Honda RVF400/NC35

[Guest Ise]

Fast and Furious racer!!!

[Ken]

u should ride more with me cheh san.

 

so that u cannot speed at all.

 

hahaha.

 

60km/h

 

suddenly, i tot of a real way that can really make ur bike ride like a new bike.

 

that is to change ur piston ring seal, piston block and piston and run in again using the

 

mototuneusa.com run in method.

[Shay]

Originally posted by Ken@Feb 6 2004, 06:16 PM

u should ride more with me cheh san.

 

so that u cannot speed at all.

 

hahaha.

 

60km/h

 

suddenly, i tot of a real way that can really make ur bike ride like a new bike.

 

that is to change ur piston ring seal, piston block and piston and run in again using the

 

mototuneusa.com run in method.

eh eh eh!!! tryin to be sarcastic ah har?? what cannot speed?? har?

 

 

anyhoo...change piston ring n seals ahhh/......very EXpensive wor.... why u say this? dun tell me u did it liao???!!

 

and ISE...no la no fast n furious la....no breakneck speed involved..it was all within controllable/ reactable speeds man....400 and 150cc only la....can run how "Fast" on BKE?? But "Furious"..hmmmm.... maybe abit lah. But definitely not Dangerous! hehehehehehe.

 

[Guest Ise]

Haha so when u goin to track?Then can really be fast and furious and yet not dangerous.....

[jungleboy111]

Originally posted by cheh_san@Feb 6 2004, 08:52 PM

anyhoo...change piston ring n seals ahhh/......very EXpensive wor.... why u say this? dun tell me u did it liao???!!

Yes I agree.... Change the whole set of pistons with the rings and all will cost abt $400+ man....

 

Maybe I'll try the method taught in the website... But i oredi clock 40+km... Probably doesnt make much difference liao...

[Shay]

Originally posted by Ise@Feb 6 2004, 09:55 PM

Haha so when u goin to track?Then can really be fast and furious and yet not dangerous.....

no $$ n resource play track at this point in time.

 

my bike is functioning as my precious kar tar now.

[BeowulF]

Originally posted by BuZZBeaM@Feb 5 2004, 01:01 PM

prevent rim from warping...

they will put neccssary weight at certain part of e rim to make e

whole rim balance out evenly when turning...

help me add if i left out anything

i not very Gen...

 

Sorry BuzzBeam, but you got it wrong.

 

Balancing the tyres are for removing vibrations at high speeds.

 

Due to the tire valve, rim design, tyre tread pattern,etc,etc,

 

the weights are added to make sure the whole whole thing is evenly balanced,

 

i.e. the tyre when rotated freely do not always settle at the same point.

 

So, if you experience tyre vibrations at specific speeds like 50mph, 80mph, etc,

 

you probably need to balance your tyres!

[BuZZBeaM]

Originally posted by BeowulF@Feb 6 2004, 11:02 PM

 

Sorry BuzzBeam, but you got it wrong.

 

Balancing the tyres are for removing vibrations at high speeds.

 

Due to the tire valve, rim design, tyre tread pattern,etc,etc,

 

the weights are added to make sure the whole whole thing is evenly balanced,

 

i.e. the tyre when rotated freely do not always settle at the same point.

 

So, if you experience tyre vibrations at specific speeds like 50mph, 80mph, etc,

 

you probably need to balance your tyres!

THanks!! tat wat e mech told me.. haha..

anyway how do u define tyre vibrations??

some examples please.. i got my tyres balanced

but got some weird feeling....

[BuZZBeaM]

wah lau eh...

FAST & DANGEROUS is CheH_SAN !!

[Ken]

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....s&CODE=03&ID=15

 

for u cheh san.

 

if i got chance to buy a new bike, sure gonna follow this.

[Hyde81]

anyone fix air horn on their NC35 cos i find the original horn very soft and wanna change it

[Cyanide14]

hiz!

 

how's the scrapped RVF parts going on?

thanks!

