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Posted (edited)
hahah, when I was reading this post, I'm like checking answers for exam, whether if I'm doing the same also.

 

Anyway, do you normally shift to second gear quickly? I realize my first gear really cannot make it.

 

first gear is the tallest, produce the most torque available.

moving up the rpm very fast, tats why the need to shift to second gear quick.

 

depends on ur sprocket ratios (rear spt divided by front spt).

i did some trials n settle on 2.9 sprocket ratio, ie front sprocket 15t n rear sprocket 44t.

stock ratio is 3.0 (42/14), tried 2.6 (40t/15t), 2.7 (41t/15t) 2.8 (42t/15t) n 2.86 (43t/15t).

tats the reason i settled on 2.9, a little less than stock but still good.

 

if u want good pickup (acceleration) than use ratio more than 3.0.

stock 42/14 is the same as 45/15 = 3.0.

u can try 45/14 = 3.2 or any higher ratio, of course if rev above 10k rpm, it will vibrate like hell.

Edited by stsoh
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Posted (edited)
Anyone changed their rims before?

 

no, stock rims r very good n strong, why change it when its not broken?

Edited by stsoh
Posted
.........

any problems, it is best to check with cka-hq mech.

......................................................................

in doubt, ask roy (chief mech? cum saleman cum frontdesk cum store manager).

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

hi all, I just passed 2b test and am now looking for a 2b street bike. Quite interested in daelim roadwin 150. Got a few questions though:

 

1. how is the reliability compare to honda/yamaha/bajaj in similar category?

2. is service expensive or not? read from above can only go to agent. How ofter in terms of time/mileage does this bike need to be serviced?

3. with the heavier weight compared to other 2b bikes, how is the acceleration and top speed like? I don't plan to ride very fast but sure want to be able to keep up in expressway middle lane which sometimes is around 90.

 

many thx

Posted (edited)
hi all, I just passed 2b test and am now looking for a 2b street bike. Quite interested in daelim roadwin 150. Got a few questions though:

 

1. how is the reliability compare to honda/yamaha/bajaj in similar category?

many ppl r turn down daelim becoz of made-in-korea.

reliability is as good as honda, reason is daelim produce small motorcycle parts for honda.

sole agent in sillypore is cka, pls visit them.

http://www.cka.com.sg

https://www.facebook.com/pages/CKA/153608932449

 

2. is service expensive or not? read from above can only go to agent. How ofter in terms of time/mileage does this bike need to be serviced?

expensive or not depends on individual pockets, i say it is not expensive, ie. for me, others may not.

engine or electrical parts, it is best get parts/services from agent.

consumables like battery, bulbs, tyres, chain, sprockets, brake pads, etc.....get from any bike shops whom can provide u with best deals/services.

 

like any bikes, follow the owners manual recommended maintenance schedule (pg 32 n 33).

download link:

http://www.mojomotorcycles.com.au/support/Daelim/Owners%20Manuals/Daelim%20Roadwin%20125cc%20Owners%20Manual.pdf

 

3. with the heavier weight compared to other 2b bikes, how is the acceleration and top speed like? I don't plan to ride very fast but sure want to be able to keep up in expressway middle lane which sometimes is around 90.

 

many thx

 

daelim roadwin can consider as full size bike, due to its size if park along with superbikes, its about their size n its weight is far lighter.

for a newbie, it may be too heavy if u can handle 135kg.

due to weight, size n big tyres (more drag due to larger road contact) with small cc low power engine,

it is not fast to compete with lighter n more agile mopeds.

max speed is 108 kph, no problem cruising at 90 kph on sillypore expressway.

 

problem is many owners doesnt like the tremendous vibrations at top end 10,000 rpm.

as long as u dont ride at 10,000 rpm, it wont vibs too much, getting use to it.

engine is a simple 4-valves, becoz it doesnt has a balance shaft like other 2b, hence vibrations at top rpm.

vibration can be quelled down by put more load on engine, simplify by change stock sprockets (14t/42t) n use sprockets 15t front n 40t rear.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

Hi i just got a Roadwin X5 about a month back and its been going fine without a problem. However, lately i realised something strange. When i got the bike it used to idle slightly about the 2k rpm line and i will only hit 100kmh at around 9k rpm. Recently its been idling below 1k rpm and will hit 100kmh at 8k rpm. Is this something normal or is there something wrong with my gauges?

Posted

i think your speedometer is not read correctly, sometime high sometime low.

mechanically engine rpm couple to rear wheel drive via chain is fix, so speed is constant.

speedometer is driven non-contact magnetic force against a spring-calibrated indicator needle with error of 10%.

