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Posted
hw about now.

 

just wanna know could u have done the lights without taking the whole speedo out?meaning like just unscrew the cover n then fit the lights?

http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/ll189/omarmukthar/2.jpg
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Posted

 

 

wah bro so long never go already la..but planning to return soon...yourself?

 

I planning to go next week..

was very busy for the last year..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
IE to sae a 5w 50 is better than a 10w 40 la for our blade.. i switched from 5w 50 to 10w 40 last time thinking that it is thicker thus better protection for our engine.. looks like im wrong.. nxt EO change will switch back to 5w50 liao... i still love maxima.. :p

 

the coding for engine in 5W40, 10W40, 20W50 etc. hav its meaning..

W means for winter climate usage..

the 1st number b4 W means the freezing temp for the engine oil..

the last 2 digits means its visocity at certain temp(forget the standard temp). 50 means thicker.. harder to flow.. 40 means thinner..

so wat u say that 10w40 is thicker is not rite..

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
the coding for engine in 5W40, 10W40, 20W50 etc. hav its meaning..

W means for winter climate usage..

the 1st number b4 W means the freezing temp for the engine oil..

the last 2 digits means its visocity at certain temp(forget the standard temp). 50 means thicker.. harder to flow.. 40 means thinner..

so wat u say that 10w40 is thicker is not rite..

:)

 

Wow..Got the whole idea right now..So which means the 5 before the W will not happen in singapore right?And at a certain point of degree the EO will not be so sticky which will flow better..

Posted

1. Kelvin (Vin82)_____________/ R Model_____/ North________/ 90274767

2. Ivan (Gladiator)___________/ L Model_____/ North________/ 96547064

3. vincent (lsoul)____________/ L Model_____/ North_________/ 91086745

4. brbrd (Bernard)___________/ R Model_____/ North_________/ 81941137

5. kianleong________________/ R Model_____/ North east____/ 90042666 (changed to VTR)

6. yazid___________________/ R Model_____/ East__________/ 98264408

7. Ninjalite/Yee Kiat_________/ Hurricane____/ West_________/ 82880070

8. 745 _______________/ R Model_____/ West_________/ 93665392

9. Lawrence (lGuyl)__________/ R Model_____/ West_________/ 97995965

10. wongwz84 (sebastian)_____/ L Model_____/ West__________/ 96354420

11. seastorm ________________/____________/central_______/ 96467809

12. Addictive (Yaonan)_____/ _____ / _________ / _________

13. fx110___________________/ Hurricane K Model /West (Sg Kadut) / 98816976

14. botak (jiaxing85)____________/R Model_______/West________/96548421

15. DreamMaker87___________/Rmodel______/Bukit Merah______/92274024 = )

16. Eric (mitsui_kobe)________/R model______/North__________/82882408

17. han ( han7 )____________/R model_______/Bedok Res_______ 91481143

18. kenny (SlowRider)_________/L model______/bt batok_______/ 91918455

19. bboytrez_________________/L Model______/cck___________/ 98586294

20. Bernie (L0NeLYKiD)_________/L Model______/Tampines______/ 90226061

21. daniels (jackdaniels)______/R Model_______/East_____/91706028

22. fdsa ( david )___________/R Model_______/East______/96729343

23. vlRuS(Hao)____________/N Model_______/EAST________/92236189

24. vinod (condordragon)_________/R Model_____/srg_______/91873004

25. crowbar84_______________/R Model____/WEST(Bt Batok)_____/90229060

26. alex/ buuberry____________/L Model_____/North (wdls)____/81049021

27. thfc74 (Hakim)____________/R Model_____/EAST (Tamp/PaRis)/97843074

28. Jiahao (Supera)___________/R Model_____/ Queenstown / 90085874

29. GrEgoRy___________/L Model_____/Cck Ave 4________/ 81695082

30. Alex (alxfoo)_________/R Model____/

31. Keith (Stealthwolf)_________/L Model____/Yishun________/91857466

32. MinMin (MiN_MiN)__________/R Model_____/CENTRAL________/

33. Jeffrey ( [ M ] a m b o )_____/N Model_____/North_____/

34. Alvin ( skndlz ) ______/R Model ______/North_______/

 

*NEW UPDATED CONTACT LIST. IF I LEFT YOUR NAME OUT, PLZ UPDATE IN.. MANY THANKS!

