Honda NSR150SP Riders

[wait4me]

pocket reason ??

 

then 92 lo

[frslims]

So comparing 95 & 98, was there any diff in terms of smoothness? Some of my frens who drv tell me that 95 feels a bit rough & that higher quality fuel feel smoother & better pickup.

 

If no real diff in terms of smoothness & acceleration, maybe i wld jus switch to 95 - purely pocket reasons! lol

Depend on your engine compression and settings

 

 

If not, its just waste the money

[sporeknight]

pocket reason ??

 

then 92 lo

I hav tried 92 b4 too. Jus test wats the diff bet 95,98,92. 92 giv the worst mileage n acceleratn. Based on my own opinion, the car makers did use the diff octane fuels to test for best efficiency n performance. Tats y vehicles hav the octane sticker. It's there for a reason I suppose. But eventually still dep on individual. U feel v power somehw is best, jus use it lo. It still comes down to the user.

[wait4me]

I hav tried 92 b4 too. Jus test wats the diff bet 95,98,92. 92 giv the worst mileage n acceleratn. Based on my own opinion, the car makers did use the diff octane fuels to test for best efficiency n performance. Tats y vehicles hav the octane sticker. It's there for a reason I suppose. But eventually still dep on individual. U feel v power somehw is best, jus use it lo. It still comes down to the user.

92n95ok wan if not in Thailand how to pump petrol. There also got 91

[FireGunz]

Hi Senior, recently anyone changed tire for rear 120/80-17 or 130/80-17... just wording any idea about the price & where is the shop (location). Care to share about the info as I had checked some charge around $130 - $170.

 

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[JrCherish]

Hi Senior, recently anyone changed tire for rear 120/80-17 or 130/80-17... just wording any idea about the price & where is the shop (location). Care to share about the info as I had checked some charge around $130 - $170.

 

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I change to bt090 @ 140. Size is 120/70 - 16. From my usual repair shop. Hehe. I don't think 130 can fit.

[sporeknight]

Hi Senior, recently anyone changed tire for rear 120/80-17 or 130/80-17... just wording any idea about the price & where is the shop (location). Care to share about the info as I had checked some charge around $130 - $170.

 

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I chg my rear 110/80/17 Dunlop Japan at $140. Orig specs 120/80/17. Don thin 130/80/17 can fit. Too wide Liao. Do take note of bike tyre manufacture date stamped on yr tyre. Preferably NT more than 6mth old. If do, ask for more discounts. Recom tyre life span 4yr from manuf date.

 

After chg, do chk yr tyre nozzle. Occur to mine it leaks aft chg tyre cos that nozzle is more than 14yo and mechanic rough handling. But its nt his fault. The nozzle is old Liao, tend to break ez s it is still made of rubber.

[FireGunz]

I chg my rear 110/80/17 Dunlop Japan at $140. Orig specs 120/80/17. Don thin 130/80/17 can fit. Too wide Liao. Do take note of bike tyre manufacture date stamped on yr tyre. Preferably NT more than 6mth old. If do, ask for more discounts. Recom tyre life span 4yr from manuf date.

 

After chg, do chk yr tyre nozzle. Occur to mine it leaks aft chg tyre cos that nozzle is more than 14yo and mechanic rough handling. But its nt his fault. The nozzle is old Liao, tend to break ez s it is still made of rubber.

 

Thankyou for sharing the info.

By the way, where did you change it at which shop. If the price is reasonable enough may be I can change it to 120/80-17 (possible is Dunlop. If not, 110/80-17) seem the 130/80-17 does not able to fix (base on your experience) reason is right now as my 100/80-17 (rear) when go on hump or with pillion during the turn angle will knock (somethime) at the rim (I think) even the pressure around 200 kpa.

 

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[durango8]

hi guys i just passed my 2b licence and want to get a bike

the insurance is soo expensive and i got a budget of 1.4k to downpayment

my friend told me some shops help u get the insurance for you

so my question is if they do ,do they add it into the cost of my bike and i jus down the 1.4k and pay monthly? or is it for brand new bikes?

[sporeknight]

Thankyou for sharing the info.

By the way, where did you change it at which shop. If the price is reasonable enough may be I can change it to 120/80-17 (possible is Dunlop. If not, 110/80-17) seem the 130/80-17 does not able to fix (base on your experience) reason is right now as my 100/80-17 (rear) when go on hump or with pillion during the turn angle will knock (somethime) at the rim (I think) even the pressure around 200 kpa.

