The GSXR 600,750 & 1000 Hangout. Where All GSXR Riders Chill And Gather!!

[PK]

Originally posted by kinwei@Jul 13 2005, 10:47 PM

Anyone interested in TRE? I can do a detachable one. No sample now. Just fixed it for PK. $20 nia? ANyone??

hey u got the extra bulb rite can sell to me .... ??? lazy to go and sell

[conspiraC]

K5 750 can join in? no body open new thread for K5 ... feel like orphan like dat.

 

today ... err... later taking my K5 out of shop.... fresh fresh.

 

anyway, hel brakeline, maybe can get from vector one, they dealer for hel. got warranty, if leak, change for free, think so ...

[conspiraC]

anyway, can give pointers on wat to put in a 750??

 

TRE? wif TRE any need for PC or vice versa? i mean if put in PC, is there any need for TRE?

 

wat slipon is the best for gixxer, in terms of additional bhp?

 

and... how regular you need to do mapping or clean up your FI?

 

sorry .... very new to sportsbike. more to touring. this is the 3rd class2 sportsbike. so wheelie all this kind of thing only last time, dirt track days only can do ... now balls shrink already. think getting too old for adrenelin rush

 

99 TL1000R - 3 months

03 R6 - 6 months

05 GSXR750 - still at shop

[sarge]

the new k5 so powerful already...

and you said don wanna wheelie..

 

put engine oil in engine. fuel in tank, ok go...

 

j/k...

 

i think, first you gotta worry about properly running in your bike...

first 1K oil change, 3k oil change...

 

check wif shop what they want to trade in from stock,

maybe ohlins damper/suspension. brembo brake lever. slip on, remap...

brake lines....

 

but if i were you, i'd use it for the next year or so before deciding not enuff performance.

if you read reviews, the stock K5 750 has the capability of outrunning the old gixxer1000s, with tweaks and and remapping...

 

please dun take any offence......

just my thoughts..

[sarge]

proper setup i think is the key.

after running in, fix the PC, full system, and remap...

[Andr3w]

Originally posted by sarge@Jul 14 2005, 08:00 AM

we dont use much of rear brakes, but need it for slow movements.

recommend you service the rear calipers regularly to avoid caliper jam.

 

but who am i to tell you dat when I have HEL for rear brake line too.....

cos my front areadi change to hel by former owner..wanna get the rear done..keke..any lobang?heard goodridge is not bad...

[sarge]

Originally posted by RVF_YOSHI@Jul 14 2005, 10:54 PM

cos my front areadi change to hel by former owner..wanna get the rear done..keke..any lobang?heard goodridge is not bad...

see motorsale still got some leftovers....

[Andr3w]

Originally posted by sarge@Jul 14 2005, 11:21 PM

see motorsale still got some leftovers....

u know the price?

[conspiraC]

Originally posted by sarge@Jul 14 2005, 10:19 PM

i think, first you gotta worry about properly running in your bike...

first 1K oil change, 3k oil change...

hmm... just checking with you guys, usually running in @ how many rmp max. for the first 1000 km??

 

some say that new bikes no need to run in, come out from crate can pull already. but i personally don't think so.

 

so how many rmp max.??

 

and by the way, how to remove those ugly stickers that's pasted on the tank and all over the bike. u know, those warning stickers thingy. how to remove without scratching the paintwerk ...

[conspiraC]

Originally posted by RVF_YOSHI@Jul 14 2005, 10:54 PM

cos my front areadi change to hel by former owner..wanna get the rear done..keke..any lobang?heard goodridge is not bad...

not bad?? must be sure. must be the best ... haha

 

but anyway, i think both hel and goodridge are on par ... but seems to me, goodridge line looks more solid, thicker, compared to hel. but dunno if they just sell the rear only. saw swage lines at hodaka once, i think the sell seperately there.

[sarge]

Originally posted by conspiraC@Jul 15 2005, 03:43 AM

hmm... just checking with you guys, usually running in @ how many rmp max. for the first 1000 km??

 

some say that new bikes no need to run in, come out from crate can pull already. but i personally don't think so.

 

so how many rmp max.??

 

and by the way, how to remove those ugly stickers that's pasted on the tank and all over the bike. u know, those warning stickers thingy. how to remove without scratching the paintwerk ...

there'a a running in thread somewhere, in here.

so many theories....

apart from the gears, a lot of things needs to sit in.

