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Posted (edited)
Good evening all gurus here on the forum! i've recently gotten a gsxr400 off this forum at a bargain and i'm looking to get my hands dirty working on it. I used to own a phantom and it was great fun working on that bike. However, this machine is definitely a bigger challenge for my rather limited mechanical skills. My current bike has its tachometer not functioning correctly. it doesnt read past 8k rpm. Is there anyway i could source for a new part at minimum cost and rewire it?
you sure its the meter faulty? you mean you can rev past 8k, its only the needle jam or what? if your bike cant rev past 8k, maybe your cdi is faulty.

you can try KS MOTOR opp Regina. sell suzuki parts.

Edited by ben2306
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Posted
how im actually very noob at this, how do i check that the shocks are ok? how do i know if the carb is ok? and if the engine will jam halfway after i buy the bike?
for front shocks, use your little finger touch around the inverted area see whether its oily or not. if yes means leak alrdy. if no, sit on the bike, press front brake & push the handle down 100 times, then use your little finger again to saiyang the invertered area see got oil or not. if still no, then should be ok. cos seller may wipe clean x2 for you to touch... as for the rear, i think gota ride past hump see pillion fly off anot... if fly, means rear shock cant absorb the ...

good luck!!

Posted (edited)
how im actually very noob at this, how do i check that the shocks are ok? how do i know if the carb is ok? and if the engine will jam halfway after i buy the bike?
carbs... start the bike. talk co ck with seller, let it warm up for awhile, then rev till 6k let go see the sound cmi or strong. low rev also @ 2k-4k if like no power hard to reach. carbs got problem la. repeat high rev, if got black smoke when high rpm, carbs got problem not alot of carbon!! if you cant pull the rpm frm idle to 8k smoothly, then forget it. sound? if the sound like scooter sound, then cannot la. must sound like power power.

engine? put your ear near the engine, slow repeat rev see whether there's any metal sound. listen @ idle if the tick tock metal sound go faster as you turn the throttle, piston ring spoilt, never change, piston will bye bye. shake the brake discs also, if shaky, its up lorry liao. ride @ slow speed, front brake, if handle jerk before stop, disc spoilt liao. look for warp on disc also...

 

whats your budget for the bike? if 2k - 3k, find a 1k+ bike, then rest use on wear & tear loh. there's 1 selling @ $1220 only... dont let shop chop you when they tell you this that spoil must change. look for some1 for opion 1st. carbs problem, i may be able to solve for you. @ least explain to you as i've been bull sh it by shops too much. i'll be servicing my own carbs soon. if interested, pm me your contact, join me.

Edited by ben2306
Posted

As the tacho climbs to about 7k during riding it starts to fluctuate between 6 and 8, while the engine accelerates normally. i havent attempted revving it in neutral to ascertain the symptoms though. Thanks for your help, ill check out that shop in any case.

Posted
As the tacho climbs to about 7k during riding it starts to fluctuate between 6 and 8, while the engine accelerates normally. i havent attempted revving it in neutral to ascertain the symptoms though. Thanks for your help, ill check out that shop in any case.
you gota make sure its the meter faulty. i've heard rpm stuck @ around 6k, never got over. in the end, a new cdi solved the problem.

KS Motor is a distributor of suzuki. they only sell, its 1 of the consider cheaper distributor. there's others but price maybe higher. try to bargain, if you confirm on buying.

Posted
you gota make sure its the meter faulty. i've heard rpm stuck @ around 6k, never got over. in the end, a new cdi solved the problem.

KS Motor is a distributor of suzuki. they only sell, its 1 of the consider cheaper distributor. there's others but price maybe higher. try to bargain, if you confirm on buying.

 

I see. i will troubleshoot before making any decisions. But it will likely be the entire meter cluster that will have to be changed right? That sounds expensive... :S

 

What is the normal idling speed for the bike? 1.5-1.6k rpm? Ive noticed when the engine is hot, it tends to idle fast (nearly 2.5k rpm). Should i get my carbs looked over? since a lot of forums are saying that the carbs on this bike tend to give problems.

Posted (edited)
I see. i will troubleshoot before making any decisions. But it will likely be the entire meter cluster that will have to be changed right? That sounds expensive... :S

 

What is the normal idling speed for the bike? 1.5-1.6k rpm? Ive noticed when the engine is hot, it tends to idle fast (nearly 2.5k rpm). Should i get my carbs looked over? since a lot of forums are saying that the carbs on this bike tend to give problems.

my idle after warm up is 1.4+k rpm. when cold is 1k+ rpm. so you adjust the idle to 1.4k when engine hot is more accurate. this carbs is really a pain in the arse. even alot of shops dont know the factory setting for its mixture screw. just a turn more can cost it to be running rich. old o-rings also problem. i've let shops do my carbs, its only getting better but still rich. so i've decided to change my o-rings myself when my morgan carbtune from uk arrive, set to factory setting. if you interested, pm me your email add,i email you some useful info on carbs. you can try your luck on old meter from shops like planet.

know how to adjust idle? its in the bottom center of carbs 2 & 3.

