<D.I.Y> Self Painting of Rusted Areas

[LarryDK]

Hi guys,

 

Here, I did a repaint on my NSRR 150 on some of the parts that tend to rust easily. As most of us know, Some of the SP parts can be replace with the new one. Some not. Anyway, I attached a few pics to enhance what I going to say.

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/14042007071.jpg

The Rusty HandleBar

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/14042007068.jpg

The Rusty Pillion Footrest

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/22042007073.jpg

The Rusty Body Frame

 

From these views, you can see that the conditions are pretty bad, the body frame cannot be seen clearly because the rusts are basically at the corners and much more inside of the bike. but its more obvious by seeing at the footrest and the handle bar.

 

Below are the repainted end products.

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/22042007074.jpg

Repainted Handlebar

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/22042007075.jpg

Repainted Footrest

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/22042007072.jpg

Resprayed BodyFrame

 

This is the end result, I used a paint that can directly paint on rust areas, and it been a week since I painted, and none of the paint came off. As for the Body Frame, I used a black Flate spray paint.

 

The way I did it in steps is:

 

1)Get a good sandpaper, around 120 - 200 is good. There are very rough and can wipe quite fast.

2)Get a direct on rust paint. (I get back with the brand soon) Its quite expensive, a small tin is $11 but can last you for long time.

3)Tools, Newspaper, Masking Tape, and cleaner.

4)Rubbing Compound (If you want to make it really nice and flat)

5)Waxing Lotion

 

This are the basic things you need.

 

For handlebar: Make sure you wont paint on the fork part, so using masking tape to tape off the area is ideal, then get a small brush, art painting brush is good, and slowly paint the areas that is rusty. As the area is small, it is not neccessary to sand the area, just make sure its clean, and then use the paint on it.

 

For Footrest: Take out all the parts, then do a big sanding task, as much as you can. Then do the rest the same, using small brush and paint.

 

For both job, the paint will leave a glossy end, if you use wax, its fine, but without wax, it will still last. I personally don't use wax because it means using rubbing compound and slowly smoothen the areas, but it can be very hard, because if not careful, you will have to repaint again.

 

Thus, if you want to make it smooth, paint many layers, like 5-7, then use rubbing compound to slowly smoothen it, then wax. I personally tried a few times, but failed. Mainly because inorder for the rubbing compound to work, your paint per layer have to be TOTALLY dry, which is very hard if you using paint and not spray. Paint needs 2-3 hour each time, and 7 layers, mean you spending whole day just painting and waiting. Thus for this 2 parts, due to the small area, its not very obvious of the lines, and I suggest you just paint a couple of layers everyday or each week when you have time.

 

As for the body frame, its harder, you need to remove the layer of paint from the original part, it means using the sandpaper and giving it a good rub, its hard work. Only until the part where you see bare metal, then its consider done. When you done, clean it up using GT95 or water, and make the area dry, not making it dry, you will create air bubbles when spraying.

 

All done, isolate the areas using newspaper and taping them as much as you can, taking out any fairings that you desire. You need to spray more than 10 layers, yes 10 layers. Each time, spray lightly, making sure that there wont be over smudge of paint causing tear drops. If you happen to have a few, don't worry, there is still ways to recover from it.

 

Now after 10 layers, there is uneven areas. Wait for it to dry, TOTALLY dry, it means touching them wont leave finger print, using a hair dryer is good. Once its totally dry, its time to sand it again. Using the grade 120, you need to do it lightly. YES LIGHTLY, sand on the area using one direction, forward or backward, or down or up. I personally using backward.

 

The end result will cause scratches to the paintwork, but thats what you want, you want to even out the area with the paint, then you have to sand until the uneven areas are flat with the rest, you will be able to see 2 shades of sand results, the hill type and the body type, once everything reaches one shade, it means that the hill have flaten, and continue to sand more to ensure it. Dun sand too hard as if you make a deep cut, it means sanding more to make sure the layer reaches the cut.

 

Last move, once done, take your spray, spray from far, and lightly, not too light though, and spray the whole frame again, moving back and fro. Wait for it to dry and do a couple more layers, making sure that the sanded areas are covered. Then you done.

 

Now, take a clear coating spray, and do it again, spraying more layers to the top. It helps protect the black coat. Lastly, take wax and wax the area hard. Now you got 2 protections on top of the black coat.

 

Things to take note:

 

It takes patience to make the spraying good, I did alot of repairs before I got my results.

If the first time result, there is no hills, then congrats, you don't need to enter the sanding part.

Constantly check your spraying and sanding, try not to over do it.

For areas that are hard to reach, spray them first, do a hard spray on them, and then leave them as they are. It will cause tear drops to flow out to the main frame, use a paper towerl, and wipe it off.

 

Any questions, can feel free to ask me.