CAA: 03/03/09

Posted
Now that u've got the hardware done , upgrade ur CDI to the HRC racing CDI to rev up to 16k rpm.

Forgot to mention mod ur camshaft for earlier opening of ur valve and later closing of valve for high RPM power

 

*note : Revving up to 16k rpm might cause ur engine components like piston and con rod etc to break since ur on 444

cc.

 

the problem of going up to 16k RPM is not the piston or conrods. even if these 2 break u just change piston n rod. the problem is the valve stem and block head. u can get forged metal piston or conrods but not valve stems. and if the valve stem snaps (there are 16 of them), your header is gone and when the stem drops into the engine, just imagine of it as a blender. that was very well what happened to my bike years ago. and the problem with the header is..... it's no longer available!

 

so again, NEVER redline the bike. u could get fast times at track just by going faster sideways, not upright. and if want higher topend by all means change to big bore kit but you do not need to redline. the maximum torque kicks in well before 16k RPM anyway. using higher RPM is just to ensure that the bike stays in its powerband range when you close the throttle for a turn, not for you to get more speed.

 

:cheers:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/cbr17/kiss.jpg
Posted
Actually think back also if wanna do so hardcore tuning to a 400cc i think better off investing in a RVF. Afterall rvf got higher potential compared to blade. In my opnion that is .. hmm

 

Its got a more revised track based design from the start for performance.

 

RVF performance is nowhere near CBR400. its main strength is in the cornering; it can take a turn like a 250 coz the suspension and chassis is damn good.

 

other than that it's only about pick up and gear ratio (again good only if you know how to use this, and CBR does have close gear ratio set too but rare). halfway down the 2nd straight at PG it will get killed by the CBR400.

 

so in other words the RVF is fast if you can ride it like a 250. late braking (minimal fishtail due to the close ratio), high entry corner speed, high mid corner speed, early corner exit, but without the topend of a 250.

 

if u want to look for something better than CBR400, then it'd be NSR250. great handling, great pick up, great top end; all rounder. that's why i now ride the MC21 (for 2A category) coz i felt that i've reached my sideways limits with the NC29.

 

sorry to argue bout your 2 posts bro, nothing personal, just wana share.

 

:cheers:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/cbr17/kiss.jpg
Posted (edited)
the problem of going up to 16k RPM is not the piston or conrods. even if these 2 break u just change piston n rod. the problem is the valve stem and block head. u can get forged metal piston or conrods but not valve stems. and if the valve stem snaps (there are 16 of them), your header is gone and when the stem drops into the engine, just imagine of it as a blender. that was very well what happened to my bike years ago. and the problem with the header is..... it's no longer available!

 

so again, NEVER redline the bike. u could get fast times at track just by going faster sideways, not upright. and if want higher topend by all means change to big bore kit but you do not need to redline. the maximum torque kicks in well before 16k RPM anyway. using higher RPM is just to ensure that the bike stays in its powerband range when you close the throttle for a turn, not for you to get more speed.

 

:cheers:

 

Haha true there.. actually more things are gonna break once ppl start playing around with engine parts afterall its not designed that way.

 

RVF performance is nowhere near CBR400. its main strength is in the cornering; it can take a turn like a 250 coz the suspension and chassis is damn good.

 

other than that it's only about pick up and gear ratio (again good only if you know how to use this, and CBR does have close gear ratio set too but rare). halfway down the 2nd straight at PG it will get killed by the CBR400.

 

so in other words the RVF is fast if you can ride it like a 250. late braking (minimal fishtail due to the close ratio), high entry corner speed, high mid corner speed, early corner exit, but without the topend of a 250.

 

if u want to look for something better than CBR400, then it'd be NSR250. great handling, great pick up, great top end; all rounder. that's why i now ride the MC21 (for 2A category) coz i felt that i've reached my sideways limits with the NC29.

 

sorry to argue bout your 2 posts bro, nothing personal, just wana share.

 

:cheers:

 

CbRs probably better at top speed kinda fight due to the inline engine and the slightly wider gear ratios compared to rvf. But like u said wanna go faster gotta do it side ways not straight up lol. Probably the time we spent side ways is more than straight up also. In the track that is. Actually wat i trying to point out is that rvf might be a more fun bike to ride in the track compared to blades :cheeky:

 

Anyway ask u ah.. issit Blade's gear ratio very close already? those gear 3 to 6 seems like ultra close gear ratio to me already lol.. any closer is like nv change gear liao.

