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Guest lsbtony
Posted

how is the spare parts availability for this bike? mileage, and performance like top speed etc

Posted

I agreed that cka is charging too much for their original parts!

 

I remember they replaced my foot rest for 60 bucks and claim that it is a original one, from what i see, it is just a normal S4 footrest with rubber padding..

 

I am desperate to find another shop that know how to deal with RW ..

Every other shops i went to are telling me they do not know how to "do" this bike because the parts are very hard to source..

:giddy:

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted

this bike rocks as in

 

It cap people from speeding. at speed 90km/hr it will start to vibrate reminding you that you should not speed no more..

 

Big wheels provide better stability & safety..

 

16 litre of tank size rules as you do not have to pump so often (for me i live in bt panjang and i pump at JB once a week which help me saves a lot in petrol) - FYI, i work in tampines.

 

But all these comes with the agent that isnt treating their fellow customers good..

I am not talking about the main HQ but all those sub branches really cannot make it.. tsk tsk ..

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted

I sometimes do not know how to live with cka man..

 

i think my reputation with them is very bad, i had storm cka- bukit batok outlet with a police car before.

 

Stories goes, why am i so flared up with this agent ..

 

they refused to release my damaged bike after an accident..

getting my to pay either 4600(do claim) first if not 1300(do not do claim) first then they will start repairing my bike, of cause hearing this i will feel "hot" and want to take my bike to other bike shop..

 

in the end i paid 750 bucks just to get my freaking bike out of there in the presence of the police .. for storage charge which total of 15 per day * 33 + 200 admin fee + 55 towing fee ( from TP compound to IDAC to CKA)..

 

I am questioned why do i put my bike there for so long.. my first time accident and i thought the insurance company gonna handle all this for me..

 

but it is not the case, i called insurance company, insurance company get me to call bike shop up, bike shop say will deal with it for me, but must pay first..

 

i ask around, no such thing as pay first.. thats why i hestitate so long and even request cka-bb to release my bike so i can place it at my carpark downstair, the freaking A***e told me no people do such thing.. blah blah..

 

Haiz.. feel so bad that time, now just wanna freaking find a good bike shop that know how to deal with this bike..

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted

this bike maintanence is very low compared to any of the 2T bikes out there..

 

Change EO for like 3000 km travelled..

 

1 question for fellows out here, does the grade of EO , eg , full synthetic VS Semi synthetic affect the fuel consumption?

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted
bros... are there 2nd hand 150cc of this bike? roughly how much... please tell me... i can not tahan my KR fc... too much for a student...

 

if u want a 125cc rw, pls let me know bro cos i am letting go mine...guarantee puas hati punya....U can email me at [email protected] for more details.

 

:thumb:

:popcorn:
Posted
there some differences betwn full-syn n semi-syn engine oil.

whether EO can save fuel consumptions depends on engine condition too,

engine with too much wear doesn't help.

oil grade like 10w-40 has less viscosity resistance than 20w-50

(always read the last 2 digits eg. 40 or 50, the higher the number means more viscosity resistance).

therefore 10w-40 eo might save fuel consumption.

oil flows faster with lesser viscosity resistance but engine will feels a bit rougher.

 

u can save up to 10% of FC avg but easing the throttle, eg.:

1) gearshift at engine 4,000~4,500 rpm.

2) travel at 60 kph on normal road.

3) travel at 90 kph on expressway.

 

don't do this :

1) rush from one junction to another.

2) travel at top speed or >100 kph.

 

 

Hi St,

 

You have quite alot of knowledge there.

Once my EO gets eaten (priston faulty) meaning i have a worn-out engine ?

Can i define as this ?

 

My bike can hit 450km or even 465 km before i need to go to jb to pump up again, nowadays .. my bike can only hit around 430km and it runs empty on petrol. normally, i travelled 90km on expressway and not that sure of normal road.

 

St,

 

you mind meeting up someday around tampines to inspect what needs to be done to improve my bike condition?

 

maybe i will need advise from senior Rwers like you before i decide on what to do to my bike..

