Installing ignition.

[ah.heng]

Hi guys, I just bought an NSR 50 and would like to install an ignition for it, but I'm not too sure how the wiring should go. Can anyone advise?

 

I tried googling but results were mostly about installing alarms or totally unrelated stuff.

 

http://dictator.jkyrd.com/files/sizu1.jpg

[ttays_2000]

Hi dude,

 

Did a search for ya in google. Cos previously I thought 2-stroke/kickstart bike cant install electric ignition. Maybe the followng site could help a bit.

 

http://www.strappe.com/ignition.html

[ah.heng]

Thanks, but what I'm actually doing is stripping out the engine and replacing it with an electric motor. It runs purely on batteries so I don't need a spark ignition system, but an on/off switch for the batteries connected to the key, which if I remember right, is what the key ignition does.

 

Maybe I should've phrased my topic title differently?

[fleaz]

a little irrelevant but wow! nice!

[UrAaYu]

Nice bike...Where u bought it?

[ah.heng]

I guess I should mention first that this bike has no electronics.

 

I've bought a junk NSR 50, junk meaning it was an ex-racer that was later cannibalised for parts and whatever left over I bought.

I have the frame, suspensions, brakes and wheels. The engine (whatever's left of it) I'll be selling, I have no need for it as I'm converting it into an electric powered bike. Already ordered my motor and should reach me in a month's time but school is going to keep me busy so the only time I can actually start re-building it will be around August-September period..

 

However... I've not messed around with bike internals for over 4 years, the last being my NSR250.

I don't really remember how the wiring should go about anymore, nuts and bolts = easy. volts and currents = headache.

As this is purely electric, there is no alternator. I'm not sure if I need a rectifier, but if I remember right, that was only to stabilise the electricity generated from the alternator, so I guess I don't need that. Instead I have a 36volts battery configuration (3 12Vs in series, or was it parallel?), which will be stepped down to 12V for the electricals using a DC/DC convertor.

 

Anyone can advice on how I should go about connecting the key switch, lights and fuse to the battery and dc/dc converter?

[Mark Ng]

Originally posted by ah.heng@April 26, 2007 11:07 pm

I guess I should mention first that this bike has no electronics.

 

I've bought a junk NSR 50, junk meaning it was an ex-racer that was later cannibalised for parts and whatever left over I bought.

I have the frame, suspensions, brakes and wheels. The engine (whatever's left of it) I'll be selling, I have no need for it as I'm converting it into an electric powered bike. Already ordered my motor and should reach me in a month's time but school is going to keep me busy so the only time I can actually start re-building it will be around August-September period..

 

However... I've not messed around with bike internals for over 4 years, the last being my NSR250.

I don't really remember how the wiring should go about anymore, nuts and bolts = easy. volts and currents = headache.

As this is purely electric, there is no alternator. I'm not sure if I need a rectifier, but if I remember right, that was only to stabilise the electricity generated from the alternator, so I guess I don't need that. Instead I have a 36volts battery configuration (3 12Vs in series, or was it parallel?), which will be stepped down to 12V for the electricals using a DC/DC convertor.

 

Anyone can advice on how I should go about connecting the key switch, lights and fuse to the battery and dc/dc converter?

Hi, nice project you have.

 

Wen i type engine here, i am actually to your electric motor you are planning to install

 

Since you are planning to use an electric motor to power your bike, i assume you have already figure out a way to regulate torque/speed control for your bike.

 

Correct, You don't need a rectifier, the rectifier is to convert AC current from the alternator to DC so to charge your battery and power your accessories, since your bike don't have internal charging system, you need to take out the battery to charge or build a charging system so you can charge directly from your wall socket. (hmmmmm...might be a problem if you are staying at HDB in Singapore)

 

I assume your motor are running on 36VDC since you need a 3 x 12V battery in series configuration. which also will be further stepped down to 12VDC for your bike accessories.

 

Instead of adding in a DC-DC convertor. I suggest you use a fourth 12VDC battery to power your accessories. Your accessories electrical system and electric motor electrical system shoud be isolated.

 

as for your key switch, perhaps you let me know which configuration you want,

 

Most ignition system consists of the following only, i assume yours is, LOCK (Mechanical), Off ( No Power), Acc ( Accessories Only) and On ( Accessories and Engine).

 

In all cases, i suggest you use a power relay for both your bike electrical system and your electric motor, some ignition have no Acc option, its either On, or Off, so i suggest you connect in this configuration.

