Woopa!! Cbr1000rr Riders

[mx_catfish]

I'm not very sure on this but my opinion thinking is 190 should have more grip then 180, when go into corner 190 should be more better and stable. But as Ghost say if you dont really go for corner more then is a waste of money.

 

Another thing is Shark mention about stable issue....this thing really confusion. Cause i understand Haya top speed is more than RR8 but for our bike oso can hit 299km/h den will it cause unstable too????

 

Correct me if im wrong on this.

 

Haya is bigger and heavier...so it should need more traction on the road. So that makes the 180s too small to give it enuf traction.

[mx_catfish]

I see if I can answer on this. Theoritically if u fit a 180 tyre, you will have a sharper tyre profile as compared to a rounder profile of a 190. So if both uses the same tyre pressure, 190 will always provide a more contact surface area than 180. 180 will have higher wear as well due to lesser surface contact area to take the friction.

 

However the advantages of the 180 provide a more agile handling of the bike due to sharper profile. During a S bend, the rider can change it direction faster without much effort. Smaller tyre will means a lighter rotation mass. It like the concept of a 520 conversion or a lighter rim. Faster pickup, lesser power to maintain the speed etc.

 

I won't really say 180 is more unstable than 190 at high speed. It can be compensate by lowering your tyre pressure. However too low will definately create unstableness. While too high, lesser contact surface area. It about finding the sweet spot.

 

Agreed . I'll change to 180s when I wear out this stock tire . Agility is what I need.

[DeusExMachina]

Michelin 2CT is a tyre that force you into corner one sia.... why not try Bridestone BT016, this tyre oso have dual conpound like 2CT. I heard the review is not bad...i try to feel on BT016 the side compound is very sticky.

 

I see if I can answer on this. Theoritically if u fit a 180 tyre, you will have a sharper tyre profile as compared to a rounder profile of a 190. So if both uses the same tyre pressure, 190 will always provide a more contact surface area than 180. 180 will have higher wear as well due to lesser surface contact area to take the friction.

 

However the advantages of the 180 provide a more agile handling of the bike due to sharper profile. During a S bend, the rider can change it direction faster without much effort. Smaller tyre will means a lighter rotation mass. It like the concept of a 520 conversion or a lighter rim. Faster pickup, lesser power to maintain the speed etc.

 

I won't really say 180 is more unstable than 190 at high speed. It can be compensate by lowering your tyre pressure. However too low will definately create unstableness. While too high, lesser contact surface area. It about finding the sweet spot.

 

 

A 190 offers more contact patch over a 180 upright.

 

But the width is not the determining factor when it comes to lean angle or flicking. 190 tyres come in 2 profiles... 190/50 and 190/55. The 180 comes only in the standard 180/55.

 

http://image.sportrider.com/f/8888109/tire-size-profile-zoom.jpg

 

It is this profile (and hence determines the curvature of the tyre) that affects your handling. For the most part, most of you when it comes to talking about 180 and 190, are talking about 180/55 vs 190/50.

 

That's why you'll say that the 190/50 is slower turning, and actually has LESS contact patch at max lean. Why slower turning and less contact patch at full lean? Because a 190/50 is a "flatter" tyre, so the curvature is not as optimal as a 180/55 at steep lean angles. You reach the edge of the rubber faster on a 190/50, where on a 180/55 you still have some allowance.

 

 

When you get a 190/55 (Either track tyres... or the 2CT, which comes in that size... I'm using a 190/55 for my FZ currently) you sort of get the best of both worlds. You get the contact patch of a 190, and the curvature of a 180, which means that at extreme lean your contact patch is still there.

The only minus point is the mass of the tyre.

 

Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs are the ones to look at if you want street compound 190/55. But do note that they will raise your ride height by about 10mm or so.

 

http://image.sportrider.com/f/8604371/146-0302-tire5-01-zoom.jpg

[mx_catfish]

A 190 offers more contact patch over a 180 upright.

 

But the width is not the determining factor when it comes to lean angle or flicking. 190 tyres come in 2 profiles... 190/50 and 190/55. The 180 comes only in the standard 180/55.

 

http://image.sportrider.com/f/8888109/tire-size-profile-zoom.jpg

 

It is this profile (and hence determines the curvature of the tyre) that affects your handling. For the most part, most of you when it comes to talking about 180 and 190, are talking about 180/55 vs 190/50.

 

That's why you'll say that the 190/50 is slower turning, and actually has LESS contact patch at max lean. Why slower turning and less contact patch at full lean? Because a 190/50 is a "flatter" tyre, so the curvature is not as optimal as a 180/55 at steep lean angles. You reach the edge of the rubber faster on a 190/50, where on a 180/55 you still have some allowance.