 

But yeah.. if talking abt even more fun definately a MC21 , lightweight , powerful , track orientated design. But i dun quite like the idea of riding that sensitive machine on the street though lol. its just personal :p hahah

 

Starting to see more ppl posting here lol. Good sign

Edited by AkalaPovic

The RR on my Fireblade represents "Race Replica"

Posted
the coding for engine in 5W40, 10W40, 20W50 etc. hav its meaning..

W means for winter climate usage..

the 1st number b4 W means the freezing temp for the engine oil..

the last 2 digits means its visocity at certain temp(forget the standard temp). 50 means thicker.. harder to flow.. 40 means thinner..

so wat u say that 10w40 is thicker is not rite..

:)

 

Wonder if i means we can ignore the 5w10w and 15w infront? lol coz we'll nv hit those temperature in singapore i guess..

The RR on my Fireblade represents "Race Replica"

Posted
ya.. i also plan to stick to my phantom... different people got different thinking la.. lol.. u still young still tiong.. i love the way my blade is at the moment.. :) enough said abt this topic liao le.. tried my friend's R1 just now in camp.. 1st gear no feeling de leh.. macham no strength.. think his bike never do up la..

 

Wah sit R1 also no strength ah? u too heavy issit :p kidding:angel:

The RR on my Fireblade represents "Race Replica"

Posted
mitsui bike more power than r1. haha. kidding bro. :angel:

 

Hmm i think that makes sense lol.. coz i also nv hear him complain 1st gear no strength on his blade lol..

The RR on my Fireblade represents "Race Replica"

Posted
Actually wat i trying to point out is that rvf might be a more fun bike to ride in the track compared to blades :cheeky:

 

Anyway ask u ah.. issit Blade's gear ratio very close already? those gear 3 to 6 seems like ultra close gear ratio to me already lol.. any closer is like nv change gear liao.

 

But yeah.. if talking abt even more fun definately a MC21 , lightweight , powerful , track orientated design. But i dun quite like the idea of riding that sensitive machine on the street though lol. its just personal :p hahah

 

Starting to see more ppl posting here lol. Good sign

 

u're right in that rvf may be a bit more fun as its easier to ride given its handling, but not easy to maximise its full potential. meaning easier to get faster in track with cbr given that it already has a faster top end.

 

for NSR250, if you go with a stock standard PGM4 its quite fun too even for the road. 2 strokers are not really too sensitive as long as they are in stock condition. but if u start to mod that's where the expenses spiral up coz it'd also mean more maintenance.

 

gear ratio of stock cbr400 is not close, u'd feel the diff at 12k-14k RPM (about 1k before redline). u've got to ride it at high rev to feel the diff, but not at redline. the power does not really come in till ard 10RPM. the close ratio i was mentioning was HRC stuff and its really rare.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/cbr17/kiss.jpg
Posted
Wow..Got the whole idea right now..So which means the 5 before the W will not happen in singapore right?And at a certain point of degree the EO will not be so sticky which will flow better..

 

the 1st digit is oso a coding.. 0 means the freezing temp is abt -10 degrees, 5 abt 0 degree and so on..

the lab will heat the engine oil to certain temp. then start test for its resistant to flow(visocity).

 

 

Wonder if i means we can ignore the 5w10w and 15w infront? lol coz we'll nv hit those temperature in singapore i guess..

 

we need these front number to tell us whether the engine oil is multigraded or not. the exact number dun concern us in sillypore where natural snow will not occur.

so if u see the bottle state SAE 40, means is not multigraded. onli contain that grade.

winter use engine oil is formed by mixing diff SAE of oil. juz like u learn abt adding salt to ice will decrease the freezing temp of water.

:)

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
u're right in that rvf may be a bit more fun as its easier to ride given its handling, but not easy to maximise its full potential. meaning easier to get faster in track with cbr given that it already has a faster top end.

 

for NSR250, if you go with a stock standard PGM4 its quite fun too even for the road. 2 strokers are not really too sensitive as long as they are in stock condition. but if u start to mod that's where the expenses spiral up coz it'd also mean more maintenance.

 

gear ratio of stock cbr400 is not close, u'd feel the diff at 12k-14k RPM (about 1k before redline). u've got to ride it at high rev to feel the diff, but not at redline. the power does not really come in till ard 10RPM. the close ratio i was mentioning was HRC stuff and its really rare.

