[Technical] Possible Solutions to your Phantom's Problem

jB · December 21, 2011

Those who have been helped by other riders here, kindly update the list with your problems and the solutions that helped you resolve your issue so others would benefit as well

revhappy · December 21, 2011

Phantom TA200/TA150 List of Problems and Solution

Problem 1: Exhaust emitting white smoke.

Reason: Engine oil is leaking into your chamber.

Solution: Pistol rings needs to be changed. Go to a bike workshop.

Reason: Your bike has a 2 stroke engine(ta150).

Solution: Its normal.

Problem 2: Engine stalls in heavy rain and unable / weak to start.

Reason: Spark plug could be getting wet by the rain causing it not not function

Solution: Remove, dry the spark plug and put it back properly. Go get the plug cap replaced.

Reason: Air fuel mixture may be too rich or lean.

Solution: Tune your carb to a leaner setting (turn screw anti-clockwise by 1/4).

Turning the screw clockwise to enrich the mixture. (once again, tune in 1/4 or 1/2 turns of the air correction screw, located on the LEFT side of the carb)

Bike tends to rev rapidly but have poor acceleration if lean, and if too rich, will have "spongy" / slow throttle response at high speeds.

If in need of advise / demonstration sms pandora's kitten at 93270801 (advice/demo given is FOC)

Reason: Air leakages.

Solution: Change some of the rubber parts in tank.

Reason: Air filter clogged.

Solution : Get your air filter changed. You are advised to inspect the air filter every 4000 or so kms and change it at 10k (Honda warranty service manual)

Problem 3: Flat / Punctured Tyres

Solution: Try to inflate tyre with portable pump / bicycle pump then go bike or tyre shop. DO NOT ride on flat tyres as they may damage your tyre or wheel.

Solution: Use tyre repair kit, plug and pump = good to go. Kit can be bought at LAB.

Solution 2: Buy a can of fix a flat from Carrefour or petrol stations, put it in your box.

Problem 4: Cannot / Hard to start bike

Reason: Battery may be weak (confirmed by a tick sound from the right side cover under the seat).

Solution: Push Start(Clutch in after running with bike, release, give a quick throttle and clutch in) and go get battery replaced or ride to charge(if still can be charged).

You are advised to use third gear to push start (due to Phantom's short gearing) or even fourth on very slippery driveways (such as on some landed properties)

Reason: Fuse may be blown.

Solution: Check Fuse. Fuse is located on right side of bike. Remove chrome cover under the seat and see. Look out for the centre of the fuse if its broken then FUSED lor. Change new one.

Reason: Bike is in gear, kill switch is on, no petrol.

Solution: Obvious.

Reason: Rectifier issue (despite new battery, bike soon becomes hard to start again)

Solution: Get mechanic to check with a voltage meter. Ah chong has one.

Reason: Petrol topped up too full - Don't laugh.

Solution: The petrol tank is not meant to be filled to the brim. Leave some space for air.

Reason: Water in petrol

Solution: Check that fuel cap is secure and no leaks

++ Reason: If everything is working fine CDI might be spoilt

Solution: Tow to shop and change..2nd hand one will cause app $100 1st hand $200+

Others:

- Check ignition coil for sparks.

- Check magneto coil.

Problem 5: Cant go more den 80 km/h

Reason: You are not in the 6th gear

Solution: Down 1 time 1st gear. up 5 times to sixth gear

Solution: If you have very poor acceleration when throttle is opened, you are running lean. Enrich mixture by 1/2 to 1 turn of the air correction screw.

Reason: If confirm no 6th gear, gear box may be in bad shape

Solution: Go to a reputable workshop for a checkup, may need to over haul.

Reason: Insufficient Engine Oil (Very bad)

Solution: Check with dipstick as according to manual. Buy Engine Oil from petrol kiosk and top up.

Reason: Clutch may have been worn off (Engine reving very high but no power to go any faster)

Solution: Bike shop chance clutch.

