BMW Motorcycles

[SDR]

Ferrari 900 D.O.H.C

 

Built by Kay Engineering as a tribute to Enzo Ferrari. 5 Years in the making with full written permission from Ferrari. This unique, one off engineering masterpiece is totally unused. Engine casings are all of magnesium, body work is of hand beaten aluminum. For further detailed specification please contact us.

 

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferrarishop.jpg

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferrariben.jpg

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferrariclock.jpg

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferrarieng.jpg

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferrarieng2.jpg

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferrarilow.jpg

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferraripeg.jpg

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferraripeg2.jpg

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferraritop.jpg

http://www.philclassic.co.uk/ferrariback.jpg

 

very cheap, only 250,000 pound.

 

Interested?

FERRARI MOTORCYCLE

[SDR]

O yes, there is a Lamborghini bike, although not many were made, but it did exist, and it wasn't even built in Italy, but in France, by Boxer Bikes in Toulouse.

When Patrick Mimran bought the Lamborghini company, he decided to use the Lamborghini name on other things beside cars. He decided to use the fabulous V-12 in off-shore power boats, and with great success, and now he used the name on a bike, but not just a regular bike mind you.

The Lamborghini bike was considered to be one of the very best in the world, together with the legendary Bimota make, which was also a European company, not a Japanese one by the way.

Just like the Bimota, the Lamborghini bike used the best Japanese mechanicals on home built cycle-parts. For the Lamborghini bikes, a Kawasaki engine of 750, 900 or 1000 cc was used, which output between 90 and 120 Bhp and gave the Lamborghini designed bike a top speed in excess of 160 mph.

By using the best parts available, the Lamborghini bike put only 396 lbs on the scale, the light-weight aluminum frame was a work of art by Claude Fior, the shock absorbers were made by Fournales, the exhausts by Devil and Gotti made these wheels especially for this specific bike.

The gold-plated (actually 'Cadmium plated') brake callipers ware made by the well known Brembo craftsperson.

An order list of 50 units was accepted, and in 1986 the production of the Lamborghini bike was started in the Boxer Bikes workshop. They intended to built 100 units a year, and each of them would cost about $13,500, but for this kind of money you bought the best available, besides, a Bimota was in the same price range, and if you owned a Lamborghini car, you should buy a bike too.

 

http://www.lambocars.com/archive/highres/bike.jpg

http://www.lambocars.com/archive/highres/boxer2.jpg

http://www.lambocars.com/archive/highres/bike4.jpg

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/prototype-spy-concept/Lamborghini-BB-small.jpg

[PL]

Whoa lao...just becoz Mystic is 'recovering', you also getting extremely ultra Actively posting uh. Looks like your mood and Mystic's 'health' is intertwined.

 

[Guest koma]

Originally posted by PL@Aug 2 2005, 06:25 PM

Whoa lao...just becoz Mystic is 'recovering', you also getting extremely ultra Actively posting uh. Looks like your mood and Mystic's 'health' is intertwined.

 

haha~~~ yah lor c u guys tml 8:30 at carmon~~ tink i will be at temptation valley bfore tat

[SDR]

Originally posted by PL@Aug 2 2005, 06:25 PM

Whoa lao...just becoz Mystic is 'recovering', you also getting extremely ultra Actively posting uh.  Looks like your mood and Mystic's 'health' is intertwined.

 

 

I got used to Mystic's health liao.Remember, old bike like old man, tend to get sick easily.

 

Too early to swing my mood to the positive side.

 

On that night when spring gave way, i was testing e bike as bike engine experienced some problem @ 4,000rpm, seem like engine oil stop circulating inside, when i lower e engine speed to 3,000rpm & below, i can then feel e engine oil start to circulate again. Hv to closely monitor after gearbox done up. if such problem persist, then i left with 2 choice, tt's : SCRAP IT (tt's why i m looking @ any bike beside BMW) &/or REMOVE OIL BELLY PAN EXTENSION.

 

My nonsense postings are directly related to my job.

 

Free, post more, Biz, no posting, where got time?

