[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[driftbaker]

i went to the workshop todae. i asked the mechanic help me tune. he said the clip thread at slot #2 wear off liao, so helped me set at #3. dun think he got adjust the pilot screw.. but i dun dare to.

 

anyway, i got change the following:

1) chain + sprocket set $140

2) Air filter $20

3) 4T Moto 4 Plus Sae-20W-50 $12

4) Oil filter $7

 

wanna ask u guys, are the prices reasonable?? anyway, the engine oil the mechanic helped me use issit fully syn or semi? which one should we use?

 

I have not pumped petrol yet, wad kinda petrol shd i pump? this is my very first bike, n i dun even know how to pump petrol!!! haha..

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[Sorrie4u]

hi guys from roadwin...i wanna buy a roadwin but wanna sell my rs125 2005 version 1st...anyone here wan an exchange? my rs125 8years coe left...showroom condition mileage onli 5k plus...bike total stock...onli sprocket change to light alloy (red) and using Mfizz X ring chain... tyres original still got 90% left...engine condition i can say it is still 10/10 never whack much the bike...jus normal use...selling at 6k cash or exchange with roadwin and top up from u...pls pm mi if interested...badly wan a roadwin for army use...thanks!!!

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[Sorrie4u]

yea i noe but i wan it for army...cuz i wan a 4stroke bike big size enough...sp and kr all too small for mi...i dun like...n 4stroke bike easy maintain and RW125 can put box oso quite nice...tyres big oso...and can put 1 weeks plus oso no problem wont fear valve stuck n all that...rs125 i scared i go BMT come out then everything stuck then i jia lat...my bike now less than 6k mileage v new...anyone wan exchange? pls tell mi asap...need a deal b4 march 13th!!!

[johnnykato]

why dont u sell ur rs at shops? im selling mine, but not willing to trade in with rs125.. sorry.

[driftbaker]

1) chain+sprocket, there r cheap china brands if don't want branded stuff like DID or RK brands.

 

2) air-filter, there r no alternative. only available at cka.

 

3) it is semi-syn eo. next oil change maybe u should try 100% full syn from motul, fuchs, maxima, rp, etc, it's more expensive (castrol not recommended).

DIY oil change or bring oil to cka n ask them to change it for u, there will be a service charge.

 

4) oil-filter, there r no alternative. only available at cka.

 

for fuel pump shell95, avoid shell 92 or ron 92 grade (not recommended).

pump fuel grade according to engine compression ratio.

engine compression ratio = fuel grade.

10~12:1 = ron 95 (rw compression ratio is 10.7:1)

>12:1 = ron 98 n above

 

u might ask, wat is ron?

fuel is graded as pon (pump octane number), ron (research octane number) and mon (motor octane number).

these r grade tat prevent pre-detonation, pinging or knocking.

i have pump shell92 and i can felt pinging effects, hence don't encourage using ron 92 or equivalents.

 

USA r using pon grades and we (rest of the world) r using ron grades.

ron 92 = pon 87

ron 95 = pon 89

ron 98 n above = pon 92 n above.

 

Petrol's octane rating is a measurement of the fuel's ability to resist engine knocking. Knock occurs when the fuel-air mix in the cylinder explodes instead of burning in a controlled way. This shockwave moves within the combustion chamber, and creates a metallic 'pinging' sound.

 

An octane rating is often referred to as an 'anti-knock index'. If fuel has a high octane number, it will have a higher resistance to engine knocking.

 

extracts from web:

 

Octane Numbers

 

Usually, there are three different octane numbers associated with all petrols. Petrol's Research Octane Number (RON) is measured under simple test conditions. Petrol's Motor Octane Number (MON) is measured under tougher test conditions and at higher engine speed and temperature.

 

The average of these two values is what becomes related closer to actual driving conditions. This value is known as the Road Octane Number, and is what should be used in filling stations.

 

Occasionally, some filling stations will confuse these different octane numbers in a bid to embellish on their octane rating claims, and advertise their fuel's Research Octane Number, which is higher than the Road Octane Number. In many European countries, the Research Octane Number is advertised on pumps, so a much higher octane value is common when travelling in certain countries.

 

thanks alot for the info!! after my this servicing, i experienced some probs..