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich (Crazy vibrations at higher revs making it too uncomfortable)

Solution: Tune air fuel mixture leaner (Turn screw anti-clockwise 1/2 - 1 round)

Reason: Sprocket may be worn off

Solution: Change sprocket and chain.

Problem 6: Weird sound on my bike

Reason: Might be battery low. (Ticking sound on right side when start button depressed)

Solution: Push start, change battery

Reason: If sound is on gearbox side, chain may be too slack

Solution: Check your chain tension 1st. Should have about 2 to 3cm slack, tested at the center of the bottom span of the chain. Anything more, get it tightened. Also, lubricate your chain.

Solution: If you are using spray on chain lube, dirt and grease may be thrown off the chain during normal operation. When a lot of grease accumulates on the chain tensioner (rubber cylinder) and swingarm protector (rubber bar) the chain will emit a loud sound as though running through sand. Scrape and wipe away the excess grease and enjoy the quietness.

Problem 7: - Exhaust Header got holes. Can repair?

Reason: Got one specific hole which is ok.

Solution: If unsure, post some pictures.

Problem 8: - Engine oil Dip stick broken (Broken part might be in engine)

Solution:

- Send to bikeshop.

- New dipstick costs around $11.

Problem 9: I have tried everything but to no avail. Any tow numbers please?

Solution:

- 67474740 Tiko cheong.

- 64560018 Wing Yap.

- 97384501 => Hello, you the tua chia one?

Problem 10: Engine Part Leaking Oil

Reason: Gasket Spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

Reason: Cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it replaced

Problem 11: When riding, bike lean to one side. Let go of handlebar, steering was shaky and wobbling

Reason: Might be steering cone problem.

Solution: Go bike shop to get it fixed. May also need re-alignment.

Reason: Wheel bearings spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop, get it changed.

Reason: Wheel alignment might have problem.

Solution: Bike shop, get it fixed.

Problem 12: Speedo is not working

Reason: The cable, or the gear at the end of the cable is spoilt or loose.

Solution: If loose, plug it back or tighten. Else needs replacement, go bike shop.

Reason: Speedo spoilt.

Solution: Bike shop.

Problem 13: My exhaust gives have a loud bang regularly. (Backfire)

Reason: Air fuel mixture too rich or too lean.

Solution: Retune the carb. (check problem 24)

Problem 14: I lost my bike Key!!! What to do??

Solution: Go find the key smith.

Solution: If want to change ignition, look for Ah Chong (Planet) or scrapyard.

Problem 15: Bike pickup super slow. Even slower than small cc cars.

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change your clutch plates.

Solution: Fuel/air mixture too lean giving poor acceleration and a hot engine

Problem 16: Damaged Exhaust: Header got hole / Muffler loose or dropping.

Solution: Header got hole can weld it up.

Solution: Muffler dropping can cut open the pipe and take it out but pipe will sound louder.

Solution: Alternatively can change the whole system, pipe + header, about 300+-.

Problem 17: Hard to kick the gears

Reason: Clutch is worn

Solution: Change or top up EO.

Solution: Change clutch plate.

Reason: Your clutch cable is breaking.

Solution: Replace your clutch cable

Problem 18: When cold start, bike got "tick tick" sound

Reason: cam chain tensioner spoilt.

Solution: Change the cam chain tensioner.

Solution: If its rattling sound instead of "tick tick" sound, bring bike to mechanic.

Problem 19: Bike wobble for no apparent reason.

Reason: Might have problem with wheel bearings or tyre pressure.

Solution: Check that the tyre pressure is correct.

Solution: If tyre pressure is correct, most probably is the bearing spoilt.

Solution:Change new bearings.

Problem 20: In Vehicle Unit (IU) Spoilt.

Reason: There is a whole lot of reason, old, water seep in, etc etc.

Solution: But a second hand IU but need to transfer name.

Solution: Buy a new IU at $155.80 w GST.

Solution: Don't go into carparks or go through ERP.

Problem 21: Weak Battery.

Reason: Battery old. Cannot charge or hold properly. etc etc

Solution: Recharge the battery (Wet), Dry ones cannot be recharged?.

