

Edited by parotae
Posted

Ok. My mileage is approaching 5600km.

 

They'll reset the meter after every oil change right?? Since the reset, its been only 1700km.

 

I doubt its the engine oil fault. Can't be so soon that it starts a rather drastic drop in fuel consumption. I'll check what my next fuel consumption is before confirming.....

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted
Anyone experianced conering thn scrape the main stand? I donno if its a common prob or I am too fat..

Also when shld my first oil change be? Now like vibrating alot leh...

 

I also scraped my pcx main stand when i had corner with the pillon. Yep, it has to do with weight as scooter is heavy in the rear.

Posted

Sorry. Corrected.

 

My mileage is 5570km, distance since last oil change: 1500km.

 

Latest fuel consumption: 28.9km/L (DT125i). Will continue to monitor my current tank of fuel. If it's still the same, I'll change the oil filter [there's apparently a larger one], and see what's the outcome.

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted

After a few trips with the new Dr. Pulley clutch HiT 231801, I can confirm the bike is getting better and better. The annoying noise and vibration when pulling away are GONE!!!, what I definitely notice is that the clutch requires about 1000 more rpm to engage, but once it engages there is no hesitation it is rock solid. I have also tested at high speeds and top end speed is slightly higher I would say 5 km/h more (not a lot but noticeable). When 2 up the situation is the same smooth take off and progressive acceleration. On my way to work this morning, I had the regular morning traffic and unlike before there was not a single shudder, all I could feel was 100% connection between engine and back wheel.

 

The clutch comes with a various sets of spring which can be swapped to obtain a powerful or smooth acceleration; I opted for the configuration recommended by the manufacturer which works excellent for me. Also I have replaced the variator roller weights and plastic guides. The rollers I went for the 15grams, I had previously installed the 14grams but felt that top end speed was slightly reduced, not that I always ride at top end speed but when travelling around the country I felt the lack of it when overtaking.

 

The Malossi bell: well this one is a bit tricky, the bell fits 100% correctly and is exactly the same as the stock one, the only difference are the logos on each one, however it makes a slight noise when the clutch shoes contact the bell, is minimal but as I have developed an obsession from noises from the transmissions it was bothering me..., do not get me wrong it almost unnoticeable but is there : ). I reverted back to the stock bell and the little noise is gone, I cannot explain it why??? As they are identical, I leave it to the difference in materials. After all, my stock bell was not as bad as I thought, it is a bit blue on the outer part but the inner part is in perfect shape and colour.

 

My conclusion, that the stock clutch is not the most reliable out there, the material of the shoes is poor causing our scooters to make weird noises. At some point we were blaming the bell to be the problem but now I kind of like the bell : ).

 

It is still early days but I am hoping for this to be a definite solution to the only issue that was driving me crazy, now is time to enjoy my rides.

 

If you guys have any questions I will be happy to respond to them within my limited technical knowledge.

Posted

Haha. Kymco engineers probably were having a day off I guess.

 

My 125cc isn't having problems. The only problem is the high fuel consumption [or at least it's getting higher with each tank].

 

Anyways, what's the motorcycle age and engine cc restrictions in the UK?

 

Isn't it like 14/15 yrs old can start riding moped, 50cc around?

 

16yrs old, with an L-Plate on the bike, it's eligible to ride up to 125cc??

 

Then 17/18 yrs old, is anything upwards??

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

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