 

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Erm bro. Yr rim knock is bcos yr pillion too heavy la. Nthing to do wif tyre rite? We chg tyre bcos it has bcom botak or the manufacture date is aft 4years (btw, since I seldom ride i hav use a japan tyre for 7years but at yr own risk). Or mayb u bank too low, tats y knock yr rim? If due to 2nd reason, wow yr skill mus b pretty gd. But if u bank too low, yr leg rest shld hit 1st ma? Rite? I exp b4.

 

But looking at yr specs, 100/80/17 for rear tyre, 100 seems too narrow la, I think. Tats y NT enugh rubber to protect. I hav alwys pump 225kpa for both front n rear. Mayb u try to pump higher pressure c HW. If problem still persist better chg yr tyre, if NT yr rim gone case.

[sporeknight]

hi guys i just passed my 2b licence and want to get a bike

the insurance is soo expensive and i got a budget of 1.4k to downpayment

my friend told me some shops help u get the insurance for you

so my question is if they do ,do they add it into the cost of my bike and i jus down the 1.4k and pay monthly? or is it for brand new bikes?

Erm bro. U only hav 1.4k. New rider n instalment bike require u buy comprehensive insur, ez at least 1k+. Y nt u buy str8 Fr direct owner, then u can buy 3rd party Insur which is more cheaper. But of course, str8 Fr owner u hav to pay abt 2.5k at least? If take loan, Instalment interest rate is 4% arnd there rite? U mus weigh all the factors. If get instalment from shop, 1.4k mayb only slightly more than enough to buy insur n road tax n Carpark. U hav to take full loan Liao. If a bike cost 3-4k from shop, u ez pay arnd 200$ MORE per year dep HW many years of loan u take. If I were u, I work 3-6 mths more then get a bike Fr direct owner. U save much more.

 

A 2nd hand bike most likely gt some prob pop up here there too. U may ND to standby Xtra $ for maint. Don look at fixed expenses of a bike. Look at the hidden costs. Think abt it.

[FireGunz]

Erm bro. Yr rim knock is bcos yr pillion too heavy la. Nthing to do wif tyre rite? We chg tyre bcos it has bcom botak or the manufacture date is aft 4years (btw, since I seldom ride i hav use a japan tyre for 7years but at yr own risk). Or mayb u bank too low, tats y knock yr rim? If due to 2nd reason, wow yr skill mus b pretty gd. But if u bank too low, yr leg rest shld hit 1st ma? Rite? I exp b4.

 

But looking at yr specs, 100/80/17 for rear tyre, 100 seems too narrow la, I think. Tats y NT enugh rubber to protect. I hav alwys pump 225kpa for both front n rear. Mayb u try to pump higher pressure c HW. If problem still persist better chg yr tyre, if NT yr rim gone case.

 

Hi bro, so the rear tyre 100/80-17 can pump until 225kpa? (Just wondering will it blow? Seem it a narrow tyre 100/80-17) as I thought the max is "210kpa" (sorry, I'm still new about bike stuff). By the way, can share the info where (shop location) did you change the tyre (If unable to post here, then pm me). if my problem still persist may be might consider change it before the rim gone off.

 

Thank.

 

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[sporeknight]

Hi bro, so the rear tyre 100/80-17 can pump until 225kpa? (Just wondering will it blow? Seem it a narrow tyre 100/80-17) as I thought the max is "210kpa" (sorry, I'm still new about bike stuff). By the way, can share the info where (shop location) did you change the tyre (If unable to post here, then pm me). if my problem still persist may be might consider change it before the rim gone off.

 

Thank.

 

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Hav PM u the shop locatn. Jus curios asking, wat tyre brand u using now? How much u bought it? Do u hit yr leg rest when u bank? Was wondering how u hit yr rim. Looking at yr tyre side view is yr rim fully protected by the rubber?

Since orig specs is 120/80/17R, u buy a Tyre abt 20% " narrower" not advisable. Anything best is 10% margin.

[Heathx]

Tyre please don't anyhow pump pressure, it affects handling and also safety. Most SP riders use 110 or 120 width tyres. Personally i prefer 120/70 BT090 for rear, and sticking to BT39SS for front. It's safe to pump 205 front and 235 rear with that configuration, although manual says 180 front and back. A range between 180 - 220(front) and 245(rear) is generally acceptable for SP. Just don't go and pump 290 all those. That is for big bike tyres.

