Grounding

[Guest koma]

eh ct wan 2 do 2gether??

[kata_killer]

Originally posted by apek@Oct 5 2004, 03:35 PM

Gounding, ie adding another cable/wire from a prominent location of your bike (eg like the frame to your NEGATIVE battery terminal helps to prolong your battery life & helps your accesories performs at its peak.

 

Current flows from your POSITIVE. Along it's way, it need to 'pick-up' loads from accesories (especially if u hv lots of add on), like air-horn, fog-light, high-powered holigen bulb etc. Those gudget hindered the norm smooth flowing of current to make the cycle. Grounding cable helps to make additional passageway to the flow. Otherwise, 12V OUT only hv 10 or 11V IN (lousy example, but I try to explain in a simple to absorb texts). If u are technically inclined, u noe what i means.

 

It's not normal on standard bike, but try to open car bonet, u will see TWO wire at it's negative terminal.

 

How much? Dont get fooled by those gismos of branded grounding cable. A cheap way, u can just use any left-over home wiring; u noe those type that runs along the wall at our home. A more stylo DIY if u wish; go to Sim Lim basement shop & buy the bare cable, pre-cut at 1M length, sold in a small packet for S$1.50. ONE cable per bike is more than enuf. BARE cable is best.

 

Hope this clarify.

Btw, I just got 1 set of d wire from d supplier I know. Currebtly, d wire u r refering to $1.50 is a lousy wire. Y i say tat is be'cos at d acyual ground wire, inside 1 piece of wire, there are abt 10 copper wire, then inside 10 copper wire, there is another 10 copper wire. This is to prevent d wire from getting short circuit or got moist inside.

 

I duuno if U R refering to d wire I'm taking. But, I always believe at one thing, wat amount of money u pay, wat quality of things U get.

 

So Sorry, if I get u offended...

[Counter-Terrorist]

Originally posted by william_liu@Oct 22 2004, 01:06 PM

Yah lah.... I meant the stock ground wire....

all the 3 bb neigbours can diy together...hehe......

 

stock ground wire got to trace from batt......never see where it lead to........but i still feel complementing with extras leh.....not exchange with stock...hehe

 

wow....can strip vfr...hmm good.....

[Guest nE0]

DIdin't i post this before?

 

Wildcard - Same for your ignition, just subsitute HORN for Ignition .

 

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/10129/DSCN0384.jpg

[WildCard]

huh?

wat the?

How did you know I got a new horn?

Eh, nE0, my Stebel got problem lah. If I haven't start my bike or at idle, my horn works perfectly. But when I'm moving, the sound fizzles out as if insufficient power. Same for my stock horn. Does this mean I need a relay to power directly off my battery?

[Guest nE0]

No, most probably one of the connections is loose, check it out.

 

Fizzling = intermittent connection or water in the horn. I think its the former.

[Guest nE0]

Hey, did you connect your stebels (both) to your stock wiring, or just one? If you connected two, better use a relay or your baby will need a rewiring soon...

[WildCard]

both wires lah. directly plug-n-play.

It's exactly the same with my stock horn. Kept fizzling out whenever I hit the road.

Guess I need another Bosch relay. You got spare?

Sianz. More rewiring work.my fingers are sore twisting the copper wires.

[AlternativeBiker]

Originally posted by kata_killer@Oct 22 2004, 05:00 PM

Btw, I just got 1 set of d wire from d supplier I know. Currebtly, d wire u r refering to $1.50 is a lousy wire. Y i say tat is be'cos at d acyual ground wire, inside 1 piece of wire, there are abt 10 copper wire, then inside 10 copper wire, there is another 10 copper wire. This is to prevent d wire from getting short circuit or got moist inside.

 

I duuno if U R refering to d wire I'm taking. But, I always believe at one thing, wat amount of money u pay, wat quality of things U get.

 

So Sorry, if I get u offended...

Fret not; I take no offence. Just sharing opinion base on experience. Nevertheless, I always believe we learn some, we impart some.

 

Back to topic; ground wire short circuit? How to? Getting moist? Does it matter pertaining to GROUND WIRE?

 

I drive too (sorry abit); under the bonet of my car there are a few of STOCK ground wire from the engine to the body. What does it look like? Exectly the same as the $1.50 of Sim Lim's. I drive a 4WD btw. Anyhow, read my signature.

[Guest nE0]

Change those flimsy stock "ground" wires to some thicker ones, and you might feel an improvement in your engine response, esp for cars.

 

Anyway, Wildcard - I got many spare relays And, use a proper crimp la.Twist twist twist, the exposed parts will corrode.