 

12VDC Battery -> Fuse -> Ignition input -> and from Ignition output -> Bike electrical system* and Relay COIL* for your electric motor.

 

*The Relay must be of the correct type of rated at 12VDC, not 36VDC. get a correct rating with the amp rated correctly too, i have no idea how much current can your electric motor draw.

 

The Power to your electric motor should go from 36VDC -> Relay -> Speed / Power Controller if have one -> Motor.

 

 

For your Fuse rating, a 15Amp fuse will be good enough for your bike ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, as for your Motor, i have no idea how much current your motor draw, electric motor draws huge current, and in some cases, over 100amp, you need to refer to your electric motor manufacturer for specs.

 

This Web address http://www.strappe.com/ignition.html you provided won't help you in your project, it is talking about ignition system, not your ignition key switch, you just need your key switch to turn on and off the power for your motor right?

 

 

 

[ah.heng]

That was very informative! Thank you!

 

After considering the space in the frame, I think I'll keep it to a 24V configuration instead, may not have space for a 3rd battery. Which is also the reason why I didn't choose to include a 4th battery for the lights.

 

An angmo has recommended getting the stock NSR 50/80 wire harness instead of building 1 myself, I might consider that route. Depends on how complicated it is to build one, just realised I haven't really given it much though.

 

Anyway, time to de-rust and de-oil the frame!

 

http://dictator.jkyrd.com/files/frame1.jpg

http://dictator.jkyrd.com/files/frame2.jpg

[ah.heng]

here's a little size perspective.

 

http://dictator.jkyrd.com/files/5.jpg

[Mark Ng]

well, but i think its better to do the wiring yourself, because you are running on electric motors, you don't need connection to CDI, fuel tank, recitifer, alternator, 2t pump, sensor, temp sensor and stuff, you just need the very basic, signals, headlamp, and perhaps some meter lights? So maybe getting a stock wire harness might not be worth the price..

Also i am wondering what kind of electric motor you are using? what is the specs for it? hmmm.. and i think there are many more obstacles to be cleared also, in this project of yours.. so, be patience, haha..

 

 

P.S ur helmet damn cool eh.. ;p

[ah.heng]

still long way to completion...

 

http://dictator.jkyrd.com/files/front.jpghttp://dictator.jkyrd.com/files/rear.jpg

http://dictator.jkyrd.com/files/right.jpg

http://dictator.jkyrd.com/files/right2.jpg

http://dictator.jkyrd.com/files/20070521224214.jpg

[Demon]

I am fascinated reading about your project. Do keep us updated on your progress.

 

Not sure if you have read about this electrical dirt bike by Zap.

http://www.zapworld.com/ProductDetail.aspx?id=1490

 

Saw a video on this bike racing with regular bikes, quite amazing.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v469/udaloy/Mud_E.jpg

 

[Phang]

Hi, you might want to consider taking a look at those battery powered toys cars/bikes and get some idea on how the placement of the electric motor, battery and electric motor – wheel coupling as well as the wiring and controls.

 

http://www.babyuniverse.com//product_images/pic/103/win103-100779.jpg

 

 

• 2 speed forward (2 ¼ & 4 ½ mph)

• Removable training wheels

• Key activated electronic ignition and engine sound effects

• Push-button horn and headlight 2AA batteries required (not included)

• Realistic "twister grip" accelerator with separate brake pedal

• Adult activated high speed lockout

• Dual motors on rear wheel for high performance

• Includes rechargeable 12-volt (8Ah) battery and charger

• Weight capacity: 75 lbs

[Strong Eagle]

An interesting project. Made me do some back of the envelope calculations as the question about what kind of motor you are using is significant.

 

A typical electric bike uses a motor of about 400 to 500 watts. A moped type bike would be around 1000 watts. My guess is that you would want at least a 2000 watt motor to get decent speed and hill climbing ability.

 

Now, let's take a quick look at batteries. A typical large motorcycle battery has about a 20 amp hour capacity, a typical small car battery around 100 amp hours. Using a nominal 12 volts, this means the batteries have watt hour capacities of 240 and 1200 watt hours.

 

Two 100 amp hour batteries in series (24 volts) would give you 2400 watt hours.

 

So, at best, running your bike at speeds of 30 to 35 kph you could expect around 2 to 2.5 hours ride time. If you use higher speeds and/or climb hills the motor will draw closer to its maximum wattage and your riding time will be limited to 1 to 1.5 hours before needing a charge.

[stsoh]

watch this:

 

Lightning Lithium E1

Electric powerd Yamaha R1, build by Lightning Motors in Oakland.