 

I think FireGunz issue is more of soft rear shocks than tyre though. It's really really really hard to bua the rims if it's a tyre issue. Even with 180kpa, the tyres won't compress until rim is hit, while pillioning. Most likely is your shock soft liao, so the bump cause the suspension to be compressed fully and then some more, this will make it feel as if it's your rim tio bua. It can be dangerous especially while cornering. I have fractured 2 fingers to learn this lesson.

 

As for shops, there's a lot of places you can get tyres from. Want cheap, get from LAB then fix yourself. But be careful he clear stock. If don't trust his tyres, then can always go to those shops with high traffic, like Planet or Bikeworkz for example. Those kind of shops, the tyres come and go very fast, so sure is 'fresh' stock.

 

As for durango8 question, some shops allow you to buy 3rd party insurance while on installment. I previously did so at Heng Motor, not sure if they have changed the rules. But it was really really expensive. Getting insurance yourself and getting bike from direct owner will be a lot cheaper. But it also means you must somehow get the money first, cos direct owner don't do installment plan. And getting reloan from shop will prolly mean getting insurance and paperwork done with them anyways, so back to square 1.

 

When you buy a bike from shop, whether is brand new, or 2nd hand, the cost is always machine price (after depreciation for 2nd hand) + remaining CoE + road tax + insurance + inspection (if needed) + admin fee. Depending on shop, they may 'waive' some of the costs away, like some shops will say they give you road tax free, or road tax + inspection fee 'waived'. But end up will still be more expensive overall than getting from direct owner, cos shops have to earn profit also. In short, shops save you the hassle of doing paperwork yourself for a fee.

[Heathx]

Was reading the previous few pages of posts and saw some commonly asked questions.

 

Handlebar feels loose/wobbly? - Most likely is steering cone loose. $100+ to replace the steering cone and bearings.

 

What 2T to use? - When running in after new piston or block change, Mineral Oil 2T is best. But after run in period has completed, you can either use good Castor based 2T, or fully synthetic 2T with Ester. Some people say Castor based smoother, but my experience is that with Castor based, you need to go at high rpm regularly (7-8k), otherwise the carbon build up in your pipe and engine components is significant. My preference is Fully Synthetic with Ester, like Motul 800, which i buy from iRide on facebook. (i tend to sayang my bike quite a bit)

 

How much 2T to use? - I bought my bike without the 2T pump and reservoir, so i premix my 2T, meaning i pour my 2T directly into the tank while pumping petrol. Usually for normal commuting, i pour abour 18-20ml per litre. For track, i'll pour 25ml per litre. BUT, you have to take into account that i use 'premium' 2T like Motul 800, and not those $10 per bottle kind. So you may have to add just a bit more if you use that kind, maybe 2ml more per litre.

 

Why so smoky? - 2T. The grade of 2T matters. High end 2T will be less smoky. Cheap 2T will be more smoky. I ever kena NEA letter before, as well as block pitting (small holes in block which can lead to piston seize) Since then, i always used high end 2T. Cheaper than fines and overhauls in my opinion, and engine wear and tear is less.

[FireGunz]

Hav PM u the shop locatn. Jus curios asking, wat tyre brand u using now? How much u bought it? Do u hit yr leg rest when u bank? Was wondering how u hit yr rim. Looking at yr tyre side view is yr rim fully protected by the rubber?

Since orig specs is 120/80/17R, u buy a Tyre abt 20% " narrower" not advisable. Anything best is 10% margin.

 

Hi sporeknight, about that brand for rear tyre. I'm not very sure as I just bought (the bike) it from direct owner no long ago... recently just notice it that go on hump (without pillion at slow speed 25km/h around in Gear 2) can feel the "knock" sound or with pillion cornering (slow speed @ car park corner) sometime can feel the "bua" sound. as about the cornering band whether hit the "leg rest" part? (may be you are right about that I think will check it again). So at 1st, I was thinking could be my size is big around 100kg. 2nd as the rear tyre is small then original specs should be at (F) 90/80-17, ® 120/80-17 or 130/80-17 (base on some website) or even 110/70 (mostly in SG using it for SP) which is why not very sure about the pump pressure for tyre (what is the max pump).