[Hyde81]

to the person who say that he going to ground his bike : how any improvement after grounding

[Shay]

HAZARD WARNING

=============

 

 

Dunno where to post this so tot i'll WARN fellow RVFdians here....

 

On me way home from BT Panjang rd.... gg towards BKE Woodlands, the ramp/filter up the BKE is layed with freakin LOTS of peebles, sand and stones..i do mean ALOT!!....and i was begining on a lean when my tires hopped goin across those patches of dirt. i was scared shitless.

 

i think some damn trucks carrying quarry stones or watever spilled those when its takin the turn up BKE..bloody truckers!! TP should fine those bas***ds!

 

So those staying BT panjang one, please be careful when u take go up BKE towards woodlands...esp Buzz n Ken. coz those dirt will unlikely be cleared for some time.

 

[Shay]

Originally posted by Ken@Feb 7 2004, 02:40 AM

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forum/index....s&CODE=03&ID=15

 

for u cheh san.

 

if i got chance to buy a new bike, sure gonna follow this.

yo ken! u got the wrong guy la...Buy New bike?? not me leh!

 

i'm stickin to my Revy (my RVF) for a loooong time.

 

i think Buzz and Jungle should read it la..buzz gg to CHUD Kawa 636 and Jungle's sort of got a new engine??

 

anyway thaz a good article.

 

but dun undertand the "warming up" part..whats rev up 3/4 then full throttle then later switch off? doin during moving or idling? didnt know warm up bike so ma fan de.

 

any1 can enlighten?

 

oh and nice meeting you guys, Jungle and U.S Monkey...sorry didnt tok to u all much, me got headache and busy been confused dealing with the mechs there this afternoon....sighhh.

 

[jungleboy111]

Originally posted by cheh_san@Feb 8 2004, 05:06 AM

oh and nice meeting you guys, Jungle and U.S Monkey...sorry didnt tok to u all much, me got headache and busy been confused dealing with the mechs there this afternoon....sighhh.

 

Its was great to finally meet the all famous dlm and cheh san...

[Shay]

Originally posted by jungleboy111@Feb 8 2004, 11:10 AM

Its was great to finally meet the all famous dlm and cheh san...

FAMOUS??? not me not me! what did i do? im the innocent RVF ~~~~

 

[Ken]

for us, if run in on street, then we dun need to switch off engine cos got enough air intake to cool the engine.

 

1st, when we took the bike, we must used only mineral oil based enging oil and warm up the bike to maybe 80 degree celsius, points to note is to warm up the bike to high degree first.

 

2nd, for the 1st 30km(20miles), try ur best to rev till at least 40% of ur RPM meter ( if max rpm is 13k, then rev till at least 5k) then from 5k u rev up to 8k and close throttle only and let it drop to 5k and when reach 5k, rev it up to 8k again. repeat the process, for the whole 30km. and when got chance, rev from 5k to 10k rpm. and engine brake hard. when reach all the stated rpm, do not maintain it. this siwhat it means by rev 40% - 60% and from 40% - 80%.

 

but it is quite impossible to do it in singapore road, so try to use 2nd gear and 3rd gear only(u gauge urself on road traffice.). but this percentage is for running in at dyno machine, it is the best way, but on road, it is not as u wish.

 

so the main idea is to rev hard but never exceeds 10k rpm and let it engine brake hard. so is dun let the rpm maintain at same rpm and must see ur rpm needle go up and down up and down.

 

then after the 1st 30km, go change engine oil again with mineral based engine oil and oil filter. then continue the reving process for the next 2400km. try to change engine oil and oil filter as much as possible. like the K3 change engine oil every 200km.

 

while using mineral based engine oil, best is to switch off engine when ur bike temperature had hit around maybe 110 degree celsius, cos the mineral based engine oil will break down at 120 degree and instead of protecting, damage ur bike.

 

Summary,

 

the bike must be rev hard to at least 8 - 10k rpm from start and engine brake hard. make sure ur rpm needle is always up and down hard, not maintain, or remain at lower rpm range.