 

u can drip a couple (2 or 3) drops of oil into the speedometer cable to lubricate the spindling cable so tat u dun have much deviations.

or it can be an indication tat your speedometer cable is about to break.

Posted

So my speedo might be off but my RPM gauge is correct?

I tested my bike going at 100kmh with my friends bike and the speed seemed to match though.

 

i think your speedometer is not read correctly, sometime high sometime low.

mechanically engine rpm couple to rear wheel drive via chain is fix, so speed is constant.

speedometer is driven non-contact magnetic force against a spring-calibrated indicator needle with error of 10%.

 

u can drip a couple (2 or 3) drops of oil into the speedometer cable to lubricate the spindling cable so tat u dun have much deviations.

or it can be an indication tat your speedometer cable is about to break.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
So my speedo might be off but my RPM gauge is correct?

I tested my bike going at 100kmh with my friends bike and the speed seemed to match though.

 

rpm meter use the ignition impulse signal (electrical) from the engine. its more accurate than speedometer which run mechanical from wheel hub via cable to spin a magnet thus using magnetic contact-less force to a spring-calibrated needle to indicate speed which will gives more error at higher speed.

 

if u change the front tire profile eg. 110/60 or 110/70, it will gives u a difference speed reading.

over time when the tire worn off 1~2mm will gives different speed reading.

tire circumference change thus the change in speed readings.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

u need to visit those pannier/box agents/resellers, if not try asking roy @ hq-cka.

box racks on rw r all custom mounted, tats y u see different racks on rw.

Posted (edited)
is there an after market airfilter for the roadwin r 125

 

there r no after market airfilter for roadwin or roadwin R.

u need to be innovative on how to do mod things if u want something tat u wish for.

i can tell u with mod air filter, it will not improve performance.

EFI will compensate watever air-flow mass to fuel ratio via O2 sensor accordance to factory fuel map.

unless u r able to change the factory fuel map, with better air-flow mass and more fuel injected will gives better performance.

 

if u r really keen, i did a mod using KnN air-filter model RU-1750. this is a go-kart air-filter.

i believe rwR airbox is the same as rw, u need to measure it to ensure fitting.

i cut the top tube off n trim top surface, also remove metal top from oem air-fliter glue it using silastic adhesive.

then trim bottom surface n corner to fit, height is about 2mm taller than oem air-filter.

almost perfection, tight fit.

 

now tat i have mass air-flow, retuned carburetor for performance (change main-jet n slow-jet to one size bigger, plus shim jet-needle clip between slot 2 n 3) n also a mass-flow exhaust header, beware too much can kill performance. i had one inch diameter SS header tat kill performance, had to restrict exhaust flow by weld 3/4 inch hole steel washers at both ends which does it job for performance.

 

its not just change one thing if u want performance but a string of works ie. input --> product --> output.

if u wish to do all this, good luck.

 

there is a simple way to improve performance, change the rear sprocket from stock 42t to 45t.

it will improve acceleration n fuel consumption, if u understand the mechanic of pulleys.

on the down side is the top speed will reduce, i think rwR top speed is higer than rw, reduction is about

 

benefits of acceleration n fuel consumption out-weights top speed which we dont always ride at.

Edited by stsoh
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi guys, new to the forum. Stumbled upon this site while I was looking for some parts. Could anyone tell me how much a stator will cost and availability in sg for an 04 carby roadwin? Mine is burnt. :| cheers.

Posted
Hi guys, new to the forum. Stumbled upon this site while I was looking for some parts. Could anyone tell me how much a stator will cost and availability in sg for an 04 carby roadwin? Mine is burnt. :| cheers.

 

contact cka - daelim agent in sillypore.

 

website:

http://www.cka.com.sg

 

or

 

facebook:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/CKA/153608932449?fref=ts

 

new stator probably cost around S$1xx.....pls call cka for pricing n parts availability.

  • 4 months later...
Posted

I hope this thread is not dead yet!

New Roadwin X5 150 user here!

 

I recently noticed that my bike will have this smoke like vapour effect coming out of the engine after travelling for about 20 mins++

this is normal right since the engine is air cooled?

Any thoughts fellow Roadwin users?

Posted

Hello guys, I have a 125 roadwin naked, and would like to change some things (mirrors, lights, speedo), where can I get ideas, know any site where sell accessories for roadwin? thanks for your help

  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...
Posted
Hey guys, there's a prob that I have been experiencing with my rw only when it's raining; be it while riding, or just start bike.

 

While riding in rainy weather for about 10 minutes, the engine will start to die off and not able to start again. Even if it does, it will go for about 100m and die off again.

 

When I come to a stop at traffic light junction, engine will die off once I start to throttle. And the same will happen like what I mentioned. Die off, start again, die off, and it continues.

