[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[hsk89]

alright!! thanks alot for the advice!! i will try it out! =)

[stsoh]

download rw owner's manual, read n try to understand it.

 

right clik, save link as,

http://www.dmc.co.kr/eng/pdf/owner_roadwin.PDF

 

maintenance schedule r in page 32 n 33, follow it.

on the top roll is mileages n months, whichever come first do the followings as listed below.

if u ride daily most likely is ur mileage will reach first, if seldom ride, mileage is much less then do the month period.

since ur bike is 2nd hand bike, u can follow every 4,000km schedule. otherwise if seldom ride do every six month.

upkeep maintenance will keep ur bike running happy, problem free n longevity (just like mine).

note:

as for air clean element (air filter), don't replace every 4,000km as listed (note2).

maybe clean it with compress air every 4,000km, then replace at every 20,000km.

brake fluid oil n fork oil change every two years.

fuel filter need not change every 4,000km, do inspection coz fuel sold here r very clean.

rw tank is plastic, so there is no rust to contaminate the fuel.

all machine needs maintenance, only a fool do not maintain his/her machine.

Edited May 26, 2011 by stsoh

[stsoh]

i tried to do a stoichiometric ratio calculation, did a google search come up with difference answers.

 

in theory.

 

My Daelim Roadwin 140.2cc 4-stroke engine.

 

0.1402L engine runs 100 kph @ 8000 rpm.

 

 

Example:

 

- 4-strokes engine fires once at every 2-cycle, half of 8000 rpm.

0.1402 x 4000 = 560.8 L/min. of total volume.

 

- Compression ratio of 10.4:1

560.8 / 10.4 = 53.923 L/min of vapor mixture at fire.

 

- Burn ratio of 14.7:1 (stoichiometric ratio)

53.923 / 14.7 = 3.6683 L/min of gasoline vapor.

 

- Expansion ratio of gasoline is 147.65:1

3.6683 / 147.65 = 0.02484 L/min of liquid gasoline to run at 8000 rpm.

 

- Convert litre/min to ml/sec:

0.02484 / (1000/60) = 0.00149 ml/sec.

 

Note:

If you are wondering about 147.65:1 -

1 mole of any vapor = a volume of 22.4L

mass of 1 mole of anything = its atomic number.

atomic number of gasoline 114. therefore 114g/22.4L

density of gasoline liquid = 0.75g/cm^3 = 0.75kg/L

Ratio of 147.65:1

 

 

 

 

================================================

 

 

 

 

in real life.

 

My Daelim Roadwin 140.2cc 4-stroke engine.

 

Average fuel consumption:

409.2 km / 14.72 litre = 27.8 km/l, runs constant speed of 100 kph @ 8,000 rpm (assuming use max).

409.2 km / 100 kph = 4.092hrs.

4.092 x 60 = 245.52 mins.

8,000 / 2 cycle = 4,000 intake/fire strokes.

4,000 x 245.52 = 982,080 strokes.

14.72 litre / 982,080 strokes = 0.00001499 litre or 0.01499 ml per intake stroke.

 

 

 

================================================

 

 

 

 

 

What is the stoichiometric ratio and lambda

– February 4, 2011

Posted in: Theory

 

In a nutshell the carburetor or fuel injectors work by mixing air and fuel in a ratio to provide optimum combustion/ energy to turn the wheels.

 

Back to the basics of fire, you need the following for a fire – heat, oxygen and fuel – take anyone of those away and the fire will die. So if we were to just put fuel into the engine and try to ignite it, nothing would happen. So the carburetors/ injectors let the engine draw in air and mix it with the fuel so that it can burn. So what is the ideal fuel air mixture?

Stoichiometric ratio

 

The stoichiometic ratio is the ideal mixture of fuel to air measured in mass of each substance and relates to octane/hydrocarbon based fuels, stoichiometrically this is the ideal mix in which there is just enough air present in order to burn off all of the fuel, although it’s never 100% achieved. The typical stoichiometic mixture ratio a carburetor (or fuel injection) has to achieve when mixing fuel and air is 14.7 of air mass to 1 of fuel mass – 14.7 : 1. So if you have 100 grammes of fuel, you then need 1.47 kilos (1,470 grammes) of air – given that air weighs practically nothing, this is a lot of air needed to reach the ideal combustion point in our engine. If the stoichiometric mixture is lower then this means the engine will be running fuel rich which means fuel is wasted and harmful engine emissions will be higher – you’re taking away oxygen for the fuel to burn. If the stoichiometic ratio is higher then this means that the engine will be running lean and will struggle to give a smoother running performance and will generally struggle to maintain combustion – you’re taking away the fuel for the fire to burn.