Solution: Most people change batteries instead of recharging.

Solution: If leaving bike alone for a long time, disconnect the battery to prevent further unnecessary drainage.

Problem 22: Need to step real hard for brake lights to light up.

Reason: There is a knob for adjustment, it might be loose

Solution: There is a black screw lookalike plastic knob( near the spring) located somewhere near the rear brake pedal. u can play around with the knob by turning to adjust the sensitivity of your rear brake when you apply brake.

Problem 23: IU Spoilt.

Reason: No reason in particular. If its spoilt, its spoilt.

Solution: Inspect at Vicom. Replace a new one if under warranty. If not, have to buy a new one at about $155 (Slim).

Problem 24: Backfire tooooo frequent. Like 3-5 times a day. Or when u stop normally, not even sudden brake.

Reason: Gasket at exhaust head leaking air. Or #2, Exhaust has holes

Solution: Replace gasket. Or #2, send it to Planet Motor (ahchong) to weld the holes, or get a second-hand exhaust or get one cheaper exhaust at LAB (must make order)

Solution: Fuel-air mixture likely too rich. Backfires when throttle is closed, due to residual fuel afterburning in the exhaust header. This is bad for the valves and the catalytic converter.

25: After turning off my engine there is a tick tick tick sound some where.

Reason: Exhast pipe is cooling down. Hot it expands so cold it turns back.

Solution: Do DIY exhaust wrap. Reduced backpressure = faster heat evacuation, leading to high speed silent running and silent cooldown after engine off. (Pandora's Kitten :3)

Problem 26: Cannot find neutral gear!

Solution: Gear oil not suitable, change different grade of gear oil (see gearoil thread for details)

Solution: Gear box dying.

Solution: Engine is overheated. (Running too lean/ Not enough engine oil. An overheating engine may cause excessive oil consumption, especially when using less tolerant mineral oil)

Solution: Clutch freeplay not enough

Solution: If cannot find neutral when engine is hot but fine when engine is cold, that means engine oil has degraded and cannot maintain its viscosity at high temperatures. Changing engine oil should solve the issue.

Problem 27: Handlebar position is not centered (while riding). Handlebars are "straight" but wheel points to one side.

Solution: Lock the wheel, grab the handlebars firmly and twist the bars until straightened. The risers are flexible to some degree, due to the vibration damping rubber washers. (Demonstrated by Planet Motors)

Solution: If your steering lock is spoilt, put the wheel against a pillar or a wall.

Problem 28: Bike hard to U-turn. Riding position not comfortable as handlebars too high up.

Solution: Adjust the angle of the handlebars. Loosen the bottom two screws of the risers, pull back the bars so they "rise" towards your face. This will give you a more relaxed riding posture and you are able to enjoy a greater turning angle at low speeds. If your handlebars are set to rise straight upwards forcing you to stretch forward and upwards to steer, your elbows will prevent you from turning easily at low speeds.

Edited December 21, 2011 by revhappy

TRR · December 30, 2011

Hi bro can anyone advise if TA150 exhaust pipe be fitted onto TA200 - Phantom 3 and 4 ?

Pulser · December 31, 2011

Hello guys, just wanted to check with you on the Air to Fuel mixture setting. I understand that turning anticlockwise will make it leaner and clockwise will make it richer.

I would like try a bit leaner setting, my engine runs very cold, as I have an exhaust heat wrap, so I think I can afford to run it a bit leaner.

My question is, If I turn like 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn,is it safe? What is the total number of turns from one side to another side? What is the default factory setting or the ideal setting in terms of number of turns? what is the "safe operation" range

@Pandora's Kitten :3, Appreaciate if you could help me on this.

Thanks in advance!

Edited December 31, 2011 by Pulser

Pandoras Kitten 3 · January 1, 2012

@Pulser, thanks for your enquiry, it's always wise to ask around first before executing changes which you are unsure.

