SBF Kymco Downtown 125/200/300/350i Cafe 2013

[wee keong]

That far from what the sales person told me. I was told this bike can go 30km/litre

[Doremi]

Guys what kind of speed are u traveling at to get 30km/l?? I just got my dt300i and my first tank is giving me 23km/litre. I travel max 75km/h

 

Not to worry. It will get better after you have run in the engine.

[Doremi]

I only got 230km I forgot how much I pump but its 21 bux at shell 98ron

 

98 shld be priced ard 2.20. You probably have pumped 9.6litres

[Doremi]

That far from what the sales person told me. I was told this bike can go 30km/litre

 

Dont believe entirely what the sales person say. Normally they also gathered their infos from owners. Give your bike few more tanks to observe. For bigger cc or heavier weight bike, going slow doesnt yield better FC.

[wee keong]

Ic. So roughly how fast is this scooter optimum fuel efficiency speed?

[parotae]

@ juanpauk

Ha ha yes, i am kinna at the stage to just ride like it is and improve it along the way. Thanks to your info, i know exactly what to upgrade

 

@synman

I thought you gonna change engine like as in changing scoot.

I have been shopping around this evening at autobacs, bukit batok and toh guan for engine oil. Wanted to try the japanese Mobil 1 5W50 at autobacs but the 1 liter can no stock, only left with the 15W50 @ $27/liter. They have the 4liter can of 5W50 which i wanted but in tin form 4liter@$158.

 

Went bukit batok to look see at midview building but only motul and agip, the rest not interested. Agip is highly recommened in the maxsym forum but hua chin midview only have 10W60 fully syn $28(confirmed) and the 20W50 is normal type at $18(if i remember correctly)

Unique motor at toh guan have the usual and same brands that look good but can't remember are just as expensive so headed back to autobacs and got myself this........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/d749a567.jpg

cheap and.............hopefully good!

$17.50 for 0.946liters cheapest among the best oil.

If i feel any difference will post my review on it.

 

@wee keong

My average consumption up till now is at a constant, always the same amount when the fuel bar blinks is at 250km and only twice at 230km.

230km i guess i push the scoot alot and another is when i switch to the older ECU.

 

Not even once that i hit 260km. All with 10liters+ fuel. when the fuel bar blinks and you go pump, it's about 10.2liters.

When the light comes on, you are left with 1 liter which will go about 25km but don't push it. I got stuck once with engine stalled in the middle of the road.

I believe that the optimum cruising speed is around 100km/h-110km/h. Just a guess. I have been comparing with paithorn fuel consumption and realised that from 90km/h and below, his bike rpm is way lower than ours thus better mileage at low. Then when 100km/h onwards its about the same speed and rpm. I am working with my memory here, i have to check back on the previous post to confirmed.

I believe that oil plays a very important part. From what i know a 40 oil will have better/lower fuel consumption that a 50 oil but 50 offer better protection and lowers vibration. So it's a fair trade off. Then again our batch is an improve version that improves fuel consumption as in the opposite sense ha ha.

Not to worry, the same batch as us shunoski have the 30km/l consumption. So i guess must ask him how he manage to have such good consumption. Maybe he always travel expressway?

 

@BaMBiNo

This looks good, look see look see only lah, expensive

http://www.scootertronics.com/givigpsholder.html

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/giviz.jpg

[parotae]

Hmmm.....not for break-in of engine...allow 3000miles.

That means they recommend ~4800km of run-in with mineral before synthetics?

Mine is at 3000km, yippie can change to fully syn already

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/5045e208.jpg

[parotae]

Ever wonder if there is a difference between bike oil and car oil?

Besides the wet clutch compatibility is there a difference?

From what i know, bike oil need to be better because it run at higher rpm than car under normal use and thus run hotter.

 

Why are bike oil and car oil of the same brand and viscosity cost differently especially the bike oil costing more? Is it because more additives are added due to the nature of bike engine characteristics?

Edited January 13, 2012 by parotae

[BaMBiNo]

@ juanpauk

Ha ha yes, i am kinna at the stage to just ride like it is and improve it along the way. Thanks to your info, i know exactly what to upgrade

 

@synman

I thought you gonna change engine like as in changing scoot.

I have been shopping around this evening at autobacs, bukit batok and toh guan for engine oil. Wanted to try the japanese Mobil 1 5W50 at autobacs but the 1 liter can no stock, only left with the 15W50 @ $27/liter. They have the 4liter can of 5W50 which i wanted but in tin form 4liter@$158.

 

Went bukit batok to look see at midview building but only motul and agip, the rest not interested. Agip is highly recommened in the maxsym forum but hua chin midview only have 10W60 fully syn $28(confirmed) and the 20W50 is normal type at $18(if i remember correctly)

Unique motor at toh guan have the usual and same brands that look good but can't remember are just as expensive so headed back to autobacs and got myself this........

