[Group] DAELIM roadwin

[stsoh]

sprockets r common, ie. it is 428 pitch tat r use on most class2b mopeds.

u can change it at any bikeshop even at jb which will be much cheaper than cka (daelim agent, any agents will charge at premium price).

just bear in mind tat stock is 42t(rear)/14t(front)=3.0 sprocket ratio(sr) which is the same as 45t/15t=3.0.

40t/15t=2.6, u might not like the lacking in pickup but much lesser vibration, increase in fc.

if u dun understand, try to imagine changing to high gear when cycling, more leg power r needed to pedal.

even at 42t/15t=2.8, i find its pickup lacking. currently i'm using 44t/15t=2.9 sr.

if diy, u can buy it from LAB (lim ah boy) at kelantan rd.

bikeshop will charge inclusive of installation.

[casesensitive]

Thank you mr stsoh! I think i will try it out soon. I just want to travel smoothly on the highway without too much vibs. Right now its 100 @ 7.5k rpm on the meter.

[stsoh]

100 kph @ 7.5k rpm, probably @ 2.8 sr (ur [email protected] rpm).

ur bike doesnt vib tat excessively as stock.

if u ready want to reduce vibs, u should try 39t (rear) n 15t (front) = 2.6 SR.

on a flat level ECP expressway, max out [email protected] rpm coz of lacking horsepower.

down hill can max out at 130kph@10k rpm n up hill max out at 90kph.

 

stock vibs more coz of higher rpm, ie. 42t/14t=3.0 SR:

110 kph @ 10k rpm

100 kph @ 9k rpm

90 kph @ 8k rpm

80 kph @ 7k rpm, etc.

Edited June 21, 2013 by stsoh

[stsoh]

differences between 2.6 n 3.0 sprocket ratio (sr).

 

2.6 sr, it put more load stress on the engine to reduce vibs, burns more fuel for more energy to drive.

 

example:

riding a bicycle,

 

small front/big rear gears use little effort to pedal, no problem cycling uphill n no sweat riding entire day.

 

big front/small rear gears use more leg power n harder to pedal, can cycle at faster speed, consumed a lot of energy (needs more food for a person to sustain riding) and tired fast.

 

3.0 sr uses less energy (fuel) to drive, speed up to 100kph faster as compared to 2.6 sr.

Edited June 20, 2013 by stsoh

[casesensitive]

differences between 2.6 n 3.0 sprocket ratio (sr).

 

2.6 sr, it put more load stress on the engine to reduce vibs, burns more fuel for more energy to drive.

 

example:

riding a bicycle,

 

small front/big rear gears use little effort to pedal, no problem cycling uphill n no sweat riding entire day.

 

big front/small rear gears use more leg power n harder to pedal, can cycle at faster speed, consumed a lot of energy (needs more food for a person to sustain riding) and tired fast.

 

3.0 sr uses less energy (fuel) to drive, speed up to 100kph faster as compared to 2.6 sr.

 

ah... makes sense... anw, gonna change my spark plug soon maybe changing the chain and sprocket another time... $$ to insurance ...zzzzz

[6.1.9.]

Hi guys. Seeking advice here. I am looking to get my first bike, which is a used roadwin X5. Anything that I should specifically take note of when viewing? COE till 2016 with S$1.7k offer, good buy? Thanks.

Edited July 3, 2013 by 6.1.9.

[kay1605203579]

Hi X5 owners,

 

Has anyone gone beyond 110 KM/h on your X5? At 110, my X5 is vibrating uncomfortably, I don't want to throttle harder. The comfortable riding speed range for me is between 80-90 KM/h. What's yours?

[kay1605203579]

What's your fuel consumption for your X5? Mine is between 32 KM - 35 KM per liter.

[aqck]

hi, mine can reach 110km/h with 2 people... my sprocket ratio 2.8 = 42t/15t

[kay1605203579]

hi, mine can reach 110km/h with 2 people... my sprocket ratio 2.8 = 42t/15t

 

Hi

 

How do you find out your own sprocket ratio?

 

(what is it anyway?)

