coolant

[STORM]

hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?

by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?

[Guest StreetFighter63]

My fren told me that the coolant that Caltex perol stn is selling is quite good. Never overheat one. To make sure so bubbles, after pouring in ur coolant, on ur engine and let itr running. if the coolant level drop, top up again. MAke sure rev ur throttle a few times then check again. If the level mantain ... then ur coolant enuff already lor .. hjeheheheheh .. Hope this helps.

[Exodus79]

hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?

by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?

 

Im using "ENGINE ICE" it cost me $35 including flushing,bascially it does not need to mix with water juz flush and pour..its blue in color..quite happy with it...cools off fast IMO.

 

[STORM]

hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?

by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?

 

Im using "ENGINE ICE" it cost me $35 including flushing,bascially it does not need to mix with water juz flush and pour..its blue in color..quite happy with it...cools off fast IMO.

 

 

thanks guys

[Guest ZZR-Pilot]

To make sure so bubbles, after pouring in ur coolant, on ur engine and let itr running. if the coolant level drop, top up again. MAke sure rev ur throttle a few times then check again. If the level mantain ... then ur coolant enuff already lor .. hjeheheheheh .. Hope this helps.

 

To get rid of air locks & bubbles inside the cooling system, I use the easy way - let the heat cycle take care of it! When running at operating temp, the coolant inside heats up and expands. This in itself will push the air out through the radiator cap. When the radiator cools down, the coolant contracts and sucks spare coolant from the expansion bottle.

 

Some bikes like mine are a b!tch to start while filling up the radiator (the petrol tank must be removed altogether to access the radiator). So I'd just fill up the radiator as much as it can go, then overfill the expansion bottle slightly past the 'max' line to allow the heat cycle top off the cooling system by itself. Kaotim! After that you can ride the bike as usual - just keep an eye on the spare coolant level in the expansion bottle. When it settles in the next few days (which means the cooling system has been totally purged of air bubbles), then just refill the bottle to the proper level. That's all, no need to start engine & rev.

 

If you radiator is easily accessible, then Streetfighter's method can be used.

[Guest aiya4]

I have a question

 

I ride S4vtec, If lets say I wanna remove the bubbles, I topup new coolant into the radiator, I switch on bike and rev abit, but at this point of time, my fuel tank was removed, how to let the bike rev without petrol? Wouldn't that spoil the engine? If lets say the carb hold a certain amount of petrol without the fuel tank, how long can we let the bike run idle without depleting the fuel and cause potential damage to the engine?

 

gum sia many many....

[Guest ZZR-Pilot]

I have a question

 

I ride S4vtec, If lets say I wanna remove the bubbles, I topup new coolant into the radiator, I switch on bike and rev abit, but at this point of time, my fuel tank was removed, how to let the bike rev without petrol? Wouldn't that spoil the engine? If lets say the carb hold a certain amount of petrol without the fuel tank, how long can we let the bike run idle without depleting the fuel and cause potential damage to the engine?

 

gum sia many many....

 

I had just made a posting on how to get rid of air bubbles in your cooling system without bothering to start the engine and rev it while topping up the radiator. It's right up there.

[Guest aiya4]

To get rid of air locks & bubbles inside the cooling system, I use the easy way - let the heat cycle take care of it! When running at operating temp, the coolant inside heats up and expands. This in itself will push the air out through the radiator cap. When the radiator cools down, the coolant contracts and sucks spare coolant from the expansion bottle.

 

Some bikes like mine are a b!tch to start while filling up the radiator (the petrol tank must be removed altogether to access the radiator). So I'd just fill up the radiator as much as it can go, then overfill the expansion bottle slightly past the 'max' line to allow the heat cycle top off the cooling system by itself. Kaotim! After that you can ride the bike as usual - just keep an eye on the spare coolant level in the expansion bottle. When it settles in the next few days (which means the cooling system has been totally purged of air bubbles), then just refill the bottle to the proper level. That's all, no need to start engine & rev

 

You mean the expansion bottle is the spare bottle which is normally at the back of the bike? When you say running at operating temperature, what do you actually mean? Ok i tell you my idea regarding your method, you correct me ok?

