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Posted
Oh.

 

MotorSports now have Kenda tires for those who need to change tires.

 

I don't think they had it the last time.

 

Previously they only carried Dunlop and Shinko if I'm not wrong. That's why I changed to Metzeler from the stock Maxxis.

 

Didn't ask the price though. Could be expensive.

 

Metzeler FeelFree costs $170 (for both front and rear) from JR Ltd, which is just down the road from MS.

They don't install the tires though. But shouldn't be a problem buying then bring it to MS to change bah.

 

My next tire change, I'll not consider Kenda if it's 1) Expensive, and 2) Not as good performing as the pair of Metzeler.

 

I using the stock kenda tyres... I feel its sufficent.

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Posted
It also means that the BMW grip works better ona BMW cause the engine vibrate less than ours......lol

 

Isit? Always tot tt bmw has very heavy vibration due to the boxer engine?

Posted

Boxer engine should be less vibey.

 

Lower centre of gravity, and the fact that the cylinders lie horizontal, and each stroke cancels out each other.....

 

So should be very smooth and refined. Haha!!

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted

Lol. From red to brown.

 

Doesn't that mean the oil is doing its job?? Haha.

 

Try idemitsu?? Or OWS 800?? Haha.

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted (edited)

Kymco Downtown 300i (2011) Vs Ducati Monster 796 (2011)

 

Kymco Downtown 300i

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/49d3fdc8.jpg

 

VS

 

Ducat Monster 796

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/cd1a6782.jpg

 

 

Quote from

http://motorcycle.pikimal.com/2011-ducati-monster-796/vs/2011-kymco-downtown-300i

 

2011 KYMCO Downtown 300i completely dominated, out-performing 2011 Ducati Monster 796 in price and performance.

 

Wow! That is bloody fantastic! Can Chiat Ducati already!

 

@Doremi Don't play play ok! Downtown may be able to Chiat Hyper also muah ha ha ha!

Edited by parotae
Posted

Lol.

 

Wait long long. Haha.

 

So have you changed the engine oil?? Synthetic usually 5,000km interval, but by 4000km, the engine feels draggy. So yeah.

 

Plus 125cc, the engine is constantly in the 8-10,000 rev zone.

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted
Changing to new redline 5W50 again as left half a bottle. But another liter to finish up the remainder oil. Hmmmm... What shall be my next oil be? Agip?

 

Agip is pretty good. Used on my reddie.

 

Kymco Downtown 300i (2011) Vs Ducati Monster 796 (2011)

 

Kymco Downtown 300i

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/49d3fdc8.jpg

 

VS

 

Ducat Monster 796

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/cd1a6782.jpg

 

 

Quote from

http://motorcycle.pikimal.com/2011-ducati-monster-796/vs/2011-kymco-downtown-300i

 

2011 KYMCO Downtown 300i completely dominated, out-performing 2011 Ducati Monster 796 in price and performance.

 

Wow! That is bloody fantastic! Can Chiat Ducati already!

 

@Doremi Don't play play ok! Downtown may be able to Chiat Hyper also muah ha ha ha!

 

Lol. the reviewer must have hated the italian alot.

Posted

The review doesn't even look genuine. Haha.

 

Anyways left 4 more days till the KL Xpo ride!!

 

Can't wait!!

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted (edited)
Agip is pretty good. Used on my reddie.

 

Lol. the reviewer must have hated the italian alot.

 

Next up Agip then but.... as ex as most synthetic :p

 

Not even considered a review, crappy and gibberish but the end review is Ducati win. None the less good fun. Unless Downtown 3000i then completely, totally, absolutely cannot fight.

Edited by parotae
Posted
So have you changed the engine oil??

 

Plus air filter $35

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/42452625.jpg

 

My old air filter production date is newer than my new air filter. 2011 vs 2009 :p

Posted
Next up Agip then but.... as ex as most synthetic :p

 

Some cock up but the end review is Ducati win. None the less good fun.

 

If you are on budget, use better grade thicker engine oil on the month that you are going to do long trip. higher rpm for long distances eat engin oil. Thicker the engine oil, better protection as it breaks down slower. On months where you dont whack the bike or just few short rides up, you can go for semi sym.

 

Plus air filter $35

 

 

My old air filter production date is newer than my new air filter. 2011 vs 2009 :p

 

Probably going change my air filter too.

Posted

Mineral oil as expensive as synthetic??

 

At least Mineral oil comes from crude. Synthetic is nothing more than a blend of chemicals. Haha!!

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted

DownTown eats engine oil?? I only know Burgman eats engine oil. Haha.

 

So my OWS 5W40 not as good as say the previous W50 oil?? Bearing in mind I do high revs most of the time. Haha.

 

Between 7-9,500rpm....

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted

DownTown eats engine oil?? I only know Burgman eats engine oil. Haha.

 

So my OWS 5W40 not as good as say the previous W50 oil?? Bearing in mind I do high revs most of the time. Haha.

 

Between 7-9,500rpm....