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/d749a567.jpg

cheap and.............hopefully good!

$17.50 for 0.946liters cheapest among the best oil.

If i feel any difference will post my review on it.

 

@wee keong

My average consumption up till now is at a constant, always the same amount when the fuel bar blinks is at 250km and only twice at 230km.

230km i guess i push the scoot alot and another is when i switch to the older ECU.

 

Not even once that i hit 260km. All with 10liters+ fuel. when the fuel bar blinks and you go pump, it's about 10.2liters.

When the light comes on, you are left with 1 liter which will go about 25km but don't push it. I got stuck once with engine stalled in the middle of the road.

I believe that the optimum cruising speed is around 100km/h-110km/h. Just a guess. I have been comparing with paithorn fuel consumption and realised that from 90km/h and below, his bike rpm is way lower than ours thus better mileage at low. Then when 100km/h onwards its about the same speed and rpm. I am working with my memory here, i have to check back on the previous post to confirmed.

I believe that oil plays a very important part. From what i know a 40 oil will have better/lower fuel consumption that a 50 oil but 50 offer better protection and lowers vibration. So it's a fair trade off. Then again our batch is an improve version that improves fuel consumption as in the opposite sense ha ha.

Not to worry, the same batch as us shunoski have the 30km/l consumption. So i guess must ask him how he manage to have such good consumption. Maybe he always travel expressway?

 

@BaMBiNo

This looks good, look see look see only lah, expensive

http://www.scootertronics.com/givigpsholder.html

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/giviz.jpg

Bro is tt yr bike? I m more interested in that red switch lol.. Hmm..this product is giving me more ideas lol

I intend to use those air tight boxes to seal the gps... But if I can suspend the box between the handle bar..

I will reduce vibration hmm... Thks for the idea bro

[topgearalwaysrock]

My riding is 40% City, 60% highway, on highway I usually max out my DT125i, so am doing 110-120kph =D

 

Most if not all the time full throttle off traffic lights.

 

31km/L much better than my previous tank of 28.9km/L and average of 30.5km/L.

 

And I dont dare to wait till the fuel reserve light is turned on sia. Will usually pump at 330km, which usually needs 10.7L....

[synman]

@parotae

 

Almost wanted to .......

 

Nowadays just get used to it. Until I can change to the Dr Pulley system or they come out with

a better solution.

 

Like I said, it is not a "bad" bike cept for the start.

 

My fuel also blink around 250km. How come my mileage seems better than yours?

I normally pump until above the metal guard, sometimes accidentally overflow.

 

@juanpauk

 

Please continue to update us on your new clutch system.

 

We might have a winner here!

[quizesilver]

Ever wonder if there is a difference between bike oil and car oil?

Besides the wet clutch compatibility is there a difference?

From what i know, bike oil need to be better because it run at higher rpm than car under normal use and thus run hotter.

 

Why are bike oil and car oil of the same brand and viscosity cost differently especially the bike oil costing more? Is it because more additives are added due to the nature of bike engine characteristics?

 

yoz,

generally you got it right.

 

car engine, have the following. low rev, bigger radiator to help cool the engine.

bike engine, have the following. higher rev and smaller radiator and engine size.

 

so the eo usually will break down faster for bike. that is why even when we are using bike engine oil, eg for busa (1300cc), they will recommend that you change every 5000km for abt 3.1L of eo. but for car (swift), they recommend that you change every 10000km.

 

both engine the same cc but one is high rev (busa) even it cruising abt 90km/h will be 3000rpm, swift abt there also. but because busa can go up even higher rev till 10k rpm but swift maybe abt 6k.

also take note, a busa and swift engine is only how big in size and the radiator.

 

the wear and tear is so much high for busa that y, there is a need for better quality oil and with all the additivies etc.

[quizesilver]

@BaMBiNo ,

 

strongly advise you to use a proper mounting such as ram mount

you do not want you iphone to be flyphone.

 

the suction cup as you tested fail...

 

if requires the gps, then use ear piece so that it will tell u (turn left, right etc)

[BaMBiNo]

I have moved the gps from the iu to the dash and have been using for the past day already.. The gps did not fly off coz I used cable ties to secure the mount gps to iu. Now to prevent anything false or untested theories... I decided to do my own testing before posting. I have noticed the vibrations is lessened by alot and I still can hear the gps notifications at avg speeds....for me seeing directions is enuff.. Pics will be up soon. Thanks for the worry bro... But becoz mine is an old bulky gps model..finding a good bracket will be way too expensive and pouches might not fit.. I am using a 5.6inch gps width is abt 1cm. Guessing here.. Enjoy your weekend guys!!

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

[BaMBiNo]

Btw... It didnt fail.. Just that I didnt like heavy vibrations which led me to change the location. It did drop,slide,etc,etc.. Thanks, and enjoy ur weekend bro

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

[topgearalwaysrock]

I think there's potential to the middle of the handle bar!