[Crazy]

Originally posted by LarryDK@April 22, 2007 09:16 pm

Hi guys,

 

Here, I did a repaint on my NSRR 150 on some of the parts that tend to rust easily. As most of us know, Some of the SP parts can be replace with the new one. Some not. Anyway, I attached a few pics to enhance what I going to say.

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/14042007071.jpg

The Rusty HandleBar

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/14042007068.jpg

The Rusty Pillion Footrest

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/22042007073.jpg

The Rusty Body Frame

 

From these views, you can see that the conditions are pretty bad, the body frame cannot be seen clearly because the rusts are basically at the corners and much more inside of the bike. but its more obvious by seeing at the footrest and the handle bar.

 

Below are the repainted end products.

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/22042007074.jpg

Repainted Handlebar

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/22042007075.jpg

Repainted Footrest

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/22042007072.jpg

Resprayed BodyFrame

 

This is the end result, I used a paint that can directly paint on rust areas, and it been a week since I painted, and none of the paint came off. As for the Body Frame, I used a black Flate spray paint.

 

The way I did it in steps is:

 

1)Get a good sandpaper, around 120 - 200 is good. There are very rough and can wipe quite fast.

2)Get a direct on rust paint. (I get back with the brand soon) Its quite expensive, a small tin is $11 but can last you for long time.

3)Tools, Newspaper, Masking Tape, and cleaner.

4)Rubbing Compound (If you want to make it really nice and flat)

5)Waxing Lotion

 

This are the basic things you need.

 

For handlebar: Make sure you wont paint on the fork part, so using masking tape to tape off the area is ideal, then get a small brush, art painting brush is good, and slowly paint the areas that is rusty. As the area is small, it is not neccessary to sand the area, just make sure its clean, and then use the paint on it.

 

For Footrest: Take out all the parts, then do a big sanding task, as much as you can. Then do the rest the same, using small brush and paint.

 

For both job, the paint will leave a glossy end, if you use wax, its fine, but without wax, it will still last. I personally don't use wax because it means using rubbing compound and slowly smoothen the areas, but it can be very hard, because if not careful, you will have to repaint again.

 

Thus, if you want to make it smooth, paint many layers, like 5-7, then use rubbing compound to slowly smoothen it, then wax. I personally tried a few times, but failed. Mainly because inorder for the rubbing compound to work, your paint per layer have to be TOTALLY dry, which is very hard if you using paint and not spray. Paint needs 2-3 hour each time, and 7 layers, mean you spending whole day just painting and waiting. Thus for this 2 parts, due to the small area, its not very obvious of the lines, and I suggest you just paint a couple of layers everyday or each week when you have time.

 

As for the body frame, its harder, you need to remove the layer of paint from the original part, it means using the sandpaper and giving it a good rub, its hard work. Only until the part where you see bare metal, then its consider done. When you done, clean it up using GT95 or water, and make the area dry, not making it dry, you will create air bubbles when spraying.

 

All done, isolate the areas using newspaper and taping them as much as you can, taking out any fairings that you desire. You need to spray more than 10 layers, yes 10 layers. Each time, spray lightly, making sure that there wont be over smudge of paint causing tear drops. If you happen to have a few, don't worry, there is still ways to recover from it.

 

Now after 10 layers, there is uneven areas. Wait for it to dry, TOTALLY dry, it means touching them wont leave finger print, using a hair dryer is good. Once its totally dry, its time to sand it again. Using the grade 120, you need to do it lightly. YES LIGHTLY, sand on the area using one direction, forward or backward, or down or up. I personally using backward.

 

The end result will cause scratches to the paintwork, but thats what you want, you want to even out the area with the paint, then you have to sand until the uneven areas are flat with the rest, you will be able to see 2 shades of sand results, the hill type and the body type, once everything reaches one shade, it means that the hill have flaten, and continue to sand more to ensure it. Dun sand too hard as if you make a deep cut, it means sanding more to make sure the layer reaches the cut.

 

Last move, once done, take your spray, spray from far, and lightly, not too light though, and spray the whole frame again, moving back and fro. Wait for it to dry and do a couple more layers, making sure that the sanded areas are covered. Then you done.

 

Now, take a clear coating spray, and do it again, spraying more layers to the top. It helps protect the black coat. Lastly, take wax and wax the area hard. Now you got 2 protections on top of the black coat.

 

Things to take note:

 

It takes patience to make the spraying good, I did alot of repairs before I got my results.

If the first time result, there is no hills, then congrats, you don't need to enter the sanding part.

Constantly check your spraying and sanding, try not to over do it.

For areas that are hard to reach, spray them first, do a hard spray on them, and then leave them as they are. It will cause tear drops to flow out to the main frame, use a paper towerl, and wipe it off.

 

Any questions, can feel free to ask me.

Nice

 

Sure save some money on that.

 

and upz for your patience.

[AsHaRiE]

nice job bro.. wad paint did u use?

