BMW Motorcycles

[GSGabes]

Originally posted by Cyclop aka "Sideways!&q@Jul 4 2005, 02:37 AM

Wah..... you giving me big http://www.kings-animal-farm.de/TOXIN02.GIF and small http://www.kings-animal-farm.de/TOXIN14.GIF

Wonder if it can fit the 650

 

Hmmmmmm.... me asking to be http://www.kings-animal-farm.de/diddlgrins3.gif

LOL dunno about the 650.. i think can leh. hehehe

 

Damn forgot which website it is... wait i go search....

 

Here it is.... for the 400

 

http://store.azmusa.com/suzacprod.html

[SDR]

http://www.pocketpcthoughts.com/images/web/2003/ekkie_hw6515_3.jpg

Hold your fire!

 

For those who are ready to burnt their pocket for a HP6515.

 

I did a search on the net and found that HP will be releasing 2 models this July, that is, the HP6515 & HP6715. The later has a faster processor, equip with Wifi & guess should hv a bigger internal memory.

 

But for beginner and not to massive user, the HP6515 may be a good buy at S$1189.00, comes with King's Map for Spore only, Malaysia & Thailand Map - S$150 each. Tested it at Mustafa last night, interesting but quite disappointed with the 240 x 240 screen, 1st to see PPC has a square screen, design wise & the Qwenty Keyboard is very similiar to Palm1 Treo650/600, keypad entry is just wonderful, still miss Treo.

 

Wasn't able to test the GPS as the salesman didn't upload the GPS map & software. Respond is surprisingly good, quite fast, camera - seem complicated, may be I still don't get use to it. Handheld feel very plastic, still prefer o2 and Treo. Anyway, for S$1189.00, you get PDA, Phone, PPC2003SE, MP3, Movie Player and etc... I think it's a steal, I got mine Palm V - 2mb memory, monochrome for almost $800 in 1999. ****.

 

Oh... nearly forget, hold yr fire 1st till they release HP6715 (soon I guess) and I think HP6515 price may drop. Further, rumour has been around for sometime tt o2 mini II will be released soon, with better processor, memory and Wifi. hehehehe, there will be an interesting gadgets war coming soon...

 

hp6515 review

[SDR]

Why frequent oil changes are a very good idea. The oil in this engine had not been changed in several years, which resulted in serious wear and ultimately a scrap engine.

 

http://www.renault4.co.uk/technical/mini-oil-sludge.jpg

Removing the rocker cover revealed the state of the engine. Everything was coated with a thick black crust, and a thick layer of oil sludge sat on every horizontal surface. It's difficult to imagine how the oil still managed to circulate around the engine.

 

The oil and oil filter in a Renault 4 should be changed every 6,000 miles. Not doing so will break your engine as this photograph shows. This engine has since been dispatched to a scrapyard.

 

http://www.renault4.co.uk/technical/mini-clean-oil.jpg

This is what an engine looks like when it's been well looked after. It's the engine from Ermintrude the Renault 4. A very conscientious gentleman from London did an excellent job of looking after the car for a number of years and the engine is like new.

 

Be kind to your Renault 4 and change the oil.

[SDR]

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/norton04061602.jpg

 

the crankshaft bearings are still in the case halves; the complete bearing in the timing side and the outer race in the drive side. All the manuals I've read describe their removal as follows: heat up the crankcases until they're 'bubbling-spit' hot, which expands the bearing areas and will allow the bearings to be removed.

 

1 of the mech's equipment - an oven.

[SDR]

The Importance of Clean BMW Oil Slingers by Craig Vechorik

 

Another helpful hint is to place large bar magnets in the oil pan during reassembly. They stick to the pan, and are isolated from the crankshaft cavity of the crankcase by a baffle screen, which separates the sump from the cavity. The magnet catches the metal of the cylinders and rings, as they wear away, and slow down, but not stop, the deposits in the oil slingers.

[SDR]

http://1st-synthetic.com/20W50_weartestbig0302.gif

 

AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil (MCV) is recommended for Harley-Davidson, Buell, Victory, Ducati, BMW, Aprilla and Triumph motorcycles calling for a 15W-50 or 20W-50 viscosity, providing superior protection in engines, transmissions and primary chaincases.

