[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[duriandan]

rocket_serve, pls do not endanger ur life.

change ur tire immediate if tats ur situation.

ur tire have worn out, bald or old (rubber have hardened).

it is good practice to change both front n rear together.

use the same brand of tire, eg. both front n rear tire of bridgestone, pirelli, dunlop, metzeler, etc., dun mix brands as manufacturers recommendation.

usually front tire will worn faster than rear coz we brake front brake more than the rear, tat means mostly bikers will change two front then rear will be worn enough to be change.

different brands/types of tires come with different specs, eg., soft, medium or hard. speed rating, load rating, etc.

tat why their prices r different, big bikes tires r expensive coz of their high specs for high speed.

recommend u use bt039 or bt045 bridgestone tire, oem swallow tire is soft tire tat will wear out fast.

bridgestone normally come with dct (dual compound thread), tat means the middle compound is of harder rubber n the side is of soft compound. so tat is durable n cornering safe.

 

Yes, BT is good. And not outrageously expensive like Class 2 tyres. Fatter the safer, but take note that your choice will affect the speed, especially acceleration from zero, as the engine is only 125 and not particularly powerful.

[stsoh]

rocket_serve,

new tire need to be run-in for about 100km (as recommended by tire manufacturers).

this is becoz new tire has a coat of wax on the surface of the tire.

running-in means ride ur bike easy, no unnecessary rush, pushing to top speed or e-braking, etc.

the coat of wax will eventually wears out or during a ride, tire will generate heat to soften the wax n throw it off due to centrifugal force (if dun believe me, u can feel the tire after each ride, the tire is warm).

[rocket_serve]

haha thanks guys for the advice but ytd night i skidded (rear wheel locked) as i was downshifting to make my way to the side of the bus stop. whats causing this? is it the engine brake too strong that coupled with alittle rear brake will cause it to jam? and im damn afraid to corner with this bike cause it just too wobbly. it doesn't give me confidence like my old sp when cornering.

[duriandan]

haha thanks guys for the advice but ytd night i skidded (rear wheel locked) as i was downshifting to make my way to the side of the bus stop. whats causing this? is it the engine brake too strong that coupled with alittle rear brake will cause it to jam? and im damn afraid to corner with this bike cause it just too wobbly. it doesn't give me confidence like my old sp when cornering.

 

Hmn... I guess engine brake + rear brake + slippery rear tyre + slippery road surface can cause skidding... Think should take it to a deserted carpark and try so that you know what thing (or a combination of things) is causing it...

 

One thing about RW is the fuel tank is quite big and high, so it feels like tipping over sideways while cornering. But you get used to it after a while, and cornering confidently shouldn't be a problem.

[stsoh]

rocket_serve,

if ur rear brake locked then u will fishtail n skidded, i guessed tat wat happens to u.

i suggest u service ur brakes immediately.

i bet ur bike previous owners have not done any maintenance on the brakes.

changing pads is not the only maintenance, there r more than tat.

every monthly, i will use silicone spray with a thin tube attached to the nozzle n spray at the brake caliper pistons.

this is the get rid of dust, grime n rust, so tat piston is able to retract when release (note: do not spray at pads n rotor disc).

as for me, every two years, i will do brakes maintenance like change brake oil, strip n clean.

same goes for the fork.

 

about the wobbling topic, depends on rider's preference.

i did discussed with roy many yrs ago, i remembered he says tat many rw owners prefer softer setting on the fork.

he will pour 250cc of fork oil into each fork leg instead 275cc as per manual.

but i prefer more stiffer setup, i tried 300cc then reduce to 285cc of fork oil for each fork leg.

plus added 2mm thick washers on each fork leg to add more spring compression load stiffness.

(the amount of oil is duration of dampening n rebound during which the leg move up n down.

more spring compression load means more resistance for the down force thus stiffer reaction, largely depend rider's weight.)

it is set to my riding preference, maybe ur is set too soft tat cause ur bike to wobble.

or it can be previous owner had never done fork maintain at all.

 

most riders neglected maintaining brakes, fork n chain.

 

u need to visit cka-hq n consult roy about all ur problems.

Edited November 16, 2012 by stsoh

[kay1605203579]

hi,

 

there are markings on the wheels which reads 140/60. what does it means? i am riding a x5, and i appreciate the wide wheels. therotically more grip?

 

how much does it costs to change the wheels? do we have to go back cka?