 

 

When you get a 190/55 (Either track tyres... or the 2CT, which comes in that size... I'm using a 190/55 for my FZ currently) you sort of get the best of both worlds. You get the contact patch of a 190, and the curvature of a 180, which means that at extreme lean your contact patch is still there.

The only minus point is the mass of the tyre.

 

Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs are the ones to look at if you want street compound 190/55. But do note that they will raise your ride height by about 10mm or so.

 

http://image.sportrider.com/f/8604371/146-0302-tire5-01-zoom.jpg

 

Cool stuff! Thanks!

[Tashi]

Agility is what I need.

 

Change to BST wheels then, your bike will be super agile.

[kinwei]

A 190 offers more contact patch over a 180 upright.

 

But the width is not the determining factor when it comes to lean angle or flicking. 190 tyres come in 2 profiles... 190/50 and 190/55. The 180 comes only in the standard 180/55.

 

http://image.sportrider.com/f/8888109/tire-size-profile-zoom.jpg

 

It is this profile (and hence determines the curvature of the tyre) that affects your handling. For the most part, most of you when it comes to talking about 180 and 190, are talking about 180/55 vs 190/50.

 

That's why you'll say that the 190/50 is slower turning, and actually has LESS contact patch at max lean. Why slower turning and less contact patch at full lean? Because a 190/50 is a "flatter" tyre, so the curvature is not as optimal as a 180/55 at steep lean angles. You reach the edge of the rubber faster on a 190/50, where on a 180/55 you still have some allowance.

 

 

When you get a 190/55 (Either track tyres... or the 2CT, which comes in that size... I'm using a 190/55 for my FZ currently) you sort of get the best of both worlds. You get the contact patch of a 190, and the curvature of a 180, which means that at extreme lean your contact patch is still there.

The only minus point is the mass of the tyre.

 

Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs are the ones to look at if you want street compound 190/55. But do note that they will raise your ride height by about 10mm or so.

 

http://image.sportrider.com/f/8604371/146-0302-tire5-01-zoom.jpg

 

Yup profile does play a part as well. Simply just too lazy to list out everything. hahaha

[DeusExMachina]

The Blade has a 6 inch rim, so go for the 190/55. The turn in is just about as fast as the 180/55 'cos of the similar profile. Track tyres like the Power Race, Metz, Corsas should have them available.

 

For street tyres, I only know of the Pilot Power 2CTs that have them at this size. And they're very good road tyres too. I swapped out my OEM tyres on day 1 when I got the new bike. They're excellent in corners.

[cheng0605]

Can anyone tell me where can i get brake switch for Brembo Master cyclinder? My

 

mech told me it costs $50 for a pressure switch... I tried my friend's and find that

 

must depress quite hard in order to activate the brake lights.... so i tink it is not

 

very safe...... Any other options??

 

 

 

i thought that the brake light could be adjusted???? no need to change the whole set right.....

[aaron19879]

hi dear all cbr 1000 riders, does anyone know the market machine price of a first hand cbr 1000rr? appreciate your help thx u....

[mx_catfish]

hi dear all cbr 1000 riders, does anyone know the market machine price of a first hand cbr 1000rr? appreciate your help thx u....

 

About 23.6k machine ... still 08 model.

 

Call Boon Siew, they should be able to give you a more accurate price.

[kinwei]

i thought that the brake light could be adjusted???? no need to change the whole set right.....

 

He meant the front brake one. The rear can be adjust, not the front.

[kinwei]

hi dear all cbr 1000 riders, does anyone know the market machine price of a first hand cbr 1000rr? appreciate your help thx u....

 

Go for the 08 model if possible. The 09 pricing is way too scarey. Damn the YENS. I believe there should be some new 08 lying around. There is one black and white at Bike Production. It should be ard 22k~23k machine. Get quote from bike shop is the best.

Edited February 25, 2009 by kinwei

[Yongster]

i thought that the brake light could be adjusted???? no need to change the whole set right.....

Not change the light... When u change to Brembo master cyclinder that doesn't cmes with brake switch, cannot use the OEM brake switch... must get additional one...... otherwise, there will be no light reflected when u brake......

[DenverDino]

How much is BT016 now? I'll get this in my next swap. Any recommended shops to change this?

 

I only know HKL lor...their tyre alway selling low price than others.

[DenverDino]

Go for the 08 model if possible. The 09 pricing is way too scarey. Damn the YENS. I believe there should be some new 08 lying around. There is one black and white at Bike Production. It should be ard 22k~23k machine. Get quote from bike shop is the best.

 

I heard from Loois the Respol Design RR09 machine price itself already cost $27k but dont know how true lor, I ask him this about 3week ago. Then in Boon Siew they told me RR09 normal spec OTR is abt $26k - 27k not include the ABS. Oh My God....!!!! Did anyone check the HRC design price ???