[SDR]

How to buy a used (BMW) motorcycle

Introduction

 

At least once a month, I get email asking for my opinion on a particular bike the writer wants to buy. Sometimes it's an attempt to get an outside source to say it's ok (for personal comfort, or to show the significant other, etc.), sometimes the writer wants to know more about foibles of his particular target of ambition, etc.

 

I'm not really an expert on BMW bikes, or motorcycles in general, but I do want to be helpful. I guess I know more than many people about the subject, though, so I try to offer what I know whenever asked. In an effort to provide that assistance to more people (if you don't want my help, hit the "back" button now!), I decided to write this guide.

 

I'm going to cover the situation of finding a bike in a paper or over the Internet, since I suspect that's how most people come to my site.

 

This guide is not meant to be a comprehensive survey of everything that can go wrong with a motorcycle, but rather a framework upon which you can hang specifics for the particular bike you're interested in. It's also a lot of common-sense stuff, so bear with me. That said, let's proceed.

Step one: Overall appraisal

 

The first thing to do is get an overall feel for the bike. If you can get a picture (assuming you can't immediately go visit it in person), that's best. Multiple pictures are nice, but usually not available. Look at your picture. Does the motorcycle look like it's in perfect shape? Does it look like it has "normal" wear? Does it look worn out?

 

Compare the asking price with the apparent condition of the bike. You'll need to know a bit about the market before you can make this assessment. But if you're looking at a 1983 Honda CB500 in average condition (30k miles, faded paint, all functional, a few scratches, etc.), and the seller is asking $5,000, you'll have to figure out why they want so much. Other bikes like this are selling for $1,500 in your market. This should be your first warning sign, and should be an obvious "bad" flag.

 

The same thing goes in the other direction. If you're looking at a picture of an immaculately maintained 1999 Harley Wide Glide with a $500 asking price, it better set off alarms in your head. Most likely the newspaper misprinted the price, but something's wrong there.

 

If you've got a bike ad in front of you that just about matches the market, then you're on the right path. Some of this will involve deciding how much you can spend, and what kind of bike you want. Don't expect to get a one year old BMW R1100 RS for $5,000 unless it's been crashed and set on fire. Likewise, if you've got $5,000 you want to spend, don't go around looking at '82 Hondas unless you're sure that's what you want.

 

Back to the point, if you've got a bike that looks about right for what you want, and you can afford it, it's time to get closer.

Step two: Communicating with the seller

 

Now that you've narrowed down your search to a bike or two, it's time to contact the seller for more information. Here's what I like to ask about:

 

* How many miles are on the odometer? Is that likely how many are on the bike too, or was the odo out of commission for a while?

* Has the bike ever been crashed?

* Has the bike been involved in a drop from a stop or low speed?

* What records exist of previous maintenance?

* What is the seller's appraisal of the bike's condition?

* Are there any known problems (hard starting, stumbling, weird suspension, weak brakes, smoking exhaust, etc.)?

* Does the bike have a current registration and license/tabs?

* Does the seller have the title in his/her possession, and is able to sign it over?

* What extras does the bike come with (tools, manuals, helmets, etc.)

 

This is kind of a limited list if you're really interested in the bike, but it'll give you a better idea of what you're looking at. Almost none of the questions will give a definite "yes" or "no" as to whether you should buy the bike, but here are a few points:

 

Most motorcycles are worn out by the time they hit 100k miles, many well before. BMWs and some Hondas are the exceptions I can think of.

 

A crash is not a disqualifier if you're looking for a project, but don't buy a crashed bike if you intend to ride it straight away. Slow drops don't do much damage, but look out for damaged fairings, as they tend to cost literally more than their weight in gold.

 

Existing records are kind of a "feel good" thing. I always feel better if the previous owner kept records of what all she did to a bike, maintenance-wise, but they certainly don't disqualify a bike (all three bikes I've bought have come without any records at all).

 

License/tabs being current are not really anything to worry about, unless you live somewhere with exorbitant licensing costs. People like to put in their ads "current tabs!" as if it's a big thing, but it really only matters if the cost of tabs will be a significant percentage of the purchase price.

