SBF Kymco Downtown 125/200/300/350i Cafe 2013

[topgearalwaysrock]

My old tire left it in the shop.

 

May be still there. Haha.

 

I thought you're using Metzeler for your rear tires??

 

Don't bother with getting another used set of Maxxis. Haha.

[synman]

Hi juanpauk, saw the article over at the kymco forum about the 2 different variator. I am hoping that the variator should be interchangeable but from your info about Malossi having 2 different model of variator for 2 different batches of Downtown/Superdink,Dinkstreet, i am doubtful about fixing the LEA7 on my DT but.......I got them anyway ha ha

 

I hope the belt doesn't hit the casing if i go top speed...not that i can over here at least.

 

Beside the 2 batches of DT having different transmission parts, the engine internal are modified as well. I read it over at the Taiwan forum. Will post pics if i manage to find the info. The difference apparently is a second oil strainer on the right hand side of the engine if i remember correctly.

 

As for fuel consumption, i am stuck at 25km/l constantly. So hopefully can see an improvement after the LEA7 installation....soon

My guess is...the performance will be worst, longer flat spot and slower acceleration(before the installation of sliding Dr pulley 14grams roller that is). As oppose to synman whose focus is on smoothness and performance, i am more for fuel economy...first.

 

If i really can't accept LEA7 variator performance, then i will gladly have the LGE5 on ha ha.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/b9ce9df3.jpg

 

You were around when I fixed the LEA7 on my bike!

[parotae]

You put shop. Sold already lah. Maxxis I find ok. Didn't tried speed corner but the usual corner I do every day to work seems to be pretty stable.

[parotae]

I need torque value for drain nut, oil strainer nut and oil filter cover.

Manual in kgf-m. I only know Nm.

 

Drain nut - 2.0-3.0kgf-m = 19.61-29.42Nm

Oil strainer nut - ?

Oil Filter cover - ?

[parotae]

You were around when I fixed the LEA7 on my bike!

 

Yes, but the one you use for testing is in a very bad shape/condition.

Anyway, I already know it's gonna be bad in performance but just want to confirm about the fuel consumption part. My daily average speed is 60km/h-80km/h so wanna lower this speed rpm. The LGE5 will have the proven >30km/l consumption if it's use around >105km/h. As at this speed the rpm between LEA7 and LGE5 is almost the same +- 200rpm(my estimation).

[topgearalwaysrock]

Ok.

 

Sorry for giving needless cause for worry.

 

I've checked my tire pressure.

 

Front was 24psi or 165kPa VS required of 29psi or 200kPa

Rear was 27psi or 185kPa VS required of 32psi or 220kPa.

 

No wonder the huge difference in fuel consumption.

 

Haiz.

 

Didn't expect such a low figure too, cos I usually check once every 2 weeks, and it hasn't been as low as today's.

[BaMBiNo]

Since when is the weather here in Singapore cold. Haha!

 

Oh well. Will monitor it again.

 

I'll check my tire pressure later.

 

I should be getting 30.5km/L. That's already a discount from the 35.5km/L since my previous factory fitted tires.

 

Ermm early mornings or when raining? As long as the ground is cool

[BaMBiNo]

Ok.

 

Sorry for giving needless cause for worry.

 

I've checked my tire pressure.

 

Front was 24psi or 165kPa VS required of 29psi or 200kPa

Rear was 27psi or 185kPa VS required of 32psi or 220kPa.

 

No wonder the huge difference in fuel consumption.

 

Haiz.

 

Didn't expect such a low figure too, cos I usually check once every 2 weeks, and it hasn't been as low as today's.

 

Hmm I better check mine..

[topgearalwaysrock]

Singapore weather still considered hot and humid even when it's raining or early morning.

 

Haha.

 

Tried running early in the morning before 6am? All the vapour condensing out from the air.... No joke man.

 

Same for our engines too. Will "huff and puff" when it's super humid.

[parotae]

Magnetic tip EO drain plug

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/fcf896bb.jpg

 

Found a piece of debri that look like gasket sealant inside the EO screen.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/2af34b18.jpg

 

Tightening the drain nut.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/1a8d4906.jpg

 

Filling up with EO goodness.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/e4376dea.jpg

[topgearalwaysrock]

Lol!

 

Own self change engine oil.

 

Good good!

 

First time using the "Red Line" brand engine oil??

[parotae]

Yes, First time using Redline and DT first synthetics @3200km.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/b21b2776.jpg

[parotae]

Don't feel any difference during riding for the first time. When i reach home the scooter seems to have slightly less noise and slightly less vibration. Felt smoother during idling, don't feel as rough with the mineral. Engine oil very easy to change, just that it is messy if you spill the oil and worst of all, your hands get very oily and irritating - need to wipe hands all the time ha ha.

 

With this hand cleaner, problems solved. Smell good too.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/9cdb5a9c.jpg

[topgearalwaysrock]

Haha. The oil cleaner smells good or your hands smell good after applying them?