 

1. Top up coolant till max at radiator

2. Close radiator cap

3. Fill expansion bottle to abit higher than max level

4. Switch on and run bike

5. Check expansion bottle and topup to recommended level if necessary.

 

Thanks

[Guest ZZR-Pilot]

1. Top up coolant till max at radiator

2. Close radiator cap

3. Fill expansion bottle to abit higher than max level

4. Switch on and run bike

5. Check expansion bottle and topup to recommended level if necessary.

 

All correct.

 

No 4 = ride the bike like usual lor. Doesn't have to be immediately. You can ride it to work the next day. Just as long as you work the engine to operating temperature so that the coolant expands and pushes the air out. When it cools, it sucks the extra coolant in. This is what you call the heat cycle. After several heat cycles, there'll be no more air inside your cooling system.

 

As for the radiator cap, well you must know that a radiator cap isn't like a bottle cap. Look at the radiator filler neck. See the little drain hole that connects to the tube running to the expansion bottle? Now look at the radiator cap - notice the spring underneath? A radiator cap, together with the hole on the filler neck, act as a safety valve. If the pressure inside a radiator increases beyond a certain point (measured in bar), the pressure will push and compress the spring. This allows the radiator to puke thru the hole and into your expansion bottle to relieve the pressure. When you get home & switch off the engine, the radiator cools and as it cools the coolant contracts. If there isn't enough coolant, the contraction will make the pressure inside the radiator drop. This will suck the spring and make it extend downwards, allowing the vacuum to suck extra coolant from the expansion bottle to replace any loss.

 

No 5 = If your radiator cap is in working order, the coolant level in your expansion bottle *will* drop. Unless the bugger is all rusted out and seized solid, in which case you should replace it anyway. A seized cap may not help the radiator vent excess pressure... no prizes for guessing what'll happen then.

[Guest aiya4]

Oh.... NOW I know.. thanx man ZZR, I learnt alot

 

Ok so lets say I die die use StreetFighter's method, meaning I will be removing my fuel tank and rev to make the coolant level drop. So will this method damage the carbs or engine? cos I keep having this idea that without fuel in the fuel tank to run the bike, or just using that small amount of fuel in the carbs to rev the bike(what if the fuel depletes), it will damage my carbs or engine.

 

Anyone any opinions?

[Guest ZZR-Pilot]

Oh.... NOW I know.. thanx man ZZR, I learnt alot

 

Ok so lets say I die die use StreetFighter's method, meaning I will be removing my fuel tank and rev to make the coolant level drop. So will this method damage the carbs or engine? cos I keep having this idea that without fuel in the fuel tank to run the bike, or just using that small amount of fuel in the carbs to rev the bike(what if the fuel depletes), it will damage my carbs or engine.

 

Anyone any opinions?

 

Carb bowls will hold some fuel. How long it'll last, I dunno. If the carb bowls run dry after you run the engine without the tank, no damage will be done. It'll be like running out of petrol on the road lah. But a bit paiseh afterwards cos after you attach the tank, you gotta prime the carbs again (refill the carb bowls by selecting prime or PRI on the fuel tap and wait a while). From my experience, restarting a bike after the carbs have dried can be a b!tch sometimes.

 

But I don't think the carbs will go dry if you just start the bike and rev it a few times to fill up the radiator properly. I don't do it that way because I couldn't be bothered to. Just fill up, re-attach the tank and go.

[STORM]

Oh.... NOW I know.. thanx man ZZR, I learnt alot

 

Ok so lets say I die die use StreetFighter's method, meaning I will be removing my fuel tank and rev to make the coolant level drop. So will this method damage the carbs or engine? cos I keep having this idea that without fuel in the fuel tank to run the bike, or just using that small amount of fuel in the carbs to rev the bike(what if the fuel depletes), it will damage my carbs or engine.

