Yamaha FJR1300

[sakio]

New rider here.Just came back from melacca.. 1st road trip after I got my 03 1 month ago.. Went there with my gf. Heng bike nv fail me but seems my shaft oil leaks .. Tml go bikeshop fix.. Any fellow fjr-ians wan to join for future trip?

[quick789]

Can Gen 2 FJR shield fit my Gen 1 FJR?

 

Thank you

 

Im selling my Gen 2 stock wind shield @ $80 condition 9/10 cos bike sold

Bought an adventure touring bike. Only left stock wind shield.

The resy all dekit or go with bike liao...

[kmkoon]

New rider here.Just came back from melacca.. 1st road trip after I got my 03 1 month ago.. Went there with my gf. Heng bike nv fail me but seems my shaft oil leaks .. Tml go bikeshop fix.. Any fellow fjr-ians wan to join for future trip?

 

Sure maybe can go 1 day trip..

[william_2981]

Can Gen 2 FJR shield fit my Gen 1 FJR?

 

Thank you

 

Bro, im not sure man... pls check b4 u buy cos once bought no refund... lol

[william_2981]

Hi bro @DaBonz, appreciate your advise. Btw which shaft should i send for re-grease?

Lastly, i heard that fjr rear shock tends to worn off or breakdown easily. is it true?

 

Thanks!

 

I did my shaft servicing at Bikeworkz.... done by boss

He will know wat to do but be prepared to spend whole day for this. I believe some fjrider

Did theirs there too as per recommended... price pls check with boss directly.

[william_2981]

Ive rode my gen 2 fjr serve me well. Corner grind till rider footpagz at 45 degree angle is

very stable (stock front n rear suspension been set)on my M5 tyres. When heavy rain juzt pull up my ermax windscreen

To block off rain. Turn on my HID 3000k foglight when on NSHW. Upgraded Brambo RCS for more efficient brakeing

And Brambo RCS clutch master pump n steel clutch line for ez and alot softer feel when pulling ur clutch. And many many more. Its a good ride n never fail me on long distance trip. My bike is fully done up from top to bottom n even customised back rest for passanger. Those who know me will know my bike good history but sad to sell it cos alot of effort n memorable rides on it... Y^Y

Its one of the best reliable tourer ard in the market.

Good luck to the new owner who bought my bike.

[william_2981]

Selling my orginal GTR concourse Redial mount clutch pump @ $280. Once u fix it on and u won't regret but

Ofcos cant compare with Brambo RCS clutch pump.

The GTR clutch pump is easier n smoother when pulling in clutch n won't have tat heavy feel when pulling as compared

with Stock fjr clutch pump. Clutch n brakes fuild changed every 4 months so clutch pump in good working condition.

My lost is everybodys gain...

[william_2981]

Those interested in my GTR radial mount clutch pump ($280) n FJR gen 2 orginal windshield ($80)

Can msg me at 96946766.

Both item 1st come 1st serve n no reservation.

Low ballers if u feel its too ex then save ur msg for others...

[DaBonz]

Hi bro @DaBonz, appreciate your advise. Btw which shaft should i send for re-grease?

Lastly, i heard that fjr rear shock tends to worn off or breakdown easily. is it true?

 

Thanks!

 

I did my shaft servicing at Bikeworkz.... done by boss

He will know wat to do but be prepared to spend whole day for this. I believe some fjrider

Did theirs there too as per recommended... price pls check with boss directly.

 

Mine done at Bikeworkz too. I changed my rear shocks and front springs aft 2yrs. But mine cos of my weight lar. I heavyweight.

 

I interested in Hepco box.. Becoz square look, you u know where to get? And how much it cost?

 

hepco can get at ChiapLee or Mteknik. I dunno the price cos I dont use. I use a cheap pelican type China box. Good enuff for me.

[confusehaha]

Mine done at Bikeworkz too. I changed my rear shocks and front springs aft 2yrs. But mine cos of my weight lar. I heavyweight.