[duriandan]

rocket_serve,

if ur rear brake locked then u will fishtail n skidded, i guessed tat wat happens to u.

i suggest u service ur brakes immediately.

i bet ur bike previous owners have not done any maintenance on the brakes.

changing pads is not the only maintenance, there r more than tat.

every monthly, i will use silicone spray with a thin tube attached to the nozzle n spray at the brake caliper pistons.

this is the get rid of dust, grime n rust, so tat piston is able to retract when release (note: do not spray at pads n rotor disc).

as for me, every two years, i will do brakes maintenance like change brake oil, strip n clean.

same goes for the fork.

 

about the wobbling topic, depends on rider's preference.

i did discussed with roy many yrs ago, i remembered he says tat many rw owners prefer softer setting on the fork.

he will pour 250cc of fork oil into each fork leg instead 275cc as per manual.

but i prefer more stiffer setup, i tried 300cc then reduce to 285cc of fork oil for each fork leg.

plus added 2mm thick washers on each fork leg to add more spring compression load stiffness.

(the amount of oil is duration of dampening n rebound during which the leg move up n down.

more spring compression load means more resistance for the down force thus stiffer reaction, largely depend rider's weight.)

it is set to my riding preference, maybe ur is set too soft tat cause ur bike to wobble.

or it can be previous owner had never done fork maintain at all.

 

most riders neglected maintaining brakes, fork n chain.

 

u need to visit cka-hq n consult roy about all ur problems.

 

Yup, just ask Roy!

[Greenfin2001]

Hi folks,

 

speaking about tyres, mine is due for replacement soon and I was wondering if there is any models that are dual terrain or equivalent to its kind?

Recently,and reluctantly,I was assigned to work in a construction site(very ulu place) with almost little paved up area. On top of that, the weather this month isn't that good these few days

 

I was thinking of installing the bellypan to avoid damage to the headers, but its all plasticky and don't think its much of a protection.

My front forks are very soft too.Maybe I make the suspension stiffer to improve and avoid accidental 'knocking' of the headers on the ground as was mentioned..

 

Any advise?

end year bonus coming soon and was thinking of parting some of my $$$ to my ride

[stsoh]

for tires, i recommend use bridgestone bt-039 or bt-045.

u can buy tires from any bike shop, shop around for best deal

(of course or needless to say LAB - lim ah boy is the cheapest n worst workmanship).

they will be cheaper than cka (whom is an agent, will charge higher price).

 

there are markings on the wheels which reads 140/60. what does it means?

140/60 means 140mm wide n the wall (side/height) of the tire is 60% of 140mm (width) = 84mm wall (side/height).

 

avoid accidental 'knocking' of the headers on the ground

i dun think its possible to hit ground, install belly will be dirtier in those muddy condition.

[kay1605203579]

hi stsoh,

 

thank you. is it advisable to get tyres wider than 140/60? I understand there are tyres which are not suitable for wet roads. how do we tell?

 

which shop would you recommend for daelim bike regular maintenance? how bad is LAB workmanship in terms of tyre changes and regular maintenance? is the price/workmanship tradeoff worth it?

 

 

for tires, i recommend use bridgestone bt-039 or bt-045.

u can buy tires from any bike shop, shop around for best deal

(of course or needless to say LAB - lim ah boy is the cheapest n worst workmanship).

they will be cheaper than cka (whom is an agent, will charge higher price).

 

 

140/60 means 140mm wide n the wall (side/height) of the tire is 60% of 140mm (width) = 84mm wall (side/height).

 

 

i dun think its possible to hit ground, install belly will be dirtier in those muddy condition.

[kay1605203579]

btw, is there a manual kickstart for daelim? from riding school till now, i've only known electric start .

[duriandan]

hi stsoh,

 

thank you. is it advisable to get tyres wider than 140/60? I understand there are tyres which are not suitable for wet roads. how do we tell?

 

which shop would you recommend for daelim bike regular maintenance? how bad is LAB workmanship in terms of tyre changes and regular maintenance? is the price/workmanship tradeoff worth it?

 

The Roadwin's already not very powerful, if you get a wider and heavier tyre - if it can fit - you're gonna want to change back after feeling the lag.

 

Daelim bike regular maintenance there's only one recommended place, which is CKA HQ. Other bike shops will still have to send someone down there to pick up the parts, and then charge more for the hassle, and markup.

[duriandan]

btw, is there a manual kickstart for daelim? from riding school till now, i've only known electric start .

 

No manual kickstart for Roadwin. Don't worry about electric problems as they're relatively rare for Roadwin.

[stsoh]

hi stsoh,

 

thank you. is it advisable to get tyres wider than 140/60? I understand there are tyres which are not suitable for wet roads. how do we tell?

stick to 140/60 or 140/70 tire, 140/70 is more common than 140/60 or 150/60.

wider tire means more drag, rw small engine will be stressed.