[WildCard]

Originally posted by nE0@Oct 22 2004, 07:38 PM

Change those flimsy stock "ground" wires to some thicker ones, and you might feel an improvement in your engine response, esp for cars.

 

Anyway, Wildcard - I got many spare relays And, use a proper crimp la.Twist twist twist, the exposed parts will corrode.

hahahaha!

no unless it has.... SUPERLUBE!!!

 

ta ta ta da!!!!

 

 

ok ok. just joking. I will get lah. Too damn lazy to ride to SLT and buy lah. Think I got some spare from the ones you gave me that time. Also I remembered my brother has a box of assorted ones from his previous project. See if I can filch some.

[chansk]

I think there a misconception about the ground issue (pun intended). Some chimz detailed analysis on the need for grounding.

 

I believe the main reason for the number of points (zone) to provide for a good ground is to ensure that all electrical components within that "grounding zone" is able to get a positively (pardon the pun: ground is usually the "negative" lead of the battery) good return from the component to the battery, so that it will work effectively and efficiently. (For example, the Front Forks + top yoke and bottom yoke may be considered as one zone. The main chassis is another zone. The engine is yet another. The rear swingarm is another. For some bikes, the rear (pillion zone) can be another.)

 

The caveat? - the negative lead is the metal part of the motorbike frame, or engine.

 

Let's look at the motorcycle (and cars) electrical design. Most, if not all, use the "common" ground or common "negative" circuit. It means that the electrical component gets its Positive (+ve) supply (eg +12V DC) from the battery by a physical electrical wire. All the wires (except the usually Black ones) in your bikes are used to provide a +12V DC supply to the component. The negative (-12V DC) wire from the component is usually connected to the ground.

 

So, what prevents a any component from getting a good ground back to the battery negative? Plenty.

 

1. To prevent vibrations, the motorbike engine is mounted on rubber mountings that are strengthened with metal. Usually the metal part acts as a connection from the engine to the frame.

 

2. Various components of the bike's chassis are connected by bearings, eg, the front forms to the main frame. Bearings are heavily greased. The presence of grease will prevent or reduce electric current from passing through.

 

3. Steel parts will rust with age, aluminium and othe alloy metals will oxidise. Rust and oxides also prevent or reduce electrical current from passing through.

 

4. When your bike moves, the moving parts sometimes cause a temporary electrical disconnection to take place, eg, if there is an air gap between the bearings. There will be a momentory cut of electricity. The impact may or may not be felt due to the short time (sometimes can be less than 0.5 secs), so you may not feel it. But over a long time, performance may suffer.

 

5. When the engine is started, the gear is engaged, and the wheels are moving, a very small amount of electrical charge is created over the moving components, eg, the rolling wheels, the pistons, valves, alternator, spark plug. If these components are not grounded properly, they will generate magnetic radio frequencies. (if you dun believe, try tuning your transistor radio near the alternator). The CDI, ECU, CPU are affected by stray radio frequencies. The grounding wires act as a physical absorber of these radio frequencies, and direct them to the bike's body instead of letting them drift to the electrical components.

 

"Positive" grounding, meaning physical wiring to connect the various ground zones to the battery to provide physical grounding (instead of assuming the whole bike from the front wheel and rear wheel are fully connected electrically), as well as minimising the stray radio frequencies.

 

Sorry for the long post.

 

Trying to increase the awareness of a black art: positively negative grounding (again, pun intended).

 

Cheers.

[summit]

6 points grounding for $50. Interested, call/sms me at 9339 9969.

[Deltaboi]

just did my grounding 6 pt for $50 bucks...

they do a very good job...

they try their best to conceal all the grounding wires...

good quality wires used...

 

visit u.n.i.q.u.e m.o.t.o.r.s.p.o.r.t.s at eunos industiral park....

[arsonist]

does anyone hear know of ah boon who does grounding for bikes last time? abt a year back? does he still do it?

want to do grounding for my spec2

[nebulaz]

arsonist, u might wan to give him a call..**contact removed**..he might still do...cheers..pm ya his num...

[arsonist]

thanks

contacted him already

so i dun quite get it

there are 2 types of grounding? negative and positive?

must i specifically say which one i want?

which one is better?

[Guest @h_püi™]

heard that doing grounding, is good to use distribution block ... to join all the connection to the negative terminal...

 

is it true? all just tap all the point and tighten it at the neg terminal of the batt?

[Guest @h_püi™]

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/10129/DSCN2787.JPG

 

 

anyone know where can i get the LUG show in the pic above? the lug with the red wire i mean... thankx