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Posted

 

I find it improves your fuel consumption and like of your brake components.

How often do you do it?

 

I feel that local riders do not really do it. Why?

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

  • Replies 18
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Posted

normally i just change brake fluid, clean and re-greased the brake caliper.

 

went to Yamaha parts distributor to buy some parts for the rebuild job that i intent to do sometime back. the staff told me a new caliper cost just 30 plus the last batch he had although he does not have any on hand now.

 

do check the price of your brake caliper first. sometime, getting individual parts like seals, anti-rattle spring, rubber boot etc cost more then the whole brake caliper itself.

Posted

I do it every time during brake pad replacement too, and brake fluid replace annually helps to keep the seal in good condition.

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2011/02/12/bikepics-2150911-full.jpg

Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750

http://www.motorvoordelig.nl/images/laser/pics_hot_kaw_z750_04-.jpg

 

My Z750 DIY Page

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

 

04 Z750 Specification

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

Posted

Also, if you have a sliding caliper, it is a good time to clean out the old, dried grease and lube it with fresh grease :thirsty:

 

no picture no talk

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN5661.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN5663-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/3-2.jpg
Posted

i clean and re-grease it yearly using silicone grease. i found petroleum lithium soap grease dried up pretty fast and swell the rubber boots. some brake caliper grease using PAO work great too.

 

i also took out the anti-rattle spring pad. there seem to be less drag on the brake without it:thirsty: just that got to put up with some noises.

Posted

I have this in my tool box, use it on my bikes and car.

 

My previous car brake pads can last 100,000km, the factory grease dried up at 100,000km and my own grease still good when I replaced the second set of pads at 200,000km

 

I reckoned this bottle can last me a life time :thisrty:

 

http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/W01331828487PMX.JPG

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/3-2.jpg
Posted
I have this in my tool box, use it on my bikes and car.

 

My previous car brake pads can last 100,000km, the factory grease dried up at 100,000km and my own grease still good when I replaced the second set of pads at 200,000km

 

I reckoned this bottle can last me a life time :thisrty:

 

http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/W01331828487PMX.JPG

 

Where did you get this from?

rien d'autre que le max.

Posted

I using the maxima grease from mustafa $16 it says water repellent so far so good.

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

Current Ride - 2004 Kawasaki Z750

http://www.motorvoordelig.nl/images/laser/pics_hot_kaw_z750_04-.jpg

 

My Z750 DIY Page

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/361701-2004-Kawasaki-Z750-DIY-Guide

 

04 Z750 Specification

http://jarlef.no/Kawasaki/PDF/2004/PDFfiles/z750PDF04.pdf

Posted
Where did you get this from?

 

amazon is another place you can get the brake caliper sliding pin grease. lots of choices out there.$20 plus dollars can get you something decent.

 

seriously i won't sweat over the type of grease to use as long as it is does not harm rubber parts and won't dried up easily due to heat, dirt and water. well, it just for sliding pins. not something that is high load bearing. Sim Lim Tower have silicone grease for sales at a good price. i got the dow corning 111 compound which is better just for the hack of it.

Posted
I using the maxima grease from mustafa $16 it says water repellent so far so good.

 

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

i got the bel ray waterproof grease for other purposes.

 

i perfer bel ray aluminum complex thickener over Maxima lithium complex thickener.

Posted

Besides compatibility with rubber parts, dropping point of the grease also important in this application :thirsty:

 

http://lubricantknowledge.com.au/images/Dropping%20Point.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/3-2.jpg
Posted
Besides compatibility with rubber parts, dropping point of the grease also important in this application :thirsty:

 

http://lubricantknowledge.com.au/images/Dropping%20Point.jpg

 

not a problem. most silicone grease is good for at least 200C service temperature. dropping point can be from 220C to 250C depending on the type of silicone oil and thickener used. silicone grease normally have lower bleed and evaporation rate then other type of synthetic grease like PAO and PAG. if the sliding pins get hotter then this under normal condition, you have a bigger problem then what type of grease you are using.

 

of course if you are thinking of something more extreme then day to day usage like tracking, it will be good to choose something else. the main problem with silicone grease is it rather poor load bearing ability. with extreme temperature, what left of most grease will be solid lubricant additives. grease with higher percentage of solid lubricant will help a lot. at the same time, the rest of the components like brake fluid, pad, disc etc better be up to it as well.

Posted

I appreciate the replies.

 

May i ask, I dont pop out the pistons but extend them pretty far. I have a problem reaching the sides closest to the wall. Was thinking if a piston pliers are worth their cost to rotate the pistons.

 

I bought brake parts cleaner but it seems to evaporate too fast before i can scrub it. Thus, ended up using soapy water.

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

Posted
I appreciate the replies.

 

May i ask, I dont pop out the pistons but extend them pretty far. I have a problem reaching the sides closest to the wall. Was thinking if a piston pliers are worth their cost to rotate the pistons.

 

I bought brake parts cleaner but it seems to evaporate too fast before i can scrub it. Thus, ended up using soapy water.

 

most bike shop i notice just use normal pliers and a rag to prevent damaging the piston when pulling them out. not sure how it will work for rotating it.

 

you can use a very fine sand paper to get rid of any built-up on the piston. washing it with soap and water is fine.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Anually for me....

 

It depends on the severity of the calliper....dirts built up can astonishing at times eventhough we might think initially it was still ok for usage not until everything is dismantle (service procedure) time.

DIY will be fine for me and those riders who has the manual download n study the process.

For those have doubts on DIY just send to your preferred shop and settle it for a good cause...

 

 

Cheers

*Adrenaline Rush*

Posted

Anually for me....

 

It depends on the severity of the calliper....dirts built up can astonishing at times eventhough we might think initially it was still ok for usage not until everything is dismantle (service procedure) time.

DIY will be fine for me and those riders who has the manual download n study the process.

For those have doubts on DIY just send to your preferred shop and settle it for a good cause...

 

 

Cheers

*Adrenaline Rush*

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