[stsoh]

Hi

 

How do you find out your own sprocket ratio?

 

(what is it anyway?)

 

sprocket ratio is number of rear sprocket gear teeth divide by number of front sprocket gear teeth.

 

for example:

stock or OEM (Original Equipment Manufacture) has 14t front sprocket gear and 42t rear sprocket gear ("t" = teeth).

stock sprocket ratio (SR) = 42/14 = 3.0,

if change front sprocket gear to 15t and maintain the same teeth rear sprocket gear then the SR = 42/15 = 2.8.

 

u can count them or u can also find a imprint of "42t" or "15t" letters on the side of the sprocket gears.

most of the time, it is too dirty to read it, need to clean off those greasy dirts.

 

best practices:

1) spray thin lay of chain lub on the "O" ring every 1000 km. dont spray too much becoz it will fly and dirty the wheel rim.

2) spray thin lay of chain lub on the next day if ride on rain/wet road (like after rain the road is wet).

reason is water will wash of the lubrication since it is oil base.

(oh, the chain lub is to lubricate the "O", "X" or "XW" rings of the chain because within the rollers of the chain is packed with grease. the seal rings of "O", "X" or "XW" is to prevent the pack grease from flying off).

3) always change complete set of sprockets and chain, reason is the gear teeth and rollers have a precision pitch (428p).

if u change just the chain alone and re-use the sprockets, it will damage the new chain due to the worn sprockets and visa-versa.

 

enjoy ur ride.

Edited July 31, 2013 by stsoh

[aqck]

thanks to stsoh advise... cheers!

[stsoh]

just to let newbies be aware tat water in tank is common occurrences (2-3 times a yr) if u pump petrol in JB or malaysia.

this is because when u pump petrol, water in the ground tank is also pump up n settle in ur tank.

 

in sillypore, u can expect water in tank, once in two or three yrs or when petrol station fill their underground tanks, water is stir up.

water will settle down at bottom, when u use the reserve, water will flow into carb's bowl n settle at the lowest part where the main-jet orifice is located.

 

symptom:

can start engine but wont move or engine die when engaged on first gear.

when cruising, u can feel slagging or not norm ride, etc.

 

u can drain n empty ur fuel tank. u will find a few cc of water (yes, just a few cc, dont expect a litre. tats enough to cause mayhem.)

 

temporary rectification:

1) turn fuel-cock off.

2) loose the carb drain screw. (if u have not loosen the drain screw b4, u need a large screw driver becoz it is really tight. then use ur kit screw driver n hand tight is enough, it wont vib loose or loosen easily).

3) once the bowl is drained, turn fuel-cock to reserve (tip point up).

4) let some fuel drain (about 50-100cc, reserve open the port on lower portion of the tank. the tank has a lowest bottom pit to collect settled water n this is filled up).

5) close the fuel-cock n tighten the carb drain screw.

6) open fuel-cock (tip point down) n wait one minute allow the carb bowl to be fill up b4 starting the engine.

7) done. this is a temporary fix for u to continue ur ride home or to cka workshop.

 

full rectification:

1) drain petrol into a container, empty tank completely.

2) of course, u dont throw away good petrol. u can see a little boob of water at the bottom of the container.

3) u can pour back 99% of petrol back into the tank n throw away the 1% with water.

4) done.

 

tip for the day.

[kay1605203579]

Thanks uncle soh. How does the ratio affect performance of the bike? Is it worth to change the X5's exhaust to a slimmer version?

 

 

sprocket ratio is number of rear sprocket gear teeth divide by number of front sprocket gear teeth.

 

for example:

stock or OEM (Original Equipment Manufacture) has 14t front sprocket gear and 42t rear sprocket gear ("t" = teeth).

stock sprocket ratio (SR) = 42/14 = 3.0,

if change front sprocket gear to 15t and maintain the same teeth rear sprocket gear then the SR = 42/15 = 2.8.

 

u can count them or u can also find a imprint of "42t" or "15t" letters on the side of the sprocket gears.

most of the time, it is too dirty to read it, need to clean off those greasy dirts.

