Rectifier

[kennethy]

not really necessary to change both at the same time as they are really independent component.

 

most batteries will have memory effect regardless of using new or old rectifier.

 

think of it like your recifier as the charger for your mobile phone charger (in fact in all AC charger, there is a recifier insider), do you change a charger everytime you change a battery?

[flyingstar]

battery spoilt- e batt will bloated n it cant hold e voltage for long(self drain) or it cant charge up to e rated voltage

 

rectifier spoilt(fryed)- cant convert e ac current to dc current for charge,thus batt not charge

 

rectifier spoilt(overcharge)- high current, cause e batt to charge above e rated value, thus fry ur batt

 

magnetic coil spoilt- cant produce ac current for recharging

 

so.... depend on which component spoilt juz replace em, all faults can b tested using multimeter.... best is jus install a voltmeter to monitor

[Kohdx]

Anyone know where to get cheap magnetic coil? K & T got second hand one at $120 but i was hoping to find cheaper one

[redname]

Originally posted by Kohdx@Apr 1 2006, 08:37 PM

Anyone know where to get cheap magnetic coil? K & T got second hand one at $120 but i was hoping to find cheaper one

bring to planet motors & ask them whether the damage to ur coil can be repaired by soldering or not, shld be ard $80 for everyting

 

anyway, 120 is really cheap if the coil is working properly, normally tis kind of thing is at more than 250

[AhBenn]

Hi there, newbie here. Do we need to change the rectifier too if we are to purchase a new set of battery??? Thanks in advance for all the reply..

[Guest NPNT]

no

[s4vtec]

Originally posted by AhBenn@Apr 23 2006, 12:21 AM

Hi there, newbie here. Do we need to change the rectifier too if we are to purchase a new set of battery??? Thanks in advance for all the reply..

hi AhBenn

 

if im not wrong, you only change ur rectifier when its not charging ur batt or if the coil is burnt...

 

i changed once the rectifier, coil and batt together due to the burnt coil...

 

when ur coil is burnt, the current to ur rectifier will be higher and will kill it...

 

lau jiaos pls correct me if im wrong... thanks...

[AhBenn]

Thanks:cheeky:

[cheeese]

Hi guys

 

Need the expertise from the champion here.

 

1) Wat kind of tire is best for lots of travelling daily?

 

2) when does we need to change the battery n rect? i heard its annual change. Any suggestion when n wat brand should i get?

 

Thanks

[Virus]

Yo bro, I just change BT014. A lot of people said very good.

[whisk]

for tires, if u want long lasting ones can try Bridgestone BT-020. it will last u for a year to 2years. very good grip on wet weathers too.

 

As for the battery and rectifier, if nothing is failing dun need to change.

 

=)

[sportster77]

SF is electric started and lights are on all the time therefore it's hard to say when your battery need to be change. I would suggest checking and recharge your battery once a while to protect your battery/rectifier/charger.

[megayon]

True... Bridgestone BT-020 is very long lasting. But it's not a racing oriented tire. Very good for everday commuting. Nice design also.

[desmondekker]

from my experience, when the bike jerks when going up slope, or when u throttle for a short burst of power and it jerks, it's signal to change the rectifier. if u dun recognise the signal, then ya batt wun be charged and will be eventually flat, that's the 2nd signal.

 

earlier signs include bike dying when u clutch in to kick down gear.

[icewater]

Hi,

 

If you ask me ...

 

1) I recommend Bridgestone BT020 for daily commuting. Its more lasting as it is designed for touring (you can read that on their website). Good value for $$ i would say, should be able to last about 2 yrs

 

2) It will be easiler to monitor if you have a voltmeter. Connect the voltmeter to the terminals of the batt and it should give about 12V when you just put the switch to "ON". (This means your battery can store electricity, if you see around 11V or 10V means perhaps dying or you maybe you never ride for many days so batt discharge by itself...you should know better) Low throttle ard 3~4k rpm get about 13V, 4k and above about 14v. (This will show that your rectifier is still working, charging the batt when you throttle.) Well, another thing is to visually inspect your battery and rectifier. Any leak, or uneven surface on the battery burn marks on the wires is not normal.

 

Above is what i know for specs II...

[gssiong]

Originally posted by icewater@Jul 16 2006, 11:39 PM

Hi,

 

If you ask me ...

