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Posted
  Addictive said:
Hmz, doesnt seem that bad. If I cannot bend, u help me bend k?

 

haha. i got help ppl bend b4. but to fit the bent H4 35/60 into the standard H4 holder, it is not very 'tight'. will be loose loose like tat.

No more regrets.

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Posted

actually the fuse does melt. the metal inside will melt when more than 10 amp of current passes thru it. hence blowing the fuse, so called

 

  FunkyChicken said:
sorry its the 10 and 20 amp blow.

 

the 30 amp didnt blow but melt. i duno wads wrong wif my circuit but probably due to the high current. but why cant fuse melt? poor plastic quality can deform it due to heat too.

 

i came ur shop juz to get the h4 connector and the relay and asked advice frm u regarding my diy fuse melt and relay spoilt.

 

the fuse for the headlight is how many amp?? 30 amp rite? maybe fuse cant withstand the heat but the metal piece can withstand up to 30 amp and is low quality fuse dats y it melt. then why there are diff prices for the fuse? quality wise rite??

No more regrets.

Posted

http://www.societyofrobots.com/images/electronics_fuse_blown.jpg

 

http://www.haynes.co.uk/wcsstore/HaynesPublishing/images/features/051007_ChangeFusePR_2_small.jpg

 

http://www.davedarling.com/blown.jpg

No more regrets.

Posted
  paiseh said:
haha. i got help ppl bend b4. but to fit the bent H4 35/60 into the standard H4 holder, it is not very 'tight'. will be loose loose like tat.

 

I think I will try to make it tighter!! AS TIGHT AS POSSIBLE!

Posted
  paiseh said:
actually the fuse does melt. the metal inside will melt when more than 10 amp of current passes thru it. hence blowing the fuse, so called

at least u got the knowledge, but the pic u shown is not melt but blow. obviously if exceed the current limit it will blow. but my concern in melt, i believe its the quality.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG-4077.jpg

Previous Rides: RXK 135, S4 Project Big 1, S4 Vtec1, ST1100 Pan European, Cbr954, K7 600, FJR1300 ABS, SilverWing FJS 400.

Current Rides: FIT 1.3 GF MoonRoof.

Posted

the pics shown of course are blown fuses. but im saying the metal inside melted

 

u mean the plastic containing the metal melt is it? so far i have not seen any yet. maybe u can post a pic showing your melted fuse?

No more regrets.

Posted

In electronics and electrical engineering a fuse (short for fusible link), is a type of overcurrent protection device. Its essential component is a metal wire or strip that melts when too much current flows, which breaks the circuit in which it is connected, thus protecting the circuit's other components from damage due to excessive current.

 

source: wikipedia :cheeky:

No more regrets.

Posted
  FunkyChicken said:

at least u got the knowledge, but the pic u shown is not melt but blow. obviously if exceed the current limit it will blow. but my concern in melt, i believe its the quality.

 

Well, similarly I had never seen the plastic melt be4. The metal stripe is meant to melt once the current exceeds the amp it can withstand. to Maybe the current flow at that time was really huge, which resulted in high temperature outcome and melt the plastic. But I do came across articles or facts saying that fuse can actually withstand a few amp above it's limit for a period of time before the fuse blow. Yours could be the case.

Posted

my fuse had melt be4 and stick to the fuse holder. when high current passing through, it generate heat as well causing the fuse to blown and sometimes even melt. melting is the extreme part already

**Image in sig removed due to large filesize (3.95mb). Please refrain from linking such huge files as it will slow all other member's surfing.**

Posted

frightening. better be safe and get a better quality fuse :)

No more regrets.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have a doubt. Is it possible to have a common ground for the harness? The relay harness I gg to diy will have 5 grounding points(2 relay, 1 switch, 2 bulbs). Is it ok to join these 5 points into 1 wire and ground to terminal like the battery negative pt or chassis, or better to ground each of these points separately?

Posted
  Addictive said:
I have a doubt. Is it possible to have a common ground for the harness? The relay harness I gg to diy will have 5 grounding points(2 relay, 1 switch, 2 bulbs). Is it ok to join these 5 points into 1 wire and ground to terminal like the battery negative pt or chassis, or better to ground each of these points separately?

i connect it directly to the negative of the batt.

 

why dun u get the headlight relay kit from limbatt?? mine working fine.

 

btw wad relay did u use? dun use the normal bosch relay $5, it wun last for me. seen the one from limbatt promising stuff.

 

do keep us updated bro regarding ur diy. mine was a failure, maybe my relay aint good, but when i when mit limbatt he i saw the product and bought it instead of buying a new relay.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG-4077.jpg

Previous Rides: RXK 135, S4 Project Big 1, S4 Vtec1, ST1100 Pan European, Cbr954, K7 600, FJR1300 ABS, SilverWing FJS 400.

Current Rides: FIT 1.3 GF MoonRoof.

Posted
  Addictive said:
I have a doubt. Is it possible to have a common ground for the harness? The relay harness I gg to diy will have 5 grounding points(2 relay, 1 switch, 2 bulbs). Is it ok to join these 5 points into 1 wire and ground to terminal like the battery negative pt or chassis, or better to ground each of these points separately?

 

Ground is common, so it doesn't matter if you have individual grounding points or

one grounding point for the 5 wires. Naturally, it's more practical to group the wires into a single ground point so that it is easier to dismantle and install.

 

It is not advisable to return the ground directly to the battery negative (-ve) lead. Just ground it to the nearest metal mass.

 

:cool:

Posted

care to share why it is not advisable to return the ground directly to the battery negative (-ve) lead. learning process.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g313/funkyvtec/IMG-4077.jpg

Previous Rides: RXK 135, S4 Project Big 1, S4 Vtec1, ST1100 Pan European, Cbr954, K7 600, FJR1300 ABS, SilverWing FJS 400.

Current Rides: FIT 1.3 GF MoonRoof.

Posted

The only reason I can think of for not connecting directly to -ve terminal of battery is because of extra wires needed.

 

I always make some kind of fan-out at the battery terminals so that I can add additional items.

 

To me, it does not matter if I connect to the chassis or directly wire to battery. But I will prefer to wire directly back to the negative terminal if I have enough wire.

 

Reason is because I do not want to have additional load on the original negative terminal harness.

 

Wiring if properly done will not cause any hazard.

 

:cheers:

Pulsar UG3 (Mar 07 -> 21 Jan 2009)

S4 Ver S. (Scrapped May 2010)

S4 Revo (05 Aug 2010 -> current)

Posted

thanks for the enlightenment.

Anyway, my headlight relay harness is done. So far so good..

Pretty enjoyed the fruits of my small success thou it took me ard 5 to 6 hrs to do up the harness and fix into my bike.

Shagged man.

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