SBF Kymco Downtown 125/200/300/350i Cafe 2013

[topgearalwaysrock]

Yes, 2 different model..

Kymco may have chose a short form to prevent confusion. Especially if you search xciting 300 over the Internet.

I think K-XCT stands for (K)ymco(-)(X)©i(T)ing

 

I am very XCITed about this scoot because of the parts that I maybe alble to transplant.

 

First up would be the 3port front caliper. No modification needed I guess since it uses the same front shock.

Secondly, the mirrors.

Third maybe the exhaust, extensive modification though to right swing beam/ suspension support. May have to cut some panels to fit.

Too bad the rear shock can't be use due to different layout.

Then the injector, fuel pump...etc

Lastly, the transmission.

 

Time and money is still an issue though ha ha

 

 

 

Why don't you just get the new XCT 300 then? Saves you all the trouble it seems.

 

In any case, I wonder how MotorSport will be pricing the XCT 300 and Xciting 400. What would be the price difference then?

 

The earliest that I heard from Herbert is that these models will be launched somewhere during the 2nd half of 2012, and stocks will probably arrive around sept, if all goes according to their plan.

[parotae]

Not practical to change to a similar model just for looks. The most important to me right now is performance and storage. Performance should be the same and storage is smaller on this. Further more cannot stretch leg. Xciting 400i make more sense although same small storage but more horses and can stretch leg IM:O

[parotae]

NOT Coming.

Edited January 10, 2013 by parotae

[synman]

Did you know that you can open the seat with the engine running?

I use to off the engine then open the seat and start again.

If i need to open the seat again i have to off the engine and start again, until i read in a forum that you can still open the seat with the engine running

 

I can tell you don't like to read manual.......lol

 

Actually I don't too, but was fascinated with so many functions at the keyhole area and also

wanted to know how the clock adjustment was to be done.

[parotae]

Ha ha yes i don't except for settings and maintainence.

Maybe I'll download a pdf file onto my phone for reference.

[synman]

@parotae

 

Any idea why the motoman article recommends only non-synthetic oil for the 1st 1500 miles?

 

Don't seem to find any lead on it.

[parotae]

3 more words on break- in:

NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

 

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least*

2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.*

After that use your favorite brand of oil.

 

Viewer Questions:

 

Q: If break- in happens so quickly, why do you recommend using petroleum break- in oil for 1500 miles ??

 

A: Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine,*

the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may*

not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely. I've had a few customers who switched to synthetic oil too soon, and the rings never sealed properly no matter how hard they rode. Taking a new engine apart to re - ring it is the last thing anyone wants to do, so I recommend a lot*

of mileage before switching to synthetic.*It's really a "better safe than sorry" situation.

 

Q: My bike comes with synthetic oil from the factory, what should I do ??

 

A: I recommend changing the*factory installed synthetic oil back to petroleum for the break-in period.

 

Q: What about the main and rod bearings, don't they break - in ??

 

A: Actually, the operation of plain bearings doesn't involve metal to metal contact !! The shiny spots on used*

bearings are caused from their contact with the crankshaft journals during start up after the engine has been sitting a while,*

and the excess oil has drained off. This is the main reason for not revving up the engine when it's first started.

 

The subject of plain bearings is one of the most mysterious aspects of engines, and will be covered in a future issue*

of Power News. In it, I'll reveal more information that fully explains the non-contact phenomenon.

 

Q: Why change the oil at 20 miles ?? Doesn't the oil pick up*

screen catch the*aluminum bits ???

 

A: It's true that the screen stops the big pieces, but many areas of the engine aren't within the oil filtration system. The oil that is splashed around will circulate metal debris to the lubricated bearing surfaces. For example, transmission gears and their ball bearings are*unprotected by the filtration system, and even the cam chain makes a perfect "conveyer belt" to*

bring metal debris up into the cylinder head !!

 

A close*examination of*a new engine will reveal lots of aluminum deposits on steel parts. This aluminum coats and tightens*

up the clearances of the parts, which creates a loss of power. Most of the time I spend "blueprinting"*

an engine is actually inspecting every part and "de-aluminizing" them !!

 

I prefer to remove the oil pan and clean the aluminum bits out of a new engine out that way, but a $20 oil change*

is an easy and inexpensive way to flush the initial particles that come loose in the first miles.

 

Q: What about motorcycle V.S. car oils ???

 

A: This is a topic all by itself !! It will be covered in a future issue of Power News.

 

Q: Will this break - in method cause my engine to wear out faster ???

 

A: No, in fact, a poor ring seal will allow an increase in the by products of combustion to contaminate the oil.*

Acid contamination and oil consumption are the 2 reliability problems which are the result of an*

"owner's manual" or "magazine tech article" style easy break-in.