 

Then, when my bike has been parked in the rain for few hours, I can't start the bike either. Only after many tries then it starts. So, thought of letting it idling for awhile to warm up, it dies off after about 10secs of idling.

 

Tried using the choke to assist in starting as well, but not much of a use.

 

It isn't so bad now cos I went to CKA Hq to get it checked and changed some casing that's at the engine (no idea what that was).

 

But the problem is still there. Anyone experiencing the same or has experienced such before??

 

Thanks!

 

your air filter is dirty and cause your bike too rich

Posted
there r no after market airfilter for roadwin or roadwin R.

u need to be innovative on how to do mod things if u want something tat u wish for.

i can tell u with mod air filter, it will not improve performance.

EFI will compensate watever air-flow mass to fuel ratio via O2 sensor accordance to factory fuel map.

unless u r able to change the factory fuel map, with better air-flow mass and more fuel injected will gives better performance.

 

if u r really keen, i did a mod using KnN air-filter model RU-1750. this is a go-kart air-filter.

i believe rwR airbox is the same as rw, u need to measure it to ensure fitting.

i cut the top tube off n trim top surface, also remove metal top from oem air-fliter glue it using silastic adhesive.

then trim bottom surface n corner to fit, height is about 2mm taller than oem air-filter.

almost perfection, tight fit.

 

now tat i have mass air-flow, retuned carburetor for performance (change main-jet n slow-jet to one size bigger, plus shim jet-needle clip between slot 2 n 3) n also a mass-flow exhaust header, beware too much can kill performance. i had one inch diameter SS header tat kill performance, had to restrict exhaust flow by weld 3/4 inch hole steel washers at both ends which does it job for performance.

 

its not just change one thing if u want performance but a string of works ie. input --> product --> output.

if u wish to do all this, good luck.

 

there is a simple way to improve performance, change the rear sprocket from stock 42t to 45t.

it will improve acceleration n fuel consumption, if u understand the mechanic of pulleys.

on the down side is the top speed will reduce, i think rwR top speed is higer than rw, reduction is about

 

benefits of acceleration n fuel consumption out-weights top speed which we dont always ride at.

 

i remove the airbox and use k and n air filter connect directly to the carp and do setting the oil to richer and power increase a lot

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
i remove the airbox and use k and n air filter connect directly to the carp and do setting the oil to richer and power increase a lot

 

wat a surprise.....didnt know there r still rw rider(s).

 

if u want to tune ur carb, seek roy's help @CKA hq.

 

i gave him a lot of tiny mica washers, just install one washer under the jet-needle clip (@ top 2nd slot).

 

jet-needle clip@2nd slot=lean.

jet-needle [email protected] slot=just right i.e. for me, not sure for u or others.

jet-needle clip@3rd slot=rich.

 

becoz the clip is steel, it will wear off the jet-needle where it is slotted due to vibration.

applied water-pipe sealing tape around the slot grooves, two rounds should be enough.

then install the clip onto the second slot n slid the tiny mica washer under the clip.

 

pilot(air)-screw set @ 1.75 turns (i.e. 1 3/4 turns).

done.

 

performance-wise is better but do not forget this is a 125/140cc tat only has 10~11hp.

dun expect it to out run a kup. ;)

 

ps,

i forgot to mention, i changed my carb slow n main-jets one size up.

wat r their sizes? i cant recall......

if oem slow-jet was #38, then i've installed was #40.

if oem main-jet was #100, then i've installed was #102.

jets r cheap, price is S$6~8 each, 10 yrs ago diy.

u should just try jet-needle clip with washer first.

 

pps,

my exhaust header is one inch diameter stainless steel with 3/4" diameter hole steel washers welded at both ends.

if u understand bigger exhaust header diameter will gives poorer engine performance. tats why i had washers with smaller hole welded at both ends.

steel header is brought from cka, they dun understand the significant of tuning an engine.

moreover they (cka) offer to pierce a hole thru the baffle plate of the muffler which i refused.

diy my own mod, removed the muffler silencer pipe with is secure by four rivets tat can be remove n re-riveted any time.

oem exhaust header, its inner sleeve will crack over time due to heat n vibration. one day u will hear a kang..kang...metal knocking sound tat when u know the sleeve have cracked n split-ed.

Edited by stsoh
Posted

a word of caution regarding oem (daelim) spark plug.

a few times engine die-off whilst riding @ 50~60kmh.

its dangerous, any vehicle can crash onto me when my bike sudden lost of speed.

i was quite puzzle about the sudden die-off, my intuition is to throw away the plug n install my old iridium plug back.

i thought oem plug is good but not to expectation, its less than 1000 km usage.

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