For cold engine, I'd like to ask first of all if you know why the engine is running at low temperature - because especially in tropical climate your air cooled free revving 200cc should be running somewhat on the hot side of things. (No oil cooler)

You can actually gauge roughly the engine health by touching for a moment the engine casing. You should be able to touch the engine for about 0.5 to 1 second before your instinct pulls your hand away. If you can rest your hand there for a long time and never feel 'hot' something is amiss.

(Whereas overheating is something like, either you are cooking your shoes while riding, or when touched, the engine casing burns you the instant your fingertip contacts the surface. Anyway at that state of overheat the block will be 'dieseling' and making a pinging sound - predetonation)

It's very difficult to over-cool this engine unless you somehow modified it to water-cooling (CAN be done! But not advisable in here since such skills aren't appreciated by most, don't waste time or running a very unique carb tune. Unlikely as your engine relies on atmosphere, incoming fuel air charge and engine oil circulation for cooling, nothing else.

Until I have actually seen/tested your motor in real life I would refrain from giving you specific technical advise but generally I can say the following: -

If you improve the 'breathability' of the engine by doing intake or exhaust tuning (this does include exhaust wrap) then the engine will run a bit leaner.

If you find the engine runs better with the wrap or running without the air filter (for test purposes) then you are running too rich and your new mod has given you better efficiency.

If you find the engine after the mod revs and idles faster but has lost power to overtake or climb hills then you have become 'lean'.

Note that a lean condition also carries the possibility of a LOUD backfire (Malaysian racing cub style!). Too much air for proper combustion, so unburnt fuel collects in the exhaust, encounters greater heat and boom! That's the tendency for this bike.

And a rich condition gives you "Afterburning" during engine braking, which will remind you of either a Subaru Impreza WRX or a Mercedes AMG style rumbling. Of course, if you cock up the jettings even further on the rich side you might get both afterburning and backfiring problems. Fun stuff but never advisable to keep the settings due to increased valvetrain and exhaust damage. Oh and also over rich settings on your pilot air correction screw will also get rid of engine braking. Makes it handle like a two stroker.

So you see carb tuning is a big can of worms and you need to know not only what people say about lean and rich... but how it feels from the driver's perspective as well. Different people have different preferances, and I will state that the common perception of aircooled=run rich = better is not entirely true anymore, due to the following:

1. Materials and engineering has improved. The optimal setting is rich on wide open throttle for maximum power, but lean on the overrun and cruise. I borrowed this from tuning other vehicles (including looking at EFI mappings), and it works well.

2. Driving conditions. If I am sprinting to Malacca at 140kph I will do a 'desert racing' tune and get the motor to run rich at the expense of idling stability. If my dad is just using my bike to get groceries from market over the weekend (and I don't want him to speed) then I "de-tune" it lean to save fuel.

3. Personal preferences & Machine Condition. There's no correct way of carb tuning, because for the TA200 there are a million possibilities of airbox, piston, carb, and exhaust tuning (we just don't post them on this forum . The best tune is what you create for yourself eventually, these are just guidelines to encourage, not discourage, you from experimenting.

So turn that screw and see what happens. You have to experience rich and lean before you know what's best for your ride. Infact for most Phantom riders and modders I know, learning begins from that one screw and how to make use of it to adjust the running characteristics from 0% - 25% throttle.

You can give me a sms at 92264999 if you want a real life tutorial on how lean vs rich mixture works and how you should optimise the tuning.

My last TA200 tuning secret to give is that a cool running engine + synthetic oil will give you superior fuel economy. Such as running rich yet able to attain 40 km/l at highway speeds.

This appears to be your Phantom's 'special ability' right now, so don't be too quick to get rid of it!

However, too cool an engine and you start to lose efficiency!

Edited January 1, 2012 by Pandora's Kitten :3

Pulser · January 1, 2012

@Pulser, thanks for your enquiry, it's always wise to ask around first before executing changes which you are unsure.

