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Posted
Peppercrab, since you dismantle the carb, check float bowl for hairline cracks and any cracks on the black hose.

 

Good idea, I'll check that too. Thanks.

 

Btw, I found different markings for my carb needles in carbs #1 and #3, and carbs #2 and #4.

 

Carbs #1 & #3: J18P (the 8 has a little stroke up)

Carbs: #2 & #4: J18Q (I think it says Q, it looks more like a theta symbol)

 

I am not sure if it is a printing problem, or if they are different parts. The needles are not cheap or else I'll replace them, I think they're around $20 each.

 

If anyone's taken apart the carbs before and know about this, pls let me know, thanks.

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Posted
Peppercrab, you took the whole carbs out? Wow, you are way too advance for me!

 

Actually it's not very hard, icewater.

 

I think the hardest part is pulling the carbs out from the intake manifold, and I think pushing them back in again. They are very very tight.

 

Removing the throttle cables might also be quite a challenge if you have clumsy fingers like me.

 

Once they're out, the rest is actually quite simple, because once you do one, the rest is the same. But you need a Japanese Industrial Standard screwdriver because the screws on the carbs are all JIS (cross with a dot).

 

Can give it a try when you are free.

Posted

Hi guys,

Sorry to just barge into the forum like this.

Know of anyone interested in ST11?

 

Here's my sale link.

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/335512-WTS-White-ST1100X

 

Funding my new ride. :)

1) 1994 - 1996 - FE2367G....8) 2011 - 2011 - FS1313U

2) 1996 - 1999 - FF3643Y....9) 2015 - 2015 - FBB1931Y

3) 1999 - 2004 - FG301Z.....10) 2012 - 2017 - FBF8845X

4) 2004 - 2006 - FW3936M..11) 2015 - 2016 - FT4243M

5) 2006 - 2009 - FR8814A...12) 2016 - 2018- FBA5560M

6) 2009 - 2011 - FW5920U..13) 2017 - .........- FBK89#%L

7) 2011 - 2011 - FBE5577U.14) 2018 - .........- FBK85#%P

Posted

definitely understand what u guys mean by tire safety and getting branded tested prove tires. :)

 

e only reason why i was ok with e shinko tires was cause of ah chong. i always trust him one la. haha! i was like asking him if e shinkos were really ok? and he was like, harley use shinko for how long liao. and he also said he got many blackbirds who have used shinkos and travelled up north and back many many times at speeds of up to 240km/hr. i mean, ah chong is not a person who needs to "sell". if he gets me to buy the bridgestone tires, i'm sure he can earn more, but he assured me it was alright. :)

Posted

Btw, if anyone needs the info, here's what I found about our Singapore ST11.

 

The idle mixture screws are located differently on carbs 1&3, and 2&4. For carbs 1 & 3, the face outwards. For carbs 2 & 4, they face inwards, towards each other. You need the special honda tool (which is flexible) if you want to do the idle drop adjustment with the carbs installed and engine running. I can't even reach them with my Motion Pro tool because of how the screws on 2&4 are positioned.

 

Factory setting for idle mixture for our bike is 1-5/8 turns out. Some crazy mechanic had set mine to 2-5/8 turns out for some, 2-3/8 turns for some, and 2-1/2 turns for some. No wonder my plugs were all black when I removed them, and my fuel consumption is horrible. I set them to 1-7/8, knowing that they probably come very lean from the factory to pass emissions tests. I'm hoping this solves my fuel consumption problem.

 

Slow jet size is 40, main jet is 125, float valve size is 2.6.

 

Carb needles for carbs 1&3 have markings J18P, for carbs 2&4 the markings are J18Q. Brought them down to FJT to check with them, and they said that this is correct.

 

Float level should be set at 7mm, some of mine were at 8mm - 9mm, so I reset all to 7mm. Don't need the special tool, a steel ruler with the 0mm mark flush with the edge will do just fine.

 

Can't wait to put it back together, pump a full tank and go try my fuel consumption.

Posted

Bro, u tune up yr carb yrself ? go chance to learn from u lei!!!

 

 

Btw, if anyone needs the info, here's what I found about our Singapore ST11.

 

The idle mixture screws are located differently on carbs 1&3, and 2&4. For carbs 1 & 3, the face outwards. For carbs 2 & 4, they face inwards, towards each other. You need the special honda tool (which is flexible) if you want to do the idle drop adjustment with the carbs installed and engine running. I can't even reach them with my Motion Pro tool because of how the screws on 2&4 are positioned.

 

Factory setting for idle mixture for our bike is 1-5/8 turns out. Some crazy mechanic had set mine to 2-5/8 turns out for some, 2-3/8 turns for some, and 2-1/2 turns for some. No wonder my plugs were all black when I removed them, and my fuel consumption is horrible. I set them to 1-7/8, knowing that they probably come very lean from the factory to pass emissions tests. I'm hoping this solves my fuel consumption problem.

 

Slow jet size is 40, main jet is 125, float valve size is 2.6.

 

Carb needles for carbs 1&3 have markings J18P, for carbs 2&4 the markings are J18Q. Brought them down to FJT to check with them, and they said that this is correct.

 

Float level should be set at 7mm, some of mine were at 8mm - 9mm, so I reset all to 7mm. Don't need the special tool, a steel ruler with the 0mm mark flush with the edge will do just fine.

 

Can't wait to put it back together, pump a full tank and go try my fuel consumption.

Terence STX :thumb: +65-9072-9070

Posted
Bro, u tune up yr carb yrself ? go chance to learn from u lei!!!

 

Bro, no problem to share knowledge if you ever want to open your carbs.

 

But I never tune, I just set it back to the factory settings + agar agar a bit richer because I know when it comes from the factory, it is very lean because have to pass emissions testing.

