DIY LED Signal (UPdates page 4 brake light)

[Guest nE0]

Originally posted by BaMBiNo@Mar 1 2006, 06:20 AM

neo ask u ar... u able to do pole lights with does really bright leds bo? been looking for the pole connector but in vain... anyone noes where i can get my hands on those?

Actually, yes. I've bought a bag of plastic pole light wedges that I can mount LEDs on. Problem is, I can't find a way to mount a heatsink, resistor AND led onto the tiny wedge.

 

Kinda gave up on the idea already. It will only work if you can access your polelight from infront, not those plug in from the back type.

[BaMBiNo]

neo where u got them from huh ?

[maxipower]

Originally posted by nE0@Mar 1 2006, 12:54 PM

Actually, yes. I've bought a bag of plastic pole light wedges that I can mount LEDs on. Problem is, I can't find a way to mount a heatsink, resistor AND led onto the tiny wedge.

 

Kinda gave up on the idea already. It will only work if you can access your polelight from infront, not those plug in from the back type.

nEO,

 

How to ensure the fix-value resistor limit the correct current input into the LED with a fluctuating voltage supply by the alternator when the bike is cheonging @ high speed (or even higher speed)?

[lokeks]

Originally posted by Limsteel@Jan 12 2006, 10:51 AM

Inorder for the LED light to remain dry, rust-free and most importantly keeping it still during riding. stuff plastacine into the blank spaces.

plastacine will melt under heat, yar?

[Limsteel]

the heat generate by the LED I am using is very low... Since I installed it back in mid jan... nothing burning yet

 

I did accidentally touch Blu-Tag with my soldering Iron, it turned to powder and did not burn or catch fire... will try to burn some plasticine and see how.

 

Luxeon might generate more heat. Neo can advice?

[Guest nE0]

Originally posted by maxipower@Mar 3 2006, 03:39 AM

nEO,

 

How to ensure the fix-value resistor limit the correct current input into the LED with a fluctuating voltage supply by the alternator when the bike is cheonging @ high speed (or even higher speed)?

You can't, you calculate to give allowance for such fluctuations.

 

Sacrifice luminance for lifespan. You don't want your $20 Luxeon LED burning up in a week.

[Guest nE0]

Originally posted by Limsteel@Mar 3 2006, 01:00 PM

the heat generate by the LED I am using is very low... Since I installed it back in mid jan... nothing burning yet

 

I did accidentally touch Blu-Tag with my soldering Iron, it turned to powder and did not burn or catch fire... will try to burn some plasticine and see how.

 

Luxeon might generate more heat. Neo can advice?

Filament bulbs can run very high temperatures because its designed to run at such high temperatures anyways, high enough to vapourise the tungsten filament.

 

LEDs on the other hand, must operate within a strict temperature range, else they will just burn up. Luxeon LEDs are rated around 100,000 hours at ambeint 25degrees C, core temperature not exceeding 60degreesC. Max core temperature is around 90degreesC.

 

The 1watt Luxeon doesn't produce much heat, but it still requires a heatsink around

2cm diameter. The 3watt LED on the otherhand, requires a heatsink at least 3cm by 3cm square. Even then, its hot enough to scald fingers... I usually fix the heatsink to part of the bike's frame or metal structure to help dissapate heat.

[maxipower]

Originally posted by nE0@Mar 3 2006, 06:36 PM

You can't, you calculate to give allowance for such fluctuations.

 

Sacrifice luminance for lifespan. You don't want your $20 Luxeon LED burning up in a week.

Ahh... I see, u are trying to underdrive the Luxeon. OK that'll do

[maxipower]

Originally posted by nE0@Mar 3 2006, 06:40 PM

Filament bulbs can run very high temperatures because its designed to run at such high temperatures anyways, high enough to vapourise the tungsten filament.

 

LEDs on the other hand, must operate within a strict temperature range, else they will just burn up. Luxeon LEDs are rated around 100,000 hours at ambeint 25degrees C, core temperature not exceeding 60degreesC. Max core temperature is around 90degreesC.

 

The 1watt Luxeon doesn't produce much heat, but it still requires a heatsink around

2cm diameter. The 3watt LED on the otherhand, requires a heatsink at least 3cm by 3cm square. Even then, its hot enough to scald fingers... I usually fix the heatsink to part of the bike's frame or metal structure to help dissapate heat.

Filament bulb is so-call "hot-wire" (incandescent), light is created by "energy release thru ultra high temperature surface or "burning"". "hot-wire" produce light that contain much fuller range of light spectrum (other than R/B/G, also includes those invisible infra-red & UV spectrum). LED is not a "hot-wire" device, it only produces narrow color spectrum, i.e. flat white, flat red, flat blue...

 

Simplified explaination for easy understanding, "hot-wire" produces (or rather radiates) infra-red spectrum (i.e. heat energy creating source) together with the other RGB light spectrum, with the reflector "collimating" effect (focusing light energy to a comon direction), heat thereby is forward throwing.