 

Oh.. okay.. anyway how u all define close ratio ah? so far my understanding which might be wrong is that close ratio gear box is those gear box where every gear shift barely have much RPM drop like those in sport bikes. Ie : 3rd to 4th gear only drop 500 to 700rpm , 4th to 5th also drop 500 to 700rpm then 5th to 6th also only drop 500rpm that kinda gear box.Which is meant more for race to have a easier time finding the correct gear for ur corners.

 

Whereas a normal ratio gear box are those like for cars where every gear is far apart feeling.. 3rd to 4th might drop alot of rpm and so on.

I think rvf have a "lighter" sprocket ratio feeling whereby if u have a rvf and blade drag till the same RPM maybe 14k rvf will hit the speed of 210 and the blade will be like 230 kinda effect. Since the sprocket ratio is lighter the acceleration is also improved but the top speed is sacrificed a bit.

 

 

the 1st digit is oso a coding.. 0 means the freezing temp is abt -10 degrees, 5 abt 0 degree and so on..

the lab will heat the engine oil to certain temp. then start test for its resistant to flow(visocity).

 

 

 

 

we need these front number to tell us whether the engine oil is multigraded or not. the exact number dun concern us in sillypore where natural snow will not occur.

so if u see the bottle state SAE 40, means is not multigraded. onli contain that grade.

winter use engine oil is formed by mixing diff SAE of oil. juz like u learn abt adding salt to ice will decrease the freezing temp of water.

:)

 

**** man still damn lost lol.. guess i'll just use the usual 10w40 lol

The RR on my Fireblade represents "Race Replica"

Posted
Oh.. okay.. anyway how u all define close ratio ah? so far my understanding which might be wrong is that close ratio gear box is those gear box where every gear shift barely have much RPM drop like those in sport bikes. Ie : 3rd to 4th gear only drop 500 to 700rpm , 4th to 5th also drop 500 to 700rpm then 5th to 6th also only drop 500rpm that kinda gear box.Which is meant more for race to have a easier time finding the correct gear for ur corners.

 

Whereas a normal ratio gear box are those like for cars where every gear is far apart feeling.. 3rd to 4th might drop alot of rpm and so on.

I think rvf have a "lighter" sprocket ratio feeling whereby if u have a rvf and blade drag till the same RPM maybe 14k rvf will hit the speed of 210 and the blade will be like 230 kinda effect. Since the sprocket ratio is lighter the acceleration is also improved but the top speed is sacrificed a bit.

 

 

 

 

 

**** man still damn lost lol.. guess i'll just use the usual 10w40 lol

 

maybe my explanation isn't that good..

:cheeky:

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/3549/penguin.jpg

2001~04---> NSR-150SP(FT43**H), RXK(FD41**)

2004~06--> CBR-400RRR(FN31**R), RXK

2006~07 ---> CBR929RRY(FS35**C), RXK

2007~10 --> CBR929RRY, Wave125R(FY74**P)

2010~Present -> CBR1000RR10(FBE56**T), Wave125R

Posted
Oh.. okay.. anyway how u all define close ratio ah? so far my understanding which might be wrong is that close ratio gear box is those gear box where every gear shift barely have much RPM drop like those in sport bikes. Ie : 3rd to 4th gear only drop 500 to 700rpm , 4th to 5th also drop 500 to 700rpm then 5th to 6th also only drop 500rpm that kinda gear box.Which is meant more for race to have a easier time finding the correct gear for ur corners.

 

what you explained about close ratio is about right, but u'd have to factor in powerband as well. if u're below 10k RPM and not in powerband then u wun feel any diff coz its a slow climb up.

 

close ratio may affect top end a little. this can be varied with sprocket/ jet (basically tuning) settings. but you cant have best of both technically, coz that's where rider input comes in; to try maintain the fastest speed at all times.

 

:cheers:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/cbr17/kiss.jpg
Posted
what you explained about close ratio is about right, but u'd have to factor in powerband as well. if u're below 10k RPM and not in powerband then u wun feel any diff coz its a slow climb up.

 

close ratio may affect top end a little. this can be varied with sprocket/ jet (basically tuning) settings. but you cant have best of both technically, coz that's where rider input comes in; to try maintain the fastest speed at all times.

 

:cheers:

 

Haha okay.. at least now i know my understanding is not wrong.. i think for inline4 the power band is slightly higher in the rpm range compared to V4 engines. From wat i heard they have better torque at lower rpms though. Explains their acceleration being quicker which give them advantage in tracks when coming out of corners.

