[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[PhilUK]

.

(note: there should be a washer between circlip n sprocket)

rear sprocket is not bound/mount to the wheel hub by those four bolts, it is retained by a circlip.

those four bolts r transmitting torque forces from engine to wheel.

 

Hi again stsoh, my rear wheel has the above mentioned washer missing and here in the UK there are no dealers with microfich or parts lists/diagrams do you know what thickness this washer should be in mm as I have made a plate but it is not holding sprocket very good.

thank you again.

Phil

[stsoh]

http://www.dataparts.de/index.php?language=en

 

clik link above n look at daystar, it indicate washer 53mm.

u can order it instead of manufacturing it.

 

 

eye-ball check (estimate) with tape:

ID: 53mm (dim correct, listed in cat)

OD: 67mm (eye ball check)

Thickness: 1mm (eye ball check)

Edited September 13, 2011 by stsoh

[stsoh]

hmmm... thanks but here the website of the HDEO that one of the tread kept mentioning (http://www.shell.com/static/global/downloads/brochures/product_flyer_rimula_r3xci4.pdf)

 

the sgbikes forum kept saying that its a good and affordable EO.. if it is why not use right? but im not too sure if its safe to use on roadwin

 

rimula doesn't have api 'sg', 'sh' or 'jaso ma' printed on it's label if u want to use it, imo i dun see any harm.

hdeo r formulated for low revolution heavy diesel engine, example of low rev big engine on bikes r harley davidson.

i do know tat hdeo contains zddp, approx 1.2~1.5%.

 

modern bike engines r high rev, i.e. >10k rpm as compare to low rev, i.e. below 4k rpm.

if u understand physics well, u know tat fluid r not compressible, flow resistance, etc.....

there r many different oil formulated for different purposes.

therefore i'm not against using hdeo but recommend use royal purple max-cycle 20w-50 engine oil.

[PhilUK]

http://www.dataparts.de/index.php?language=en

 

clik link above n look at daystar, it indicate washer 53mm.

u can order it instead of manufacturing it.

 

 

eye-ball check (estimate) with tape:

ID: 53mm (dim correct, listed in cat)

OD: 67mm (eye ball check)

Thickness: 1mm (eye ball check)

Thank you for the reply stsoh, exactly the information I required, you are indeed very knowledgable about Daelim motorcycles and your help and advice is very much appreciated, I love this little machine and want to keep it on the road for as long as possible and now I know where to identify and purchase parts in Europe it will be much simpler.

Thank you agian.

Phil

[PhilUK]

Just tried to order parts needed for my DS from http://www.dataparts.de/index.php?language=en but sorry to say they do not ship or take orders from outside of Germany, what a shame I am very dissapointed (so much for the European trade agreement) oh well back to the drawing board as they say.

Phil

[stsoh]

in tat case, try contact singapore daelim agent - cka n ask if they do export to uk.

their web site http://www.cka.com.sg .

u can still use dataparts catalog part numbers as references.

 

ps

i like to refer singapore as sillypore coz of many unwanted rules n regulations tat we sillyporeans r oblige to follow.

Edited September 13, 2011 by stsoh

[fuds]

rimula doesn't have api 'sg', 'sh' or 'jaso ma' printed on it's label if u want to use it, imo i dun see any harm.

hdeo r formulated for low revolution heavy diesel engine, example of low rev big engine on bikes r harley davidson.

i do know tat hdeo contains zddp, approx 1.2~1.5%.

 

modern bike engines r high rev, i.e. >10k rpm as compare to low rev, i.e. below 4k rpm.

if u understand physics well, u know tat fluid r not compressible, flow resistance, etc.....

there r many different oil formulated for different purposes.

therefore i'm not against using hdeo but recommend use royal purple max-cycle 20w-50 engine oil.

 

I use rp max cycle 20w-50 before for 2 mth. It was nice and smooth. there always a weird smell when i stop at traffic lights or parking. Then when I change back to castrol $15 one, it smooth also but now bike got rough again after a month.

 

not sure if HDEO have cleaning function. But might try it soon.

 

Anyway sir, may I know how often you change your eo for rp max cycle 20w-50?

[stsoh]

now eo change every six months....coz seldom ride.

oil filter on every two eo change, i.e. once a year.

if ride every day n accumulate lot of kilometers then i will follow owner's manual maintenance schedule, i.e. every 4,000km.

 

reasons why i change every six months:

1) low mileage, approx

2) oil will start to deteriorate/oxidize/contaminate by dew n combustion carbon/heat....etc after 3 months exposure to our oxygen loaded atmosphere.

3) always felt great smooth engine ride with fresh oil.

 

wat kind of smell? can elaborate more.

i dun have any weird oil smell, maybe ur engine is lean tuned n may have engine overheat tat cook oil smell.

 

my engine is tuned to my liking.

 

check ur spark plug electrode color.

if it is brown or tan......it is good air/fuel mix, engine will run at good cool temperature.

if it is white or grey......it is lean air/fuel mix, engine will run hot when it's grey n very hot if it is white.

if it is sooty or black......it is rich air/fuel mix, engine will run at low temperature.