 

 

 

 

i see.. bro @DaBonz, where did you purchase ur aftermarket shock and sprinh from?

what is the price of them?

after replace is the handling better compare to stock? will stock rear shock bottom out easily?

thanks.

[DaBonz]

i see.. bro @DaBonz, where did you purchase ur aftermarket shock and sprinh from?

what is the price of them?

after replace is the handling better compare to stock? will stock rear shock bottom out easily?

thanks.

 

Im using the hyperpro streetbox set from Motorworld. $950 for rear shock + front springs. Definitely better cos my stock shocks were completely soft. It's gd enough for me cos I don't really fiddle with my set up much. If you have the budget can go for better set. Plenty of choices like Wilburs, Bitubo, Ohlins, Penske, etc.. depends on ur preference.

[jimmyvfr]

mine is a 04 model... so wear and tear slowly come up.. when i parked my bike on mainstand... i try turn the rear wheel but seems kinda of difficult.. then i tried press and release my rear brake. wheel is back normal turning.. guess something wrong with my rear brake... last change brake fluid in Nov..any bros here know what exactly need to be done...or the seal in brake pump need servicing? pls advise.....

[jimmyvfr]

With a bike that age, I doubt any shop can guarantee you it won't break down.

 

Parts that failed over the past 10 yrs that caught me off guard and aint attributed to any maintenance error ...

 

1) Shaft spline seal

2) Coolant pump seal

3) fork oil leak at adjuster cap

4) Charging coil

5) Ignition switch

6) Pick up Coil

7) Rear suspension oil leak

8) Rear wheel bearing

 

As you can see, some are wear and tear stuff. I haven't include those that I replaced as preventive maintenance. So If you have most of these items replaced recently, you should be quite safe.

 

Bro omnislash..some question to ask u.. i plan to change my clutch housing in Aug.... and also change my rear wheel bearing...what is shaft spline seal? care to explain? and what does it play a part? and when i go bikerwerks...how to tell boss i wana change my rear wheel bearing? is it whole set like clutch? cos in Jan i change my clutch metal piece and pad but never change my clutch housing..only then my fren tell me then i know..i shld have change whole set plus clutch housing.. so this thime for rear wheel bearing i must do my homeworks ask properly and do all one shot.. frankly speaking now i also don knw how my status of rear wheel bearing.....is it must wait got problem then change... its a 8 yr bike..... pls advise.....sorry so many questions as i just rode 7 mths still many to learnt from bros riding FJR long time...

[omnislash]

Bro omnislash..some question to ask u.. i plan to change my clutch housing in Aug.... and also change my rear wheel bearing...what is shaft spline seal? care to explain? and what does it play a part? and when i go bikerwerks...how to tell boss i wana change my rear wheel bearing? is it whole set like clutch? cos in Jan i change my clutch metal piece and pad but never change my clutch housing..only then my fren tell me then i know..i shld have change whole set plus clutch housing.. so this thime for rear wheel bearing i must do my homeworks ask properly and do all one shot.. frankly speaking now i also don knw how my status of rear wheel bearing.....is it must wait got problem then change... its a 8 yr bike..... pls advise.....sorry so many questions as i just rode 7 mths still many to learnt from bros riding FJR long time...

 

Hmmm... I actually just send my bike to Racewerks for clutch plate replacement (it "lasted" 10 years and 200,000 km) as well.... I didn't replace the clutch housing, not sure why they say need to change. If you say change the clutch spring still make more sense as spring looses its tension over time... But clutch spring AM say nobody order before I assume no one replace before and nv give problem....

 

As for rear wheel bearing,

 

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/4/Make/Yamaha/YearID/45/Year/2004/ModelID/6048/Model/FJR1300/GroupID/244370/Group/REAR_WHEEL

 

Must have: item 2, 6, 10 (bearings)

Highly recommended to have: item 4 and 8 (Oil Seals)

good to have: item 5 and 7 (Collar) (you nv know if the mechanic is considerate enough in taking them out)

 

Item 2 alternate : SKF 6304-2RS1/C3

Item 10 alternate : NTN 6204LLUCM (you need to buy 2 of this cuz the yamaha part comes in a set of 2 bearings)

Item 6 dimension : Needle cage bearing ID-25 OD-34 Width-26

 

Item 6 doesn't have an exact interchangeable (at least during that time) but I got one thats 1mm shorter in width and it works fine. The bearings lasted longer than the stock ones.