 

Macham like Honda GoldWing!!

[parotae]

yoz,

generally you got it right.

 

car engine, have the following. low rev, bigger radiator to help cool the engine.

bike engine, have the following. higher rev and smaller radiator and engine size.

 

so the eo usually will break down faster for bike. that is why even when we are using bike engine oil, eg for busa (1300cc), they will recommend that you change every 5000km for abt 3.1L of eo. but for car (swift), they recommend that you change every 10000km.

 

both engine the same cc but one is high rev (busa) even it cruising abt 90km/h will be 3000rpm, swift abt there also. but because busa can go up even higher rev till 10k rpm but swift maybe abt 6k.

also take note, a busa and swift engine is only how big in size and the radiator.

 

the wear and tear is so much high for busa that y, there is a need for better quality oil and with all the additivies etc.

 

Thanks for the very detail explanation. I used to think that motorcycle oil drain interval are like car 10,000, ha ha. At 3000km can feel engine and starting not smooth already. Always wonder how to ride until 10000km, besides user manual always recommend 5000km but don't know why. Further more my scooter only 1 cylinder compare to car 4 cylinder. So now I know why

[BaMBiNo]

Ok here is a quick snap before leaving for work. Surprisingly its not that bad..and drag is down to the minimal....so I am happy abt the new placement of the gps... Looks like I might not be getting rsm mount anymore.. I am going to work on this and take proper pics.

If anyone needs acrylic I still have some... But bare in mind..do at your own risk..

 

Enjoy the weekend..

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/74c5feb0-992e-b2c4.jpg

 

 

 

Btw did anyone change their ecu/cdi to a standalone one?

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

[parotae]

Ok here is a quick snap before leaving for work. Surprisingly its not that bad..and drag is down to the minimal....so I am happy abt the new placement of the gps... Looks like I might not be getting rsm mount anymore.. I am going to work on this and take proper pics.

If anyone needs acrylic I still have some... But bare in mind..do at your own risk..

 

Enjoy the weekend..

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/74c5feb0-992e-b2c4.jpg

 

 

 

Btw did anyone change their ecu/cdi to a standalone one?

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

 

Looks ok but still not safe ha ha. If the gps mount vibrate and rub against your windscreen, your windscreen will have a rubbing mark.

 

ECU/CDI standalone? Meaning after market?

[Doremi]

Went to tangkak today. The feel of touring came. Decided to head to melaka too. Lol. I love riding!

[BaMBiNo]

Looks ok but still not safe ha ha. If the gps mount vibrate and rub against your windscreen, your windscreen will have a rubbing mark.

 

ECU/CDI standalone? Meaning after market?

 

Not safe as in bro? Btw the pic of the pouch u posted is urs? Anyway its stable..the base and mount.... and not rubbing against the windscreen after some road testing.. The part I forgot to leave out is the cable tie part... So during my offday I gotta take it out and see wad I can do abt it... Of coz during the testing ok does not mean everything ok la.. I feel tt having the need of cableties will significantly stablise the mount... Well if it can work for the pins on the mrt track it shld work for this hahahaha(joking)

 

Ecu/cdi: Yup aftermarket like microtech or something like tt? I mentioned microtech coz they have ecu's for motorbikes.

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

[BaMBiNo]

Went to tangkak today. The feel of touring came. Decided to head to melaka too. Lol. I love riding!

 

Awesome bro! How much did u manage to clock? Any pics?

 

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

[parotae]

Not safe as in bro? Btw the pic of the pouch u posted is urs? Anyway its stable..the base and mount.... and not rubbing against the windscreen after some road testing.. The part I forgot to leave out is the cable tie part... So during my offday I gotta take it out and see wad I can do abt it... Of coz during the testing ok does not mean everything ok la.. I feel tt having the need of cableties will significantly stablise the mount... Well if it can work for the pins on the mrt track it shld work for this hahahaha(joking)

 

Ecu/cdi: Yup aftermarket like microtech or something like tt? I mentioned microtech coz they have ecu's for motorbikes.

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

 

Not safe as in - it will drop out from vibration and heat. Guess you already have a fail-safe precaution if it drop off.

 

The pics i posted is taken off the web, not my scoot. The red button you mention looks like hand-grip heater with high and low setting. looks like a burgman.

[topgearalwaysrock]

I really can't wait for enrolling for my 2A. Haha.

 

Wonder what's it like with more power at hand.

[Doremi]

Awesome bro! How much did u manage to clock? Any pics?

 

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

 

Total distance clocked - 500km. (just in malaysia). Cant post any pictures. SBF pictures attachment pretty sucky. Have to resize the pictures tp post up. Too much work.

 

Next ride, going desaru thru E22 highway!