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Posted

Hi guys, just doing some research here as online got very little opinions on these bikes. Looking to switch to Super 4 Revo or CB400F for my class 2A. Between the two whats the pros and cons? Like what should i be comparing to see which one i want to get.


First Bike - Yamaha YZF-R15 V2

http://i59.tinypic.com/2iw8wtc.jpg

Second Bike - CB400SF Revo

http://i66.tinypic.com/3492cdc.png


2B License - December 19 2013

2A License - 23 March 2015

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Posted
Hi guys, just doing some research here as online got very little opinions on these bikes. Looking to switch to Super 4 Revo or CB400F for my class 2A. Between the two whats the pros and cons? Like what should i be comparing to see which one i want to get.

 

Was in the same dilemma as you weeks ago.

 

Choose the revo eventually due to the 4 in-lines engine proven good records for the past many years and vtec.

 

The pro for 400f is the low fuel consumption, runs cooler and cheaper.

 

I sit on both and they gives me the same feel. To add on the equation, I tried the 400x too and found that it was a bit too high for me.

 

It is a tough choice, both are good bikes. Depending on what you like, power (4 in-lines) or good fuel consumption (parallel twin).

 

The 2014 revo is already out in some bike shop; difference is the inclusion of the gear indicator. I got the past model instead due to budget and warranty from BS.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
How often is the inner exhaust to rust or have brown colour on it?

see picture circle in red.[ATTACH=CONFIG]314344[/ATTACH]

 

I read that it is normal that the pipe will discolour into a light copper shade colour; my less than 1 month old revo has it too.

 

Think it take months or longer for rust to take place then and I mean very bad rust due to lack of maintenance.

Posted

ic guess it normal to have discolor there.

I bought the bike waiting for the bike shop to do transaction, did some inspection early.

Just that i haven't start ridding the bike the brown is already there.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

hi ,

during cbr400r bike run in state. rpm and speed should not go beyond how much?

As i just change from phantom to cbr400r still not firm on which gear should change at which speed.

Any recommendation?

Posted

Just change at 4-5k rpm first until you've completed the run-in. And until you're very comfortable with the bike, keep changing gear around that range too.

 

It doesn't have big power but since you're jumping from a phantom, it might catch you off if you try to play around at 7-8k rpm. Just a suggestion.

 

Ride safe.

Posted
Just change at 4-5k rpm first until you've completed the run-in. And until you're very comfortable with the bike, keep changing gear around that range too.

 

It doesn't have big power but since you're jumping from a phantom, it might catch you off if you try to play around at 7-8k rpm. Just a suggestion.

 

Ride safe.

 

I think 5-6krpm can catch him off redi, the power start to kick in. but likewise 4-5 is good for relaxed ride.

in search of the magical fuel penguins

Honda CB400F

Posted
Just change at 4-5k rpm first until you've completed the run-in. And until you're very comfortable with the bike, keep changing gear around that range too.

 

It doesn't have big power but since you're jumping from a phantom, it might catch you off if you try to play around at 7-8k rpm. Just a suggestion.

 

Ride safe.

 

yeowj1987, thank alot for the tips you given me all this while.

Like you told me b4 during run in dun hit above 6krpm roughly below 80km/h.

The change gear at 4-5k rpm?

Mean 1st gear hit 4-5k rpm change to 2nd gear and so on?

4-5k rpm roughly at 20km/h?

 

 

I think 5-6krpm can catch him off redi, the power start to kick in. but likewise 4-5 is good for relaxed ride.

 

robbedzombie, thank for the advice.

i ridding at 5krpm the most now

Posted

No need to look at the speed too much to change gear. Understand your previous bike might not have tachometer, but basically gear changing depends more on rpm and not really speed at a certain gear. Just change around 4-5krpm is fine.

 

Anyway, better to spend more time looking at the road ahead than staring at the tachometer/speedometer. Cheers.

Posted
how much the 2013 revo from BS?

Can pm me?

 

If you are referring to the 2013 model, without gear indicator, Bs Is no longer selling as of end of Sep. There may be some other shops selling this remaining model with BS warranty. I got mine last month from another shop instead with 1 year warranty by BS.

 

As for 2014 model, with gear indicator, BS has yet to bring it in as of early last month. However, there are parallel imports selling at about $19k when I checked last month.

Posted

Double posted.

My posts are based on peaceful discussion, honest questions happy jokes. If for any personal reason u find my post not suiting your ego, scrolling and clicking is always faster than typing. Not hearing my retorts to your rude remarks only means I have confirmed that your upbringing is that of barbarians.