 

So your DT300i mileage is 3200km only??

 

Or last change of oil was 3200km ago??

[parotae]

After washing my hands with the orange smelling hand cleaner, my hands smell like orange too ha ha. Yum yum.

 

I change my DT EO this afternoon. My current mileage is 3200km.

[paithorn]

Parotae shd lead a DIY service session for DT in future!

[parotae]

Yes, I should ha ha. Starting from tools to spare parts.

Actually can have a small group, share tools and stuff together. Like this huh, MS very little business Liao ha ha. Can change belt, braje pads and those common stuff. Steering cone, wheel bearing cannot DIY then go MS. So MS still got business ha ha.

[topgearalwaysrock]

Well yeah, if only I had the time.

 

Perhaps I would in the coming months, especially weekends! Haha.

 

Now, I'm packed even for weekends. Not much time to really hands on my bike.

[parotae]

The easy stuff and most common to change are like brake pads. I especially like DT cause it can be done with minimum effort. Of course everything are difficult at first, but once familiar, no problemo.

 

Easy stuff that you can DIY but must have passion and patience ha ha. If not it'll be a dread. Mind as well go shop, pay only, hands no need to be dirty. I rather spoil stuff myself then pay and let people spoil ha ha. Nobody take care of my things better than myself... most of the time.

 

Easy stuff that can DIY most of the time

 

1. Brake pads (Allen Keys, Grease)

2. Air Filter (Philip Screw Driver)

3. Brake Bleeding. (Philip Screw Driver, Size 8mm or 10mm spanner, funnel)

4. Engine Oil and Oil Filter and Oil Screen (Size 17mm, 24mm spanner)

5. Rear gear Oil (? spanner and long snout bottle that can hold at least 400ml)

6. Spark plug. This one for DT is a bit difficult but possible (because cannot see, must use feeling) The problem is if you screw in wrongly with force (cross thread) must change the cylinder head. (16mm long socket that can hold spark plug, ratchet)

7. Signal bulb. (hands)

8. Headlamp bulb. ( may have to remove front fairing?)(hands and feeling)

9. Under seat storage. (size 10mm socket with ratchet)

10. If you know how to remove under seat storage then you can change the battery and rear brake buld, signal bulb.

 

Some i've tried some i haven't.

[topgearalwaysrock]

Lol.

 

I think for most stuff, I'll give the job to MS lah. Haha!

[parotae]

Oh yes forgot the main topic.

 

The most important any biker must know is basic visual inspection.

Due to the nature of wear and tear, one cannot determine when a particular component will break down especially in between servicing.

 

Here i'll make a rough guide of things that will need attention once in a while. Stuff that cannot wait to check until the next servicing.

Those that can be check at next servicing or periodic maintenance can also be checked.

 

01. Tyre pressure

02. Engine Oil level

03. Any Oil leaking

04. All lighting

05. Tyre wear

06. Brake pad thickness

07. Brake Oil Level

08. Coolant level

09. Belting (for DT easy to dismantle cover and casing and check)

10. Clutch pads

11. Weak Starting/cranking (Battery may need replacement)

 

Do contribute to the list if you deem fit

Edited January 20, 2012 by parotae

[topgearalwaysrock]

Check seats for any cat claws tear?? Haha.

 

Lose throttle?? Brake Oil level?? Battery??

[parotae]

Ya, i always check when i see cat's hair on my seat.

 

Throttle loose? Can be adjusted yourself. Throttle don't just get loose. Before it become worst you are already at the shop.

 

Brake oil : Yes, the low level can indicate an almost worn pads. If there is no leak, visual checking of the pad thickness is enough because when the brake pads wear thinner the oil will go down. When you install new brake pads, oil are push back up to the full level.

If there is a leak which is very obvious when you check your brake pads. There will be a wet patch around the caliper, very contrasting.

 

Battery: If the cranking/starting is weak consistently, it's a sure sign of battery failure. Instinct will tell you to seek help.

[parotae]

Guys, Do remember to check for rust around the rim of the petrol cap.

 

I wanted to remove the rust by sanding it with sandpaper but didn't because the tiny sand particles will fall into the tank. It's to risky to just cover the hole and sanding it.

 

I apply a bit of grease around the rubber seal to see if it can stop the spread.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/892d6124.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/a7af6de0.jpg

[parotae]

GA-401

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/jeryll/Kymcoinjectorcleaner.jpg

 

Heard that this injector cleaner sell until no stock at MS

 

Feel like trying. Saw it once before, very small bottle.

 

Recommended to use for every 1000km-2000km. Wah siong, i think it's about $10 for a small bottle (30ml). Can pump ~5liters of petrol ha ha more economy but it's an injector cleaner anyway, not a fuel saving additive.

 

http://www.kymcorider.com/home/detail.asp?menuid=2&id=3721

 

http://www.kymcorider.com/home/detail.asp?menuid=2&id=2194 (In Chinese - with recommendation of adding for every 1000km - 2000km of use)

Edited January 20, 2012 by parotae