 

 

 

Why is Stoichiometry important?

 

Stoichiometry is important as with it we can not only get the most efficient use of fuel but also the most power from the fuel, that means we go faster for longer! Stoichiometry is why we fiddle with carburetor settings or get the ECU remapped on our motorbikes – it’s also the reason why we have lambda sensors which feedback to the engine to let it know how much air is left or rather how much fuel is unburnt in the exhaust gases (there should be no oxygen). So in fuel injection bikes when the engine cuts out or runs poorly or there is excessive smoke it could mean the first place to check is the lambda sensor as the bike may not be getting the correct information back to the ECU to inform it on how to mix the petrol and air. Also it could mean that your injectors or fuel filters are blocked again effecting the lambda sensor. So we need to know this so that we can then understand how carburetors work and the principles of how fuel injection works.

How does lambda (?) relate to stoichiometry?

 

Lambda can mean a lot of things but in this instance it is the oxygen sensor in a vehicle used to measure the stoichiometric point. A lambda rating of 1.0 is perfect, less is running rich, more than 1.0 is running lean. Lambda is calculated as follows:

 

? = Detected AFR / Stoichiometric AFR

 

Where the detected AFR is the actual Air Fuel Ratio calculated as air mass divided by fuel mass by analysing the exhaust gases and this is then divided by the stoichiometric Air to Fuel Ratio for any given fuel (14.7 for petrol).

So what is the use of knowing lambda/stoichiometry?

 

In short, better performance for your motorcycle. When tuning carburetors or fuel injection, not only are you trying to get as much fuel and air into the engine as possible but as near to the perfect ratio as possible. Of course as you go faster or slower the flow of air to the engine will change so that’s why you have several jets in a carburetor and all those settings on the ECU, to ensure that no matter what speed the engine is running at and no matter what the air flow is, the AFR should be as near to perfect as possible.

 

When you change your airbox for pod air filters for instance, you alter the airflow which is why you need to remap the ECU or rejet the carbs as it begins to suck too much air in, altering lambda. If you significantly change altitude and the air is thinner then you need to adjust as there will be a lower mass of air.

 

Without this principle your engine simply would not run!

Edited June 16, 2011 by stsoh

[fuds]

I use RP eo for 2 month already... at first the bike feels nice then after awhile, my bike seems to vibrate more.. it could be because of my front spoket which i change together with my eo.

 

can i check what eo is it that sells at mustafa? and there's only one type of oil filter oni that we can use for vj125?

[fuds]

now i got original spoket and a jb changed front spoket.. i suspect my bike is vibrating cause of the spoket...

 

and thinking of chaning chex 9000 for my next eo change

[stsoh]

mustafa, top 4th floor, car accessoies display n sell maxima eo.

tried Maxima’s Maxum4 Synthetic Blend 20w-50, dont like it.

still prefer rp max-cycle 20w-50 engine oil.

 

sprocket ratio (sr) = rear sprocket divide front sprocket.

stock sr can pull up pass 10k rpm but vibrate a lot at top speed.

eg,

sr=42t/14t=3.0 (stock, its the same as 45t/15t=3.0)

sr=44t/15t=2.9 (i'm currently using this sr)

sr=42t/15t=2.8 (reduce vib)

sr=40t/15t=2.6667 (lesser vib than above sr but slack pickup, increase top speed going down slope).

rw lacking horsepower, engine rev will top at 9~9.2k rpm @ 110kph on level flat road.

but can reach top speed of 130kph going down hill/slope, up hill/slope will reduce to 90kph.

[fuds]

thanks uncle soh! really help alot there!

[stsoh]

use the correct engine oil for the type of engine tat the oil is design for.

 

for example;

use motorcycle engine oil for motorcycle, use automotive oil for car.

dont use automotive (car) engine oil becoz it is cheaper.