 

AMSOIL 10W-40 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil (MCF) is recommended for Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, Suzuki, BMW, Husqvarna and KTM motorcycles calling for a 10W-40 or 20W-40 viscosity, providing superior protection in engines and transmissions.

 

Ah Ji Ge Mark Ah... lim pei gai "bi 'cork' sheng u" di si lai ah.... lim pei lao liao ah... buay tahan tan ah... mei mei lai leh... engine oil ai lao U liao ah...

 

 

[SDR]

K1100LT OPINION

 

Cheapest, aging 1992 BMW tourer, ever tot of getting 1? read the author opinion, I am surprised.

 

http://home.versatel.nl/bmw-r-serie/images/BMW%20K-serie%201983%20-%201992/k1100lt%20groot.jpg

http://www.mitsuyo.co.jp/yuichi/off-meeting/20000804tuyuake/015.jpg

[SDR]

INTERESTING... Please read...

 

HMFIC

I have a question about oil change intervals recommended by BMW, and some other German manufacturers. I was going through my g/f's owners manual and it recommends that the oil change intervals at 15k miles. Being raised on the 3mos/3k miles schedule, I found this odd, more odd than the 5k interval on my VW. I expreseed some concern to her about it, so she asked the service advisor about the possibilities of failure due to sludge or reduction in viscosity over time. His response? She was told to tell me, "When he can afford a BMW, he will learn that BMW's are different from American cars." She said he said it in a very joking tone.

*

Second gripe/question, why is VW's recommendation for oil change for its 2.8 V6 5k miles, and Audi recommends 10k mile intervals on the same engine??????

*

Could it be related to the free maintenance these makes are offering customers??????

 

Can any BMW/Audi/VW techs comment on this??

 

goof2

I would not drive a car for 15K miles without an oil change, regardless of what the owners manual says. I know of two instances where long oil change intervals either caused or contributed to engine problems.

 

1: Jaguar's 98-99 XJ8 and XJR. This happened to a few of these cars, enough that it would piss me off if I had a $70k car that needed a new engine.

 

These cars had 10K mile intervals in the owners manual. The problem was the cylinders were lined with nikasil. Due to a combination of high sulfer gas, lots of short trips, and long oil change intervals the nikasil would wear out causing oil blow by. End result, new engine needed. When this problem first started to come to light I believe it was hard to get it covered under warranty. Now it is covered as a sort of under the table warranty deal. Lots of info here

 

2: 95-2000 at least, Toyotas with the 3.0 liter V6. I think they had 10K mile intervals as well. Oil would sludge up. Repair is complete engine rebuild.

 

From what I have read, Toyota really sucked on this one. There was a big story about it like 6-8 months ago because Toyota finally caved. There were I believe a few thousand plaintiffs to a class action suit about this.

 

Apparently, a few of the people in the suit had all scheduled maintenance completed at Toyota dealerships, on time, and Toyota still refused to honor the warranty due to improper maintenance.

 

Bottom Line, having the oil changed more often than what the manual says is cheap insurance. Get it done in whatever interval will give you peace of mind.

 

iDesmo

Okay, two things to remember about long interval oil changes are:

 

1. Oil filter life [about 4 hours run time]

 

2. The recirculating gasses off the erg that will mix and break down engine oil. Also keep in mind that exhaust gas recirculation is bad too for engine oil especially if you drive short distances and the crank case does not reach proper operating temps. Those rich fumes break down engine oil.

 

3. Lastly, the difference between engine hours vs. engine miles. If you drive short distances and decide to change oil at 5,000 miles ...well if it's city driving there is more hours on the engine oil than when driving on the highways cruising 60 mph. Right?

 

Synthetic based stocks will easily go 10,000 miles. Engines are designed with fuel injection, air/fuel mixture computer driven systems and tons of built in reliable factors never found on a carb and choke V8 of the 60's and 70's. Engine oil is better too, detergents are better, fuel is better ...technology is better. The machining of the blocks and assembly is better. Tolerances are higher and better maintained, in German and Japanese cars especially. Cooling systems are better, far better than in the 60's and 70's and 80's.