 

1) I recommend Bridgestone BT020 for daily commuting. Its more lasting as it is designed for touring (you can read that on their website). Good value for $$ i would say, should be able to last about 2 yrs

 

2) It will be easiler to monitor if you have a voltmeter. Connect the voltmeter to the terminals of the batt and it should give about 12V when you just put the switch to "ON". (This means your battery can store electricity, if you see around 11V or 10V means perhaps dying or you maybe you never ride for many days so batt discharge by itself...you should know better) Low throttle ard 3~4k rpm get about 13V, 4k and above about 14v. (This will show that your rectifier is still working, charging the batt when you throttle.) Well, another thing is to visually inspect your battery and rectifier. Any leak, or uneven surface on the battery burn marks on the wires is not normal.

 

Above is what i know for specs II...

agreed on both statement..

 

me using BT020 for about a years +..

the tyre still swee swee..

but don't think it provides good grips for slippery road surface..

 

[daryl_siah]

hi guys,

 

I have a problem with starting my VersionS lately, no cranking sound and cant push start.

 

So got my battery charged up at bike shop because previously battery measured only 9.. Before installing back to my bike, measured voltage is 12.5V after charging. Installed and manage to get cranking sounds but bike stil cant start. However this time managed to get it push start.

 

Ride awhile round my neighbourhood, suddenly engine cut off at traffic junction and unable to start again. So push it to nearby carpark and push start it again. Decided to measure the voltage of the bike while the engine is at idle, voltage is only 9.4V. Try to rev my throttle, battery voltage gradually increase to 10, rev abit more can get to over 13V. But after release throttle, voltage drop back to 9.5V.

 

Need ur guys precious advises as i do not know whether is my rectifier giving the problem or battery. Battery juz changed 2 months back. Rectifier changed 2 yrs ago.

[QX]

most likely is your rectifier bro.. better go check before your bike die half way...

[daryl_siah]

ya mostly likely is the rectifier defective unable to hold charge.

[nyquist2000]

Usually, is a good practise to change both the recifier and the battery altogether. Because a good battery can be damaged by a faulty recifier and vice versa. Any components will be subjected to wear and tear and there is limited life span. So by changing both at the same time, you will have less problem and you save lot of trouble having to check voltage and such or monitor them. A rule of thumb is as long as you find you got difficulty in starting up the bike, such that you need to push start, is time to change your batt and recifier. Good luck.

[daryl_siah]

thanks for ur advices.

 

But recently i juz changed my battery 2 months back. And dat time only nvr start my bike for 1 week then unable to start. Now the problem is after charged up my battery, stil cant start. Only can push start and found out when engine is idling, voltage of the battery still less than 12V. But rev more can charge up to 13V. Release throttle drop back to 9.5V.

 

I need to conclude the final component before i change anything.

[nyquist2000]

Did you change your recifier before you change the batt? As far as battery voltage is concerned, it should not drop below 11 VDC or more than 14 VDC at any point of time. From your mentioned, it seems your recifier is no longer able to hold charge for your batt.

 

Is usual for bike to have difficulty in starting up after parking there for 1 week or more. So do not let this confuse you. And wish your bike a speedy recovery.

[daryl_siah]

2months back, i had a similar case whereby my bike couldnt start. So was toll to bike shop. Only the battery had been replaced. The existing rectifier had been used for abt 2yrs plus.

 

Wat i understand is that when the engine is at idle, battery voltage should not drop below 12V and when engine rev up, battery should charge up.

 

Likewise for my case, voltage of the battery able to charge up to 13+V but upon releasing throttle, battery voltage drop to 9+V.

 

So my confusion is that should i change my battery as well? or only required to change my rectifier.

[nyquist2000]

I once had the problem similar to yours. My batt flat and I changed a new batt only to realise that it drained after less than 3 weeks. So I decided to replaced both the batt and the recifier, everything is ok after that. Perhaps you should try changing both? Lab sell reasonable price for both batt and recifier. I often keep them as spare in my store room. It come in handy.

[daryl_siah]

I once had the problem similar to yours. My batt flat and I changed a new batt only to realise that it drained after less than 3 weeks. So I decided to replaced both the batt and the recifier, everything is ok after that. Perhaps you should try changing both? Lab sell reasonable price for both batt and recifier. I often keep them as spare in my store room. It come in handy.

 

Alrite, i think i will get a new rectifier and try. Get it push start again and measure the battery voltage during engine idle and rev. If situation still same then will get the battery change as well.

 

Thanks for your valuable advises.