daily low mileage will cos battery to shorten livespan?

[cougar]

My 1 year old battery just goes flat yesterday. I suspect its either

1. the workshop replaced a new alternator 1 year ago, bad connection?;

2. becos of my daily low start-stop driving distance was insufficient to fully charge the battery, causing it to die out after 1 year;

3. starter motor, ignition coils, alternator, power leak somewhere(mine is stock, no electrical additions to the system) have to look into.

4. before this there was a servicing of my aircon relay cable 1 month ago, which was worn out, and replaced by Tomika with a new one, is this a possibility too?

 

But like to seek your views if 2. is a likely cause of battery pre-mature dying. Is there a minimum rpm to start charging the battery? I slow family driver, rpm always abt 2-2.5k only, speed 70-80kph on a daily basis, and lots of start-stop traffic. Expressway driving only weekends up and down KPE, again only 70kph speed limit.

Edited January 19, 2010 by cougar

[cougar]

just did diagnostic from esso autoshop, its point 2, my start-stop short distance driving causing the battery pre-maturely die out.

[Neegie]

No Idea.. Must ask expert (MS)...

But nowaday the battery lifespan seem to be shorter.. No sign of getting to die also.. Sianzz!!

[cougar]

was told by workshop, battery has memory of charge it is receiving once installed, if my driving is always slow start-stop traffic, low rpm, may not be enough amps to charge the battery to full 90% and above charge, thus the average charge weekly could become only 75% or below, and the chemicals inside gets lesser and lesser, until kaput.

 

Recommended durable battery on the market now is Amaron, Solite. I bought Solite this time round.

[jB]

Amaron might be good but I did the 1-1 exchange on behalf of my friend because his case was identical to yours just that he does much more hard driving supposedly enough to charge but its an OPC so you know the story. I'd advise you to have a digital voltmeter to constantly monitor your battery's health.

 

I am not quite convinced about asking your family to warm up your car when you're not around

[Demon]

I'd advise you to have a digital voltmeter to constantly monitor your battery's health.

 

Just the voltage reading is useless. To check the status of the battery, you would want to know it's cold crank amp (CCA) rating.

 

the battery may read 12v but it has only enough juice to light up some bulbs but not enough to turn the engine.

 

[cougar]

I'd advise you to have a digital voltmeter to constantly monitor your battery's health.

 

Just the voltage reading is useless. To check the status of the battery, you would want to know it's cold crank amp (CCA) rating.

 

the battery may read 12v but it has only enough juice to light up some bulbs but not enough to turn the engine.

 

 

 

Yeah, my old battery still reads 11.8 to 12v, got lights, got horns, but not enuff to crank even the starter motor.

Actually for layman, just look at the maintenance battery's indicator cell colour, green is tiptop, yellow is half dead, clear/black its kaput case. These are supposed to be the electrolyte's colour in the cell.

[contrarian]

Look for limbat, he's got good literature and experience on this.

[jB]

I'd advise you to have a digital voltmeter to constantly monitor your battery's health.

 

Just the voltage reading is useless. To check the status of the battery, you would want to know it's cold crank amp (CCA) rating.

 

the battery may read 12v but it has only enough juice to light up some bulbs but not enough to turn the engine.

 

lol at least you can monitor how's the charge fluctuating man. Even when driving and not just stationary if you know what I mean I hope someone has a solution to this problem asap

 

 

Yeah, my old battery still reads 11.8 to 12v, got lights, got horns, but not enuff to crank even the starter motor.

Actually for layman, just look at the maintenance battery's indicator cell colour, green is tiptop, yellow is half dead, clear/black its kaput case. These are supposed to be the electrolyte's colour in the cell.

both instances for my 2 friends, battery is okay with the Green Indicator. Do note I did say I've changed the Amaron battery before on his behalf, now its running aye okay

 

The other said he left his car in the audio shop and they ID a damaged wire from those LED lightings inside his Aircon vent ; beng style.

[limbat]

Guys, pls read here - another forumer here send it to me -

 

http://www.batteryuniversity.com/index.htm

[jB]

mmm informative! kam sia :]

[kyo crane]

was told by workshop, battery has memory of charge it is receiving once installed, if my driving is always slow start-stop traffic, low rpm, may not be enough amps to charge the battery to full 90% and above charge, thus the average charge weekly could become only 75% or below, and the chemicals inside gets lesser and lesser, until kaput.

 

Recommended durable battery on the market now is Amaron, Solite. I bought Solite this time round.

 

I have doubt, and not very sure. But now a days, battery has memory is no longer valid with new type of battery. If you were referring to bike need a certain rpm to charge the battery, fully agreed, but not for cars. Cause to start charging my bike battery the rpm have to stay above 3. Car don't think so, as what the fellow say, those ppl driving weekend car will have endless battery problem liao. Furthermore, most battery now a days come with factory precharge with some power inside, if as what they say memory issuse "die la" the battery will never get full charge, also those using service free battery (no need to top up battery water one) how?

Just get a quality one, sometime it also depend on your luck too. Some get normal type 3 to 4 year no problem, some 1 year and a month die off (right after one year warrenty), i think to grounding also play a very importance part.