 

Do not Lug ur engine ( e.g bike at 4th gear but rpm is 3k rpm.)

 

on road, use 2nd gear n 3rd gear is already very fast liao, watch out. dun corner, rev only on straights. continue tis process for the whole run in process.

 

after first 30km, MUST change engine oil and oil filter. after that every 200km change both.

 

as suggest by that K3, which mototune did not mentioned about, (gauge ur own) for the first 500km, do not rev over 10k. from 501km to 1000km, do not rev over 12k. 1000km onwards, got time, can go try full throttle liao.

 

Run in till 2400km. all this while, use only mineral based engine oil. and at any point of time u see ur bike temperature going to reach 120 degree celsius only, must switch off engine to let it cool down.

 

since to run it in dyno is quite impossible to us, so the best is to run in at gudung.

 

after 2400km, use full synthetic engine oil. and try top speed. and u may wanna go loois try use dyno see ur BHP?

 

so the article means if u wanna have good bhp and bike can live longer without problem is to follow this way of run in.

 

my friend 03R1, run in the usal low rev and maintain rpm way, after 1 year with 20000km millage said bike got no power liao. like when rev, the bike wont go, not like last time, rev only response. the article oso say if run in the traditional way, when bike reach 32000km, bike is problematic liao with power loss.

 

as the piston oil seal had leaked thus the power is not transmitted immediately and the engine oil will start to leak and cause problems to ur engine parts.

 

so cheh san, u may wanna change ur piston block, piston and piston oil seal and run in again like this article, sure ur bike power will be good.

[Shay]

KEN~~!!!! you ARE the Freaking INFO -WIZARD!! Ming Bu xu chuan!!

 

i oredy saved yr essay in my laptop...it'll definitely come in handy when i get my dreambike 3 years later, coz i cant remember all the steps.

 

its a very very good and informative article!

 

 

and no la..dun think i'll do that for my Revy..coz then i have to run the buuger in...troublesome and EXPENSIVE to replace all the pistons/rings/seals....im happy with what the bike can do at this time.

 

anyone wana la kopi today?

 

[Ken]

i m just translating from the article.

 

when u migrate there, got dyno to run in liao.

[usmonkey]

Whow Ken, i was reading your article and i got literally lost halfway though!!

Anyway, how was the double bubble Mr San? Give us a review on da product.

[Shay]

Originally posted by usmonkey@Feb 8 2004, 03:56 PM

Whow Ken, i was reading your article and i got literally lost halfway though!!

Anyway, how was the double bubble Mr San? Give us a review on da product.

ehhh....the Bubble just look so sweeeeet!!! but as for the wind protection thingy..iz slightly improved..better than stock but i need to don my FF to really find out.

 

when i duck me head down..its not as high as i like it to be.maybe coz im tall. and at nite...the instrument lights get reflected off the bubble inside coz mine is smoked bubbble..kinda chio but oso distracting..esp if u go m'sia at nite...i think clear bubbles would be a practical choice but im a bloody poser ..smoked bubbles looks better for my image! wahahahahaha.....

[Marcng]

Originally posted by Ken@Feb 8 2004, 03:10 PM

for us, if run in on street, then we dun need to switch off engine cos got enough air intake to cool the engine.

 

1st, when we took the bike, we must used only mineral oil based enging oil and warm up the bike to maybe 80 degree celsius, points to note is to warm up the bike to high degree first.

 

2nd, for the 1st 30km(20miles), try ur best to rev till at least 40% of ur RPM meter ( if max rpm is 13k, then rev till at least 5k) then from 5k u rev up to 8k and close throttle only and let it drop to 5k and when reach 5k, rev it up to 8k again. repeat the process, for the whole 30km. and when got chance, rev from 5k to 10k rpm. and engine brake hard. when reach all the stated rpm, do not maintain it. this siwhat it means by rev 40% - 60% and from 40% - 80%.