 

best practices:

1) spray thin lay of chain lub on the "O" ring every 1000 km. dont spray too much becoz it will fly and dirty the wheel rim.

2) spray thin lay of chain lub on the next day if ride on rain/wet road (like after rain the road is wet).

reason is water will wash of the lubrication since it is oil base.

(oh, the chain lub is to lubricate the "O", "X" or "XW" rings of the chain because within the rollers of the chain is packed with grease. the seal rings of "O", "X" or "XW" is to prevent the pack grease from flying off).

3) always change complete set of sprockets and chain, reason is the gear teeth and rollers have a precision pitch (428p).

if u change just the chain alone and re-use the sprockets, it will damage the new chain due to the worn sprockets and visa-versa.

 

enjoy ur ride.

[kay1605203579]

anyone changed their stock side mirrors to a smaller profile ones? Otherwise sometimes it feels as if im going to hit car's side mirrors.

[lazykatak]

anyone finding spare parts can pm me.... will scrap my roadwin soon after I transfer the number plate to my current bike.... just name the parts u want and the price u willing to pay.... better to sell to u bros the to let the scrapyard earn.....

[stsoh]

Thanks uncle soh. How does the ratio affect performance of the bike? Is it worth to change the X5's exhaust to a slimmer version?

 

sprocket ratio does affect the performance.

stock sr = 3.0 - this give good performance but many dont like the vibration at top end rpm.

sr = 2.8 - weak if engine is stock. need to tune carb richer, burn more fuel for performance.

mileage avg 25~28 km/l depends on ur throttle twisting.

if u want more pickup (acceleration), try sr = 3.2 (front=14t, rear=45t).

this will give u a better pickup rush but lower top speed to 105 kph.

 

no point wasting good money for fancy looks exhaust.

 

stock exhaust is the best w/o the silencer.

do not pierce a hole thru baffle.

 

baffle is the plate at the middle of the muffler.

it is a partition to cancel out sound wave from the exhaust flow.

if it is damage, u cant repair it. replacement with new muffler.

 

silencer is the small pipe at the end of the muffler.

it can be remove by removing the four rivets.

remove the cover, then u can remove the silencer.

place back the cover n rivet back, good to go.

Edited August 16, 2013 by stsoh

[casesensitive]

hi guys! i have a roadwin for coi. if interested, do drop me a pm. thanks.

 

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[casesensitive]

anw, what is the rack for roadwin x5?

 

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

[aqck]

Hi Guys, I'm letting go my roadwin x5, due to upgrade pls PM or text me 82232921

Date of registration: 28 Aug 2008

Colour: Blue

Condition: 8/10

Mileage: 23xxx

Owners: 3

COE: 27 Aug 2018

Road Tax :

Price: 3,000

Under Hire-purchase: No

Edited October 8, 2013 by aqck

[neowenbin]

what do you guys think of a new rider getting x5 for the first bike?

[snowfox85]

hi all.. new rider here, passed my 2b 4mths back. jus got my 2nd hand x5 last week. should say its nice to ride though the exhaust a bit loud.

 

just like to ask if anyone know what could be the problem with the fork if when going over a steep hump at bout 30-40km/h and it has a *tok* sound?

[stsoh]

....just like to ask if anyone know what could be the problem with the fork if when going over a steep hump at bout 30-40km/h and it has a *tok* sound?

 

its the side stand knocking against the frame.

i use electrical wire tie-wrap, tie thru one half of side stand with the tie-wrap head in between metal of the side-stand n frame.

 

if not, many riders dun maintain their fork, replace fork oil.

fork oil change is a bi-yearly maintenance.

Edited November 14, 2013 by stsoh

[lostjackal]

check for any oil seeping or leaking out from the rubber seals. if the seals look worn out or if the silvery part fork feels oily then you've got a bad seal and most likely there's no more fork oil left in them.

 

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[snowfox85]

i see.. thanks stsoh and lostjackal advise. side stand hitting frame will be something i will take note. the fork seal seems ok and no visible leakage.