 

this illustrate how good royal purple engine oil is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EC2snrIAU2w

[fuds]

woah woah! impress by the video! but there's 2 type of rp maxcycle... 20w-50, 40 and 30.. whats the different? im using 20w-50 now ...

[stsoh]

API multi-grade 20w-50,40,30.....r viscosity indexes.

the last two digits indicates its viscosity (flow resistant) at operating temperature.

'50' is the thickest flow resistant of oil at operating temperature (>100 deg C).

do not use '60', there r some in the market. it is too thick as it might coz stresses to internal moving parts.

'50' is the most suitable for air/oil cool engine.

'40' is for water-cool engine.

'30' is for those cold countries where there r snow or ambient temp below 15 deg C.

 

as for 'W' in the first two digits, it means 'Winter'.

'20W' at sub zero temperature, its viscosity is at '20'.

there 5W, 10W in the market, it indicate lower sub-zeros.

eg,

20W, viscosity '20' at sub-zero (-0) deg C.

10W, viscosity '10' at -10 deg C.

5W, viscosity '5' at -20 deg C.

something like tat, u can check the actual figures with API or oil manufacturers.

 

in sillypore hot climate, we dont have to worry about the first two digits 'W' (its for snow countries).

we only wants the viscosity of the last two digits.

Edited July 7, 2011 by stsoh

[fuds]

anyone knows the price of rw battery?? i rode my bike and park at psb, 1hr later, came back cannot start properly :x sian lehhhh!! lights on speedo very weak, signal light and front light also weak... ;/

[stsoh]

alternative u can push start ur bike.

if u have those cheap 12volt 1amp battery charger, charge it first than do push start.

 

buy yuasa battery 12v 10ah MF (maintenance free), i think it's better than oem.

ur battery is not charging, tat could means ur stator coil is burnt.

let cka check whether the coil is burnt or not.

battery life suppose to be two to three yrs, manual recommend change it every two yrs.

bad battery can overload stator coil n cause it to burnt.

[fuds]

yea i change to yuasa 1210ah MF... then they check my voltmeter and it was 12.5 even after trottling hard.. so they suspect that either my rectifyer spoil or the coil... i didnt let them check cause i had to go to class ... what do you suggest uncle soh?

[stsoh]

tats good, voltage across battery should be 12.1~12.9 volts when throttle up.

its charging the battery, stator coil is OK, if below 12 volts then the battery wont be able to charge up.

new battery should be all rite n running fine.

shouldnt be any problem with voltage rectifier/regulator, still have problem then let cka check.

 

rectifier/regulator is still not transistorize or advance in terms of electronic.

it uses simple old technology whereby negative charge n excessive current is discharge n dissipate as heat.

tats the reason for large cooling fins on it.

Edited July 12, 2011 by stsoh

[fuds]

so basically the stator no need to change but the rectifier might have problem? so i would just need to change the rectifier?

[stsoh]

when throttle up the engine, voltmeter shows 12.5v, it mean stator coil n rectifier/regulator r working.

let it be for a few days n see whether ur bike still have any electric problem.

sometimes a minor wire crossed or positive bare wire touch/connect the ground (frame) can cause electrical shock tat can drain the battery.

past experience i had on other old bike, signal bulb socket terminal leads twisted n wires were crossed each other created electrical shock n it was difficult to troubleshoot.

[fuds]

Yesterday after parking my bike, 1hr later i stasrt it, cannot start... haha! run start also cannot.. i had to call for tow. Then today mech tried changing the rectifier, can start for awhile then die off.. then cannot start back. So i ask to change the rectifier and magnectic coil ... Money fly fast this month... anyway i got to think that my bike is 2nd hand.. god konws when the previous owener change his rectifier and manectic coil.. so it was a good investment..

 

sadly couldnt fetch my girlfriend to go out...unlucky...

[fuds]

Yesterday after parking my bike, 1hr later i stasrt it, cannot start... haha! run start also cannot.. i had to call for tow. Then today mech tried changing the rectifier, can start for awhile then die off.. then cannot start back. So i ask to change the rectifier and magnectic coil ... Money fly fast this month... anyway i got to think that my bike is 2nd hand.. god konws when the previous owener change his rectifier and manectic coil.. so it was a good investment..