 

By following the instructions on this page, you'll find that your oil is cleaner and the engine will rev quicker.*

Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across*the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.*

 

Reliability and Power are 100% connected !!

[parotae]

Very irritated by the twilight zone effect from 40km/ to 60km/h!

 

I was riding back home in the evening when the rain started to pour. The road are crowded filled with all sorts of driver, I tell you the rain brings out the worst of us all. There are the slow and careful who go below speed and brake at any slightest thang. Then there is the cool head, driving smoothly at a constant speed where they are too slow to follow and have to exceed safety limits to overtake. Then there is the simply bo chup tail gating cars on the extreme right lane and driving fast.

 

So the problem arise during all this raining scenario. Car slow down infront so I slow down too, waiting for opportunity to overtake on the right. Car so fast on the right tailgating each other even with heavy ain. Saw a gap, safe to overtake on right, car coming fast but can make it, open full throttle and thepower was like slow and lag. I thought to mysel and then remember the twilight zone effect and quicky gave a glance at the speedo and true enough the speed was in the 55km/h zone. Totally slow and retarded reaction. So I rode like this all the way, changing lane safely as I deem fit. Power wise above 60km/h no problems. When itlag I look at speed it is always in "the" zone.

 

Suspect Variator gearing issue. Need to do some experiment soon

[parotae]

Oh yes, read in other forum. Change to malossi multivar also the same "thang"

As in drop rpm by 500rpm and rise back again thingy.

[synman]

What twilight zone effect?

 

Maybe my riding style is too aggressive for me to notice.....

 

During raining, I just switch on my hazard light all the way if too many idiots on the road

and especially when I'm trying to keep a safe distance from the car in front but the other car behind me isn't keeping a safe distance. Also if I find the rain is too heavy.

 

Remember the person driving is enjoying his aircon and music(sometimes even his phone call), we are enjoying the music from the wind and the rain.

 

Coz when u signal, the DT's signal light will over ride the hazard light.

 

Why switch on hazard light.......? Coz I'm a hazard and I'm coming thru...............wahahahaha

 

Just joking on the last part!

 

So back to the 1st question, what is the twilight effect? Sorry if i miss out any post...

[parotae]

Ha ha ha you must put blinker lah!

 

It's an effect that make me feel like the the scooter is not responding or rather slow response when sudden wide open throttle between 40km/h to 60km/h. After 60km/h it's fine. The engine gives me the feeling of engine between lagging and not responding. I kind of felt lost and floating for a moment. Very funny.

 

I funny lah, people ride downtown no problem I so many funny problems. Feel like I'm an anal guy now

[topgearalwaysrock]

Does anyone know if I can fit a 45L rear box on the DT 125i? The current SH40i will soon be too small for my needs.

 

Will be carrying around a camera bag in a few weeks time each weekend.

 

If you can provide the cost for an aftermarket installation, that'll be great too!

 

Thx!

[shunoski]

Yes, there is the top box kit from Givi for DT300.

[topgearalwaysrock]

Yes, there is the top box kit from Givi for DT300.

 

 

How much will the installation and box cost in total? And where can I fix it up?

[parotae]

Sorry is in Chinese.

Comparison between Downtown/Nikita 300 with New K-XCT

Shorter wheelbase by 95mm/9.5cm

That would explain the lack of extra helmet space.

Length wise is still the same though

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/kymcocompare.jpg

Edited November 14, 2011 by parotae

[shunoski]

How much will the installation and box cost in total? And where can I fix it up?

 

I got mine online. You can search ebay for Kymco Downtown 300, and the range of accessories will come out, including the rack. It should be similar, just different base plate.

 

You can also get it from the Kymco dealer, I'm not sure what they carry, is it the Shad they installed for you?

 

I'm not sure, but maybe you can just swap the base plate to a Givi one try first.

[topgearalwaysrock]

Sorry is in Chinese.

Comparison between Downtown/Nikita 300 with New K-XCT

Shorter wheelbase by 95mm/9.5cm

That would explain the lack of extra helmet space.

Length wise is still the same though

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/kymcocompare.jpg

 

 

 

 

Haha. I didn't know the DT125i weighs the same as the DT300i.

 

I don't really like the looks of the new XCT-300. I prefer the Xciting 400. Haha.

[topgearalwaysrock]

I got mine online. You can search ebay for Kymco Downtown 300, and the range of accessories will come out, including the rack. It should be similar, just different base plate.

 

You can also get it from the Kymco dealer, I'm not sure what they carry, is it the Shad they installed for you?