 

Titles, on the other hand, are very important. In most states and countries, it's annoying at best to replace a title, and in some places it's impossible. You'll have to investigate your local laws regarding titles.

 

Extras like helmets and jackets tend to be kind of worthless unless you happen to be the same size as the seller. Helmets especially should be discarded unless you're sure it'll fit you and hasn't had any damage -- we're talking about the thing standing between you and severe brain damage or death; don't you want it to fit well and be in good shape? Jackets, pants, gloves, and boots are all worth looking into, as they can add up to another $1000 on top of the bike if you go out and buy new ones. But again, you have to be the same size as the previous owner.

Step three: Seeing the bike

 

By now, you've gotten the dope on your bike (well, yours someday), and you've looked at similar bikes on the market, to get an idea what they're selling for, if not the precise condition. It's time to go see the bike you've got your eye on in person.

 

If this is a private seller, you're at something of a disadvantage, as the seller may have restrictive terms to let you look at the motorcycle. But if you can, you want to look at the bike in full sunlight (or at least daylight), with clear walking space around it. You should ideally have a friend with you who knows more about this particular bike, or motorcycles in general, if you're not comfortable with your knowledge. In an extreme case, you can sometimes pay mechanics to come examine a bike with you.

 

If at all possible, you want to look at the spot where the bike is normally parked. Look for oil spots, and note their location -- engine leaks are usually more benign than gearbox or drive shaft leaks.

 

First things first. Check the obviously comparable stuff, like odometer mileage (remember that the owner may still be riding the bike, so her ad may have the mileage a little bit low compared to right now), apparent condition, and asking price. If any of these things diverge significantly from what you knew beforehand, it may be time to walk away.

 

The next thing to do is look for big glaring problems. Notable among these will be things like crash damage (look for bent frame tubes, big scuffs on exposed metal parts, cracked or scuffed fairing pieces, wheels that don't line up, etc.), old old rubber (cracked or brittle rubber parts, including tires), oil leak stains, etc. If the motorcycle you're looking at has a centerstand, get it up on the centerstand and spin the wheels to see if they're still basically true.

 

At this point, you can start looking for smaller problems, which will almost always be specific to the bike in question. Some examples might be worn-down chain sprockets (indicating poor adjustment of the drive chain), grooved brake discs, rust spots, etc. These are only examples, and you'll have to tailor your search for the particular bike.

 

The next step is to start the bike up and see what works. (Note that some owners won't let you do this. Walk away immediately and don't look back if this happens.) Make sure that all the indicator lights glow visibly (sunlight, remember) when you turn the key on. Hitting the starter button should produce immediate starting noises, not a click or a hesitation and then starting. Once the bike is running, check all the lights. The headlight should be on all the time if the motorcycle is newer than about 1980 in the US (non-US bikes won't necessarily do this). The brake light should be bright if you squeeze the front brake handle slightly or press the rear pedal slightly. The running light in back shouldn't dim when you hit the brake. All the turn signals should work, if they exist. Check four-way flashers if the bike has them.

 

When you start up the bike, check for black, blue or white smoke from the exhause pipes. Blue indicates burning oil (possible valve train or ring leaks), white is actually steam from coolant (probable head gasket leak), and black indicates poor combustion (dirty spark plugs, carbon, etc. -- not a bad problem). Many motorcycles don't idle at all well when they're cold, so don't take that as a problem. The seller will probably show you the correct procedure for starting and warming up the bike (choke, etc.). Don't be concerned if the bike doesn't start right away -- sometimes a motorcycle that's been sitting for a while will be hard to start, and this isn't necessarily a bad thing.

Step four: Riding the bike

 

This is a step that some private sellers won't let you take, but any dealer worth their salt will have you sign a disclaimer and let you take a test ride. Seen from the selling side, you'll understand that they don't want to let someone ride off with their bike unless they're fairly certain you're not going to crash it or dissappear. Offering a deposit (if you're serious) or some form of collateral might appease a hesitant private seller.

 

The test ride is going to be a fairly subjective thing. If you're an experienced motorcycle rider (then why are you reading this? you'll know what doesn't feel right. But if you're new, it's hard to describe what feels right and what doesn't.