Edited by ben2306
Posted
I see. i will troubleshoot before making any decisions. But it will likely be the entire meter cluster that will have to be changed right? That sounds expensive... :S

 

What is the normal idling speed for the bike? 1.5-1.6k rpm? Ive noticed when the engine is hot, it tends to idle fast (nearly 2.5k rpm). Should i get my carbs looked over? since a lot of forums are saying that the carbs on this bike tend to give problems.

maybe i have some left over new o-rings for the floaters in carbs as my floaters just change few months ago. if you are interested, i'll sell them to you @ low price. 2pcs each for each carb. fyi, you wont be able to just get them without getting the whole set of floaters. pm me for more info...
Posted
my idle after warm up is 1.4+k rpm. when cold is 1k+ rpm. so you adjust the idle to 1.4k when engine hot is more accurate. this carbs is really a pain in the arse. even alot of shops dont know the factory setting for its mixture screw. just a turn more can cost it to be running rich. old o-rings also problem. i've let shops do my carbs, its only getting better but still rich. so i've decided to change my o-rings myself when my morgan carbtune from uk arrive, set to factory setting. if you interested, pm me your email add,i email you some useful info on carbs. you can try your luck on old meter from shops like planet.

know how to adjust idle? its in the bottom center of carbs 2 & 3.

 

Thanks for your helpful replies ben. This is my first time owning an inline-4 bike with carbs, from what i understand, it's a world apart from single cylinder thumpers. Mixture and idle speed aside, we have to worry about syncing them too right? Right now, the idling on my bike is very inconsistent. Sometimes it idles fast (especially when hot) and the revs are slow to drop from 2.5k back down to 1.5k, other times it idles really slowly and occasionally stalls. Also, it is currently running a bit rough and i think i can smell fuel in the exhaust gas. I guess its running rich? I plan to bring it to planet or somewhere reliable to do a thorough servicing on the carbs and probably tuning. I believe you on the o-rings as there is a lot of information and complaints about the issue on the net. However as I've just got this bike I'd want to take it slowly and find out more before forking out any more money.

 

I could use the info that you have though, would appreciate it much. I'll pm you my email.

Posted

Also, where is the mixture screw? there's only one screw for all 4, or do i have to adjust one screw for each carb?

Posted (edited)
Also, where is the mixture screw? there's only one screw for all 4, or do i have to adjust one screw for each carb?
mixture screw is in the carbs. gota open up adjust, then sync all 4 with a carbtune. the 1 screw is idle screw only, adjust your idling. i've email you, if never received, pm me your email add again. i see your email add i blur... read the info i sent you then go shops ask why its running rich. they will tell you rubbish. standard is floaters, gaskets. all they can think of is floaters!! ask the factory setting for mixture screws, see whether they know or not. if they dont, they wont be able to solve your carbs running rich.

 

mixture screws - carb 1 & 2 share 1 screw, carb 3 & 4 share 1 screw, carb 2 & 3 share 1 screw. tune 1&2, then 3&4, then 2&3!

 

inconsistent idle - check your needle, jet. it maybe be damaged. refer to the part list i sent you, no.26.

 

if that shop doesnt know how check your parts in the carbs. & they just open up, wash with petrol, tune, the problem will still be there. actually, tuning should be done after warm up, not right after assemble. most of the time, they just followed the old mixture screw setting in your carbs. so if that setting is rich, in the end its still running rich...

some shops they want it a easy job, they will ask you to change all the floaters & diaphragm aka butterfly. fast but not cheap. if you intend to change them, i suggest you go guanhoe, suzuki workshop. the boss know the carbs better than others.

Edited by ben2306
Posted
mixture screw is in the carbs. gota open up adjust, then sync all 4 with a carbtune. the 1 screw is idle screw only, adjust your idling. i've email you, if never received, pm me your email add again. i see your email add i blur... read the info i sent you then go shops ask why its running rich. they will tell you rubbish. standard is floaters, gaskets. all they can think of is floaters!! ask the factory setting for mixture screws, see whether they know or not. if they dont, they wont be able to solve your carbs running rich.

 

mixture screws - carb 1 & 2 share 1 screw, carb 3 & 4 share 1 screw, carb 2 & 3 share 1 screw. tune 1&2, then 3&4, then 2&3!