 

i read the oil thread at accessories section.....why dun u try hdeo?

should be good, like i say it does no harm to rw engine.

it is cheaper coz they sell in large quantity, a gallon (4 liters) bottle n it's mineral (dino) base oil.

change eo regularly every 4,000km if it can last tat long, if it feel rough then change eo earlier.

 

engine oil guide:

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/MOTOR_OIL_GUIDE_2010_120210.pdf

 

even it stated api 'sg' n 'sh' r obsolete but it is essential for motorcycle engines.

not sure whether the latest api 'sn' is good for motorcycle engines or not? should we start using api 'sn'?

Edited September 14, 2011 by stsoh

[fuds]

now eo change every six months....coz seldom ride.

oil filter on every two eo change, i.e. once a year.

if ride every day n accumulate lot of kilometers then i will follow owner's manual maintenance schedule, i.e. every 4,000km.

 

reasons why i change every six months:

1) low mileage, approx

2) oil will start to deteriorate/oxidize/contaminate by dew n combustion carbon/heat....etc after 3 months exposure to our oxygen loaded atmosphere.

3) always felt great smooth engine ride with fresh oil.

 

wat kind of smell? can elaborate more.

i dun have any weird oil smell, maybe ur engine is lean tuned n may have engine overheat tat cook oil smell.

 

my engine is tuned to my liking.

 

check ur spark plug electrode color.

if it is brown or tan......it is good air/fuel mix, engine will run at good cool temperature.

if it is white or grey......it is lean air/fuel mix, engine will run hot when it's grey n very hot if it is white.

if it is sooty or black......it is rich air/fuel mix, engine will run at low temperature.

 

i read the oil thread at accessories section.....why dun u try hdeo?

should be good, like i say it does no harm to rw engine.

it is cheaper coz they sell in large quantity, a gallon (4 liters) bottle n it's mineral (dino) base oil.

change eo regularly every 4,000km if it can last tat long, if it feel rough then change eo earlier.

 

engine oil guide:

http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/MOTOR_OIL_GUIDE_2010_120210.pdf

 

even it stated api 'sg' n 'sh' r obsolete but it is essential for motorcycle engines.

not sure whether the latest api 'sn' for to bike engines or not? should we start using api 'sn'?

 

my weekly milege is about 400km then i go fill.. so means every 10weeks i shoud change my eo ah.. and oil filter is 2nd eo change.

 

there's a burning wierd smell when i use rp max cycle. but there isn't any smell when i use other eo..

 

anyway sir, how do i check my spark plug electrode colour? i have to open the spark plug area there is it?

[stsoh]

i used to traveled east2west n west2east, i.e. 90km both ways.

now i dun use the bike as transport but for leisure.

 

use the tool kit tat came with the bike.

spark plug long socket (16mm) with screw driver slot into the hole as extension handle.

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp

just be careful not to cross thread it.

always use hand to turn the socket with spark plug into the threaded hole, never use force,

sometimes it might be sticky, u can use light force.

dun over-tighten the spark plug.

tighten with the screw driver handle is more than enough.

 

sometimes the plug might get caught under the cooling fin cover.

use long nose pier to get spark plug out.

 

note: remove spark plug when engine is cold, do not remove spark plug when engine is hot.

Edited September 14, 2011 by stsoh

[fuds]

hmmm...thanks you sir! i will take note of the spark plug when i change it..

[jaeleo]

Hi stsoh,

 

regarding spark plugs, i just did a change yesterday. The mechanic at CKA bukit batok recommended NHK G Power Platinium, part no. CPR6EAGP-9.

 

I've looked around including NHK part no. guide but the codes only tell half the story. It seems, the G Power plug has a heat rating of 6. I looked at the manual and my old plug and they seem to have a heat rating of 8 instead. Will this cause any overheating problems that i should be concerned about?

[stsoh]

i'm not sure.

ngk code with lower number is hot type, higher number is cold type.

http://www.ngk.com/characteristicImages/6.jpg

i dun know the cross reference for NHK brand.......???

 

u didn't ask cka why they install this heat range?? tat mech might not know technically about heat range.

do u have any problem starting or running??

ur bike is tune rich (engine run cooler) then use a hot plug to retain heat (original is safe n sound).

vice verse if ur bike is tune very lean (engine run hot) then use a cold plug to dissipate heat faster.

it's all about maintaining the correct combustion temperature n heat.

 

one example, if ur bike runs lean with hot plug then electrode tip will burnt out faster than norm.

 

u can check spark plug electrode tip color;

if it is white, it is hot, need change up to a cold plug.

if it is black, it is cold, need change down to a hot plug.

if it is brown or tan, it is OK.

 

didnt cka has the same '8' heat range type for platinum plug??

be safe switch back to '8' heat range type plug.

 

ps:

always use manufacturer's recommended spark plug.

roadwin spark plug code: NGK CR8EH-9, alternatively iridium equivalent code: NGK CR8EHIX-9.