 

Basically, the motorcycle should feel comfortable at its tasks. It should accelerate with very little hesitation; it should steer without requiring too much force on the handlebars; the suspension should absorb most of the road irregularities and bumps; the clutch shouldn't be grabby, and shouldn't break free under hard acceleration; and the brakes should slow the bike down without strange noises, grabbing, sticking, or excessive force. You'll have to be the judge of whether the bike you're riding passes that test or not.

 

A note about safety: keep in mind that a 180 pound person on a 500-750cc bike can accelerate about as well as a Porsche 911, so don't hit the throttle too hard unless you've got a clear space in front of you. Likewise, a bike with decent brakes can stop in a half to two-thirds the distance of a car going the same speed, so don't test the brakes with someone behind you. You'll also slip on gravel or wet leaves, so if you've got to cross over them, do it upright and without any brakes or accelleration.

 

If you ride the bike for 10 minutes and it all feels good, then you're well on your way.

Step five: Finalizing things

 

You're now ready to finalize the deal. There's one important step left before you hand over all your money, however: the lemon check.

 

I usually make it part of the terms of the sale that a mechanic will inspect the bike before the sale is complete, and if he finds anything wrong, that gives the buyer and seller a chance to renegotiate or cancel the deal. Then I take the bike to the nearest motorcycle mechanice I can trust (this will probably take some prearrangement, or it may delay things as you make an appointment), and have them do a pre-purchase inspection. At my local BMW dealer, this costs about $100 (1.5 hours of shop time, or thereabouts), and is actually a service described by BMW, called a 41-point inspection. Other dealers may have their own thing, but the important thing is you want an experience mechanic to look over the bike for any surprises you didn't discover.

 

I would make sure this includes checking compression, checking all the fluids for level and quality, and a ride test.

 

What I like to do is to place a deposit on the bike (shows the seller I'm serious) and arrange to get it to the inspection. Do not let the seller choose the inspecting mechanic, find them on your own. At this point, I write up a bill of sale with the owner (if it's a private sale), which usually looks something like this:

 

I, ____________ (buyer) agree to buy this motorcycle, ___________

(license number) from _____________ (seller) for $______ (price), as

long as a pre-purchase inspection at the mechanic of my choice doesn't

find any problem which would take more than $_____ (fixing price) to

fix, or I the buyer find to be a disqualifying problem. I am placing

$______ (deposit) down as a deposit on this vehicle to indicate my

interest; this deposit will be refunded to me if the inspection turns

up major problems, and will be applied toward the purchase price if it

doesn't.

 

[buyer sign] [seller sign] [date]

 

* Note: I am not a lawyer! Don't trust me on this one, get your own bill of sale wording from someone you can trust!

 

If the inspection comes up with any "must fix" items, it's probably time to look at the deal you made, and consider renegotiating. 9 times out of 10, these problems will not be known to the owner (use your judgement here), so don't blame them for it; just readjust the price and get on with it. If the inspection comes up with something you can't live with, then back out of the deal and thank the owner for her time.

[SDR]

How To Buy A Used BMW Motorcycle

 

 

a. Why a BMW?

 

There are many reasons to choose bikes, and as many generalizations about the same bikes. Japanese bikes are dependable, Italian bikes are fast, and German bikes last forever. Not very many BMW riders have only ridden BMW's, most have come over from Japanese bikes searching for a bike with "soul." Your choice is entirely a personal one, and you should never make a major investment without evaluating all of the possibilities. Remember though, that most have chosen BMW motorcycles because of the reputation for durability, dependability and longevity. Personally I chose BMW because I wanted a bike that I could ride a long, long way before having to worry about extensive engine work.

 

The R series is further divided by the modern fuel-injected bikes and the older carbureted bikes. The older carbureted twins, known as "Airheads" are widely respected for being a simpler design, durable, and easily and inexpensively repaired. The later and more complex fuel-injected twins, known as "Oil-Heads" are well known for raw power and the famous handling from the revolutionary "telelever" front end. The K bikes, known as "Bricks" from the appearance of the engine, or "Whiners" due to the distinct whine created by the sound of the fuel pump, are the most complex of the BMW bikes. They are renowned for dependability, incredible durability, and ease of regular maintenance.

