New rider here.. Need some help..

[tneozx]

First, I would need to say this may be a tad long as I have quite the number of things to ask. I thank anyone who will help =]

 

Bike: CBF150

Second hand, bike was registered from 2007[i just got it for about a week]. Was so eager and so ill-knowing, so I went ahead with it(plus it was kinda a steal?). The previous owner had it for 7 years and decided to let it go since he drives more than he rides. When I got it, it was freshly painted and he informed me inspection and servicing passed in October '14. The tires were newly changed(at least i think it was? the hair like things were still on it) but he warned me that the engine needed some time to warm up before riding.

 

1) coming to my first problem, after starting the bike I have to throttle and maintain it for a while before the engine will stabilise. Is the revving going to be a problem?

 

2) my rear brakes tend to have a weird feeling when i just take off. somewhat of a 'crank' sound when i press it over a certain amount. it will only happen once and the rest of the ride will be ok. Sometimes i can avoid it if i press my brakes hard before i start my ride.

 

3) from his paint job, i can't see my brake fluid level. how much would it be roughly to get it replaced??

 

4) i find it a tad difficult to change from gear 1 to neutral. it was like this when i was viewing other owners' CBF150 too. Is this common?

 

5) i already known that this bike wont be some speedy one but i myself have not tried to go beyond 70kmph as the engine sounds really scary as compared to when i was in cdc riding the ybr125. will going at 90kmph be pushing it too hard? =\

 

6) Thanks in advance for any help and extra tips esp under maintenance.. i feel like a total idiot... =[

[PolarisX]

Firstly, welcome to riding.

 

1) No issues with revving the bike. For small engine capacity bikes, esp those carburettor one, cold start is normal. My very first bike was a Honda Tiger 200, always had cold start and had to rev or open up the choke before I could get the idle engine rev to be stabilised. You may consider getting your carburettor serviced if you want to have a second opinion. In the future, when you upgrade to a larger cap bike, and if its fuel injected, you're gonna feel a hell of a difference.

 

2) Cant recall if CBF150 rear brakes are drum or disc brake. If drum brake = normal over the years (same problem for old cars with rear drum brakes). If disc brake, cheap solution would be get the brake pad replaced if worn out. Expensive solution is getting your disc rotor serviced/replaced if its wrapped.

 

3) I don't understand what you mean. You are telling me the ex-owner painted over the brake fluid reservoir?

 

4) Perfectly normal for 2B bikes manual gear bikes. Spray some WD-40 at the foot gear, it will help.

 

5) Always ride within your comfort zone. Don't push yourself or your bike if you are uncertain. P.S. Sg law max speed is 90km/h.

 

6) As a new rider/bike owner, you'll be paranoid about the slightest of things. But as the years go by, you'll get a hang of it and become a more proficient rider/owner. Most importantly, enjoy your ride and stay safe.

[tneozx]

Thanks PolarisX for the help! For 3) yea i think so as the fluid reservoir is broken and I can't see the fluid level inside. It is now like a flimsy plastic that is black >

[schoolboy]

for your reservoir, you can just open up the cap and see the fluid level. just becareful to wrap the surrounding areas with a towel as the fluid is corrosive and it'll eat your paint up.

[tneozx]

i see.. thanks for the tip =]

[zalk]

1. If difficult to idle when cold then just pull choke nia. No problem at all. Thats the point of the choke. Choke should be under left handle grip I think for CBF150. Its a little lever.

 

2. Maybe get the brake dust cleaned off your drum brakes.

 

3. One piece of plastic nia the brake fluid reservoir thing. Shouldn't be more than 10 or 20 bucks.

 

4. Lube your gear lever. Could be slight rust.

 

5. If it vibrates too much you can change your rear sprocket size so the engine won't rev too high at higher speeds. Should be a little better.

[tneozx]

Oh... my display is the old one where there are gear indication instead of the tachometer... so its based on pure feeling on the amount of revving..

[swissbake]

After getting a second hand bike ALWAYS send in for servicing to identify and correct any faults. Scout the forum for shop recommendations.

[tneozx]

Oh.... ok....

[duo]

If the deal sounds too good to be true it may well be. Its a 7 years old bike. There will be wear and tear. The method you use to judge the tyres is not proper. Do not kick it too hard and you should be able to engage to neutral easier. If you only travel at 70km/h please do not go in the expressway for your safety. Did you not go for the expressway familiarization ride? Did you not see even lorries are going more than 70km/h.