 

under 1k, never hit more than the powerband mid....5-6K.

you'll be at speeds of 100 oredi at 6th gear...

 

change your mineral engine oil at 1K, andd ready for all round run-in..

got cash, change again at 3K.... then can use fully synth oil.......................

 

stickers must be removed ASAP.

bring eucalyptus oil and wd40 for the latex, if any left on...

[ET]

Originally posted by RVF_YOSHI@Jul 14 2005, 10:54 PM

cos my front areadi change to hel by former owner..wanna get the rear done..keke..any lobang?heard goodridge is not bad...

our class 2 the rear is enough liao, what you should worry is the front which your previous owner did the right thing...

[ET]

nw got 2005 750 mer....i thought dont have sia..then have to wait till 2006... nice nice...i just search on the forum...

 

its a bike you will not regret riding for a 750...

[ET]

2005 750

 

You're looking at a supersport bike with racing credentials the competition can only dream about. The legendary GSX-R750, direct descendant of the bike that was introduced 20 years ago and revolutionized supersport riding in America.

 

For 2005, the GSX-R750 offers power and handling to absolutely blow away the competition. Its engine is the embodiment of works-inspired technology. Every bit of its advanced engineering - from the innovative Suzuki Dual Throttle ValveTM digital fuel injection and engine management system to its titanium valves - is dedicated to providing you with phenomenal performance across the powerband. And that's something you have to feel to believe. On the track, its awesome low- and mid-range torque launches you out of corners, while its awesome top-end charge lets you own the straightaways.

 

The chassis and suspension systems are loaded with race-proven features such as technically advanced suspension front and rear, Tokico four-piston radial-mount front brake calipers, and a Nissin radial-piston front master cylinder. The result is razor-sharp responsiveness on all kinds of tracks. To top it all off, the GSX-R750 boasts wind-tunnel developed bodywork and incredibly slippery aerodynamics, especially at racetrack speeds.

 

Specs

Engine: 749cc, 4-stroke, four-cylinder, liquid-cooled, DOHC, 16-valve

Bore Stroke: 72.0 x 46.0mm

Compression Ratio: 12.3:1

Fuel System: Fuel Injection

Lubrication: Wet Sump

Ignition: Digital/transistorized

Transmission: 6-speed, constant mesh

Final Drive: #525 chain

Overall Length: 2055mm (80.9 in.)

Overall Width: 715mm (28.1 in.)

Overall Height: 1150mm (45.3 in.)

Seat Height: 825mm (32.5 in.)

Ground Clearance: 135mm (5.3 in.)

Wheelbase: 1400mm (55.1 in.)

Dry Weight: 163kg (359.5 lbs.), 164kg (361 lbs.) CA. model

Suspension Front: Inverted telescopic, coil spring, fully adjustable spring preload, rebound and compression damping

Suspension Rear: Link-type, gas/oil damped, fully adjustable spring preload, compression and rebound damping

Brakes Front: Dual hydraulic disc

Brakes Rear: Single hydraulic disc

Tires Front: 120/70-ZR-17

Tires Rear: 180/55-ZR-17

Fuel Tank Capacity: 17 liter (4.5 gal.)

Color: Blue/White, Yellow/Black, Blue/Black

[ET]

2004 GSX-R750

 

The Suzuki GSX-R750 is more than just a motorcycle it is the cornerstone of the GSX-RTM line. Indeed, it is the original GSX-R. When the original GSX-R750 was introduced in 1985, it established an entirely new class of machine. The GSX-R750 took over the grid in production-based road racing worldwide, becoming the racebike of choice for an entire generation of roadracers.

 

 

And now, Suzuki introduces the all-new 2004 GSX-R750. Since the beginning, the GSX-R750 has been about overall balance of handling and engine performance. For 2004, the GSX-R750 takes that balance to an entirely new level with an improved compact, lightweight design that creates an awesome combination of handling, performance and style.

[ET]

come to think about it..does k3 have a 750 series??