 

You can save about 40-50% if you get these alternate brand bearings but they are pretty cheap from AM anyway. The main reason I bought alternate ones is because some of these bearings ain't in stock in AM (its a hell lot more ex if you buy from HL). I recommend you change the bearings when your tire is due, incur less labour charge... They shouldn't charge you more than 20 bucks on top of your wheel change price imho.

 

Bear in mind that mine is '03 model but i'm 99% sure they are the same. Item 6 appears as different Part # in the '03 and '04 IPC but the part number in the '03 IPC is actually superceded by the one in '04.

 

Shaft spline seal: There is one o-ring at your final drive hub around the shaft... It basically helps contain the oil in the hub... If the o-ring is worn, oil starts to leak to the shaft housing (swing arm)... There's a little weep hole at the shaft housing to drain out any oil leakage so its very obvious... Not rocket scientist knowledge.

[omnislash]

mine is a 04 model... so wear and tear slowly come up.. when i parked my bike on mainstand... i try turn the rear wheel but seems kinda of difficult.. then i tried press and release my rear brake. wheel is back normal turning.. guess something wrong with my rear brake... last change brake fluid in Nov..any bros here know what exactly need to be done...or the seal in brake pump need servicing? pls advise.....

 

Gen I model (Gen II as well I think) has a common problem that the rear brake lever doesn't retract back when the lever pivot point gets dry.... Some wd40 usually does the trick for a while.... Racewerk says the return spring in the rear master cylinder weak liao... Too bad, if you look up the IPC, the rear master pump comes as a set.... I considering to change too, 80 bucks from AM, cheap cheap....

[omnislash]

Gen I model (Gen II as well I think) has a common problem that the rear brake lever doesn't retract back when the lever pivot point gets dry.... Some wd40 usually does the trick for a while.... Racewerk says the return spring in the rear master cylinder weak liao... Too bad, if you look up the IPC, the rear master pump comes as a set.... I considering to change too, 80 bucks from AM, cheap cheap....

 

My bad, there is a replacement kit, 5JW-W0042-50.

[z3rokill]

Hi Fellow Riders,

 

If you're looking for something to ease the vibration of your grips, let me introduce you to Grab on Grips, an excellent yet cheap product from the US. Used heavily by tourers in the US, compatible with heated grips, BMW grips and etc.

 

Grab on Grips is a new idea in grips. Turn your present grips into comfortable foam grips with a minimum of work. Simply slip these high quality EPDM foam sleeves onto the existing grips for a great feel. All of our Comfort grips are made from closed cell Nitrile foam. Typically what causes rubber to break down is ozone. In our NPVC foam, antidegradants are used to improve the resistance to the effects of ozone and UV light. This material has a pleasant feel that provides a positive and comfortable grip.

 

Do follow the link in my signature for more information or you can text me straight at 8236 9923 - Hairul. Join countless others who have experience the satisfaction.

 

Pricing wise, this is a steal as if you order it yourself it comes to about $28.

 

Cheers and ride safe!

[gixxertan]

Hi everyone, I'm a FJR rider and a lurker in this thread. I know of a nice thai seafood restaurant in muar. Maybe we can organize a short makan trip?

[kmkoon]

Hi everyone, I'm a FJR rider and a lurker in this thread. I know of a nice thai seafood restaurant in muar. Maybe we can organize a short makan trip?

 

agree.. when??

[jimmyvfr]

Hmmm... I actually just send my bike to Racewerks for clutch plate replacement (it "lasted" 10 years and 200,000 km) as well.... I didn't replace the clutch housing, not sure why they say need to change. If you say change the clutch spring still make more sense as spring looses its tension over time... But clutch spring AM say nobody order before I assume no one replace before and nv give problem....