[DenverDino]

Not change the light... When u change to Brembo master cyclinder that doesn't cmes with brake switch, cannot use the OEM brake switch... must get additional one...... otherwise, there will be no light reflected when u brake......

 

This is normal...my friend using Brembo on his Suzuki K6 also facing the same problem like u. U must squeeze hard break then the tail light will be lighted.

[DenverDino]

The Blade has a 6 inch rim, so go for the 190/55. The turn in is just about as fast as the 180/55 'cos of the similar profile. Track tyres like the Power Race, Metz, Corsas should have them available.

 

For street tyres, I only know of the Pilot Power 2CTs that have them at this size. And they're very good road tyres too. I swapped out my OEM tyres on day 1 when I got the new bike. They're excellent in corners.

 

Powerful explain. Thanks for your info.

[kinwei]

Can anyone tell me where can i get brake switch for Brembo Master cyclinder? My

 

mech told me it costs $50 for a pressure switch... I tried my friend's and find that

 

must depress quite hard in order to activate the brake lights.... so i tink it is not

 

very safe...... Any other options??

 

Actually the cheap method is just to paste something on the lever side to add as the extra stack up height so that u will pressed on the switch faster and more.

[Yongster]

I heard from Loois the Respol Design RR09 machine price itself already cost $27k but dont know how true lor, I ask him this about 3week ago. Then in Boon Siew they told me RR09 normal spec OTR is abt $26k - 27k not include the ABS. Oh My God....!!!! Did anyone check the HRC design price ???

I saw the tri-color 09 at Labrador Park on Valentines Day.... The gold rims are a stunner......

[Yongster]

This is normal...my friend using Brembo on his Suzuki K6 also facing the same problem like u. U must squeeze hard break then the tail light will be lighted.

I just think not very safe.....If need to squeeze hard then can see brake light, either i fly forward or cars bang mi from behind not knowing that i'm braking.......

[Yongster]

Actually the cheap method is just to paste something on the lever side to add as the extra stack up height so that u will pressed on the switch faster and more.

U mean paste smething on the lever side when i already had the pressure switch or this can be done w/out the pressure switch??

[kinwei]

U mean paste smething on the lever side when i already had the pressure switch or this can be done w/out the pressure switch??

 

Haha, u are making me confused . Cause the switch is actually a limit switch. In order to activate it, you need to compress a push rod. Which in this case the lever is pushing the push rod when u compressed the lever. So now is the push rod is not pushed IN enuff to activate the brake light. One way is to provide the additional leverage by adding something to make the push rod pushed in further. Boleh?

[dafeimao85]

Haha, u are making me confused . Cause the switch is actually a limit switch. In order to activate it, you need to compress a push rod. Which in this case the lever is pushing the push rod when u compressed the lever. So now is the push rod is not pushed IN enuff to activate the brake light. One way is to provide the additional leverage by adding something to make the push rod pushed in further. Boleh?

 

pressure switch use's the brake fluid to activate it. so the method to activate it is only by braking harder... even by using something to keep the push rod into the lower level, i believe it still require same pressure to activate it... only different is that it takes shorter time to compress it...

 

in other word:

 

lets say u compress the brake to 50% n it takes 1sec for the brake to lit up... with ur mod, it take half a sec to lit up... but! u still require 50% of the braking power in order to activate the push rod...

 

so if sometime u tap brake or get for initial bite, compress for about 10%, nothing still show...

Edited February 25, 2009 by dafeimao85

[kinwei]

pressure switch use's the brake fluid to activate it. so the method to activate it is only by braking harder... even by using something to keep the push rod into the lower level, i believe it still require same pressure to activate it... only different is that it takes shorter time to compress it...

 

in other word:

 

lets say u compress the brake to 50% n it takes 1sec for the brake to lit up... with ur mod, it take half a sec to lit up... but! u still require 50% of the braking power in order to activate the push rod...

 

so if sometime u tap brake or get for initial bite, compress for about 10%, nothing still show...

 

Oh didn't know brembo uses this kinda of pressure switch. Never use aftermarket pump b4. The conventional pump uses the limit switches.. so I thought it the same. Don't worry, if it really uses pressure, I understand the concept. Then my way doesn't work lor.

[dafeimao85]

Oh didn't know brembo uses this kinda of pressure switch. Never use aftermarket pump b4. The conventional pump uses the limit switches.. so I thought it the same. Don't worry, if it really uses pressure, I understand the concept. Then my way doesn't work lor.

 

its actually a modification on the banjo nut, with a hole n piece of metal, so when u compress hard enough, it will force the metal to go down and touches the space between 2 piece of metals, in other words forming a closed circuit, n this will activate the brake light!