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Posted

Last week, while i was servicing my calipers, i tried to take out the bleed screw for both the ftont and back calipers. Probably because of the age of the parts, the screws probably weakened and broke off. Half is still inside the caliper. I tried using extractors, but the extractors too broke off. So i'm looking for solutions. Anyone know where to re-thread the calipers? And when i re-thread will i be able to use back the same size of screw? I'm not looking into replacing the calipers coz it's not very friendly to the pocket :)

 

 

All input appreciated ;)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/h4hahak1m/DSC01047-1.jpg

 

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Posted
Last week, while i was servicing my calipers, i tried to take out the bleed screw for both the ftont and back calipers. Probably because of the age of the parts, the screws probably weakened and broke off. Half is still inside the caliper. I tried using extractors, but the extractors too broke off. So i'm looking for solutions. Anyone know where to re-thread the calipers? And when i re-thread will i be able to use back the same size of screw? I'm not looking into replacing the calipers coz it's not very friendly to the pocket :)

 

 

All input appreciated ;)

 

The diameter of the blled screw is about m5 or 6 or so, if I'm not mistaken so using an extractor would be pretty difficult as it will be tough to drill a decent sized hole in the middle of the broken srew to thread in the extractor, counter clockwise.

 

If all else fail, you will need to determine the exact M size of the screw and take a HSS drill about 0.5mm smaller than the screw thread size and slowly and accurately remove the remaining stud by drilling into the body of the caliper.

 

Please note that the end of the screw threading is important as it is V angled to allow the screw to seal out the brake fluid when closed, so do not drill to the very end.

 

You will need to clean out the remaining threads inside the hole and you will need to buy a similiar sized thread with a similiar thread length, called Heli-coil to re-thread. this you can buy from a shop at Ah Boy area. The shop sells screws and studs and is facing the HDB blocks.

 

It would be helpful if you had removed the brake piston and re-install them later. This allow you to be sure that all metal chips can be cleanly removed when you drill into the cailper body, as some metal chips could be lodge inside the cavity of the caliper .

 

Cheers

Posted
Yup i've removed the pistons. Now it's left only the body of the caliper. Thanks for the info. How much would the helicoil cost?

 

You can drill out the stuck bleed screw, and tap the next size bleed screw. Before doing that, you need to determine your existing bleed screw, and check if the next size is available.

 

You can get your bleed screws from Speedbleeder, they come in many sizes, and it will make your subsequent bleeding easier.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am facing the same problem now.

I intend to dril out the insides of the old screw and slowly remove the thread.

Make sure to replace new ones with stainless steel nipples. they are alot more hardy.

 

BTW heli screw set cost about $80

Posted

A broken extractor in the bleed screw made it 10 times more challenging… haha :cool:

 

You need something harder than the extractor (very very hard) to drill/cut/grind through it, takes a lot of patient and time.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/screw2.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN6003.jpg

 

This is a broken bolt (M5X14 stainless steel) on my bike cylinder head. Sized dead by the factory applied thread locker, I snapped the head of the bolt when I tried to unscrew it.

 

I was reluctant to use heat at this area. I don’t know a good welder who can weld a rod/bolt over the broken bolt, using bolt extractor will end up with a broken extractor in a broken bolt. So I picked the most time consuming but safe way by grinding/hollowing the body of the bolt using a tungsten carbide burr leaving a coil of bolt thread sticking to the internal thread by the thread locker. Then I use acetone to dissolve the thread locker and pick out the coil of thread using a pair of tweezers.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/screw.jpg

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN6028.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/3-2.jpg
Posted

Wah power. I went to several machine shops. They say they won't drill through the broken extractor coz it's hardened steel. So is it a new set of calipers for me?

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b112/h4hahak1m/DSC01047-1.jpg

 

Spark 135 and x1r riders!

Add yourself into our new FB page now!

Or if u're and ex-spark/x1r rider.

No registration fees :)

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Posted

try this use a

1)******* file and flatten the surface. Busturd file.. roughest file..

 

2)centre punch in the middle of the extractor.

3)drill through... But make sure to check its depth and not to go too deep.

 

there is a shop along King george that custom brake lines and exhaust links they also sell bleeding screws. about $3.50 if i am not wrong....

Bring your old one along so that try the thread out.

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