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Posted

anymore things can do, to help with the intake... cause i find it like very restrictive.. feel like covering the top opening and make a cut out on the side of the airbox, and use a hose to link the air from outside into the airbox... hmmmm

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Posted (edited)

do u know whether u r running lean or rich??

basically i check my spark plug to show me whether my engine is running lean or rich.

u can remove to air-filter n do a trial run, run without air-filter.

 

dun cut the rubber inlet duct, it can be easily remove.

press it out from the under side.

top-side is sealant to hold the cover n inlet duct together.

later on if u change ur mind, u can put it back.

 

without the inlet duct, there will be no seal btwn cover n air-filter.

u need to find rubber gasket to seal up gap btwn cover n filter.

 

i did all these b4, did not affect performance.

 

performance differences can be felt if u know how to tune the carb n know which sprocket ratio use to suit ur ride.

 

your restriction can be due to rider's weight,

for example if u weight 100 kgs compare to another whom weight 60 kgs.

it's time for a diet, trim down to 70 kgs.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

hmm ok...

 

btw, where to do front fork??

the front fork seems weak, and when sumtimes there vibration when i brake... like jerky feeling... and is con bearing expensive?

 

 

and which rear tyre size is ok for rw... think either down size to 130, or upsize to 150... 140 abit hard to find this size....

 

thx

Posted

Juz went down to CKa this evening, dey change a LED light for me for 5 bucks n did my servicing... Overall a good exp.. Hope this time round the tail light wont spoil so easily.

味ä¸éŽäº”,五味之變,ä¸å¯å‹å˜—也。

Posted
  lazykatak said:
hmm ok...

 

btw, where to do front fork??

the front fork seems weak, and when sumtimes there vibration when i brake... like jerky feeling... and is con bearing expensive?

 

 

and which rear tyre size is ok for rw... think either down size to 130, or upsize to 150... 140 abit hard to find this size....

 

thx

diy, added 3 (1mm thick, total thickness = 3mm) stainless steel washers on each leg of fork to increase spring load tension.

and also increase fork oil from manual stated 267cc to 300cc, this will stiffen n dampen the fork rebound motion.

 

i did at cka-hq, change fork oil n brake oil every two yrs as schedule maintenance.

 

braking depends on ur brake pads n disc, sometime the disc warp will cause unusual ripper effect.

 

tyre wise common in the market r 130/70, 140/70 n 150/60 or 150/70.

our oem 140/60 is abit unusual size, it's wall height is 140mm * 60% = 84mm.

when installing bigger tyre just lookout for any part touching the tyre like the hugger or chain.

 

tyre wall height:

130/70 = 130*70% = 91mm

140/70 = 140*70% = 98mm

150/60 = 150*60% = 90mm

 

our rw tyre rim is 4 inches wide, 150/60 can install but more suited for 4.5 inches rim.

currently i'm using 130/70 size, will like to see how 150/60 fit on rw.

Posted

Report:

 

Got my bike last night. Last night was awful as I was feeling the vibrations tremendously due to the fact that Roadwin is known to vibrate a lot, and I've not ridden a motorbike for a long time! Scare factor played a lot as I was quite tense. Drove to work today and it was much better, got to relax more and not get tense. Plus, on the PIE the vibes disappeared at around 5k+ rpm, at a speed of 80-90.

 

Must practice more...

Posted (edited)

cruise at 80~100kph is quite a smooth ride.

below 60kph, u can feels the vib.

above 100kph, feels the vib.

 

anyway the analog speedometer has got 10% reading error.

digital meter has 5% read error, this is unavoidable due to tyre wear over time of ride.

 

for example reading on analog speedometer:

60kph = 54kph (actual true speed)

70kph = 63kph (actual true speed)

80kph = 72kph (actual true speed)

90kph = 81kph (actual true speed)

100kph = 90kph (actual true speed)

110kph = 99kph (actual true speed)

120kph = 108kph max (actual true speed)

 

if u do 100+kph on expressway, u won't get speeding ticket.

i had run thru speed trap many times but dun blame me if u had one on normal road.

Edited by stsoh
Posted
  phantomintheair said:
Juz went down to CKa this evening, dey change a LED light for me for 5 bucks n did my servicing... Overall a good exp.. Hope this time round the tail light wont spoil so easily.

 

hey bro.. saw ur ride at alexandra before.. i really like ur color scheme and the racing stickers!! nice mod!! :D

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted
  stsoh said:
check this out, the new 2010 yamaha yz450f.

 

 

it makes more sense for the headers to come out directly from the rear of the cylinder to the back of the bike where the endcan is.. why didn't they think of it earlier? or are they bikes with this design on the road already? hehe :cheeky:

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

"Riding a slow bike fast is always more fun than riding a fast bike slow."

Posted (edited)

i believe there r many technical issues, not achieveable with past technologies.

in the past, i believe yamaha did came out with the same concept with tzr250 racer....if i'm not mistaken.

otherwise all of us will be riding rotary wankel engine, 200cc with output of 50hp.

 

4-stroker = two cycles, one power stroke.

2-stroker = one cycle, one power stroke.

rotary wankel = one cycle, three power strokes, tat's why it is very thirsty n hot.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wankel_engine

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fc/Wankel_Cycle_anim_en.gif

Edited by stsoh
Posted

I was travel at analog meter showing 90kph and my rpm was already at 7k plus near 8k... is that normal?.. cos alot of my fren riding other bike is not experiencing such high rpm at that kinda speed....

1st TP Attempt for Class 2B Failed on 11th June 2009 :cry:

2nd TP Attempt For Class 2B PASSED on 23rd JULY 2009!!!!!!!!! WOoOoOoOooo HoooOooooOOOOooo !!!

 

First Ride: Daelim Roadwin125 Dated: 25th July 2009 till 30th March 2011~

First Car: Hyundai Getz 1.6 Dated: 14th Feb 2011 till (It Become Scrap Metal):cry:

Posted

yes, it is normal for rw.....depends on the rear tyre n sprockets used.

 

for example:

stock tyre 140/60 n sprocket ratio 14t/42t,

speedo indicates 80kph@7k rpm,

speedo indicates 90kph@8k rpm,

speedo indicates 100kph@9k rpm,

speedo indicates 110kph@10k rpm.

 

if u change to difference rear tyre size n sprocket ratio,

your speed/rpm will differ slightly lower from stock setup.

 

other bikes have their own configurations to suit their design.

Posted (edited)

go to daelim agent HQ - cka

http://www.cka.com.sg/contactus.html

 

Singapore

 

Headquarters

 

79 Kaki Bukit Ave 1,

Shun Li Industrial Park

Singapore 417952

 

Tel: 6748 5455

Fax: 6748 3433

 

street directory:

http://www.streetdirectory.com/asia_travel/travel/travel_id_7960/travel_site_55277/

map is not accurate, it pointed on the main building.

it's on the first block 63-101, unit 79 near the bus stop.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

thanks stsoh for ur quick reply.. do u know da price of it (rear disc brake plate)? fyi, i live in jb. right now try to survey da price, think da price a bit expensive here n must travel to kl to buy it

Posted

My first problem. Engine dies everytime I step on to 1st gear. Engine starts normally, sounds fine, revs fine, but the moment I go to 1st gear it dies. Got petrol. Tried adjusting the clutch but still the same. I just came back from the office and everything was ok but 15 minutes later, when I'm going to go out again, it happens. What could be the problem?

Posted

it's a safety feature....your side-stand is down.

if your side-stand is down n u down-shift to first gear,

the safety-kill switch will switch-off your engine.

lift-up your side-stand b4 u down-shift your gear.

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