 

sadly couldnt fetch my girlfriend to go out...unlucky...

[102611M]

Hey guys! Im very interested in this bike as my first bike but i have a few questions, hope ya'll dont mind me asking alot.

 

1) Why is there a 125cc and 150cc version?

2) Is it called X5 or VJ125?

3) Hows the pickup of the bike? Im more interested in the pickup than the top speed

4) Is it possible to change sproket ratio to increase the pick up? will if affect anything?

5) Does stock come with bellypan/chin?

6) Anyone tried fitting shroud on it like S4?

 

ps: my usage for the bike is just for transport to school and maybe to Msia occasianally

Thanks in advance ppl!

[stsoh]

Hey guys! Im very interested in this bike as my first bike but i have a few questions, hope ya'll dont mind me asking alot.

 

1) Why is there a 125cc and 150cc version?

first generation tat came out was 125cc (2004).

2nd Gen came out with 150 which were actually 140.2cc.

3rd Gen, cka didn't bring the EFI air/cool engine model.

4th Gen is the current sport model, roadwinR aka rwR.

 

2) Is it called X5 or VJ125?

125cc model is named vj125.

150 model is named X5 based on vj125, engine mod with overbored cylinder n oversized piston to 140.2cc.

 

3) Hows the pickup of the bike? Im more interested in the pickup than the top speed

in general, roadwin (rw) is not fast due to it's big size thus heavier than most 2b, big tire profile (more drag) with small power engine dun expect it to run any faster than lighter weight n same engine capacity mopeds.

top speed for both 125 n 150 is 110 kph @ 10,000 rpm with stock sprockets.

different btwn both is X5 (140.2cc) got extra one horsepony (hp).

in real life, X5 is 3~4 seconds faster to reach top speed (with everything in stock setup).

 

4) Is it possible to change sproket ratio to increase the pick up? will if affect anything?

yes, u can change sprocket ratio but.....engine will run more vibrantly thus more vibrations.

example: sprocket ratio (sr) = rear sprocket teeth/front sprocket teeth.

stock sr=42t/14t=3.0 (it the same as 45t/15t=3.0).

for stock, rw can rev beyond 10,000 rpm thus vibrates too much like engine going to burst, many newbies dun like it.

 

u can change the rear sprocket to 45t (45t/14t=3.2 sr) to improve pickup, top speed will drop to 105kph @10,000 rpm.

plus more vibration, everything will vib loose. massage chair for ur stiff joints.

 

on the other hand, if u use rear sprocket 40t (40t/14t=2.8sr), vib will reduce.

further vibration reduction if up one tooth for the front sprocket (40t/15t=2.6sr).

needless to say pickup will slack n lack of power. engine can rev up to 9,200~9,500 rpm, can't reach 10,000 rpm.

in order to compensate for the slack, tune carb richer for more power thus fc (fuel consumption) went up.

so there a need to find a balance n get to a point whereby it satisfy ones need n enjoy the ride.

 

5) Does stock come with bellypan/chin?

bellypan is an accessory. it's additional, u can buy it from cka (daelim agent).

 

 

6) Anyone tried fitting shroud on it like S4?

i have no ideals, seen one install it b4. others might be able to answer this.

 

 

ps: my usage for the bike is just for transport to school and maybe to Msia occasianally

Thanks in advance ppl!

rw is good for transportation n will not give problem if it's well maintained.

malayias nsh (north-south highway) will be tough due to rw lack of horseponies.

uphill n wind resistant can slowdown rw speed to 90 kph.

kup/moped r not allow on nsh, most dun bother coz they dun know the danger of traveling on nsh.

reasons r kup/moped is light n strong cross wind can blown them off the road if they speed.

rw is very stable at top speed on nsh, i did mostly 100~120 kph going up n down hilly crest nsh.

it's not fast, traveling within the legal limit but dangerous too as most vehicles travel above the speed limit.

it's best if u install a windshield on rw, so tat the wind blast is reduced. u will not be so tired after a long ride.

side roads are lots of blasting fun rides coz one full tank can last 400+km.

be aware tat side roads speed limit is 50 kph, can easily be book for speeding.

