Suzuki Hayabusa

[keratsini]

wah really ah? i was just following the manual... hmmm... what would be a better choice?

 

What the manual say is the best. However 15-50 is better due to the hot weather.

[pinetreetmh]

What the manual say is the best. However 15-50 is better due to the hot weather.

 

not really true. what the manual say is just a guideline.. on the safe side but not necessary the best. but if u follow the manual u are safe but not necessary the best choice for yr bike. eg. the manual says change oil every 6000km interval. do u think changing oil earlier at 5000km, 4000km or 3000km is better for your bike.

[keratsini]

not really true. what the manual say is just a guideline.. on the safe side but not necessary the best. but if u follow the manual u are safe but not necessary the best choice for yr bike. eg. the manual says change oil every 6000km interval. do u think changing oil earlier at 5000km, 4000km or 3000km is better for your bike.

 

Sorry mate, but I do follow every 6K. So far zero problems. If you change every 4K you simply waste your money. Oil should be 6K or 6 months whichever is earlier. I changed my spark plugs at 17K and they were clean like whistle. The shop even told that was not necessary to change them but I did follow the manual to the letter. The extra money I spend on the bike is on the petrol. I only put Caltex Platinum and of course fully synthetic oil.

 

What the manual recommends it is in deed the guideline to maintain a "healthy" bike.

 

No offence, I'm not arguing with you.

[pinetreetmh]

Sorry mate, but I do follow every 6K. So far zero problems. If you change every 4K you simply waste your money. Oil should be 6K or 6 months whichever is earlier. I changed my spark plugs at 17K and they were clean like whistle. The shop even told that was not necessary to change them but I did follow the manual to the letter. The extra money I spend on the bike is on the petrol. I only put Caltex Platinum and of course fully synthetic oil.

 

What the manual recommends it is in deed the guideline to maintain a "healthy" bike.

 

No offence, I'm not arguing with you.

 

yup.. not arguing at all. just simply suggestions.. like u say the mech say no need to chg spark plug at 17 k but u still chg..

see .. u cn chag oil earlier as well. it all depends on how u ride, what oil u use etc.. at the end if a person finds difficulty in chging gears but its onli 4k he change the oil rite. my point is the manual is a safe guildline not necessary the best guildline.. .

[MV]

Nice right ???

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c57/Daryous/Market%20Place/CleanLongUndertray.jpg

 

You bet!

 

This one also very nice !

 

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c57/Daryous/Market%20Place/TigerRacingHump1.jpg

 

This has always been on my list!

[Hayabusa Sniper]

local still waiting....

 

ok thanks

[hit.man]

so you guys usually use 15W50 or 10W40? Which is the one that will keep the engine cooler? if i remember correctly, 10W40 will allow the engine to run cooler cuz its thinner... is that right?

[MV]

so you guys usually use 15W50 or 10W40? Which is the one that will keep the engine cooler? if i remember correctly, 10W40 will allow the engine to run cooler cuz its thinner... is that right?

 

Engine oil allows engine to run cooler? Mmmm.... Not something tat I know of if your butt is sitting on a 1300cc. There'r perhaps a few options to cool down your engine slightly faster:

 

1. Change your fan blades to Muzzy

2. Drop in a fan switch to manually switch on your fan before your temperature touches the red line or when your 'bolas' r starting to boil.

3. Drop in a second fan.

4. Flush out your stock coolant and fill your radiator up with engine ice of water wetter.

5. Pull out your thermostat sensor to let your coolant run continuously.

 

Good luck!

[hit.man]

Engine oil allows engine to run cooler? Mmmm.... Not something tat I know of if your butt is sitting on a 1300cc. There'r perhaps a few options to cool down your engine slightly faster:

 

1. Change your fan blades to Muzzy

2. Drop in a fan switch to manually switch on your fan before your temperature toucjes the red line or when your 'bolas' r starting to boil.

3. Drop in a second fan.

4. Flush out your stock coolant and fill your radiator up with engine ice of water wetter.

5. Pull out your thermostat sensor to let your coolant run continuously.

 

Good luck!

 

 

Yup I am considering option 3 and 4, and will be doing it at K&T soon... really buay tahan the heat.... everytime i ride confirm the fan will be activated even if its only stopping for a short while at the traffic lights....

 

Anyway, I got another observation which I think I need to be concern about... My bike is leaking oil.... whenever I go and get my bike, I will always notice a few drops of black oil at the area directly below the side stand. I noticed that the top part of my side stand is very dirty and oily..

 

Could that few drops of oil come from a leaky engine? If so, is there anything I can do to remedy it? Could it be that the mechanic never tighten the screw back properly after he release the old engine oil?

[MV]

Anything is possible. Let your trustworthy mechanic do a check.

 

By the way, your orders have arrived. So will be expecting you at workshop tomorrow?

