DIY LED Signal (UPdates page 4 brake light)

[Guest nE0]

Those 5mm LEDs aren't very bright actually, drawing at most 30mA. I'm using 3watt LEDs, drawing 1400mA~! Same amount of light as a 21watt bulb, draws 1/4 the power. I made one 3 LED version for my friend's car too.

 

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/10129/normal_DSCN8091.JPG

 

But no one seems interested in them

[Limsteel]

No one interested, Never mind. Important is We Did it!

 

Anyway I Check, LED ProLight 3W only consume 700mA and Voltage (3.6 to 4.2V Max) It produce 60Lumen when peak power appiled. (extracted from Ebay)

 

Where did you get this LED?

[wX]

actually im interested, but the problem is, im an electronics idiot! are there any kind souls out there who can help me make a pair? =)

 

im willing to pay a lil more than the materials required

[Limsteel]

I only got 7 LED left (unless I dismantle my Aquarium light), I can only DIY 2 more. PM me if interested.

[marzocchi]

Originally posted by Limsteel@Jan 12 2006, 07:46 PM

I only got 7 LED left (unless I dismantle my Aquarium light), I can only DIY 2 more. PM me if interested.

just pmed u! i'm interested!! thanks!

[TooToo7]

Originally posted by nE0@Jan 12 2006, 08:17 PM

Those 5mm LEDs aren't very bright actually, drawing at most 30mA. I'm using 3watt LEDs, drawing 1400mA~! Same amount of light as a 21watt bulb, draws 1/4 the power. I made one 3 LED version for my friend's car too.

 

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/10129/normal_DSCN8091.JPG

 

But no one seems interested in them

I'm interested leh... DIY for how much le..

 

[E.V.ilyn]

Originally posted by Limsteel@Jan 12 2006, 06:13 PM

Yes it works, but waste current lah Don't like the Idea of Current flowing with no job done.

 

Futher more, the standard Bulb don;t just draw 220ma... The original Bulb that comes with the set is a 6w light bulb (draw about 500mA...)

hehe... 200ma was just a guidance lah. in fact my signals are 21w so it draws 1.75a...

[Guest nE0]

Originally posted by Limsteel@Jan 12 2006, 07:33 PM

No one interested, Never mind. Important is We Did it!

 

Anyway I Check, LED ProLight 3W only consume 700mA and Voltage (3.6 to 4.2V Max) It produce 60Lumen when peak power appiled. (extracted from Ebay)

 

Where did you get this LED?

What LED is that?

 

Mine produces 120lumens if i remember the spec sheets correctly. But I usually run it at slightly lower power to prolong the life and control the heat.

 

The LEDs are quite expensive, costs nearly $20+ each inclusive shipping. But the result is unbeatable I have one pair of signal lights modded already, but no one wants to buy.

 

Clicky

[Limsteel]

Too Ex la, that why... Imagine $40 alone for the LED then how much you wanna charge for the set? $60 for casing and labour?

 

120Lumen is abuse liao... I rather use these for my Rear/Brake lights... Next Project! Always drooling when I see G1 and R1 with rows of LEDs rear brake lights!

[Limsteel]

While reserching around for a Flasher circuit... I came across this most simple Twin Transistor Circuit... Maybe you guys interested...

http://www.techlib.com/electronics/graphics/Flasher.gif

 

If I got the time tomorrow, I will drop by SimLim Tower to buy the components try it out.

 

Also Found this fellow At This Website A Flasher relay to replace your stock relay... Comes in 2 or 3 pin version...

http://www.superbrightleds.com/store/html/images/flasher.jpg

[d0n]

wow..

the twin transitor circuit looks chim

what is it for?

 

anyway i wonder if those boards used for affixing LEDs to can be easily cut and shaped?

im tinking of DIY a single row of LED brake light for my rear box

[Strong Eagle]

Originally posted by d0n^@Jan 14 2006, 03:55 AM

wow..

the twin transitor circuit looks chim

what is it for?

 

anyway i wonder if those boards used for affixing LEDs to can be easily cut and shaped?

im tinking of DIY a single row of LED brake light for my rear box

When power is first applied to the circuit, no power flows down the right leg (the 401 transistor) because there is no power applied to its base. Instead, power flows down the left leg.

 

This raises the voltage on the base of the 403 transistor and current begins to flow through it through the middle leg. When the current flows through the middle leg, it causes a voltage to be applied to the 401 transistor base and now current will flow through the right leg.

 

Since the right leg has a much lower total resistance than the left leg, almost all the current flows through the right leg and the lamp switches on. However, as soon as this happens, no more power is being applied to the 403 transistor base, so no more current flows down the middle leg which means there is no more current through the 401 transistor so the lamp switches off. Then the process repeats.

 

I wonder what the flash rate is? Should be fast I would think.

