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Posted

TZM newbie here,could anyone help me out in these problems,

Problems:

 

1)everytime i drop from gear 2 to gear 1 i could feel the gear moving from inside the gear box from my gear shift leaver.

 

2)when is the time to change clutch plates or how do u know that it is wearing out

 

3)and when is the time to change your magnetic coil,cause my neutral and 2t light is bright but my high beam light no sign at all unless i rev,all this is during neutral

 

thankz

  • Replies 7
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Posted

1)This gear 2 to gear 1 'emptyness' is because you are surpassing the neutral zone.It will feel like your gear is not there or moving inside gear box like what you have said.Are there any awful noise during change?

Sometimes,you may find 'false' neutral in between other higher gears.Ask a credible mechanic to adjust biting point of your clutch.That would do the trick.

If your engine oil is fouled,changing it also helps to change it as the layer also helps your clutch and drive train be more crisp.

 

2)You will know,when your engine brake is weak.That is when you are in gear 1,2 or 3 where engine brake are felt strong,you accelerate till the said gears and just close throttle and feel the friction that cause the stoppage.If it is really weak,go change it or you can't move at all because the plates are smoothened till the teracotta or friction material is lost.Once,again changing engine oil may help due the the carbon that would interfere and cause slippage in old engine oils.

 

3)You have to bring your ride to a credible mechanic.He will test your spark from the ignition coil.The brighter the starter spark,your magneto coil is functioning proper due to the flywheel and stator comp. coming to contact.If not,not to scare you,it could be the CDI.Just pray it is not.Older bikes and ill- treated bikes problems are mostly CDI related.The Capacitative Discharge Ingnition(CDI) gives the rhythm that your carburetor follows to induce fuel to the block.

 

Cheers bro!:thumb:

RIDDEN

 

1) HONDA NSR 125RR FM365H (full ownership)

5th Sept 2006 - current

2) YAMAHA RXZ 135 FR2289E (full ownership)

1st Sept 2008 - 20th March 2009

3) PIAGGIO X9 180 FU6124E (full ownership)

11th May 2010 - current

Posted
1)This gear 2 to gear 1 'emptyness' is because you are surpassing the neutral zone.It will feel like your gear is not there or moving inside gear box like what you have said.Are there any awful noise during change?

Sometimes,you may find 'false' neutral in between other higher gears.Ask a credible mechanic to adjust biting point of your clutch.That would do the trick.

If your engine oil is fouled,changing it also helps to change it as the layer also helps your clutch and drive train be more crisp.

 

2)You will know,when your engine brake is weak.That is when you are in gear 1,2 or 3 where engine brake are felt strong,you accelerate till the said gears and just close throttle and feel the friction that cause the stoppage.If it is really weak,go change it or you can't move at all because the plates are smoothened till the teracotta or friction material is lost.Once,again changing engine oil may help due the the carbon that would interfere and cause slippage in old engine oils.

 

3)You have to bring your ride to a credible mechanic.He will test your spark from the ignition coil.The brighter the starter spark,your magneto coil is functioning proper due to the flywheel and stator comp. coming to contact.If not,not to scare you,it could be the CDI.Just pray it is not.Older bikes and ill- treated bikes problems are mostly CDI related.The Capacitative Discharge Ingnition(CDI) gives the rhythm that your carburetor follows to induce fuel to the block.

 

Cheers bro!:thumb:

 

 

 

Great info bro :thumb:

 

I also have some kinda problem with my bike... There is some kinda awful noise coming from my bike engine. Not sure from where exactly. It becomes louder when riding at 3 or 4 gear at low rpm of going up hill.... scared to throttle more later cable snap or something inside fails.. any idea what my bikes problem is?

 

1 more qns... what all does the mag coil does in the bike? does it involve electrical problems in the bike?

 

 

Thanks a million bro... :cheeky:

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m206/blade_trinity21/EditedRevo2.jpg
Posted

1)For the sound in engine problem,It could be that your gear selector rod does not engage at demand due to wound down clutch 'cush'.It could also be that the bearings at the crankshaft is wound down to the point where gear change is hard.Does your heat gauge go up to the middle?This would indicate accordingly if your piston is rubbing the barrel,due to shift or improper lubrication.

 

2)The magneto coil,otherwise known as your stator comp. is similar to a car alternator.They charge the battery while in motion.They also sustain the spark rhythm from the spark plug to ensure smoothe carburation.

RIDDEN

 

1) HONDA NSR 125RR FM365H (full ownership)

5th Sept 2006 - current

2) YAMAHA RXZ 135 FR2289E (full ownership)

1st Sept 2008 - 20th March 2009

3) PIAGGIO X9 180 FU6124E (full ownership)

11th May 2010 - current

Posted

The awful sound could also be wound down front sprocket with lots of chain slack

RIDDEN

 

1) HONDA NSR 125RR FM365H (full ownership)

5th Sept 2006 - current

2) YAMAHA RXZ 135 FR2289E (full ownership)

1st Sept 2008 - 20th March 2009

3) PIAGGIO X9 180 FU6124E (full ownership)

11th May 2010 - current

Posted
1)This gear 2 to gear 1 'emptyness' is because you are surpassing the neutral zone.It will feel like your gear is not there or moving inside gear box like what you have said.Are there any awful noise during change?

Sometimes,you may find 'false' neutral in between other higher gears.Ask a credible mechanic to adjust biting point of your clutch.That would do the trick.

If your engine oil is fouled,changing it also helps to change it as the layer also helps your clutch and drive train be more crisp.

 

2)You will know,when your engine brake is weak.That is when you are in gear 1,2 or 3 where engine brake are felt strong,you accelerate till the said gears and just close throttle and feel the friction that cause the stoppage.If it is really weak,go change it or you can't move at all because the plates are smoothened till the teracotta or friction material is lost.Once,again changing engine oil may help due the the carbon that would interfere and cause slippage in old engine oils.

 

3)You have to bring your ride to a credible mechanic.He will test your spark from the ignition coil.The brighter the starter spark,your magneto coil is functioning proper due to the flywheel and stator comp. coming to contact.If not,not to scare you,it could be the CDI.Just pray it is not.Older bikes and ill- treated bikes problems are mostly CDI related.The Capacitative Discharge Ingnition(CDI) gives the rhythm that your carburetor follows to induce fuel to the block.

 

Cheers bro!:thumb:

 

sorry to tompang ur thread, bro mages, wat about engine oil,been using gear oil but just changed to engine oil recently after my mech advice me that using gear oil will cause the clutch plate to spoil easily,

 

wat is more advisable? gear oil or engine oil?

The pain of discipline is nothing like the pain of disappointment
:thumb:
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

gear oil is gd for 2 stroke as their 2t inside the oil( but wat i haf heard)

but is too heavy n is meant for scooters.

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs379.ash2/65701_176002369095418_100000569694348_526694_4927685_n.jpg

Think you are the fastest? Think again.

  • 10 months later...
Posted

sorry to dig out an old thread, my sp's clutch cable just snapped. . .luckyli enter carpark liao. . .any advice what to do? call two truck to two to bike shop and replace the cable? or can buy new cable and fix myself? If yes, issit hard to do so?

 

Any advice?

 

 

Thanks in advance :)

  • 2008-2009: Honda NSR SP150
  • 2009-2010: Yamaha Spark T135
  • 2010-2014: Honda CB400 Hyper Vtec III
  • 2014: Kymco Xciting 400i

 

 

:cheers:

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