 

Anyone any opinions?

 

went to do my coolant today , actually no need to rev for the first few pours of coolant just rock the bike left n right , the coolant will go down.

after rocking the bike after a few pours the coolant wun go down then its time to start the bike n give it a little rev , the petrol in the cabr will last u till the radiator is full

hope this helps!

[Fire]

hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?

by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?

 

Im using "ENGINE ICE" it cost me $35 including flushing,bascially it does not need to mix with water juz flush and pour..its blue in color..quite happy with it...cools off fast IMO.

 

 

is it flushing solution or coolant? I wanna flush 1st before topping with new coolants. Any idea where to get good flushing solution?

[Guest StreetFighter63]

hi guys , can intro some good coolant cos going to flush my coolant?

by the way how to make sure there is no air bubble in the system when topiing up the coolant?

 

Im using "ENGINE ICE" it cost me $35 including flushing,bascially it does not need to mix with water juz flush and pour..its blue in color..quite happy with it...cools off fast IMO.

 

Maybe ur bike is a 2-stroke machine and that is why u find it good. Few of my frens riding 4-stroke machines who used that Engine Ice says that it's terrible. The bike gets heated up fast. One of them riding Hayabusa says he needs 2 bottles of that coolant to make his coolant full. Imagine spending $70 on coolant and find that ur engine gets heated up faster?

[Guest StreetFighter63]

I have yet to personally go and see the product myself to see what's the ingredient. My fren told me that his bike gets heated up faster than usual. What he meant was in everyday context of moving and not stuck in jam. Stuck in jam sure very fast hot mah.

[Guest StreetFighter63]

Alamak ... at what temp that one I never ask lah ... but the bike did not overheat.

[Guest StreetFighter63]

What's the use of having a hotter bike than normal days (although in working range) after u used an expensive coolant?

[Guest StreetFighter63]

What's good for u may not be good for me. So what's the point for u to say that whatever I said is wrong? If u think it's good .. go ahead and use it. I'm merely stating what I've been told as a precaution to others. Lot's of people here are giving misleading and info which is not true. Go and correct them also lah .. why only me?

[Guest StreetFighter63]

I didn't say the lower the temparature, the better. What I said was .. why have a higher temp bike after using an expensive coolant when ur temp is lower and ur bike is functioning while using a cheaper coolant??

[Guest StreetFighter63]

I dun think that I'm contradicting myself. Which is better? A cooler engine which runs smoothly or a hotter engine which runs smoothly? For me, I'll definitely go for the cooler engine. So why pay more to have a hotter engine when u can spend less with a cooler engine when both engines can run smoothly? Can u see that there are 2 points that I'm stating here? One is cost effective, the other one is having a cooler engine but still runs smoothly.

[Guest StreetFighter63]

Well ... if u want numbers .. then I got nothing to say. I dun have the facts u needed. So if I'm wrong .. sorry then.

[yammi_46]

Anyone know where to get Castrol Coolant?

[hmsa2112]

flushed out my vtec1 radiator today.

quite a chore. couldn't even get the fuel tank completely off.

anyway, pored in a radiator flush in the morning, and then ran some errands on my bike.

came back, waited an hr for the engine to cool, then drained the radiator. poured in distilled water for a clean flush. afterwhich, poured in abt 250ml of concentrated coolant and 1.5l of distilled water.

will go riding again tomorrow to see whats the diff...

[frost98]

Anyone know where to get Castrol Coolant?

 

Castrol Radicool (pre-mixed with ionised water)

BP petrol kiosk.

$3.50 per 500ml bottle.

[yammi_46]

Castrol Radicool (pre-mixed with ionised water)

BP petrol kiosk.

$3.50 per 500ml bottle.

 

Thanks but I think that's for car I'm looking for this one http://217.37.205.213:1027/castrol/ancilla...ain_coolant.htm but can't find