[Limsteel]

d0n^:

the twin transitor circuit looks chim

Trust me.. there are CHIMMER ones:

http://www.qsl.net/yo5ofh/hobby%20circuits/circuit%20pictures/15flash.gif

 

anyway i wonder if those boards used for affixing LEDs to can be easily cut and shaped?

im tinking of DIY a single row of LED brake light for my rear box

At Sim Lim Tower, there're shops selling row of LEDs think it is quite affordable.

 

Strong Eagle:

I wonder what the flash rate is? Should be fast I would think.

Good Explaination... The Flash Rate can be controlled by Varing the Capacitor... Bigger |( mean longer charge/discharge time so therefore longer flash period...

 

Still gotta try out and see how. wish me luck.

[Guest nE0]

I think the one controlled by the logic gates one looks the easiest to implement.

 

Limsteel > Do you think the pause duration AND the flash duration can be adjusted independently? I'd imagine the pause duration is controlled by the rate the capacitor charges up.

[Limsteel]

Today tested the twin transistor... doesn't work Or more likely I screw up my Connections. All curcuit depends on the capacitor charging time to Switch On/Off so varing the Capacitor value "Should" change the timing.

 

If there is a suitable variable capacitor then it would be best!

 

Yes the IC connection is the easiest, but according to the net had already stop production. Existing stock cost GBP$4.50 (+ shipping from UK)

 

Just Found the more popular 555 timer IC:

http://www.electronic-circuits-diagrams.com/lightsimages/1.gif

[Guest nE0]

The problem with electronics is even if they run 12V, I'm not sure it can stand up to the fluctuations and voltage spikes when powered by vehicle electrical systems, which usually fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts.

 

So I think using transistors, capacitors and resistors only would be the best option.

[SilveR1-09]

Add a voltage regulator circuit to maintain constant voltage output..

[Naz]

err Limsteel..

 

I just do up the LED thingy.

 

How come my LED not bright ah? I put 4 on one tiny circuit board.

 

Is it because I bought cheapo LEDs at 80cents each or is it because of the 9V battery?

 

And, I saw 10mm LEDs. Well those looks much bigger. Can I use them?

 

Should I go SLT again?

[Limsteel]

Not every LED are made the same. Some brighter some dimmer. So not bigger size means brighter. Even 10mm ones also has different intensity... they consume the same energy (Voltage & Current)

 

Low brightness at 10,000 MCD

 

some very bright at 125,000 MCD.

[Naz]

is importing the only solution to brighter LEDs?

[MC28]

Thinking of doing one LED signals to replace my rear stock bulb...

 

Anyone has any idea which is the brightest LEDs one can get from SLT and cost??

[Guest nE0]

Simlim does sell some 1watt Luxeon LEDs, ready made with heatsinks, check them out.

 

And yes, importing is the only way to get the best. But then, I bought a whole bag of amber LEDs for 5 cents each. Scrapped the project though, cos I'd rather use one single LED than 30 5mm leds.

 

Using one single LED, it will be bright, but it will not be noticable. I think you need At least six LEDs spaced out, otherwise a pinprick of intense light is not going to be a useful signal. Just my opinion

[ozzarhomb]

Originally posted by nE0@Jan 16 2006, 01:53 AM

Simlim does sell some 1watt Luxeon LEDs, ready made with heatsinks, check them out.

 

And yes, importing is the only way to get the best. But then, I bought a whole bag of amber LEDs for 5 cents each. Scrapped the project though, cos I'd rather use one single LED than 30 5mm leds.

 

Using one single LED, it will be bright, but it will not be noticable. I think you need At least six LEDs spaced out, otherwise a pinprick of intense light is not going to be a useful signal. Just my opinion

i saw some luxeon LEDs at SLT today but didn't ask the price. u have any idea how much it cost?

 

the shop displayed some LEDs as well but it look like a normal one but it's quite bright too. wonder how much is it. there's many colors to choose from.

 

u mentioned 6 LEDs to make a noticeable signal light, wat type of LEDs u refering to?

[Guest nE0]

Originally posted by ozzarhomb@Jan 16 2006, 02:21 AM

i saw some luxeon LEDs at SLT today but didn't ask the price. u have any idea how much it cost?

 

the shop displayed some LEDs as well but it look like a normal one but it's quite bright too. wonder how much is it. there's many colors to choose from.

 

u mentioned 6 LEDs to make a noticeable signal light, wat type of LEDs u refering to?

I'm not refering to how bright the LEDs are, but how visible it is.

 

Imagine the traffic lights replaced by 3 superultra bright LEDs. They wouldn't be very useful would they?

 

Bright is one thing, Luxeon LEDs are bright, and have very wide beam angle, which makes them great for signal light usage. They are expensive though, and require heatsinks. Amber ones particularly get significantly dimmer when they overheat.

 

Anyway, Luxeon LEDs, like most other components sold at SLT are ridiculously overpriced. I save by ordering in bulk

[Naz]

Wanna sell a couple of yours to us?