 

So a lot more goes into the process of calculating oil changes. It's all about machining, cooling, air filteration, good oil fiteration, good ignition systems not running too rich and not too lean ....good distribution and better over all design.

 

So 10,000 on an oil change is do-able. One of my cars does 10,000 intervals. Matter of fact Volkswagen, in the manual suggests 10,000 miles but after the first service at 5,000 miles it reads clearly to do it 10,000. The dealership "recommends" 5,000 but the manual says 10,000 miles after the first 5,000.

 

You can do an oil analysis of your engine oil, taking a sample and sending it into a lab for $10.00. I've seen guys run 25,000 miles on a Cummings pick-up easily with Amsoil. It's about waste, a wasted resource, oil is valuable and why replace it is still usable.

 

goof2

Desmo, you made some good points about the effects of how you drive. The problem is, they don't say in the manuals "If you drive like this you should do A, and if you drive like that you should do B".

 

The manufacturers usually make one statement about oil change intervals. That statement should cover the common driving conditions their cars might encounter, using the worst of those common conditions.

 

If the manufacturer does put a qualifying statement in about lots of short trips it uses as the example the car being used as a cab. Do you think the soccer mom driving the grocery getter on 5 mile trips all day will think that applies to them? I figure it is unlikely, even though it is a good analogy.

 

I don't know how wasteful it is to do frequent oil changes. I know that oil can be recycled, but not how efficient the process is. To me it is a lot more wasteful to rebuild an engine. Good oil is expensive, but not that expensive. Like I said above, I consider it cheap insurance.

 

I don't really know much about diesel engines. What are the recommended intervals on that Cummings?

 

My brother used to work in the service department at a Lexus dealership. He saw a couple of them go 20k+ without an oil change. If it weren't for the fact that they were seized, it would have been great.:laughing

[SDR]

VISCOSITY (AN OIL'S WEIGHT):

All motor oils are graded by viscosity, which refers to how well the oil flows at specific temperatures (at 40°C, and at 100°C, are the standard measuring temperatures). The higher the viscosity number, the thicker the oil, and the more slowly it will flow through a specific sized opening. Generally, the higher the viscosity (also called "weight"), the thicker the oil is, and thus the better the oil is at reducing friction when the oil is hot.

 

MULTI-WEIGHT (multi-viscosity) OILS:

A multi-weight oil is an oil formulation that acts as if it has two different viscosities, depending on the temperature. At the lower test temperature (40°C), it flows as the first number would indicate, and at the higher test temperature (100°C), it flows as the second number would indicate. This multi-weight nature is made possible by the addition of long-chain polymers to the oil, which are coiled up when cold, but straighten out when hot, and thus change the flow characteristics of the oil. Thus a 10w40 oil will flow like a 10 weight oil when at 40°C (fairly thin), but will not thin out more than a 40 weight oil would when hot (100°C). As a second example, a 10w60 oil will flow like a 10 weight oil when at 40°C (fairly thin), but will not thin out more than a 60 weight oil would when at 100°C -- and most motorcycle engines can't take a 60 weight oil (even if it will thin out again as it gets even hotter) without starving the tighter passages for oil supply!

 

Engine Manufacturer's Oil Specifications

The thicker the oil, the more it will dampen vibration, but at the same time, an oil can be too thick (especially when cold) or too thin (especially when hot) for the pumping system of an engine to move it effectively. Oils that are too thick (or contain too long a polymer string, such as a 10W60) can also starve tight passages, such as between the piston rings and cylinder walls, of adequet oil supply (not enough of the thicker molecules fit in the same space). Thus engine manufacturers specify a recommended weight class of oil for use in their engines, one which balances the need for friction reduction with the oil pump's ability to move the motor oil when the oil is cold and when the oil is hot, and which will reach all parts of the engine properly at all times. Since motor oil normally never gets colder than the ambient environment around the engine, engine manufacturers often specify different weights or viscosities for motor oil for their engines based on the ambient temperature the engine is to be operating and parked in.

 

How to understand Motorcycle Oils...And How to Choose Motorcycle Motor Oils...

