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  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted
When I start my engine my RPM needle jump until 4k, will this be a serious problem?

 

no, its not.

you simply installed the carb sliding valve the wrong way around.

one side has a thin slot from top to bottom and the other side has a fat half-way slot for the idle-screw.

just made sure fat half-way slot is at the idle-screw side.

Posted
no, its not.

you simply installed the carb sliding valve the wrong way around.

one side has a thin slot from top to bottom and the other side has a fat half-way slot for the idle-screw.

just made sure fat half-way slot is at the idle-screw side.

 

Thanks for the reply bro, do I need to fix it back in this case? If I were to fix it, can I do it myself or do I need to let someone professional to do it? And if you're feeling kind enough can you briefly explain to me how to do it in simple english. :x

.

Posted

did u remove the top of carb n pull out the slide valve?

 

or it just the rpm needle indicate 4k, not the engine running at 4k rpm?

 

if it just the rpm indicator then it is instrument fault.

Posted
did u remove the top of carb n pull out the slide valve?

 

or it just the rpm needle indicate 4k, not the engine running at 4k rpm?

 

if it just the rpm indicator then it is instrument fault.

 

I believe that the engine is running at 4k rpm, so I'll have to remove the top of the carb and pull out the slide valve?

.

Posted (edited)
I believe that the engine is running at 4k rpm, so I'll have to remove the top of the carb and pull out the slide valve?

 

question:

u didn't do anything, how did your engine run at 4k rpm?

 

did u adjust the idle-screw or fiddle with the carb?

 

if u didn't do anything at all, i suspect tat the carb jet-needle broke.

if u can ride ur bike to cka then do so n let them repair.

 

the carb jet-needle weakest point is its slot neck, due to steel clip matching with aluminum needle plus engine vibration it will break off after sometime.

 

i applied water-pipe sealant tape at the slots area before clip n insert in the slide valve.

since u r newbie, u probably need cka for repair.

just advise them to applied sealant tape at the slot area before putting the steel clip.

Edited by stsoh
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi This is my first post. Ive owned a 2008 Daelim Roadwin 125 since October. It's developed a knocking sound. I brought it to a mechanic and he said first it was the cam chain - told me he replaced it. Then when it came back a few days later he said it was a worn camshaft probably, so he took it in again. He said when he opened the engine the camshaft was fine but he had to replace something else (I live in Korea and don't speak Korean so working through a friend who was translating I'm not sure what he fixed). The same sound is there now and I just don't want to go back to the same guy again. This would be the 4th or 5th time I'd be dropping it in to him since I bought it and I'm feeling a bit ripped off at this stage. Same sound after three visits to fix it. Anyway, I've uploaded a video to youtube where you can hear the sound. Its not as bad as it's been but still there. Should I be worried about causing damage to it by driving it now? I don't have the cash to get it fixed til the end of the month and I'm dying to go for a ride.

 

Any help is really appreciated

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ldm3DceT3as

Posted

Hi This is my first post. Ive owned a 2008 Daelim Roadwin 125 since October. It's developed a knocking sound. I brought it to a mechanic and he said first it was the cam chain - told me he replaced it. Then when it came back a few days later he said it was a worn camshaft probably, so he took it in again. He said when he opened the engine the camshaft was fine but he had to replace something else (I live in Korea and don't speak Korean so working through a friend who was translating I'm not sure what he fixed). The same sound is there now and I just don't want to go back to the same guy again. This would be the 4th or 5th time I'd be dropping it in to him since I bought it and I'm feeling a bit ripped off at this stage. Same sound after three visits to fix it. Anyway, I've uploaded a video to youtube where you can hear the sound. Its not as bad as it's been but still there. Should I be worried about causing damage to it by driving it now? I don't have the cash to get it fixed til the end of the month and I'm dying to go for a ride.

 

Any help is really appreciated

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ldm3DceT3as

Posted (edited)
Hi This is my first post. Ive owned a 2008 Daelim Roadwin 125 since October. It's developed a knocking sound. I brought it to a mechanic and he said first it was the cam chain - told me he replaced it. Then when it came back a few days later he said it was a worn camshaft probably, so he took it in again. He said when he opened the engine the camshaft was fine but he had to replace something else (I live in Korea and don't speak Korean so working through a friend who was translating I'm not sure what he fixed). The same sound is there now and I just don't want to go back to the same guy again. This would be the 4th or 5th time I'd be dropping it in to him since I bought it and I'm feeling a bit ripped off at this stage. Same sound after three visits to fix it. Anyway, I've uploaded a video to youtube where you can hear the sound. Its not as bad as it's been but still there. Should I be worried about causing damage to it by driving it now? I don't have the cash to get it fixed til the end of the month and I'm dying to go for a ride.