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted
If you are on budget, use better grade thicker engine oil on the month that you are going to do long trip. higher rpm for long distances eat engin oil. Thicker the engine oil, better protection as it breaks down slower. On months where you dont whack the bike or just few short rides up, you can go for semi sym.

 

Probably going change my air filter too.

 

 

I saw Agip 60 oil very tempting. Wait for the next round when i follow you wack then change to 60 oil.

Top speed may drop due to drag no?

 

My owners manual suggest 5000km change air filter. Still looks very clean. May go for the Simota air filter mod. $70 :p serviceable but don't look good IMO. The blue paper filter element looks very thin. Saw a sample at Hodaka MotorWorld. The light passing through seems so thin.

Posted
I saw Agip 60 oil very tempting. Wait for the next round when i follow you wack then change to 60 oil.

Top speed may drop due to drag no?

 

My owners manual suggest 5000km change air filter. Still looks very clean. May go for the Simota air filter mod. $70 :p serviceable but don't look good IMO.

 

hmmmm......60........ Have you tried the 50? 60 is pretty heavy on the engine. Only those big v twin or higher performance bike take 60. Yep, for non performance bike, thicker engine oil affect the top speed. I used 50 on my pcx. Very hard to reach 110km. Max only 100km.

 

air filter mod? So become open pod system??

Posted

Guys, I have a question with regards to changing fuses. I am using heated gloves temperatures here are below 0 degrees some days so the most effective solution for me is heated inner gloves. they have been working ok for the last 2 weeks but today they stopped working. They come with a cable that I have connected to the battery, this cable then can be attached to the gloves using an extension and the cable has a little box that holds a fuse. All I can think of is that the fuse (3A) is gone.

Do you know if I can change a fuse whilst the cable is connected to the battery? Or will I blew it straight away? I want to avoid having to remove the under seat compartment as I can reach the fuse quite easily.

Hope you can help :)

 

 

Here is a link for the gloves so you guys can appreciate what we have to do when it get really cold, and also get a better idea of what I am talking about

http://www.keisapparel.co.uk/#product-89

Posted

You can change the fuse, as long as you disconnect the wires, and make sure you off the power first of course.

 

Well, as long as the wires aren't connected to the battery. Or as long as the battery isn't discharging.

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted
hmmmm......60........ Have you tried the 50? 60 is pretty heavy on the engine. Only those big v twin or higher performance bike take 60. Yep, for non performance bike, thicker engine oil affect the top speed. I used 50 on my pcx. Very hard to reach 110km. Max only 100km.

 

air filter mod? So become open pod system??

 

 

Is the open pod system better??

 

I see a lot of bikes doing such "mod". What would be the difference??

 

Personally, I can't feel the difference between 40 and 50 synthetic oil on the DT125i.

 

Top speed still 120kph. No diff. But since the last spark plug change, 0-60kph has improved by 1-2 secs lah. haha.

 

Don't think it's the effect of the oil though.

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted
You can change the fuse, as long as you disconnect the wires, and make sure you off the power first of course.

 

Well, as long as the wires aren't connected to the battery. Or as long as the battery isn't discharging.

 

Thanks Top, I will have no choice but to remove the underseat compartment

Posted (edited)

Wah lau, today just change oil then on my way home the engine oil light came on. I thought I didn't tighten the drain plug or the drain plug drop off and the engine no oil. Quickly on hazard light and move to the side to check. Have leh, drain plug still there. Thn check the light again. It's the oil service light. Kymco should have make it green or yellow. Freak me out man.

Anyone knows how to reset? Guess Ill go home and check the manual.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/42e53fb1.jpg

Edited by parotae
Posted
Wah lau, today just change oil then on my way home the engine oil light came on. I thought I didn't tighten the drain plug or the drain plug drop off and the engine no oil. Quickly on hazard light and move to the side to check. Have leh, drain plug still there. Thn check the light again. It's the oil service light. Kymco should have make it green or yellow. Freak me out man.

Anyone knows how to reset? Guess Ill go home and check the manual.

 

 

 

- Press the ADJ. button for two seconds, then displays the ODO, TRIP or empty mode.

 

- Press the ADJ. and MODE button simultaneously at the empty mode, then the indicator go out automatically.

 

Who writes this stuff??

"---- Still trying to lose weight ----"

 

Class 2B: 20 Oct 2011

Class 2A: 04 Jan 2013

Class 2: 01 Apr 2014

Class 3: 05 Mar 2012

Class 4: 24 Mar 2015

PPCDL: 06 Sept 2012

Posted
Wah lau, today just change oil then on my way home the engine oil light came on. I thought I didn't tighten the drain plug or the drain plug drop off and the engine no oil. Quickly on hazard light and move to the side to check. Have leh, drain plug still there. Thn check the light again. It's the oil service light. Kymco should have make it green or yellow. Freak me out man.

Anyone knows how to reset? Guess Ill go home and check the manual.

 

It was reseted by my mechanics last time they changed the oil for me. All I know is if you press the Adj button on the dashboard, it will change to TRIP A, then to TRIP B and after that it will show you how manyKkms you have done since your last oil change, so I guess the trick is to reset that counter, I ll have a look as well

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