[SDR]

http://www.bikez.com/bike/20393/index.jpg

 

General information

Model: Yamaha MT-03

Year: 2004

Category: Super motard

Rating: 84.3 out of 100. Show full rating and compare with other bikes

Engine and transmission

Displacement: 660.00 ccm (40.27 cubic inches)

Engine type: Single cylinder

Stroke: 4

Cooling system: Liquid

Transmission type

final drive: Belt

More details Consult a Yamaha repair manual.

Physical measures

Chassis and dimensions

Front brakes: Double disc

Rear brakes: Single disc

Speed and acceleration

Other specifications

Further information

Parts and accessories Check out parts and accessories from our partners. Yamaha MT-03 accessories

Ask questions Join the 04 Yamaha MT-03 discussion group

Insurance, loans, tests Search the web for dealers, loan and insurance costs, tests, customizing, etc.

Related bikes List related bikes for comparison of specs

[PL]

Originally posted by SDR@Aug 4 2005, 02:52 PM

http://www.bikez.com/bike/20393/index.jpg

 

Check out the yellow shocks! Is it placed there to show off?????!!!!!

[Guest koma]

Originally posted by PL@Aug 4 2005, 03:21 PM

Check out the yellow shocks! Is it placed there to show off?????!!!!!

y?? u dun like ur blue shocks ah??

[PL]

Originally posted by koma@Aug 4 2005, 04:03 PM

y?? u dun like ur blue shocks ah??

I dunno yet. haven't fix yet. This evening, it will be done..... hopefully.

 

Anyway, it's good to keep it hidden, keep it low-profile. Don't want it to scream like the picture "Hey, I'm OHLINS here!!!!!"

[GSGabes]

Originally posted by PL@Aug 4 2005, 04:20 PM

I dunno yet. haven't fix yet. This evening, it will be done..... hopefully.

 

Anyway, it's good to keep it hidden, keep it low-profile. Don't want it to scream like the picture "Hey, I'm OHLINS here!!!!!"

Hehehhe....

[Guest koma]

Originally posted by PL@Aug 4 2005, 04:20 PM

I dunno yet. haven't fix yet. This evening, it will be done..... hopefully.

 

Anyway, it's good to keep it hidden, keep it low-profile. Don't want it to scream like the picture "Hey, I'm OHLINS here!!!!!"

hehehe~~ new "toy" for u n me

tried out my new toy juz now damm shiok~~~

[SDR]

 

Nice way of showing off,isnt it?

[SDR]

Originally posted by koma@Aug 4 2005, 10:35 PM

hehehe~~ new "toy" for u n me

tried out my new toy juz now damm shiok~~~

Slow down,Mr Koma.Slow down.TT's a GS not 636.

 

Frankly, very nice (in terms of appearance & sound) RAMUS exhaust. Love to hv it but sadly not suitable for my OLD bike.

 

[Guest koma]

Originally posted by SDR@Aug 5 2005, 12:24 AM

Slow down,Mr Koma.Slow down.TT's a GS not 636.

 

Frankly, very nice (in terms of appearance & sound) RAMUS exhaust. Love to hv it but sadly not suitable for my OLD bike.

 

hehe my gs more on the road than the 636 macham like isle of man TT

well goin out for a spin now n c can find any ah beng riders on the road

[Guest koma]

chinese 7th mth start liao guys remember cover ur bike else tml ur bike all become black colour liao

try to make sure u dun hav "pillon" when riding alone at nite

[PL]

Originally posted by koma@Aug 5 2005, 12:31 AM

chinese 7th mth start liao guys remember cover ur bike else tml ur bike all become black colour liao

try to make sure u dun hav "pillon" when riding alone at nite

*gulpp...

I'm riding alone at night tomorrow...........

But the blue springs will repel all evil spirits! muahahahahah!

[Guest koma]

Originally posted by PL@Aug 5 2005, 01:45 AM

*gulpp...

I'm riding alone at night tomorrow...........

But the blue springs will repel all evil spirits! muahahahahah!