 

inconsistent idle - check your needle, jet. it maybe be damaged. refer to the part list i sent you, no.26.

 

if that shop doesnt know how check your parts in the carbs. & they just open up, wash with petrol, tune, the problem will still be there. actually, tuning should be done after warm up, not right after assemble. most of the time, they just followed the old mixture screw setting in your carbs. so if that setting is rich, in the end its still running rich...

some shops they want it a easy job, they will ask you to change all the floaters & diaphragm aka butterfly. fast but not cheap. if you intend to change them, i suggest you go guanhoe, suzuki workshop. the boss know the carbs better than others.

 

I salute your DIY spirit sir. I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty working on this bike... Perhaps we might arrange a meet up some time? I'm really keen to learn more and pick up some skills along the way.

Posted
I salute your DIY spirit sir. I'm looking forward to getting my hands dirty working on this bike... Perhaps we might arrange a meet up some time? I'm really keen to learn more and pick up some skills along the way.
so far, all i know are just theory but soon i'll try it out myself. think my carbtune will reach me in these few days. we'll see how, maybe when i'm servicing my carbs, you can just come, we'll talk about this carb thing. coffee, biscuit on me. time & place i name. lolx.
Posted
so far, all i know are just theory but soon i'll try it out myself. think my carbtune will reach me in these few days. we'll see how, maybe when i'm servicing my carbs, you can just come, we'll talk about this carb thing. coffee, biscuit on me. time & place i name. lolx.

 

sure, i'm very much looking forward to it. in the mean time, ill have to read up and do my own research as well.

Posted

hi guys....

 

i'm selling my GSXR(COE end 2012 nov or dec) at 1500- neg....

bike had been laid up for almost 2 yrs...

the engine is still like a diamond but not the outlook...

can call me to set a time for meet up and neg at 90468313(ken)

or u can take a look at YPmotorsport at tamp ins'tpark behind tamp safra... currently dun have the picture....

u can ask the bike shop personal for detail... if unsure can ask them to call me...

last but not least... if there a sincere buyer that can deal fast there will be a special price for you(note that special price unable to neg and confirm is lower den the current selling price but will only give u the confirm the amount after the initial neg price(it a confirm lower den 1k))

from a sincere seller... hope to hear from you soon...

seriously i dun really wan to sell this beast.... but my wife is complaining too much bike liao.....

 

 

 

PLEASE TAKE NOTE!!!!!

special price can only given if u go thru me 1st....

if u go thru shop owner i cant give you the special price....

Posted (edited)
Hey ben how to check for coolant and raidiator weather got coolant or water inside anot . Recently my bikes getting hot after v short idle
that's not easy leh. might as well change it. can d.i.y if you dare. just take out fairings & tank, unscrew the 2 rings that lock the bottom hose, drain everything then flush with water, then screw back, pour coolant inside mix with water (dont use tap water!), top up the spare coolant @ your pillion seat. thats it. i changed 2years back till now. but actually what i read online, if everything's ok, a g4 gets hot @ idle is good. its only danger when you are moving & its getting hotter! actually coolant is more for winter country to prevent water freeze. am i right? most important, just dont pour tap water, do it with distilled water. your short idle is? check your spare coolant box got water or not. most never top up, then dried up already also dont know... i top up every month to make sure its full. for 2years+, no overheating problem.

think if you go bikeshop, they use industrial tap water...

haha, dont be scare to make the 1st move of d.i.y!! just remember, if you never change it before, make sure everything is ok before you take it out, just in case, here spoilt there spoilt when taken apart. lolx.

Edited by ben2306
Posted (edited)

my plugs fouled again after 3months...

thanks to my bloody carbs & i actually just changed them myself today!!

1st timer for me consider not bad la. lolx.

Edited by ben2306
Posted
hi guys....

 

i'm selling my GSXR(COE end 2012 nov or dec) at 1500- neg....

bike had been laid up for almost 2 yrs...

the engine is still like a diamond but not the outlook...

can call me to set a time for meet up and neg at 90468313(ken)

or u can take a look at YPmotorsport at tamp ins'tpark behind tamp safra... currently dun have the picture....

u can ask the bike shop personal for detail... if unsure can ask them to call me...

last but not least... if there a sincere buyer that can deal fast there will be a special price for you(note that special price unable to neg and confirm is lower den the current selling price but will only give u the confirm the amount after the initial neg price(it a confirm lower den 1k))

from a sincere seller... hope to hear from you soon...

seriously i dun really wan to sell this beast.... but my wife is complaining too much bike liao.....

 

 

 

PLEASE TAKE NOTE!!!!!

special price can only given if u go thru me 1st....

if u go thru shop owner i cant give you the special price....

if i have spare cash. i'll grab it...

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