 

unlike racing tire which can cost a few thousand of dollars for one tire.

road use, specification can be read from manufacturers website.

if u look for more specific or higher specification, it will cost more.

tats why tires on big bikes r more expensive due to their higher spec, eg. speed rating up to 300kph.

 

http://www.bridgestone.com/products/motorcycle_tires/products/option/index.html

 

http://www.bridgestone.com/products/motorcycle_tires/products/battlax/bt45.html

 

 

which shop would you recommend for daelim bike regular maintenance?

if u know a good mech or diy, otherwise cka is the better option for newbies or not good mechanically.

 

how bad is LAB workmanship in terms of tyre changes and regular maintenance? is the price/workmanship tradeoff worth it?

in this forum there r many complains about them, u can try ur luck.

they price is certainly low compare to others.

 

is there a manual kickstart for daelim?

only electric start.

[Greenfin2001]

for tires, i recommend use bridgestone bt-039 or bt-045.

u can buy tires from any bike shop, shop around for best deal

(of course or needless to say LAB - lim ah boy is the cheapest n worst workmanship).

they will be cheaper than cka (whom is an agent, will charge higher price).

 

Thanks dude..

Edited December 4, 2012 by Greenfin2001

[stsoh]

Any advise?

end year bonus coming soon and was thinking of parting some of my $$$ to my ride

 

suggest invest on a windshield for wind protection (wind blast).

even tot rw top speed is not fast but at least on route, u will not feel tire or ur shirt will not be as much dirty.

[kay1605203579]

hi anyone experienced this?

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/373290-Brake-Light-is-constantly-on.

 

Hi.

 

My tail light is constantly on. The red light did not intensify when I tap on either of the brakes. Once I turn the key to ON, the tail light lits brightly.

 

Its dangerous because vehicles behind me won't know that i applied brakes. The lights are no different, regardless brakes a not.

 

I only discovered the problem today. Riding daelim roadwin X5. Anyone can kindly advise? Is it a must to go back cka? Any workshop to recommend? Or any workshop opens on sunday?

 

Thanks.

[kay1605203579]

It might be a mistake to buy 2nd hand 2b bike. Yes. im feeling some frustration.

 

I thought I shall buy new bike after I got class 2A

[duriandan]

hi anyone experienced this?

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/373290-Brake-Light-is-constantly-on.

 

Could just be wiring. Simple matter for CKA to fix.

[duriandan]

It might be a mistake to buy 2nd hand 2b bike. Yes. im feeling some frustration.

 

I thought I shall buy new bike after I got class 2A

 

Actually, buy any second hand bike is have to spend a few months fixing any kinks that surface. Even for new bikes kinks will surface...

[kay1605203579]

Could just be wiring. Simple matter for CKA to fix.

 

 

i just returned from car park.

 

the fault lies wif rear brake. as tis is 2nd hand bike, there r oily deposits in the spring mechanism which prevents springing of the brake level to its perfect oringinal position thus triggers the brake light.

 

i removed the oily deposits surrouding that spring on rear brake level, and the prblem seems okay now.

 

im not comfortable though. will bring down to cka someday sooon.

 

regretted that i have gottn a 2nd hand bike. but it doesnt make sense to get a new 2b bike i feel.

[kay1605203579]

Actually, buy any second hand bike is have to spend a few months fixing any kinks that surface. Even for new bikes kinks will surface...

 

indeed. there are things i feel i shouldnt state openly about some of the shops of the distributor.

 

but cant fault them. as the saying goes - caveat emptor

[kay1605203579]

are there any ways to prevent rusting? especially those chrome areas beneath the engine.

[duriandan]

are there any ways to prevent rusting? especially those chrome areas beneath the engine.

 

I would go with an anti rust spray from a hardware store:

 

http://www.google.com.sg/search?hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&biw=320&bih=416&tbm=isch&sa=1&q=anti+rust+spray&oq=anti+rust+spray&gs_l=mobile-gws-serp.3..0j0i24l4.17245.19195.0.19578.6.3.0.3.3.0.123.327.1j2.3.0...0.0...1ac.1.liJ82QuH9sQ#p=0

 

 

Though in my experience the rusting is quite minimal even if I keep it in the rain everyday.

[stsoh]

are there any ways to prevent rusting? especially those chrome areas beneath the engine.

 

i use silicon spray to keep rust away, i do it once a month.

it can be brought at any diy shop, cost btwn S$7~9/btl.

silicon spray will dry up n leave a wax coat (safe with plastic n rubber), unlike wd40 which leave it wet n oil.

spray at any rust or alum oxidize parts even on plastic n rubber (on the seats too).

makes all parts move freely, dirt n grimes can be easily clean, simply wipe off with toilet paper.

nowadays i dun use water/soap to clean coz it easily corrode parts.