 

Any help is really appreciated

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ldm3DceT3as

 

sound is not from cam/cam chain/tappets clearance, very odd knocking sound.

did u change the cam chain tensioner?

why don't u find a better mech or goto daelim agent shop?

it also doesn't sound like it's from the exhaust header.

if it is cracked, sound like metal2metal knocking at each other.

do a check both side of the exhaust header whether the inner sleeve is crack or not

(pls use loctite for exhaust nuts when assemble back).

it's common for the exhaust header inner sleeve to crack due to extreme heat and vibrations,

plus the differences heat expansions of two metals.

i am using mod stainless steel exhaust header, sold by daelim agent in sillypore.

will crack eventually but can be weld externally.

in worst case, u need to strip the entire engine to inspect the cause of it.

good luck.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

Thanks. I'm not sure what's been done at this stage. I was told a new cam chain went on but at this stage I have no idea what he's actually done. When I went back with the knocking sound and an oil leak after he fixed it he told me that it was a different sound, but it sounded the exact same to me, same rhythm and tone. The last time I saw him he said he showed me photos of the bike with the engine stripped down and some photos of what looked like springs to me and said he replaced them and that they were on the chain side of the bike. He said it cost more than he had asked for the cam shaft replacement and that he wasn't charging me for it. I don't know what he's done but the same problem is there after a few trips top him so I just don't trust him now. He may not have replaced anything. There seems to be a new seal gone on but its protruding out from between the parts - cosmetic I'm sure, but it just looks sloppy to me. New mechanic when I get paid

Posted
Thanks. I'm not sure what's been done at this stage. I was told a new cam chain went on but at this stage I have no idea what he's actually done. When I went back with the knocking sound and an oil leak after he fixed it he told me that it was a different sound, but it sounded the exact same to me, same rhythm and tone. The last time I saw him he said he showed me photos of the bike with the engine stripped down and some photos of what looked like springs to me and said he replaced them and that they were on the chain side of the bike. He said it cost more than he had asked for the cam shaft replacement and that he wasn't charging me for it. I don't know what he's done but the same problem is there after a few trips top him so I just don't trust him now. He may not have replaced anything. There seems to be a new seal gone on but its protruding out from between the parts - cosmetic I'm sure, but it just looks sloppy to me. New mechanic when I get paid

 

suggest u go to daelim agent for repairs.

here in sillypore no bike shop willing to repair daelim bikes, so we had no choice but to service at daelim agent.

the agent here is very supportive even tot they dun make money on daelim alone.

now they have to diversify to other make brands, anyway sillypore is getting too expensive riding mopeds.

the garmen here implements pay n pay policy, so all sillyporeans r suck dry.

the island now only cater for millionaires n billionaires.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Is it normal that the engine vibrate more violently then 2 stroke bikes even at lower rpm?. And is there gear 'ceiling?.' Cos i can keep kicking up and down even its at the lowest or highest gear. Hope someone could clarify, thanks!.

Posted (edited)
Is it normal that the engine vibrate more violently then 2 stroke bikes even at lower rpm?. And is there gear 'ceiling?.' Cos i can keep kicking up and down even its at the lowest or highest gear. Hope someone could clarify, thanks!.

 

at low rpm, it shouldnt be violent at all.

best u let cka mech check on your problem.

or maybe u just need to get use to it, its not as violent as HD.

 

gearshift, there r 5 + neutral.

u can shift up to fifth n down to first gear.

changing gears at around 4~5,000 rpm.

to save fuel, shift gears at 4,000 rpm.

usually i change gears at 4,500 rpm.

in a rush, shift at 5,000 rpm, will use more fuel.

 

on stop (stand still) to move, it is best to use first gear.

going round the corners, best at third gear.

filter out to expressway, shift to fourth gear, get ready to rush forth (cheong) onto main expressway.

 

any problems, it is best to check with cka-hq mech.

in doubt, ask roy (chief mech? cum saleman cum frontdesk).

Edited by stsoh
Posted
at low rpm, it shouldnt be violent at all.

best u let cka mech check on your problem.

or maybe u just need to get use to it, its not as violent as HD.

 

gearshift, there r 5 + neutral.

u can shift up to fifth n down to first gear.

changing gears at around 4~5,000 rpm.

to save fuel, shift gears at 4,000 rpm.

usually i change gears at 4,500 rpm.

in a rush, shift at 5,000 rpm, will use more fuel.

 

on stop (stand still) to move, it is best to use first gear.

going round the corners, best at third gear.

filter out to expressway, shift to fourth gear, get ready to rush forth (cheong) onto main expressway.

 

any problems, it is best to check with cka-hq mech.

in doubt, ask roy (chief mech? cum saleman cum frontdesk).

 

hahah, when I was reading this post, I'm like checking answers for exam, whether if I'm doing the same also.

 

Anyway, do you normally shift to second gear quickly? I realize my first gear really cannot make it.

.

Posted
at low rpm, it shouldnt be violent at all.

best u let cka mech check on your problem.

or maybe u just need to get use to it, its not as violent as HD.

 

gearshift, there r 5 + neutral.

u can shift up to fifth n down to first gear.

changing gears at around 4~5,000 rpm.

to save fuel, shift gears at 4,000 rpm.

usually i change gears at 4,500 rpm.

in a rush, shift at 5,000 rpm, will use more fuel.

 

on stop (stand still) to move, it is best to use first gear.

going round the corners, best at third gear.

filter out to expressway, shift to fourth gear, get ready to rush forth (cheong) onto main expressway.

 

any problems, it is best to check with cka-hq mech.

in doubt, ask roy (chief mech? cum saleman cum frontdesk).

 

hahah, when I was reading this post, I'm like checking answers for exam, whether if I'm doing the same also.

 

Anyway, do you normally shift to second gear quickly? I realize my first gear really cannot make it.

.

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