 

Your Perspective on life comes from the cage you were held captive in. - Shannon L. Alder

Posted
yeowj1987, thank alot for the tips you given me all this while.

Like you told me b4 during run in dun hit above 6krpm roughly below 80km/h.

The change gear at 4-5k rpm?

Mean 1st gear hit 4-5k rpm change to 2nd gear and so on?

4-5k rpm roughly at 20km/h?

 

Oh dear, I am doing 3-5k RPM and i do let my bike run to around 90+km/hr for 4 times since i collected my bike on 14th November, wonder if it will have a negative effect my bike after the run-in... >_

My posts are based on peaceful discussion, honest questions happy jokes. If for any personal reason u find my post not suiting your ego, scrolling and clicking is always faster than typing. Not hearing my retorts to your rude remarks only means I have confirmed that your upbringing is that of barbarians.

 

Your Perspective on life comes from the cage you were held captive in. - Shannon L. Alder

Posted
Oh dear, I am doing 3-5k RPM and i do let my bike run to around 90+km/hr for 4 times since i collected my bike on 14th November, wonder if it will have a negative effect my bike after the run-in... >_

 

Don't worry, your bike won't die one. Nowadays technology had advanced and most vehicle does not need proper run in. Old school of taught is the parts tolerance are imperfect, so running in will season the parts to mate properly with each other. Nowadays quality control is so good, you can practically ride the bike normally once out of the shop. Beside all bikes are started and rev at the assembly line to make sure it is working before shipped out. It has been "raped" once by the tester already.

 

However just to have a piece of mind, owner will still want to do a proper run in. Overshot will not mean your bike will explode or damage anything. I remember not seeing any run in condition on the 2013 Honda CBR600RR owner manual. So I assume Honda had do away with it.

 

For me, I will not do hard acceleration during the "run in" period. I will simply do gentle acceleration and slowly increase my RPM. For example, I start off with 3000pm, after ride around 5 mins, I go towards 4000rpm and so on. The most important thing is actually to change the oil at the first 1000km or as per recommended in the manual.

Posted
Don't worry, your bike won't die one. Nowadays technology had advanced and most vehicle does not need proper run in. Old school of taught is the parts tolerance are imperfect, so running in will season the parts to mate properly with each other. Nowadays quality control is so good, you can practically ride the bike normally once out of the shop. Beside all bikes are started and rev at the assembly line to make sure it is working before shipped out. It has been "raped" once by the tester already.

 

However just to have a piece of mind, owner will still want to do a proper run in. Overshot will not mean your bike will explode or damage anything. I remember not seeing any run in condition on the 2013 Honda CBR600RR owner manual. So I assume Honda had do away with it.

 

For me, I will not do hard acceleration during the "run in" period. I will simply do gentle acceleration and slowly increase my RPM. For example, I start off with 3000pm, after ride around 5 mins, I go towards 4000rpm and so on. The most important thing is actually to change the oil at the first 1000km or as per recommended in the manual.

kinwei

Thank for the infor, the bike mech also told me now day technology advance, run in can even hit 100km/h.

he mentioned 1 important thing to take note that is no hard acceleration just go for smooth accelerate will do the job.

 

yeowj1987,

phantom dun have taco meter so i listen to the engine sound last time.

For the cbr400r, i also listen to the engine sound.

i usually change gear at 3-4k rpm as the engine sound start to get louder.

Especially at gear 1 will change gear faster.

Forcus on the road is more important than the taco meter.

Unless chio bu walk pass will cause distraction hahaha.

Posted

I realise the rear tire need to rotate to an angle(the valve facing downward) then can pump.

Anyone know where got sell the L-shape adapter for pump tire?

http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/general-discussion/796543d1367819930-air-compressor-presta-adapter-silca-disc-wheel-adapter-l.jpg

Posted
If you are referring to the 2013 model, without gear indicator, Bs Is no longer selling as of end of Sep. There may be some other shops selling this remaining model with BS warranty. I got mine last month from another shop instead with 1 year warranty by BS.

 

As for 2014 model, with gear indicator, BS has yet to bring it in as of early last month. However, there are parallel imports selling at about $19k when I checked last month.

 

Hi bro, which bike shop did u get ur bike? Care to share the price.?

Which shop selling the 2014 model and the 19k is machine price?

Thanks.

Posted
Hi bro, which bike shop did u get ur bike? Care to share the price.?

Which shop selling the 2014 model and the 19k is machine price?

Thanks.

 

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