[tneozx]

Yea I did go for the efr... Now I'm slowly getting used to being on the expressways... although only gg roughly 80... The threads still look good enough for the tires... Sadly learnt through a shop that there were some small problems... Right now pretty happy with the bike still and I still feel its quite the good deal.. So thanks for your advice still

[duo]

Yea I did go for the efr... Now I'm slowly getting used to being on the expressways... although only gg roughly 80... The threads still look good enough for the tires... Sadly learnt through a shop that there were some small problems... Right now pretty happy with the bike still and I still feel its quite the good deal.. So thanks for your advice still

You will get used to it. First time I was on the expressway I was strictly going at 90km/h.

 

Then I realised nobody actually really goes 90km/h only because even the goods vehicles (70km/h limit) were zooming pass me constantly.

 

Now if I were to go too slow I fear for my own safety. Take your time to adapt. Learn from mistakes but try not to make too many mistakes.

 

The best way to look at tyres is by the production date. Tyres kept for long and not used will still have good threads but the rubber already hardened over time. Lastly ride within your capabilities and ride defensively.

[Keoni]

for your reservoir, you can just open up the cap and see the fluid level. just becareful to wrap the surrounding areas with a towel as the fluid is corrosive and it'll eat your paint up.

 

Ermm...I don't know if you would really want to open the brake fluid reserviour. If air gets trapped in there you might be in for some exciting experience. I leave anything to do with the braking system to my mech.

[tneozx]

Ermm...I don't know if you would really want to open the brake fluid reserviour. If air gets trapped in there you might be in for some exciting experience. I leave anything to do with the braking system to my mech.

Thanks for the advice! Went to planet to service instead... had to change the entire brake reservoir....

[Siphon]

Hehe... i changed mine too... when you have some funds, you might want ah chong to look at the following.

 

1. Sprockets, front and back (if rounded just change as you have 3 years more)

2. Chain. Might be elongaged (Not sure how many times it has been tightened. Also check for rust. After the initial "buttering" which they like to do, check up on some spray on non fling type of wax. works well)

3. Brakes pads and brake disk.

4. Tyres are no joking matter. Look for the date of manufacture. If more than 3 years since manufacturing, check for "softness" or look for crack marks. If your sidewall has those cracked marks due to drying. time to change. You only have 2 tires... unlike cars...

5. Air filter and spark plugs...

 

My first mini "overhaul" was about 500+ with all original parts for my TA200. After that... just need to do EO change every month... TA200 is notorious for burning up oil... for strange reason...

 

Have fun Ride safe!

[tneozx]

Hehe... i changed mine too... when you have some funds, you might want ah chong to look at the following.

 

1. Sprockets, front and back (if rounded just change as you have 3 years more)

2. Chain. Might be elongaged (Not sure how many times it has been tightened. Also check for rust. After the initial "buttering" which they like to do, check up on some spray on non fling type of wax. works well)

3. Brakes pads and brake disk.

4. Tyres are no joking matter. Look for the date of manufacture. If more than 3 years since manufacturing, check for "softness" or look for crack marks. If your sidewall has those cracked marks due to drying. time to change. You only have 2 tires... unlike cars...

5. Air filter and spark plugs...

 

My first mini "overhaul" was about 500+ with all original parts for my TA200. After that... just need to do EO change every month... TA200 is notorious for burning up oil... for strange reason...

 

Have fun Ride safe!

Wow thanks for the advice! The boss at planet said that engine still young.. no major fault to replace at that pt of time... maybe i will go check up my tires since i just pumped them but the rear seems to be leaking...

Probably will be sticking to planet for the future

[duo]

Wow thanks for the advice! The boss at planet said that engine still young.. no major fault to replace at that pt of time... maybe i will go check up my tires since i just pumped them but the rear seems to be leaking...

Probably will be sticking to planet for the future

Sprockets and chain best to change as a set. Needs changing when the teeth becomes pointed not rounded and when the chain has stretched to the point its not advisable to tighten anymore. Go to your choice of petrol kiosk and pump your tyres. After a few minutes check the pressure. If it drops alot then there might be a major leakage. If not then it should be fine. Make an effort to meet some of the old birds and learn a thing or two from them. However some of their advices you got to take it with a pinch of salt.

Edited January 17, 2015 by duo

[tneozx]

Yea I do ask advice from a good friend who has rode for a few years... she is kinda lazy though thanks for your thoughts everybody