[LimHammett]

good job.

 

thanks for sharing!

 

[Phang]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN4471.jpg

 

I think he used Hammerite

 

I used the same paint to paint the underside of my metal fenders to prevent rusting.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v198/Phang/DSCN4482.jpg

[LarryDK]

Yes I used that. Kudos for the help.

 

Anyway the paint is not the same as normal paint as it is for rusted metal work. I tried to polish it, but it seems impossible. Also, please don't try and spray paint onto the paint itself thinking that you can make it real smooth.

 

The result will be like a big chunk of crayon on the metal and just a pinch from your nail will make every thing drop off like clay. I experienced it and I totally regret.

 

So, for really smooth surface using the paint, I suggest you get a air brush tool, and use it. (The one they use for model cars, or figures) Its a small spraying tool that have a container to hold the paint and for air spray like spraypaint.

 

but of course, its expensive.

[squallgoh]

upz for paintjob well done..

will try soon..

[LarryDK]

Hey guys, I did something more this time, and so, I will add something more about paintwork doing.

 

Firstly, I finished up both sides of my frame, tough work..

 

But I had a Grave mistake done also. Now the grave mistake is actually sticking of stickers onto the paintwork and then spray or give it a clear coat.

 

A few things to note before doing any sticker pasting.

 

First, the surface have to be dry. (Yes general knowledge, but I tried to do it when its not dry)

 

Then when its dry, Stick onto the paintwork and use a hairdryer to give it a few blow. (The heat will make the sticky part much more sticky, but don't constant blow the sticker for long time as it will coil the sticky up, losing it stickness)

 

While doing that, keep pressing the stickers.

 

Done, take a clear coat spray, and SPRAY LIGHTLY each time, YES VERY Lightly. Wait for it to dry before doing the second coat and so on. Spray until the point where you can feel that there is a edge feeling from the paintwork and the sticker, a smooth edge feeling, not sharp. Then you done.

 

A good thing about this is, your sticker is now in co with your paintwork, your sticker will get peel off easily, even a scratch on the clear coat can be repaired by polising or spraying another light layer onto it.

 

Now some notes for everyone trying it.

 

First, your paint have to be totally dried because if you spray before it drys, the paint cannot dry inside the spray coat and causing it to have winkles, yes, One side of the paintwork of my sticker got winkles underneth, while the other side dun have.

 

Second, Spraying too thick of a coat each time will cause the stickers to coil up, reason I think is because of the excess spray coat going into the stickers and after drying, the stickers have to coil up for the coat.

 

Third, I tried using the spray onto the paintwork of my handlebar, so you guys know that its a different paint than the frame, so when I did spray it on, It did have reactions with the paint. BUT this is what I tried, Doing heavy spray and light spray, Spraying it lightly each time have more room for air for the paint, thus, the reaction is not there during my light spraying, then I wanted to give it a hard coat one time, (Naughty) Then the next time, Alot of my paint work have winkles around and the stickers coiled up, even the good one that I said eariler on.

 

As for spray paints, it wont matter because if you bought the same brand, their settings are the same and spraying the 2 concurrently also wont affect the paintwork.

 

SOLUTIONS!!! The only solution is to sand it off, and then buy a new set of stickers. Ya I am very sad, but at least its the handle bar I am redoing, not the WHOLE FRAME!! I post up the pic of what I did soon.

[LarryDK]

As mentioned, I posted the picture for everyone to see.

 

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w245/chidchid/30042007096.jpg

Handlebar with Sticker.

 

Nice? Lol, I like the combo of this sticker on the handlebar, anyway, it contains grave problem. So I have to redo it.

 

Notice the right side of the honda wing, there is winkles spread from the top till the btm part, that is the part that I repaint but I din wait for it to dry.

 

Notice the left side of the honda wing is okie, even the words dun have winkles. Which prove that you have to wait for the paintwork to dry.

 

Second, IF you stare REALLY Deep, you notice the crappy paint on the edges and some of the corners of the nuts and the handlebar. All these is due to the over spraying done. Which cause the extra moisture inside the layer btw the top layer and the paint, causing it to crap up and become ugly.

 

From this picture, you cannot see the stickers coil up, but its already had, since this morning I touched it, SO SAD.. Okie, when I got the nice one up, I post again.

 

Take NOTE, I haven try sticking on the frame work, which I not going to do it until this experiment is sucessful, the frame is so much harder than the handle bar, taking out fairings and isolating the areas are tough. Thus, if you decided to do it, please do it at your own risk ya.

 

Secondly, The handle bar, I going to remove the paint and use a spray paint instead, (since I did so much isolating, I kind of better now in isolating difficult areas) So if the spray paint and sticker works, then naturally, the frame side will also work.

 

If you want to play safe, wait till I finish up the handle bar ba, its not hard work, When I free, I will do the sanding le.