 

I'm not sure, but maybe you can just swap the base plate to a Givi one try first.

 

 

 

Haha. I tried searching, but all that came out were exhaust systems and brake pads.

 

No top box/ racks.

 

Any other contacts?

[topgearalwaysrock]

Actually, if I'm not wrong, the one Motorsport gave, being the SH40i rear top box, doesn't actually have a rack. All it has is just a base plate.

 

If really don't have other cheaper deals, then I guess I'll have to get the SH48i from them. Gonna be really expensive.

[parotae]

Motorsport have the original aluminum base plate. Not cheap I think. I don't think they have the SH48 which I am using. Bought from ah boy $190. The looks is very nice but I cannot say so for the quality.

The rubber seal on the top portion keep coming off/ dropping out and need to push back with finger nails and that will scratch and dent the crap rubber strip seal. The next thing is when the scoot vibrate the box hinges will make noise like drum beat pomp pomp pomp ver nice ha ha ya right, damn irritating.

And mine don't come with a back rest

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/IMG_4291.png

Edited November 15, 2011 by parotae

[parotae]

Haha. I tried searching, but all that came out were exhaust systems and brake pads.

 

No top box/ racks.

 

Any other contacts?

 

How about this?

 

http://www.silverstonemotor.com/shad-support-for-luggage-top-case-kymco-125-300-dink-street-downtown-2009-2010,us,4,SHAD-TOPMASTER-DinkStreet-0911.cfm

 

http://www.helmetheadcycle.com/product/13090/givi-sr92m-kymco-09-11-downtown-300i-monolock-top-case-mounting-hardware

SR92M is the mounting plate itself. If you go to the installation manual in .pdf format you will see what I mean.

http://ebookbrowse.com/0-0-1-man-sr92m-pdf-d102614797

Edited November 15, 2011 by parotae

[topgearalwaysrock]

Motorsport have the original aluminum base plate. Not cheap I think. I don't think they have the SH48 which I am using. Bought from ah boy $190. The looks is very nice but I cannot say so for the quality.

The rubber seal on the top portion keep coming off/ dropping out and need to push back with finger nails and that will scratch and dent the crap rubber strip seal. The next thing is when the scoot vibrate the box hinges will make noise like drum beat pomp pomp pomp ver nice ha ha ya right, damn irritating.

And mine don't come with a back rest

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/IMG_4291.png

 

 

 

Meaning to say, the SH40i is still the best right? Haha.

 

Having no backrest for me ain't a problem, cos I don't think I'll want to pillion on the DT125i after trying it once. It simply doesn't have any power to go above 80kph. Haha. And the engine needs to rev at 7-8,000rpm to keep it going -> Gonna be really stressful, not only for the engine but also for me.

 

A simple solution that I've found: I've asked the guy whom I'll be ferrying his camera equipment to get a smaller bag. And he's found one. Haha.

 

The DT125i serves me alright as a point A to point B, ultra smooth and fast enough ride. But only for 1 person. Haha.

[parotae]

SH40 is too small in my opinion. Even I find the SH48 not big enough because of the unusual shape. It should have been a more boxy shape to put more things. But I bought for the design anyway, so long as can put 2 helmets. With the SH48 still find not enough space to put extra. The boxcar only hold 2 helmets and that's it, can't even put rain coat at the sides. Small items like gloves of course can lah if you are more for function MAYBE the Givi can have more space after putting 2 helmets?

[topgearalwaysrock]

SH40 is too small in my opinion. Even I find the SH48 not big enough because of the unusual shape. It should have been a more boxy shape to put more things. But I bought for the design anyway, so long as can put 2 helmets. With the SH48 still find not enough space to put extra. The boxcar only hold 2 helmets and that's it, can't even put rain coat at the sides. Small items like gloves of course can lah if you are more for function MAYBE the Givi can have more space after putting 2 helmets?

 

 

 

SH40 for me now is fine. It fits my backpack I carry to school nicely.

 

Since I'm the only rider, I usually store my helmet and rain-coat in the underseat storage.

 

I can stuff my jacket and backpack in the rear top box.

 

Should I get the SH48i, that'll be a luxury for me. Haha.

[parotae]

SH40 for me now is fine. It fits my backpack I carry to school nicely.

 

Since I'm the only rider, I usually store my helmet and rain-coat in the underseat storage.

 

I can stuff my jacket and backpack in the rear top box.

 

Should I get the SH48i, that'll be a luxury for me. Haha.

 

SH 40 can also put 2 3/4 helmet cup together.

When you have a pillion most of the time. You will find there's not enough space for helmet and shopping bags ha ha.