 

To tune the idle mixture, I need a digital tachometer that can read in precision of 10rpm, I don't have, have to buy. For our bike, very leychey because of where the pilot screws are located, need the special honda flexible tool, I also don't have. Maybe long screwdriver can work, later I'm fixing back I try see can or not.

Posted
so wats ur FC now Peppercrab?

 

Hi kano,

No idea on FC yet. I just installed it back yesterday, have to wait till I finish this tank, pump a full tank and ride till blinking then I can have an idea.

Posted
Hi,

 

To check around, I mananged to pump 26.8L into tank yet the reserve lights have never once lit up before that. Is this normal?? (FYI at the startup checks, the reserve lights light up => not a bulb problem)

 

Also once the reserve lights up, how many liters approximately would there be?

 

Apprecieate any replies. Thanks!

 

Just to share, Reserve light for mine came out at about 380km. I continue to ride till 400km n was able to pump 23L. From user manual, our tank suppose to be 28L including reserve I think.

Riding can be a safe, fun filled activity for everyone :thumb:

Posted
Bro, u tune up yr carb yrself ? go chance to learn from u lei!!!

I thought u changed to an STX from reading the forum? sTX is EFI right? No need to worry about carb tuning anymore.

Riding can be a safe, fun filled activity for everyone :thumb:

Posted
Any one interested to convert the current headlight to HID ?

I will consolidating order for ST11 & STX13. Plse let me know if u interested and no. of sets.

Estimate price is S$75/set without installation. w/installation +$20/- can do at yr carpark as this is a very simple installation.

plse see below :

cant post pictures here lei why???

 

Still available? By the way, is it legal?

Current stock lights are really dim...

Riding can be a safe, fun filled activity for everyone :thumb:

Posted
Hi bro where can I get those led bulbs? Wat is T10 by the way? The bulb spec is it? How much is one piece? & how many bulbs needed for st1100 instrument panel?

 

Actually, i sell those bulbs bro. T10 is the name of the bulb, mainly indicating the size. there r t5, t8 as well. but most bike today use t10bulbs. i sell these t10 led bulbs at $15/pair. For my st, i used 4 bulbs for the speedo n rpm meter. as for the lights for neutral, petrol indicator etc; those also use t10 and each one uses 1 bulbs. i didnt change those for my st. i only changed the speedo n rpm meter, which uses a total of 4 bulbs.

Posted

by the way bros. i was talking about shinko tires right. i just changed to bridgestone 023 tires and OMG, THEY ARE THE BEST TIRES!!!

 

and i figured out why. the compound used for the shinko tires are quite soft. so if you purely want to corner and not travel at high speeds, the shinkos are the best. I really cornered very low for the shinko tires. really shiok. but they will wear off very quickly.

 

as for the bridgestone 023, they r harder. for the first time, i travelled 190km/hr ALONE without pillion and not a single wobble. I was extremely happy! i know some places selling this tire for $480 with installation. ah boy quoted me $380. ah chong charged me $380 only! i was shocked but super happy! cause the tires r damn good for high speeds. :)

Posted

Hi bro,

Was that $380 for both front and back?

 

by the way bros. i was talking about shinko tires right. i just changed to bridgestone 023 tires and OMG, THEY ARE THE BEST TIRES!!!

 

and i figured out why. the compound used for the shinko tires are quite soft. so if you purely want to corner and not travel at high speeds, the shinkos are the best. I really cornered very low for the shinko tires. really shiok. but they will wear off very quickly.

 

as for the bridgestone 023, they r harder. for the first time, i travelled 190km/hr ALONE without pillion and not a single wobble. I was extremely happy! i know some places selling this tire for $480 with installation. ah boy quoted me $380. ah chong charged me $380 only! i was shocked but super happy! cause the tires r damn good for high speeds. :)

Posted

And recently, I was also talking about rpm ya? I was asking what speed you guys r at for certain rpm.

 

mine was 90km/hr for 3000 rpm. 120km/hr for 4000rpm.

 

I just changed my clutch plates and guess what, now i get 100km/hr at 3000rpm and 130km/hr at 4000rpm. Very nice! :)

Posted
And recently, I was also talking about rpm ya? I was asking what speed you guys r at for certain rpm.

 

mine was 90km/hr for 3000 rpm. 120km/hr for 4000rpm.

 

I just changed my clutch plates and guess what, now i get 100km/hr at 3000rpm and 130km/hr at 4000rpm. Very nice! :)

 

Congrats bro. What's the mileage of your bike now? My clutch is slipping too, can feel it if I open throttle fast in 5th gear. Probably have to do mine soon too.

 

Let us know how it affects your fuel consumption. I think will probably improve by quite a lot.

Posted
Congrats bro. What's the mileage of your bike now? My clutch is slipping too, can feel it if I open throttle fast in 5th gear. Probably have to do mine soon too.

 

Let us know how it affects your fuel consumption. I think will probably improve by quite a lot.

i do hope e fc will get better. will update once i pump. my fc has been quite consistent. always whack here n there, i get 15km/l.

Posted
Congrats bro. What's the mileage of your bike now? My clutch is slipping too, can feel it if I open throttle fast in 5th gear. Probably have to do mine soon too.

 

Let us know how it affects your fuel consumption. I think will probably improve by quite a lot.

i do hope e fc will get better. will update once i pump. my fc has been quite consistent. always whack here n there, i get 15km/l.

Posted
Bros, all newbie ST rider face the same issue. The more u ride on such tighter road the more confidence you will hv wit yy bike lor!

Kano, u will lead the next time we pump up in JB via Woodland.OK?

Hope to u you guys soon....

 

Ya la u two, ever since come back frm Fraser bo jio me to pump petrol already. Angry I follow Melvin and never wait for u is it? Don't be like that la......

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