 

LED which is solid-state semicon, the small little solid-state LED-die while producing light energy, heat energy is also created (part of the electrical conversion inefficency/losses, inevitable), so the manufacturer design the base of the LED-die to be the channel to conduct the unwanted heat away. That's why at the base of the LED-die needs heat-dissipating "heat-sink" to dissipate away this accumulating heat energy (or it'll cooked itself).

 

Luxeon LED or any other brand while producing light energy will create unavoidable/unwanted heat energy. Whether the heat produced is higher or lower depend on your driving power (more important is how much current driving it). Thus if u have better understanding on those electrical terms, u can design a electrical/electronic circuitry in such a way LED can be driven "cooler" but you will have to accept lesser light energy produced. Of course better LED like "Luxeon"/"CREE"/"NICHIA" etc will going to give you more light in the electrical conversion process than the other...

 

"100,000 hours life-span" for Luxeon LED, take it as a pinch of salt

[Guest nE0]

Sorry for the slow update, but the LEDs have arrived

[HelmetBOX1605198525]

Originally posted by KL85@Feb 13 2006, 10:28 AM

NEO LED ORDER LIST

 

1. Naz - 13 pcs Amber + 3 pcs Red ($16)

2. doktor des - 10 pcs Amber ($10)

3. MC28 24 pieces Amber ($24)

4. eSPy`7 - 10 pieces ($10

5.

6.

 

Total Amber LEDs: 60

 

sry pulled out

NEO LED ORDER LIST

 

1. Naz - 13 pcs Amber + 3 pcs Red ($16)

2. doktor des - 10 pcs Amber ($10)

3. MC28 24 pieces Amber ($24)

4. eSPy`7 - 10 pieces ($10

5. helmetbox- 12pcs($12)

6.

 

Total Amber LEDs: 60

[Guest nE0]

GUys, the amber LEDs turned out to be so deep amber, that its quite red actually, dunno if you guys still want it....

[Limsteel]

Use it for the brake light first... Reorder yellow or orange next time lor...

[MC28]

Originally posted by nE0@Mar 18 2006, 01:40 AM

GUys, the amber LEDs turned out to be so deep amber, that its quite red actually, dunno if you guys still want it....

Sorry nEo, withdrawing my and espy 7 orders...Thanks for the effort though

 

NEO LED ORDER LIST

 

1. Naz - 13 pcs Amber + 3 pcs Red ($16)

2. doktor des - 10 pcs Amber ($10)

3. helmetbox- 12pcs($12)

4.

5.

6.

[HelmetBOX1605198525]

me too..

sorry about that

[Guest nE0]

Its alright. I'll get them done for my bike, then maybe you guys can check it out, see if the color is alright.

[Naz]

Neo, if my signal light cover is yellow, will it still look reddish?

 

If it doesnt, I still need my orders.

 

Thanks.

[Guest nE0]

The color looks like the one in your "loudness" picture; Slightly orangey as compared to the brilliant red LEDs.

 

I think its best if you guys check it out for yourselves.

[Naz]

I'll go over to see it in a couple of weeks time can?

 

Gonna be tied up at work the whole of next week. Apologies.

[spenx75]

Hi guys, thanks for all the above tips... i've managed to make myself signal n tail lights. But after fitting them up, the signal lights dun blink at all, they remain lighted when the signal s/w is on... how do i rectify tat? Thanks!

[Guest 6.5rpm]

anyone diy led brake light? any pics to show.. im intrested in doing it oso..

[maxipower]

Might be getting some high intensity yellow superflux LED from my friend who is a supplier, to what he told me is S$1 each. If some guys here are interested maybe can get more from him...

[Limsteel]

Originally posted by spenx75@Mar 20 2006, 01:41 AM

Hi guys, thanks for all the above tips... i've managed to make myself signal n tail lights.  But after fitting them up, the signal lights dun blink at all, they remain lighted when the signal s/w is on... how do i rectify tat?  Thanks!

Think the current is too low to even activate the signal relay... you will need a DIY blinker circuit... I have uploaded some pic earlier you can try to DIY one...

 

I have a "Coarsely" DIY working blinking circuit using a 555IC, if you interested, you can have it at the component price... let me know I quote you a price... roughly guide you how to connect...

 

Sorry as I am very busy at the moment, I will not be able to do for you... New Born Baby, Part-time Studies, new House Reno, and work...

 

Also forgot to mention that someone did mention that the IC might not be able to last due to the fluctuation Voltage...

[spenx75]

I have a "Coarsely" DIY working blinking circuit using a 555IC, if you interested, you can have it at the component price... let me know I quote you a price... roughly guide you how to connect...

 

Sure bro, not too sure if i can handle tat with my limited elec knowledge... just let me know $$ n place to collect. Tks again!

[Limsteel]

Very simple... denpending on your relay. 2 pin relay usually for those bike with only a single indicator on the dash board. 3 pin relay for bike with 2 directional indicator on the dash.

 

Will be simpler if you have a voltage meter, remove the orginal relay then earth the common and use the red probe to test the connector for the supply.

 

Once found connect the + terminal to it, L terminal to the other point (para-connect if your bike require a 3pin relay) and finally the E terminal, earth it to the chasis.

 

Should work well after that! I really have no time to to fiddle, My SV relay and side stand relay is link... abit problem to implement...