 

whether u enjoy riding rw depends on u.

it's a soul machine if u pour ur heart n soul into it.

 

why dun u look at honda tiger 200?

it's has 200cc engine, more hp than 125cc.

better pickup n top speed.

it's has shroud tat u r looking for.

Edited July 17, 2011 by stsoh

[stsoh]

check this out, wk125r made-in-taiwan sell in uk.

http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/bikereviews/searchresults/Bike-Reviews/WK/WK-125R-2011-current/

 

it is rw with cg125 engine n scorpion exhaust is nice.

now we know daelim new tech engine can be replace by old tech cg125.

i think the top speed of 78 mph is not true, old tech cg engine?? lol

[fuds]

. oil filter - $7 , $7.50 TG

2. air filter - $25

3. clutch plate - $65

4. clutch cable - $20(if i remember correctly)

5. clutch spring - $40(if i remember correcly)

6. carburator slide- $25

7. oil drain nut with spring - $12

8. left side footrest bracket- $40

9. Kappa Rack $48

10. Oem Header $150 ( Hq - $180 ) ( Hq cfm, Toh guan nv give exact number.)

11. High beam Side Switch( dk call wad ) $90

12. Whole Meter - $120

13. Rectifier $75 (july 2011)

14. Stator - $140 ( agar agar ) (july 2011)

15. Rear Disc - $130

16. Battery size 12 (non original i think ) - $70

17. Steering Cone + labour - $75 ( Hq - $95 )

18. Open Pod K&N filter ( hq - $160 ) duno relevant not.

19. Rear Brake light - $2

20. Wheelbearings - $20+ (one bearing, rw got 4 in total.)

21. Gear Lever - $70

22. Engine Gasket ( stator side ) - $14

23. Fork jetting ( bending back the clamp ) - $90 Repair

24. Spoket boosh - $45

25. Chain and sprocket set - $170 (CKATG- duno wad chain duno wad sprocket.)

26. Brake pump kit - $48

27. Carburetor joint - $48

28. Racing footrest - $18

[102611M]

Hey thanks for clearing all my doubts and thanks for the suggestion too but theres just something abt the RW that attracts me to it haha

[stsoh]

there r couple of things most newbies found troubling;

1) vibrations at 5~6,000 rpm n above 9,000 rpm.

2) higher fc (fuel consumption) than most 2b bikes.

 

oh, one last thing....newbies r generally students or neet (Not in Employment, Education or Training).

in other words, they have no/less income to support rw maintenance.

even though i (retiree) consider it's rather cheap to run n maintain but expensive for them.

[stsoh]

here's wat newbies dun know about but most concern of getting lowest fc (fuel consumption).

so wat's is good fc??? many will ask.

it's a fact n proven in scientific world tat gasoline burns optimum at stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel mix in mass (wt., not in vol).

 

for any cl2b bikes, tat should be range around 30km/l, any fc above 30km/l is consider lean.

here another fact, lean carb or efi setup, bike engine will run hot. the leaner, engine will run hotter.

combustion temperature can reach above 800 deg C at most extreme lean setting.

normal operating combustion temperature should be around 600~700 deg C.

it also self-cleaning as it will burn off all residuals in the combustion chamber.

at 700 n above deg C is lean state.

 

wat's bad about running lean beside one good point of saving fuel??

here's r the disadvantages;

1) engine is under performance.

2) engine will overheating (stop functioning if it is extremely hot like most stock pulsar).

3) extreme heat can boil/evaporate/cook engine oil thus eo breakdown at faster rate. lost it's properties to lubricate, cleanse, parts wear n tear faster, built up sludge (black death for engine in technical term).

4) extreme heat also cause rubber seal/gasket to change their physical form, turn brittle n hard, sooner will break up n oil will leak.

5) spark plug electrode will be burn off.

6) at worst, overheating can burn a hole thru the piston.

etc..

 

if u still think tat saving fuel is good, think again.

in long run, it's the worst thing tat u do to ur bike, do most harm than good.

besides running at extreme lean produce more pollutant carbon monoxide.

 

do yourself a favour, dun be stingy on saving fuel. run ur bike at optimum stoichiometric setting.

u will enjoy riding more with your bike at performance level n also save the earth from pollutants.