For cold engine, I'd like to ask first of all if you know why the engine is running at low temperature - because especially in tropical climate your air cooled free revving 200cc should be running somewhat on the hot side of things. (No oil cooler)

You can actually gauge roughly the engine health by touching for a moment the engine casing. You should be able to touch the engine for about 0.5 to 1 second before your instinct pulls your hand away. If you can rest your hand there for a long time and never feel 'hot' something is amiss.

(Whereas overheating is something like, either you are cooking your shoes while riding, or when touched, the engine casing burns you the instant your fingertip contacts the surface. Anyway at that state of overheat the block will be 'dieseling' and making a pinging sound - predetonation)

It's very difficult to over-cool this engine unless you somehow modified it to water-cooling (CAN be done! But not advisable in here since such skills aren't appreciated by most, don't waste time or running a very unique carb tune. Unlikely as your engine relies on atmosphere, incoming fuel air charge and engine oil circulation for cooling, nothing else.

Until I have actually seen/tested your motor in real life I would refrain from giving you specific technical advise but generally I can say the following: -

If you improve the 'breathability' of the engine by doing intake or exhaust tuning (this does include exhaust wrap) then the engine will run a bit leaner.

If you find the engine runs better with the wrap or running without the air filter (for test purposes) then you are running too rich and your new mod has given you better efficiency.

If you find the engine after the mod revs and idles faster but has lost power to overtake or climb hills then you have become 'lean'.

Note that a lean condition also carries the possibility of a LOUD backfire (Malaysian racing cub style!). Too much air for proper combustion, so unburnt fuel collects in the exhaust, encounters greater heat and boom! That's the tendency for this bike.

And a rich condition gives you "Afterburning" during engine braking, which will remind you of either a Subaru Impreza WRX or a Mercedes AMG style rumbling. Of course, if you cock up the jettings even further on the rich side you might get both afterburning and backfiring problems. Fun stuff but never advisable to keep the settings due to increased valvetrain and exhaust damage. Oh and also over rich settings on your pilot air correction screw will also get rid of engine braking. Makes it handle like a two stroker.

So you see carb tuning is a big can of worms and you need to know not only what people say about lean and rich... but how it feels from the driver's perspective as well. Different people have different preferances, and I will state that the common perception of aircooled=run rich = better is not entirely true anymore, due to the following:

1. Materials and engineering has improved. The optimal setting is rich on wide open throttle for maximum power, but lean on the overrun and cruise. I borrowed this from tuning other vehicles (including looking at EFI mappings), and it works well.

2. Driving conditions. If I am sprinting to Malacca at 140kph I will do a 'desert racing' tune and get the motor to run rich at the expense of idling stability. If my dad is just using my bike to get groceries from market over the weekend (and I don't want him to speed) then I "de-tune" it lean to save fuel.

3. Personal preferences & Machine Condition. There's no correct way of carb tuning, because for the TA200 there are a million possibilities of airbox, piston, carb, and exhaust tuning (we just don't post them on this forum . The best tune is what you create for yourself eventually, these are just guidelines to encourage, not discourage, you from experimenting.

So turn that screw and see what happens. You have to experience rich and lean before you know what's best for your ride. Infact for most Phantom riders and modders I know, learning begins from that one screw and how to make use of it to adjust the running characteristics from 0% - 25% throttle.

You can give me a sms at 92264999 if you want a real life tutorial on how lean vs rich mixture works and how you should optimise the tuning.

My last TA200 tuning secret to give is that a cool running engine + synthetic oil will give you superior fuel economy. Such as running rich yet able to attain 40 km/l at highway speeds.

This appears to be your Phantom's 'special ability' right now, so don't be too quick to get rid of it!

However, too cool an engine and you start to lose efficiency!

Thanks a lot Pandora, for the very insightful writeup! Maybe its just psychological, but I have read on this forum how the Phantom tends to overheat and drink oil. Nothing like that happens to my bike. I wear slippers and ride for long distance and yet my legs dont feel the heat from the engine and there no tik tik sound from the exhaust after I stop the bike, because of the exhaust wrap. I can touch the crankcase easily for like few seconds without my finger getting burnt. My engine crankcase has been DIY painted with VHT black paint, BTW. I use Motul 5100 15W50, semisynthetic. Maybe its the oil

I actually tried to turn the carb screw using the screwdriver that comes in the tool kit, but just couldn't turn it. It looks like it is jammed.