Edited May 26, 2015 by FireGunz

[FireGunz]

Tyre please don't anyhow pump pressure, it affects handling and also safety. Most SP riders use 110 or 120 width tyres. Personally i prefer 120/70 BT090 for rear, and sticking to BT39SS for front. It's safe to pump 205 front and 235 rear with that configuration, although manual says 180 front and back. A range between 180 - 220(front) and 245(rear) is generally acceptable for SP. Just don't go and pump 290 all those. That is for big bike tyres.

 

I think FireGunz issue is more of soft rear shocks than tyre though. It's really really really hard to bua the rims if it's a tyre issue. Even with 180kpa, the tyres won't compress until rim is hit, while pillioning. Most likely is your shock soft liao, so the bump cause the suspension to be compressed fully and then some more, this will make it feel as if it's your rim tio bua. It can be dangerous especially while cornering. I have fractured 2 fingers to learn this lesson.

 

As for shops, there's a lot of places you can get tyres from. Want cheap, get from LAB then fix yourself. But be careful he clear stock. If don't trust his tyres, then can always go to those shops with high traffic, like Planet or Bikeworkz for example. Those kind of shops, the tyres come and go very fast, so sure is 'fresh' stock.

 

Hi Heathx, thank the tip & info.

it could be the occur (like you say about suspension) either the weight (my size) heavy or the suspension too old. as I had (sit & bound) try it & don't feel the the spring much on the back. so should I pump the the font (Dunlop 90/80/-17) & rear (not sure brand 100/80-17) tyre all at 225Kpa or just the rear tyre will do (as right now the font & rear is 205kpa) and see still persist? if yes, then change the rear to 120/80-17 & see still persist again? the final is change the suspension (by the way, what is the cost for the suspension).

[FireGunz]

Was reading the previous few pages of posts and saw some commonly asked questions.

 

Handlebar feels loose/wobbly? - Most likely is steering cone loose. $100+ to replace the steering cone and bearings.

 

What 2T to use? - When running in after new piston or block change, Mineral Oil 2T is best. But after run in period has completed, you can either use good Castor based 2T, or fully synthetic 2T with Ester. Some people say Castor based smoother, but my experience is that with Castor based, you need to go at high rpm regularly (7-8k), otherwise the carbon build up in your pipe and engine components is significant. My preference is Fully Synthetic with Ester, like Motul 800, which i buy from iRide on facebook. (i tend to sayang my bike quite a bit)

 

How much 2T to use? - I bought my bike without the 2T pump and reservoir, so i premix my 2T, meaning i pour my 2T directly into the tank while pumping petrol. Usually for normal commuting, i pour abour 18-20ml per litre. For track, i'll pour 25ml per litre. BUT, you have to take into account that i use 'premium' 2T like Motul 800, and not those $10 per bottle kind. So you may have to add just a bit more if you use that kind, maybe 2ml more per litre.

 

Why so smoky? - 2T. The grade of 2T matters. High end 2T will be less smoky. Cheap 2T will be more smoky. I ever kena NEA letter before, as well as block pitting (small holes in block which can lead to piston seize) Since then, i always used high end 2T. Cheaper than fines and overhauls in my opinion, and engine wear and tear is less.

 

thank bro for sharing the info about 2T...

[sporeknight]

Hi sporeknight, about that brand for rear tyre. I'm not very sure as I just bought (the bike) it from direct owner no long ago... recently just notice it that go on hump (without pillion at slow speed 25km/h around in Gear 2) can feel the "knock" sound or with pillion cornering (slow speed @ car park corner) sometime can feel the "bua" sound. as about the cornering band whether hit the "leg rest" part? (may be you are right about that I think will check it again). So at 1st, I was thinking could be my size is big around 100kg. 2nd as the rear tyre is small then original specs should be at (F) 90/80-17, ® 120/80-17 or 130/80-17 (base on some website) or even 110/70 (mostly in SG using it for SP) which is why not very sure about the pump pressure for tyre (what is the max pump).

Bro, most likely is yr rear tyre got rubbed against the bottom of the seat area. S u r quite heavy (no offence pls), it is inevitable. Try to bounce on yr rider seat n ask yr fren to look at yr suspension, c hw gap left in bet. NT sure HW much is a new suspension, but it may most likely due to yr weight.