 

1) from neutral, i cannot kick down to gear one until i pushed my bike slightly forward. also, i find it harder to get neutral.

 

2) i experience alot of vibrations at the front area, including the tank. the tank has a plastic cover rite? it seems very shaky..

 

3) i can only cover top speed of 80km/hr. how can i check whats wrong?

 

by the way, any kind soul can teach me how to pump petrol?? hehe

[driftbaker]

anyone go jb pump petrol? think i gonna get my first pump in sg.. subsequently go jb pump liao. haha

 

anyway, i just lost my job. anyone got good part time lobang?? hehe

[raden]

anyone go jb pump petrol? think i gonna get my first pump in sg.. subsequently go jb pump liao. haha

 

 

hi bro...if u wanna go jb to pump petrol, yes can provided u stay around woodlands...if not then i rather pump in SG only...

 

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[johnnykato]

driftbaker.. if u wanna go jb pump petrol.. tag me along. im looking for kaki as well haha.

[driftbaker]

driftbaker.. if u wanna go jb pump petrol.. tag me along. im looking for kaki as well haha.

 

haha. sure thing man. i still got ur number, will drop u a sms.. hehe. but first pump i gonna pump in singapore first la..

 

bro.. if u sell ur bike liao.. then i no more kaki liao..

[driftbaker]

 

check the accelerator cam cable adjustment.

rw can do 110kph without any problems.

throttle cable is split into two cables at the carb.

one is connected directly to the throttle valve from the top of the carb (without adjustment).

the other is connected to the accelerator cam with adjustment screw, this is the only adjustment u can do.

when u turn the throttle, u can see the cam lifted up.

turn the throttle to full n try to lift the cam with your finger.

check whether it can be lifted up further.

if can't be lifted, loosen the lock nut n turn the screw down to give more play (about

if can lift with a lot of play, loosen lock nut n turn up the screw, adjust it until with

don't understand wat i'm saying, go back to cka n ask them for help.

 

add-on note:

there is also a possibility tat the jet-needle's eclip is not properly clipped-on the needle.

 

 

just do it - nike.

 

i tried wad u said.. i saw the cam moving up n down. at max opening of throttle, i cannot lift the cam any further. but i did not manage to find the lock nut or screw..

 

"there is also a possibility tat the jet-needle's eclip is not properly clipped-on the needle."

--> how do i check for that??

 

 

 

i did 90km/hr with fifth gear at around 7 to 8k rpm.. never go further already. But i was pillioning....will it affect???

i asked the mechanic about the vibration and he told me that my clutch pad is wearing off. is that true???

 

 

 

i want to DIY maintenance on my roadwin...what tools do i need to buy??? example what spanner number is needed for roadwin's nuts...

 

 

thanks a lot for your attention!!!

[driftbaker]

just wondering.. anyone got spare p plate?? hehe

[driftbaker]

when at standstill the gear become very stiff and almost impossible to engage neutral. i need to roll the bike a bit forward to engage the neutral. Or otherwise i off the engine and then kick into neutral effortlessly.

 

anyone got experience this before??

 

 

"If you use spray-on lubes, be sure to spray onto a warm chain. Do not over saturate. Spray it on the inside of the chain. That way on your next ride it will be slung outwards, through the chain. Lube the chain every several hundred miles or when it looks dry. If you are going to use an aerosol chain lube, consider using PJ1 in the blue label.

 

 

For O-ring chains, bring the bike home hot and throw it up on the centerstand in neutral. Then spray PJ1 Blue Label chain lube directly at the center of the rollers at the rear of the rear sprocket. Move the rear wheel slowly and continue to apply until the entire chain has been coated. Then park the bike for the night and let it dry. In the morning the rollers are all nicely lubricated and the bike is ready to ride off. Be sure to wipe off any excess before you ride and then after you come back after the first ride. The lubing of an O-ring chain is mostly for the sprocket's life as the lube for the chain pins is sealed inside the chain by the O-rings. "

 

wad does "Spray it on the inside of the chain" and "directly at the center of the rollers at the rear of the rear sprocket" mean??

 

i bought Putoline GP1 ChainJelly to lube.. but i dunno how to lube.. haha. is it suitable for our stock chain n sprocket? cos i read somewhere in sbf tat using wrong lube can spoil O-ring.. wad is O-ring?