I like your idea about removing the air filter and see how the bike runs. I will try that for a short distance and see how it feels with the "lean"ess. Thanks again

Pandoras Kitten 3 · January 1, 2012

Air correction screw jammed all the way in? Previous owner must had been desperate to enrich his idle mixture or something.

Use bigger screwdriver. A little bit of WD40 in the hole won't hurt in this case (just do not overspray).

Oil consumption - I wonder why when the machine has problems, people blame the machine instead of solving the root cause scientifically?

I think it comes out like this - aiyah, ah pek bike slow riding no need to use good oil.

TA200 with stock gearing exceeds 6000rpm easily on modern highway speeds. High temperature with mineral oil = oil gets cooked / burnt / evaporated to protect the engine. Always check the oil level on an old Phantom at least once a week. Doesn't hurt to check every morning if doing experimental stuff or just taken over the bike.

Recommended oils

Chex 9000 $16

Motul 5100 $18?

Schaeffer 7000 $11 from warehouse, even better one is Schaeffer 9000 "Racing" (Warning: I just started testing this brand only)

Personally I like Chex 9000. Its cheap ($16 at Planet Motors - Blk 3007 Ubi Rd 1 #01-430), it gives decent performance and offers very good hi temp resilience.

Schaeffer is experimental, no one else uses this ATM but my riders.

osxunix · January 1, 2012

Saw Carrefour selling Mobil mobil 0w 40 Full synthetic oil @ $10.85!

Good?

Pandoras Kitten 3 · January 1, 2012

Saw Carrefour selling Mobil mobil 0w 40 Full synthetic oil @ $10.85!

Good?

Is it motorcycle approved? Search on Google and on forums if people are using it on aircooled (or V Twin) motorcycles.

For that price I rather have AMSOIL or Schaeffer at $13 or $11 respectively. Buy direct from warehouse - these are top of the line oils for crazy prices.

osxunix · January 2, 2012

Is it motorcycle approved? Search on Google and on forums if people are using it on aircooled (or V Twin) motorcycles.

For that price I rather have AMSOIL or Schaeffer at $13 or $11 respectively. Buy direct from warehouse - these are top of the line oils for crazy prices.

Hi,

Can hint where are those warehouse?

I saw some youtube video driving Phantom are you from BSMR?

osxunix · January 2, 2012

Hi Guys,

I had handlebar issue I feel the handle bar is very light not easy to control during slow speed and start up after stop. Had adjust and lower the handlebars doesn't help is this normal or it was me?

Thanks.

Pandoras Kitten 3 · January 3, 2012

Hi Guys,

I had handlebar issue I feel the handle bar is very light not easy to control during slow speed and start up after stop. Had adjust and lower the handlebars doesn't help is this normal or it was me?

Thanks.

Pls check tyre pressure. Excessively high tyre pressure (as gotten from most local shops) will result in very unstable low speed handling. Honda recommended pressure is 200 kpa front and rear. Try that then optimise for your personal style.

For the 'oil warehouse' I PM you the details later. Don't intend to advertise; just helping others get cheap superior quality oil

meggidodimus · January 3, 2012

hmm hey guys, i would like to ask a question here as i don't really know how to go about solving a problem on my TA200.

currently, whenever i allow my bike to do engine braking, there is this knocking sound of sorts coming out, which means if I clutch in, that sound

is gone.

2 months back or so, my bike couldn't change to gear 1 and i went to planet and the shop owner said something at the gearbox was worn out and changed it, and the sound went away. 2 months later ( which is now) the sound is back again. I've read about it being the chain, etc etc, but im not really sure, can any bros out there advise on this? maybe i need to change EO ( 800km more to change) ?

meggidodimus · January 3, 2012

hmm hey guys, i would like to ask a question here as i don't really know how to go about solving a problem on my TA200.

currently, whenever i allow my bike to do engine braking, there is this knocking sound of sorts coming out, which means if I clutch in, that sound

is gone.