[SDR]

This cute,

http://csx.jp/~choroq/c7/c/04a.jpghttp://csx.jp/~choroq/c7/c/04b.jpg

[GSGabes]

Kudos!,

 

Hi participants of the "Long Way Up" ride in August, I will be conducting a short briefing session. Iteniaries and Information + Questions will be entertained ONLY during the session.

 

Please give me feedback via email where it will be a good place to conduct this briefing. Cyclops, u got to let me know when u are free this month.

 

Cheers.

[Suzu]

Originally posted by GSGabes@Jul 4 2005, 04:45 PM

Kudos!,

 

Hi participants of the "Long Way Up" ride in August, I will be conducting a short briefing session. Iteniaries and Information + Questions will be entertained ONLY during the session.

 

Please give me feedback via email where it will be a good place to conduct this briefing. Cyclops, u got to let me know when u are free this month.

 

Cheers.

how abt tomolo ? I tink Yellow Bird is off right ?

[Cyclop aka Sideways]

Originally posted by Suzu@Jul 4 2005, 04:53 PM

how abt tomolo ? I tink Yellow Bird is off right ?

2morrow is good, me first off day

 

Where & when Bros?

[Guest koma]

me n keegan workin tml nite shift, wed aT carmen fine with u guys??

[GSGabes]

Fine with Wed? I'm fine....

[Suzu]

Originally posted by GSGabes@Jul 4 2005, 10:23 PM

Fine with Wed? I'm fine....

Wed can oso. How abt CV ?

 

More bike atmosphere there

[Suzu]

Hey guys, mark your calendars :

 

http://slackriders.com/fo2rum/index.php?showtopic=14617

[SDR]

http://www.formulabmwusa.com/pic/i_tech_drivetrain.jpg

 

Ultra-lightweight BMW Power

The Formula BMW FB2's powerful four-cylinder engine is taken from the BMW K1200RS motorcycle. Its 140 bhp is enough to accelerate the 455-kilogram car to a top speed of up to 230 km/h, depending on the gear ratios used. There have been some changes compared to the production engine: the exhaust manifold and silencer have been enhanced, a racing catalytic converter fitted and the engine management system modified. An airbox has also been used to create additional dynamic pressure in the inlet duct and thus generate more power.

 

The engine's performance characteristics mean it operates best at high revs, and the car therefore needs a gearbox capable of handling these. The chosen solution is a Hewland sequential six-speed differential transmission of the kind employed in the more powerful Formula 3 cars. Only a limited number of gear ratios are allowed, chosen for the smoothest possible power delivery on every circuit, while the cardan drive-based engine layout also ensures the best possible frictional connection in the drive train.

 

The ultra-lightweight engine has horizontal cylinders, making it much flatter than usual for a Formula car. The BMW FB2 therefore enjoys all the advantages of a very low centre of gravity.

 

The engine is sealed so that it cannot be tuned by the teams; only Schnitzer Motorsport is permitted to carry out engine maintenance. The result is a longer lifetime and lower maintenance costs keeping equality of chances high.

 

The BMW engine's low weight, high reliability and affordable spare parts make it the ideal choice for a racing car.

[Suzu]

Interesting thread on how to get your Spoke Wheels tubeless:

 

http://slackriders.com/fo2rum/index.php?showtopic=13986

[Cyclop aka Sideways]

Originally posted by Suzu@Jul 4 2005, 10:45 PM

Wed can oso. How abt CV ?

 

More bike atmosphere there

So its Wed then. I'll be stopping by Temptation Alley first.

[SDR]

http://www.esprit-racing.com/pilo/img/gg5bmw.jpg

 

[Cyclop aka Sideways]

Originally posted by SDR@Jul 4 2005, 11:25 PM

http://www.esprit-racing.com/pilo/img/gg5bmw.jpg

 

Eh..... somehow tis blue/white propeller scheme just cannot make it leh....

[GSGabes]

Hey guys Suzu suggested Bala's tommorrow......

 

He will have to book a place for us.

[Cyclop aka Sideways]

Yo SDR,

For your Mrs:

 

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/yamaha_vi...lassic_2005.php

 

http://www.bikez.com/bike/21122/index.jpg

[GSGabes]

hehhehe add some fun here....

 

http://urbanjunkie.macker.co.uk/smiles/googoo.gif