 

but it is quite impossible to do it in singapore road, so try to use 2nd gear and 3rd gear only(u gauge urself on road traffice.). but this percentage is for running in at dyno machine, it is the best way, but on road, it is not as u wish.

 

so the main idea is to rev hard but never exceeds 10k rpm and let it engine brake hard. so is dun let the rpm maintain at same rpm and must see ur rpm needle go up and down up and down.

 

then after the 1st 30km, go change engine oil again with mineral based engine oil and oil filter. then continue the reving process for the next 2400km. try to change engine oil and oil filter as much as possible. like the K3 change engine oil every 200km.

 

while using mineral based engine oil, best is to switch off engine when ur bike temperature had hit around maybe 110 degree celsius, cos the mineral based engine oil will break down at 120 degree and instead of protecting, damage ur bike.

 

Summary,

 

the bike must be rev hard to at least 8 - 10k rpm from start and engine brake hard. make sure ur rpm needle is always up and down hard, not maintain, or remain at lower rpm range.

 

Do not Lug ur engine ( e.g bike at 4th gear but rpm is 3k rpm.)

 

on road, use 2nd gear n 3rd gear is already very fast liao, watch out. dun corner, rev only on straights. continue tis process for the whole run in process.

 

after first 30km, MUST change engine oil and oil filter. after that every 200km change both.

 

as suggest by that K3, which mototune did not mentioned about, (gauge ur own) for the first 500km, do not rev over 10k. from 501km to 1000km, do not rev over 12k. 1000km onwards, got time, can go try full throttle liao.

 

Run in till 2400km. all this while, use only mineral based engine oil. and at any point of time u see ur bike temperature going to reach 120 degree celsius only, must switch off engine to let it cool down.

 

since to run it in dyno is quite impossible to us, so the best is to run in at gudung.

 

after 2400km, use full synthetic engine oil. and try top speed. and u may wanna go loois try use dyno see ur BHP?

 

so the article means if u wanna have good bhp and bike can live longer without problem is to follow this way of run in.

 

my friend 03R1, run in the usal low rev and maintain rpm way, after 1 year with 20000km millage said bike got no power liao. like when rev, the bike wont go, not like last time, rev only response. the article oso say if run in the traditional way, when bike reach 32000km, bike is problematic liao with power loss.

 

as the piston oil seal had leaked thus the power is not transmitted immediately and the engine oil will start to leak and cause problems to ur engine parts.

 

so cheh san, u may wanna change ur piston block, piston and piston oil seal and run in again like this article, sure ur bike power will be good.

this method of run in also save petrol cos i have try it out in my bike the run in power wise dunno nvr ride any other bike b4 but confirm save petrol..but the run in is like riding a horse....have to ride the horse for abt 2 weeks time to compelete the run in.......thats for me la and u use this method must also scare of TP cos u r going in high speed like 200++km/h...

[vroomvroom]

Originally posted by cheh_san@Feb 8 2004, 03:38 PM

KEN~~!!!! you ARE the Freaking INFO -WIZARD!! Ming Bu xu chuan!!

 

i oredy saved yr essay in my laptop...it'll definitely come in handy when i get my dreambike 3 years later, coz i cant remember all the steps.

 

its a very very good and informative article!

 

 

and no la..dun think i'll do that for my Revy..coz then i have to run the buuger in...troublesome and EXPENSIVE to replace all the pistons/rings/seals....im happy with what the bike can do at this time.

 

anyone wana la kopi today?

 

yeah .. nice info . i have saved it on my desktop as well :cheer:

 

but change engine oil so often for first 2400.. sure spend a lot lo ..

 

btw, where does the idea of maintaining low rpm for running in comes from? have to be true in some way else pple wont spread it right?

[vroomvroom]

Originally posted by Ken@Feb 8 2004, 03:53 PM

i m just translating from the article.

 

when u migrate there, got dyno to run in liao.

where is he migrating to ??