2 months back or so, my bike couldn't change to gear 1 and i went to planet and the shop owner said something at the gearbox was worn out and changed it, and the sound went away. 2 months later ( which is now) the sound is back again. I've read about it being the chain, etc etc, but im not really sure, can any bros out there advise on this? maybe i need to change EO ( 800km more to change) ?

meggidodimus · January 3, 2012

thanks guys

Pandoras Kitten 3 · January 3, 2012

Bike cannot change to gear one:

Inspect gear system linkage. Sometimes a loose gear lever linkage causes problems.

Also note that motorcycle gears are really meant to be changed when the bike is moving. For older TA200s it's normal for some to not be able to change to gear one when stationary.

if it can never go to gear 1 (cannot downshift at all) then it could be clutch plates / clutch spring worn out as well. Can't be EO because even the crappiest engine oil will still shift, albelt you might be able to feel the metal to metal contact.

For knocking during engine braking there might be severael causes but for internal engine work it's best you go to a reputable bike shop (Hint - Ubi). I'll be at Ubi this evening so you can drop by. I'll test ride and see if I can fix the problem cheaply (or better yet, FOC adjustment).

(sms to 92264999 if you want to drop by this evening - tuning site is near TP HQ)

meggidodimus · January 3, 2012

hmm, now the bike can change to gear 1, with no signs of being unable to change to gear 1 at all.

weird that there is a knocking sound though, wondering if i can just live with it for 1 year plus and then upgrading when the COE is over.

Pandoras Kitten 3 · January 3, 2012

Knocking sound is either predetonation (pilot too lean?) or lubricating issue. First one is easily solved and second one not sure. Small honda engines can run in adverse conditions for a surprisingly long period of time but it's no sense to tolerate the noise of an engine wanting to destroy itself

No harm bringing it over for me to look.

meggidodimus · January 3, 2012

Knocking sound is either predetonation (pilot too lean?) or lubricating issue. First one is easily solved and second one not sure. Small honda engines can run in adverse conditions for a surprisingly long period of time but it's no sense to tolerate the noise of an engine wanting to destroy itself

No harm bringing it over for me to look.

when riding , there is no sound, only when stopping (engine braking) then there will be a knocking ding ding ding sound.

haha sian diao man bro, last night i slept on the wrong side of the bed i guess, now got stiff neck, can't ride properly, don't dare to ride down lest something happens

Pandoras Kitten 3 · January 3, 2012

Lol! Special feature - brake bell.

I'm pretty sure its pilot setting or loose cosmetic part of the bike, if no other driving condition creates the problem.

Anyway good idea to skip riding if got stiff neck. Later blind spot cannot check lol.

meggidodimus · January 3, 2012

Lol! Special feature - brake bell.

I'm pretty sure its pilot setting or loose cosmetic part of the bike, if no other driving condition creates the problem.

Anyway good idea to skip riding if got stiff neck. Later blind spot cannot check lol.

haha yea precisely cuz i cant check my right blind spot thats why i dare not ride. hmm whats a pilot setting? reading other forums and they are saying maybe the chain tension is too loose ( well i checked the chain tension just now and it was within 2cm).

Pandoras Kitten 3 · January 3, 2012

Chain need not be pulled too taut or it will create excessive chain wear due to stress.

Actually 1-2 cm is fine for this bike because ideally you need to sit on the bike then adjust the chain. It does change geometry a bit when loaded.

I'm thinking your ringing sound is more high pitched metallic clicking which would come from the engine.

This is an easy fix but it's not entirely wise to give such tuning advise over the net. Some things just can't be communicated such as engine sound, throttle response and the power band, which needs real-world testing to determine.

... and for all you know after all that searching, it might just be a loose pillion footrest

Edited January 3, 2012 by Pandora's Kitten :3

jtzx · January 4, 2012