 

 

oso ah.. my exhaust is rather rusty liao.. wad can i do abt it?? i intend to spray it black.. can it prevent the rust from spreading?

[johnnykato]

u want to spray black for ur exhaust?? wah. dunno can or not. muffler would in hot temperature ley.. hmm. try using autosol first.. do it regularly.. one polish is not enough to remove the rust.

[driftbaker]

u want to spray black for ur exhaust?? wah. dunno can or not. muffler would in hot temperature ley.. hmm. try using autosol first.. do it regularly.. one polish is not enough to remove the rust.

 

u using autosol? wads the correct method?? issit just squeeze it out on cloth, then rub it on the exhaust can already??

 

i found out from this site autosol seems to work better if the metal is warm/hot? anyone know if it's true??

 

http://www.visordown.com/forum/forummessages.asp?UTN=22260&v=2

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[driftbaker]

 

 

u can check the pad by look as it's side n u will see a metal/compound.

there is a cut groove on the compound side facing rotor if the groove is still there means pads is still ok. no groove means replacement.

 

 

 

 

not the brake pad. the clutch pad.. he said in chinese "clutch pi2" so i directly translate. haha.

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[driftbaker]

just spray on top of bottom chain.

 

 

look at the side of the chain, between the side plates, u can see a rubber thing.

the rubber thing is an 'o' ring, 'o' ring is a seal to contain the grease inside the rollers.

nowadays there r many type of seals like 'x' or 'w' rings, these can be found for higher performances bikes.

 

i found this picture off the net.

http://i29.tinypic.com/1z169nr.jpg

 

where is the rubber thing? sorry.. i really have no idea..

 

the new chain i got is stock one (according to the mech), so is it o-ring? if so, will my lube cause any adverse effect on it? anyway, since i just got it, shd i spray a layer of lube first?? i read somewhere in sbf tat the procedure is to ride it ard until the chain warm up, then spray, the leave it overnight. is it correct?

 

weekly manintenance to prevent rust, spray all plastic/metal/chrome parts with wd40 n wipe with cotton cloth.

rain/wet, don't let water droplets to dry on bike.

just wipe it to prevent further progressive corrosions.

 

but i already got rust, do i need to get rid of it first? or i just use directly? wad abt autosol??

 

by the way, where can i buy WD40?? hehe..

 

thanks alot for the answers!!!!

[driftbaker]

sorry, i mis-read. read too fast, thought brake pad.

clutch plate, seldom heard clutch pad. hehehe

only way to check is dismantle clutch assy n inspect.

 

hehe.. its ok.. haha.. i used wrong term den misunderstanding.. hehe paiseh paiseh

 

todae when i appraoching red light, i was at 5th gear then i braked... then slowly kicked down gear. but huge problem!!! i kicked down once then cannot kick down liao!!! then i panicked!!! kick up n down, stll cannot get 1st gear. suddenly, bike went into neutral. but still cannot kick down. i tried everything!!! lights turn green but i stil there.. obstruct traffic.. finally can kick to first gear then i quickly zoomed off... sibei malu.. haha..

 

wad maybe the causes for this problem?? i starting to believe the mech my clutch plate is wearing out.. but i already spent so much.. dun feel like spending another amt to inspect the clutch assy. hehe.. but most imptly, is it a sign tat my clutch plate really wearing out?

[stsoh]

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Edited July 6, 2010 by stsoh

[driftbaker]

not sure, initially when i first got the bike was having difficulty getting neutral.

then was using full syn castrol R4 eo but decided to switch to other full syn eo.

first time used royal purple max-cycle 20w50 was surprise tat gearshift was super smooth n easily got neutral, later silkolene fuchs 15w50 4t also good.

tat y i encourage rw owners to try other brands.

don't understand y cka sell cheap oil at premium price, they should be more customers oriented.

 

haha. in tat case i try to monitor then see how. probably next oil change i change to silkolene fuchs 15w50. where can i get it? how much?

 

by the way, at wad mileage shd i do oil change/sparkplug/oil fiter?

 

can u help me with the previous qns regarding wd40 and autosol n rust as well? hehe.. thanks!