The RR on my Fireblade represents "Race Replica"

Posted
just wanna know could u have done the lights without taking the whole speedo out?meaning like just unscrew the cover n then fit the lights?

 

a guy in the forum was selling, he did it for me, just its kinda exp, after awhile i got bored with it, cos its only nice to see at night-time. he took out the whole speedo.

Posted

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Posted (edited)
the problem of going up to 16k RPM is not the piston or conrods. even if these 2 break u just change piston n rod. the problem is the valve stem and block head. u can get forged metal piston or conrods but not valve stems. and if the valve stem snaps (there are 16 of them), your header is gone and when the stem drops into the engine, just imagine of it as a blender. that was very well what happened to my bike years ago. and the problem with the header is..... it's no longer available!

 

so again, NEVER redline the bike. u could get fast times at track just by going faster sideways, not upright. and if want higher topend by all means change to big bore kit but you do not need to redline. the maximum torque kicks in well before 16k RPM anyway. using higher RPM is just to ensure that the bike stays in its powerband range when you close the throttle for a turn, not for you to get more speed.

 

:cheers:

 

yea..tat's y im doing up my handling first.. coz b4 i service my fork, kup corner also dare not go fast and not shiok.. im considering whether wanna add damper first b4 installing jet kits to my blade.. now anytime can half backside out liao.. lol

 

Haha true there.. actually more things are gonna break once ppl start playing around with engine parts afterall its not designed that way.

 

 

 

CbRs probably better at top speed kinda fight due to the inline engine and the slightly wider gear ratios compared to rvf. But like u said wanna go faster gotta do it side ways not straight up lol. Probably the time we spent side ways is more than straight up also. In the track that is. Actually wat i trying to point out is that rvf might be a more fun bike to ride in the track compared to blades :cheeky:

 

Anyway ask u ah.. issit Blade's gear ratio very close already? those gear 3 to 6 seems like ultra close gear ratio to me already lol.. any closer is like nv change gear liao.

 

But yeah.. if talking abt even more fun definately a MC21 , lightweight , powerful , track orientated design. But i dun quite like the idea of riding that sensitive machine on the street though lol. its just personal :p hahah

 

Starting to see more ppl posting here lol. Good sign

 

ya..tat is why i never wanted to touch the engine part in the first place.. including installing of jet kits.. jet kits close 1 eye still can install la.. but make to 444cc.. tat is a real no-go for me.. lol.. jus open throttle see ur bike go zoom anyone also can do it.. im more interested in cornerings and handling.. but sobz.. got wife..must be more careful cannot play on sillypore road also.. only when i sometimes bankai den will play.. lol

 

Wah sit R1 also no strength ah? u too heavy issit :p kidding:angel:

 

yah.. i also think i very heavy now compared to last time.. now hitting 68kg leh.. back then in army still got a healthy range of 62 to 65kg..

 

the 1st digit is oso a coding.. 0 means the freezing temp is abt -10 degrees, 5 abt 0 degree and so on..

the lab will heat the engine oil to certain temp. then start test for its resistant to flow(visocity).

 

 

 

 

we need these front number to tell us whether the engine oil is multigraded or not. the exact number dun concern us in sillypore where natural snow will not occur.

so if u see the bottle state SAE 40, means is not multigraded. onli contain that grade.

winter use engine oil is formed by mixing diff SAE of oil. juz like u learn abt adding salt to ice will decrease the freezing temp of water.

:)

 

so in other words, 10w 40 is actually thinner than 5w50 la..

 

 

see whether got more blades going or not den im on.. if not will reserve it for family day..lol

Edited by mitsui_kobe

nsr 150 sp(FT1969Y)-feb'07 to may'08, CBR 400(FQ5720L)-may'08 to july'09, TA150(FT2661I)-mar'09 to jun'09, Wave110(FT7718R)- Jun'09 - Jan'10, TA200(FX2012E)- Jan'10-May'11, VTR SP1(FS4028Z) - Sept'09 - Jan'12, ZG1400 (FBE5831K)- Jan'12 to Oct'14, Suzuki Hayabusa - Oct'14 to ???

 

情深的一å¥... NC29 FIREBLADE...

Posted
a guy in the forum was selling, he did it for me, just its kinda exp, after awhile i got bored with it, cos its only nice to see at night-time. he took out the whole speedo.

 

Total cost is at?

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