 

2000 - 750 - heard before

2001 k1 - 750 - owning one

2002 k2 - 750 - saw before

2003 k3 -750 - no idea

2004 k4 - 750 - saw before

2005 k5 - 750 - now i just heard

2006 k6 - 750 - unknown as of now

[ET]

Originally posted by sarge@Jul 15 2005, 08:22 AM

there'a a running in thread somewhere, in here.

so many theories....

apart from the gears, a lot of things needs to sit in.

 

under 1k, never hit more than the powerband mid....5-6K.

you'll be at speeds of 100 oredi at 6th gear...

 

change your mineral engine oil at 1K, andd ready for all round run-in..

got cash, change again at 3K.... then can use fully synth oil.......................

 

stickers must be removed ASAP.

bring eucalyptus oil and wd40 for the latex, if any left on...

check with WW, who is always chattin in the team gixxer already...

[ET]

Originally posted by conspiraC@Jul 15 2005, 03:50 AM

not bad?? must be sure. must be the best ... haha

 

but anyway, i think both hel and goodridge are on par ... but seems to me, goodridge line looks more solid, thicker, compared to hel. but dunno if they just sell the rear only. saw swage lines at hodaka once, i think the sell seperately there.

swage are good quality braided hose also....at motorworld lor...

 

anway i think you can place a PC And forget about the TRE..

[Andr3w]

guys...urgent..my FI kept blinking...gd or bad?

[sarge]

Originally posted by RVF_YOSHI@Jul 15 2005, 12:51 PM

guys...urgent..my FI kept blinking...gd or bad?

no good, a sensor is detecting something or failing.

does it say FI on the lcd?

[sarge]

those who fixed undertray, how much?

moto world quoted me 280++

[conspiraC]

2004 and 2005 GSX R 750, no difference. Only the color scheme.

 

I bet the 2006 comes with other changes, mostly cosmetics. If 2006 looks better, ... ...

[conspiraC]

Originally posted by RVF_YOSHI@Jul 14 2005, 10:54 PM

cos my front areadi change to hel by former owner..wanna get the rear done..keke..any lobang?heard goodridge is not bad...

Ooh and another thing, make sure the shop you go really know how to fix the line. proper bleeding etc. etc.

 

you don't want your brakes to fail you ...

 

unlike cars, this kind of problem is only irritating ... but for bikes

 

I fixed my hel brake lines for my R6 at HKL for ermm... i think 160sgd sumwhere there. best price i can get at that time, but workmanship ... up to invididual

[ET]

Originally posted by sarge@Jul 15 2005, 01:02 PM

no good, a sensor is detecting something or failing.

does it say FI on the lcd?

when you buy this bike, i thought i told you once in the team gixxer forum that you need to check what FI has happen to it before?

 

 

Must check on the secondary throttle problem that k1 and k2 have.....very common, ask him whether he have FI problem, and if he has, ask him open up the tank and look on the right side you will see a mechnism(bronze color), see whether it moves or not when you start and off the bike, because sometimes the secondary throttle may jam by itself and it may also be the secondary throttle motor which is spoil, thus bringing a FI problem to your bike and it may not show in the coding area.

 

Dont bother to buy a problem which he have not solved no matter how fast he claims...cause with a secondary throttle problem, most prob the bike cant shoot to its limit and will have a power cut with that problem.

 

I know this problem cause it has been on my bike, and that i have solved it, luckily my motor is still working well but the lever area(seesaw) is jammed at times, so just have to change a nut in the lever and lossen it, so that it can go up and down like seesaw, that means it is in working condition and the screen will not indicate a FI problem. I think this problem is suppose to be C-28 if i am not wrong, but sometimesit will still indicate C-00

[conspiraC]

Originally posted by sarge@Jul 15 2005, 08:22 AM

there'a a running in thread somewhere, in here.

so many theories....

apart from the gears, a lot of things needs to sit in.

 

under 1k, never hit more than the powerband mid....5-6K.

you'll be at speeds of 100 oredi at 6th gear...

 

change your mineral engine oil at 1K, andd ready for all round run-in..

got cash, change again at 3K.... then can use fully synth oil.......................

 

stickers must be removed ASAP.

bring eucalyptus oil and wd40 for the latex, if any left on...

Ok thanx ... so i'm safe then, most i hit only 4000 rpm.

 

won't WD40 damage the paintwerk? where to get eucalyptus oil? sounds like platypus