 

Rgds

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted
if u want a 125cc rw, pls let me know bro cos i am letting go mine...guarantee puas hati punya....U can email me at [email protected] for more details.

 

:thumb:

 

Hi,

 

You have obtain a class 2A license already? so u wanna upgrade? :cheeky:

 

I thinking of getting class 2A but do not know if the TP gonna be tough ..

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted

Hi,

 

How much did u all replace the rear tyre for RW for?

 

i just got mine replaced but it is a slightly different size.

 

140-60-??(default) replaced it with 140-70-?? ..

 

a bridgestone brand.

 

I got mine got quite cheap, 12x .. when i called all my super4 friends to check, they told me they replace it for around 170-180 ...

 

wonder how much u guys replace it for? :cheeky:

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted
there r a couple of possible causes tat engine oil r consumed.

 

these r the possible causes:

1) engine temperature overheated tat cause the oil to burnt or vapourized.

2) piston rings/cylinder block worn, allow oil into combustion chamber n burnt off.

3) inlet/exhaust valves' stem guide worn engine oil either leaks into engine from inlet or blown off from exhaust.

 

after your repair if it include piston ring n cylinder block rehorn,

it is adviseable after run-in or break-in period, use full synthetic engine oil.

my recommendation is royal purple max-cycle 20w-50

or silkolene fuchs 4T pro 15w-50 (without the plus, 4T pro plus is for sport bike unsuitable for rw).

 

as for meeting up, i already have met a few owners n stop request of meeting up, we can discuss in the forum.

any problems with your rw, do make a visit to CKA-Hq n seek CKA-chief mech Roy's assistances.

 

btw, oem air-filter need to to be replace every 20,000km.

choked air-filter can increase FC.

 

Cool. that is great infomations u got there.. Thanks for the great advise.

 

Finally i found a shop that can get Daelim parts.. at a affordable price too.

 

Hope i can continue maintaining my bike from there.. ^^

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted
beware tat 140/70 has bigger circumference.

make sure u got 1 cm gap between tyre n hugger.

my hugger was rubbed when i cut my chain shorter n adjust the rear wheel forward.

someone did use 150/60 n it is too wide, the side of tyre rubbed against the chain.

recommend 130/70 for rear tyre.

 

sir,

 

kindly advise what is a hugger?

 

after the mechanic fix the tyre for me, he did some chain adjustment.

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted

Hi,

 

I need help.

 

Do not know what is wrong with my bike

 

It Starts to consume more fuel than ever.

 

Last time used to be able to run 465km then go JB just to pump once

 

But, yesterday nite, i went to pump 1 litre of petrol in SG then proceed to JB this morning and i pumped another 15.999 litres of petrol there and my meter clocked 407km..

 

Anybody can tell me whats wrong with my bike's fuel consumption.

The only changes i make to my bike is from using a fully synthetic EO and changed it to Mobil 10W-40 ..

 

Nowdays feel that when i on around 90km at highway, then must slow down a bit because the car in front travelled too slowly, i turn off trottle and then trottle again.. from the process, i get a pull back effect..

I do not know what causes it.

 

Seniors , please kindly advise if you happen to know what is the situtation of what i have described.

 

Thank you.

---unauthorised advertising---

Posted
u r using 140/70 rear tyre which is bigger than 140/60.

bigger wheel needs more power to drive thus fc increase.

to compensate it u can use one tooth less front sprocket;

eg if 15t, change back to 14t.

 

another thing to check is to make sure your brakes r not locked.

do a test a simple rolling-down when u stopping at a junction;

make sure u bike can roll freely to a stop.

 

Noted for the first one, will change to a lower teeth spocket when i next change my EO.

Btw, do you have any idea, what is the default spocket daelim RW come with?

I remembered changing once.

 

I do not understand "do a test a simple rolling-down when u stopping at a junction"

 

do u mean, i find a slope and i do a roll down? with netural gear ?

 

Thank you for your response :)

---unauthorised advertising---

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