(check on ngk website, platinum code: NGK CR8EHVX-9 is obsolete part).

Edited September 20, 2011 by stsoh

[PhilUK]

in tat case, try contact singapore daelim agent - cka n ask if they do export to uk.

their web site http://www.cka.com.sg .

u can still use dataparts catalog part numbers as references.

 

ps

i like to refer singapore as sillypore coz of many unwanted rules n regulations tat we sillyporeans r oblige to follow.

 

Well I am starting to wish I had never purchased a Daelim here in the Uk as the crew at CKA dont even reply to emails or web contacts, this could end up a big problem for parts over here and they are still selling Daelim MCs on Ebay in the UK.

Phil

[stsoh]

u got to forgive them coz they dun work with PC at their place, probably u get a reply later.

i think their IT guy is a part timer, their system is not connected to www.

fax them n u may get an earlier reply.

else try daelim USA, oops google search n it's close.

next, wat about australia... http://www.daelim.com.au/ ......maybe they can help.

Edited September 20, 2011 by stsoh

[PhilUK]

u got to forgive them coz they dun work with PC at their place, probably u get a reply later.

i think their IT guy is a part timer, their system is not connected to www.

fax them n u may get an earlier reply.

else try daelim USA, oops google search n it's close.

next, wat about australia... http://www.daelim.com.au/ ......maybe they can help.

 

Thank you stsoh, I have just pleaded with them on facebook as they seem to give good responces via that portal, fingers crossed, USA no longer deal with or keep Daelim parts and Austrailian and Bahamas Daelim owners are having similar problems after reading blogs, I need to find a friend in Germany who is willing to purchase and repost to the UK.

I will keep you all informed

Phil

[jaeleo]

thanks for the reply stsoh.

 

ya i only found out about the heat range thing after buying the spark plug from them.

my old spark plug seems okay, no erosion or fouling. Will continue to monitor the spark plug and switch back to 8 heat range if it doesnt look right.

 

Cheers!

[fuds]

The heavy rain nearly stop my bike man.. a slight problem throttling due to my wet open pod filter x.x

[excas]

Hey guys I'm looking for a 125 or 150, went to the shop at jurong east and found that the 150 was selling for more than the 125.. when divided by the years left for the COE, the 125 was at S$800 and the 150 at S$900 per year..

 

Is this normally the case? I thought the 125 should be more expensive since its a sports bike?

 

I'm thinking of getting the 150, but the bike doesnt seem to be able to start and sustain itself.. The dude said its cos he hasnt started it in a week.. Plus, apparently you cannot quick rev the 150, u have to gently throttle it up else the engine keeps stalling.. I stalled it like 2-3 times in 2 mins..

Also, you cannot quick change gears for both bikes? U have to release the clutch each time you change gears? I dont see the honda cbr125s having this problem as well.. Isit just cos of that bike, or isit the same for all the bikes?

 

Thanks for your replies!

[stsoh]

is the 125cc EFI (electronic fuel injection) sport bike (roadwinR)?

if yes, it should be a better choice than the air cool carb 150cc model (actual engine capacity is 140.2cc).

 

daelim agent mechs n most roadwin owners do not know how to tune daelim engine, most r overly rich or lean.

so if the 150cc can't even start n idle, problem with gear shifting. it's a lemon (problem) bike.

my advise is dun buy it unless u know how to rectify it yourself.

Edited October 13, 2011 by stsoh

[excas]

Icic, thanks for the info! =)

[beyond23]

Hi stsoh,

 

how are you? Hope u r doing fine =)

 

Can i check with you something.

 

My mileage as of now is ard 31000km.

Been riding daelim roadwin 125 for past 5 years ++ already. Approaching 6 yrs soon.

 

Went for my regular servicing recently and I asked CKA is there anything need to be done since i ride for quite some time. CKA highlighted major servicing is generally performed @ 35000km.

 

What's ur take on this? Have you done this major servicing before?

[stsoh]

fine n doing well.

 

i been riding my roadwin since 2004 coming 8 yrs, mileage 66,700 km, no major servicing.

i did tappet clearance check @ 50,000 km myself n surprise to find still within service specs.

 

well, just like the old saying goes....'if it ain't broke, dun fix it'.

just continue routine maintenance tat u normally do.

 

oh, one more thing.....check the wires from the stator coil connector.

recently i find the wires were fused together due to heat on long rides.

i separate them apply insulate tape on each individual wires.

 

ride safe.

Edited October 18, 2011 by stsoh

[beyond23]

stsoh, tks for the reply.

 

what does major servicing comprises of? is it the same as overhual?

[stsoh]

seriously, i dun know wat cka major servicing is??

maybe u can ask a listing of items from them.

i usually follow the maintenance schedule items listed on the owner's service manual.

nowadays am not working n seldom ride my bike, eo change seem like a waste even if i did it every six months.

now i decided to do eo change once a year using my fav max-cycle 20w-50 eo.