 

When u take corner u feel the bua sound, is it Fr the foot rest? Or under yr seat? It shld NT b Fr yr rim la. U can feel it on yr leg if Fr foot rest. U will feel from yr backside if Fr the rear tyre (suspension). Try to find the real cost, then c if really ND to chg tyre or suspension. So far SP the red suspension at centre of bike is jus a spring rite? NT the hydraulic type rite? If hydraulic may ND to top up oil or chg oil.

 

Another thing take note is try use lower profile tyre - 120/70 or 110/70 rather than 80. Def help prev bua bkside.

[Heathx]

Most likely then, the issue is your suspension soft and cause your tyres to rub against your bike bottom when it compressed, like what sporeknight said. From memory, i think SP max laden weight is about 160 or 180kg.

 

Suspension, there are a few choices. New stock suspension is about 450-500+. I heard can use a KRR150 shock, but must fit upside down. There are also other choices like YSS. Don't get Combiz though. The $100+ model broke for me, and i'm 65kg. Go for a 120/70 tyre for rear if you can as well.

[sporeknight]

Most likely then, the issue is your suspension soft and cause your tyres to rub against your bike bottom when it compressed, like what sporeknight said. From memory, i think SP max laden weight is about 160 or 180kg.

 

Suspension, there are a few choices. New stock suspension is about 450-500+. I heard can use a KRR150 shock, but must fit upside down. There are also other choices like YSS. Don't get Combiz though. The $100+ model broke for me, and i'm 65kg. Go for a 120/70 tyre for rear if you can as well.

If really suspension prob, try ask arnd diff shops for 2nd hand one la. 4-500$ for a new one seem too x. I think 200$ is more reasonable, but of course mus b lasting la. Can search internet too. N HW long yr bike COE finish or HW long u intend kp tis bike is also a factor.

[FireGunz]

Most likely then, the issue is your suspension soft and cause your tyres to rub against your bike bottom when it compressed, like what sporeknight said. From memory, i think SP max laden weight is about 160 or 180kg.

 

Suspension, there are a few choices. New stock suspension is about 450-500+. I heard can use a KRR150 shock, but must fit upside down. There are also other choices like YSS. Don't get Combiz though. The $100+ model broke for me, and i'm 65kg. Go for a 120/70 tyre for rear if you can as well.

 

thank bro for the tip, about the tyre for 120/70 the price seem expensive abit then 110/70......

as for the suspension looking around....

[FireGunz]

If really suspension prob, try ask arnd diff shops for 2nd hand one la. 4-500$ for a new one seem too x. I think 200$ is more reasonable, but of course mus b lasting la. Can search internet too. N HW long yr bike COE finish or HW long u intend kp tis bike is also a factor.

 

hi bro, thank for the advise... i also agree with you about suspension cost too... as the bike COE still left 5 more year. how long intend to keep the bike? well... maybe 2-3 year (i think) as next year going for the 2A. Thinking go for the tyre 1st change to 110/70 (seem the 120/70 is expensive)....

[sporeknight]

hi bro, thank for the advise... i also agree with you about suspension cost too... as the bike COE still left 5 more year. how long intend to keep the bike? well... maybe 2-3 year (i think) as next year going for the 2A. Thinking go for the tyre 1st change to 110/70 (seem the 120/70 is expensive)....

But NW the prob is wif the suspension, y u wan to chg tyre? Isit gg to b botak or cming 4yr Fr manuf date? If nt, wat for chg? Assume u go for 2A on mar16, pass on Jun, u only use tyre for 1yr. Assume u 1 yr later chg to 2A bike, u only use for 2yr, nt economical. If gg botak, I knw unique motor at toh guan sell 2nd hand tyres abt 30$? I bought for my front b4. Mayb u can chk it out....But looking at yr weight if u pass 2A, u will most likely giv up SP s it can't cope wif yr size ( no offence). NT much power. But Still up to u. Think carefully.

[FireGunz]

But NW the prob is wif the suspension, y u wan to chg tyre? Isit gg to b botak or cming 4yr Fr manuf date? If nt, wat for chg? Assume u go for 2A on mar16, pass on Jun, u only use tyre for 1yr. Assume u 1 yr later chg to 2A bike, u only use for 2yr, nt economical. If gg botak, I knw unique motor at toh guan sell 2nd hand tyres abt 30$? I bought for my front b4. Mayb u can chk it out....But looking at yr weight if u pass 2A, u will most likely giv up SP s it can't cope wif yr size ( no offence). NT much power. But Still up to u. Think carefully.

 

Thank bro.

That true, I'll take your advice.

 

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