 

As for rear wheel bearing,

 

http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/4/Make/Yamaha/YearID/45/Year/2004/ModelID/6048/Model/FJR1300/GroupID/244370/Group/REAR_WHEEL

 

Must have: item 2, 6, 10 (bearings)

Highly recommended to have: item 4 and 8 (Oil Seals)

good to have: item 5 and 7 (Collar) (you nv know if the mechanic is considerate enough in taking them out)

 

Item 2 alternate : SKF 6304-2RS1/C3

Item 10 alternate : NTN 6204LLUCM (you need to buy 2 of this cuz the yamaha part comes in a set of 2 bearings)

Item 6 dimension : Needle cage bearing ID-25 OD-34 Width-26

 

Item 6 doesn't have an exact interchangeable (at least during that time) but I got one thats 1mm shorter in width and it works fine. The bearings lasted longer than the stock ones.

 

You can save about 40-50% if you get these alternate brand bearings but they are pretty cheap from AM anyway. The main reason I bought alternate ones is because some of these bearings ain't in stock in AM (its a hell lot more ex if you buy from HL). I recommend you change the bearings when your tire is due, incur less labour charge... They shouldn't charge you more than 20 bucks on top of your wheel change price imho.

 

Bear in mind that mine is '03 model but i'm 99% sure they are the same. Item 6 appears as different Part # in the '03 and '04 IPC but the part number in the '03 IPC is actually superceded by the one in '04.

 

Shaft spline seal: There is one o-ring at your final drive hub around the shaft... It basically helps contain the oil in the hub... If the o-ring is worn, oil starts to leak to the shaft housing (swing arm)... There's a little weep hole at the shaft housing to drain out any oil leakage so its very obvious... Not rocket scientist knowledge.

 

Thks alot Bro Omnislash......very detailed but a bit chim for me..appreciated it

[jimmyvfr]

Gen I model (Gen II as well I think) has a common problem that the rear brake lever doesn't retract back when the lever pivot point gets dry.... Some wd40 usually does the trick for a while.... Racewerk says the return spring in the rear master cylinder weak liao... Too bad, if you look up the IPC, the rear master pump comes as a set.... I considering to change too, 80 bucks from AM, cheap cheap....

 

You normally serviced yr bike at Racewerks ah?> how is the charge there? steep? mechanic experience?>

[confusehaha]

collecting my fjr tmr lo! hoo rey! btw need some recommendation on which brand and grade of eo shld i use?

lastly would like to know the place to re synchonise throttle bodies. if know the price of it, pls share.. thanks!

[gixxertan]

agree.. when??

 

Tentatively this month 27? Depends on the response also....

[omnislash]

You normally serviced yr bike at Racewerks ah?> how is the charge there? steep? mechanic experience?>

 

I have tried Looi's Meng Tong (he no longer there though), HL Jabar, Perfection Motors Allan, and Racewerks.... To be honest, the best mechanic is still yourself if you know what ur doing... I do all the basic maintenance myself....

 

All the mechs that I've encounter have proven to be good at times and bad on some other occassions... They range from minor maintenance slip-ups like losing some of my fairing fasteners, putting back fasteners at the wrong place, forgetting to install back the water drain hose... A bit more major cock up is nv tighten my steering stem nut to the correct torque...

 

The things is, all the shops that I've gone to ain't cheap so I expect some kindof quality in place... I'm currently sticking to Racewerks cuz by far, their value for money has a slight edge over the rest and its nearer to where i'm staying. Norman, Sam and gang are very helpful and open to discussion on technical issues...

 

Ultimately, they (ALL Motordiam) are all trying to make a living and if they can earn more from you, who wouldn't. Do a bit of research on the maintenance you want to do then ask for quote before you commit.

[man simei]

bro can i joint you guys this friday? 81115390 can sms me the time and place to meet?