[hit.man]

Anything is possible. Let your trustworthy mechanic do a check.

 

By the way, your orders have arrived. So will be expecting you at workshop tomorrow?

 

eh... not talking to me right?

[MV]

eh... not talking to me right?

 

Of cos replied n refering to u dude.

[hit.man]

Of cos replied n refering to u dude.

 

oh... hahaha.... but what did i ordered???

[MV]

oh... hahaha.... but what did i ordered???

 

Filter, brake hoses etc.

[hit.man]

Filter, brake hoses etc.

 

wah.. you also know ah... haha... filter yes, but brake hose not yet lah... no money...

[MV]

wah.. you also know ah... haha... filter yes, but brake hose not yet lah... no money...

 

My anthenas r long enuff to receive all sorts of infos...

[hit.man]

My anthenas r long enuff to receive all sorts of infos...

 

hahaha... everything you also know

[Tish]

wah lao eh!! u 2 got outing dont go but stay in forum n flood with posts lol....

 

anyway friedfish, i think the oil u refering to could be scottoiler oil accumulated around the side stand area where the chain move past, by all means get a mech to do a proper check, it could be engine oil, or scottoiler oil, maybe u didnt fix the vacuum properly.

[MV]

wah lao eh!! u 2 got outing dont go but stay in forum n flood with posts lol....

 

anyway friedfish, i think the oil u refering to could be scottoiler oil accumulated around the side stand area where the chain move past, by all means get a mech to do a proper check, it could be engine oil, or scottoiler oil, maybe u didnt fix the vacuum properly.

 

Ehhh.... Got more important stuffs to do at home leh....

[pinetreetmh]

Yup I am considering option 3 and 4, and will be doing it at K&T soon... really buay tahan the heat.... everytime i ride confirm the fan will be activated even if its only stopping for a short while at the traffic lights....

 

Anyway, I got another observation which I think I need to be concern about... My bike is leaking oil.... whenever I go and get my bike, I will always notice a few drops of black oil at the area directly below the side stand. I noticed that the top part of my side stand is very dirty and oily..

 

Could that few drops of oil come from a leaky engine? If so, is there anything I can do to remedy it? Could it be that the mechanic never tighten the screw back properly after he release the old engine oil?

 

could be yr oil seal leak. best option is go see mech to check out

[pinetreetmh]

so you guys usually use 15W50 or 10W40? Which is the one that will keep the engine cooler? if i remember correctly, 10W40 will allow the engine to run cooler cuz its thinner... is that right?

 

certain brands of engine oil clams to be able to have a cooler engine

royal purple for eg.

10w 40 15w50 also depends on wat brand u use. but for touring 15w 50 is better as its thicker dont break down so easily under prolong usage. for normal city riding 10w40 more than enough

[Hayabusa Sniper]

http://smilie-land.de/gen/index.php?action=generate&text=I%20M%20Back%20%21%21%21&smilienummer=vorlage13.png

 

I don't believe till I see it with my own eyes

 

I like your quote and i trust you dun spread rumours when u are not there to see it for urself also ya

[quizesilver]

Anyway, I got another observation which I think I need to be concern about... My bike is leaking oil.... whenever I go and get my bike, I will always notice a few drops of black oil at the area directly below the side stand. I noticed that the top part of my side stand is very dirty and oily..

 

Could that few drops of oil come from a leaky engine? If so, is there anything I can do to remedy it? Could it be that the mechanic never tighten the screw back properly after he release the old engine oil?

 

base on your description. it could due to your over opening of you scott oiler. reduce the no to abt setting 3 and see how but clean off the oil at the side stand 1st. why i say so is because the oil drain screw is nearer to the right side of the bike then the side stand.

 

if u are doing a 2nd fan mod. do it parrellel so that the fan will cool it down faster when it is on instead of on it via switch etc too much load for the bike given that busa only got 400w power to used.

[kaieiru]

if u are doing a 2nd fan mod. do it parrellel so that the fan will cool it down faster when it is on instead of on it via switch etc too much load for the bike given that busa only got 400w power to used.

 

 

power consumed by the fan is the same as it is always parallel with respect to the battery... so there's no diff in how you connect it, it's juz how the fan is switched on...

[hit.man]

base on your description. it could due to your over opening of you scott oiler. reduce the no to abt setting 3 and see how but clean off the oil at the side stand 1st. why i say so is because the oil drain screw is nearer to the right side of the bike then the side stand.

 

if u are doing a 2nd fan mod. do it parrellel so that the fan will cool it down faster when it is on instead of on it via switch etc too much load for the bike given that busa only got 400w power to used.

 

Okie dokie... noted. Intend to let both fan work together... i.e. once the temp is high and fan activated, both fan will start together. Don't think I will do a separate switch for that..

 

Thanx for all others input on the leaking oil. Will check on my scottoiler...