Best go in 2nd link after 11pm confirm no jam. 9plus sure jam like hell 10plus maybit abit jam onli

[SDR]

Done 82 km last night, did the testing on highway most of the time. reaching max speed at 140km/hr, lucky didn't see Koma, he will sure to blow me off with his mee RAMBUS exhaust.

 

This time, I did not experience engine speed drop at 4000rpm, which is good new I think, but at 5th gear, bike was experiencing HIGH VIRBARTION from 3200rpm onwards, PEAK VIBRATION at 3750rpm, subsided when reaching 4,000rpm, my 1st experience on such weird behaviour, but after 4000rpm, the bike can pull extremely smooth and all vibration disappeared.

 

Can any1 advise, many thanks in advance.

 

:confused:

 

Did a carb syn this morning to discover that tuning was totally out, anyhow gasak gasak the carb. Hope everything will be fine.

 

At this moment, I think bike is 70% ready for Cameron Highland.

 

[hanwoon]

SDR, I keeping my finger cross for you ...

Give you one additional piece of BKT if you can make it for the trip ...

[PL]

Originally posted by SDR@Aug 5 2005, 10:33 AM

At this moment, I think bike is 70% ready for Cameron Highland.

 

Good enough. I see you at Rawang RSA on Sunday. Must come. Life is short, 'play' your bike hard.

 

But seriously, why dun just ride to KL with the rest and see how? If something is wrong, drop by KL BMW for a while. Or if really not comfortable, then just turn back. For me, it's also a good thing I ride to KL first on my own with new shocks. If something is wrong, then I would've discovered it by then, and I can choose not to follow u guys for the rest of the journey. If something happens, delay everybody else, not shiok already. But if go KL, no problem, then CH here I come.

 

My shocks so far, at low speed (

[SDR]

Originally posted by hanwoon@Aug 5 2005, 11:20 AM

SDR, I keeping my finger cross for you ...

Give you one additional piece of BKT if you can make it for the trip ...

Thanks, give me the B will do, you keep the K & T. Hope so, 2nite is the last test, if all goes well, I will take your portion of BKT. hehehe.

 

[SDR]

Originally posted by PL@Aug 5 2005, 11:49 AM

Good enough. I see you at Rawang RSA on Sunday. Must come. Life is short, 'play' your bike hard.

 

But seriously, why dun just ride to KL with the rest and see how? If something is wrong, drop by KL BMW for a while. Or if really not comfortable, then just turn back. For me, it's also a good thing I ride to KL first on my own with new shocks. If something is wrong, then I would've discovered it by then, and I can choose not to follow u guys for the rest of the journey. If something happens, delay everybody else, not shiok already. But if go KL, no problem, then CH here I come.

 

My shocks so far, at low speed (

Understand you need to "warm" up your shocks. 60km/hr - guess you hardly reach that speed even in spore, let's not talk about NSH, try 160km/hr, you will appreciate it. I mean cornering. hehehe.

 

Enjoy yours.

 

 

That's my main worry, hope not to delay others. Anyway, will monitor again tonight.

 

I was thinking last night, why am so bother with engine speed below 4,000rpm, knowing that once I hit NSH, don't think engine speed will fall behind 5,000rpm (pls bear in mind, mine is 2V, 5,000rpm is high revs but my speed only 140km/hr). But better be safe than sorry.

 

Wish me luck. Thanks.

[GSGabes]

Originally posted by SDR@Aug 5 2005, 12:46 PM

Understand you need to "warm" up your shocks. 60km/hr - guess you hardly reach that speed even in spore, let's not talk about NSH, try 160km/hr, you will appreciate it. I mean cornering. hehehe.

 

Enjoy yours.

 

 

That's my main worry, hope not to delay others. Anyway, will monitor again tonight.

 

I was thinking last night, why am so bother with engine speed below 4,000rpm, knowing that once I hit NSH, don't think engine speed will fall behind 5,000rpm (pls bear in mind, mine is 2V, 5,000rpm is high revs but my speed only 140km/hr). But better be safe than sorry.

 

Wish me luck. Thanks.

good luck! May the Bak Kut force be with u.....