batt voltages

[hamsterwhale]

errr... i observed my voltmeter lehh..

 

idlingg - 12.0 - 12.3v

ignition on but engine not start - 11.5v - 11.7v

 

moving on road - 12.5 - 12.7v ONLY..

pressing E.horn - 10.5v.. jialattt...

 

lol... so whats my bike prob here..

 

think either ur horn is drawing a great deal amt of current or or batt is small hence a huge fluctuation.

 

But from wat u describe above, at best wat i can say is out of ur 3 phase AC power generated out from alternator, only 2 phase is usable, the other 1 phase is lost due to a broken wire inside ur crankcase, have it check IMMEDIATELY!!!

 

If its juz a wire thats loose still ok, but if ur magnets were to dislodge from its holder, den good luck....how and why i know?because i exp it juz 2 days ago...2 winding coil on the stator were bent out of truth by the dislodging magnet....sigh....

[jms80]

sorry to hijack the thread..

wanna check mine.. very confusing..

 

early morning on engine (no headlight, no fan, no brake) = 12v

start bike, idling (no headlight, no fan, no brake) = 12.2 ~ 12.5v

idling (headlight on) = 11.5 ~ 11.7v

brake + headlight on = 11.2 ~ 11.3v

 

After riding for sometime, bike become hot, on fan, go back to carpark..

 

fan on, headlight on, brake on = 10.7 ~ 11v

 

Off everything after riding, back to 12.2 ~ 12.4v like tt..

 

Something i noticed, when i off engine and fan still running, my fan is louder (more powerful) when i off my headlight. On headlight, fan become weaker.

 

And one more thing, my bike is installed with voltage stabilizer...

 

Your charging system is charging too low pls have it check asap...

 

What can be the possible reasons? Is it the batt or rectifier/coil etc?

 

My readings are as such... Quite concerned with the 1st reading, cos when stuck in jb customs, then i jialat already if the fan turns on.

1. Engine running, headlight on, brake on, no throttle- abt 10.5v-10.9v

2. Engine running, headlight on, no brake, with throttle- abt 11.9v-12.5v

3. Engine running, no headlight/brake/throttle etc - abt 13.9v

4. Engine running, no headlight/brake, with throttle - abt 14.2v

[limbat]

Bikes are really not designed to be struck in a Traffic Jam...

 

Your charging system seems normal when running but a little low when idling ( wear & tear ). Try upgrading your charging system or use lower wattage bulbs & fan motor to conserve power in a jam. BTW how old is yr bike ?

[jms80]

6 years old.

 

The last time i did a recharge on batt charger, it only went up to 2 bars when i charge for an entire day.

[limbat]

It is better to charge yr battery regularly - keep the battery in tip-top condition bec yr charging system may not efficient due to wear & tear.

[quizesilver]

hi richard. thanks alot for the reconditioning.

 

was by at ur shop juz now.

 

haha the number u hate most

[limbat]

Hahahaa i dun hate yr number - it jus remind me of a similar number i never got to buy long long time ago ................ itis a very nice number you got........... cheers

[mepkoh]

sorry to hijack the thread..

wanna check mine.. very confusing..

 

early morning on engine (no headlight, no fan, no brake) = 12v

start bike, idling (no headlight, no fan, no brake) = 12.2 ~ 12.5v

idling (headlight on) = 11.5 ~ 11.7v

brake + headlight on = 11.2 ~ 11.3v

 

After riding for sometime, bike become hot, on fan, go back to carpark..

 

fan on, headlight on, brake on = 10.7 ~ 11v

 

Off everything after riding, back to 12.2 ~ 12.4v like tt..

 

Something i noticed, when i off engine and fan still running, my fan is louder (more powerful) when i off my headlight. On headlight, fan become weaker.

 

And one more thing, my bike is installed with voltage stabilizer...

 

 

battery at rest 12.4v= 80%charge....this is the minimum voltage...anything less means your battery is discharging more than charging...ie this means you may need to push start your bike...when it goes below12v..

 

i presume u are ridng a water/liquid cool bike..when u mention that bike when after a ride the fan is still turning when u stop at traffic lights or idling even when u switched off the ignition....if it is happenning your radiator water/liquid is gone...your engine isover heating

 

thatmaybe the reason your battery is discharging more than charging

i wouldsuggest that u check your radiator and EO level...anyone one of this will cause the fan to come on

[quizesilver]

Hahahaa i dun hate yr number - it jus remind me of a similar number i never got to buy long long time ago ................ itis a very nice number you got........... cheers

 

haha i'm joking!

[limbat]

haha i'm joking!

 

yes, mate..... i know ... i will call that BUM again later this evening.......

[quizesilver]

hi richard

pls look at this

hopefully u "understand" what i am saying abt the wire thingy.

 

http://www.heatersplus.com/nichrome.htm

 

u need to put it at some metal that does not conduct electric well.

[limbat]

Thank you - I think it is wat i will need - perfect. I will order some ...........

 

cheers mate

[Chaoz]

does installing voltage stabilizers have any major impact on the battery voltage? (e.g. lower than usual, not charging as much.. etc)

 

my bike's stock bulb is H4S 35/60W but I am using a normal 60/55W H4 bulb. Any implications? I also notice that the battery is losing charge quite quickly too..

 

I scared cannot start bike, so nowadays i nv on headlights when I start my bike.

[limbat]

does installing voltage stabilizers have any major impact on the battery voltage? (e.g. lower than usual, not charging as much.. etc)

 

Itis your call mate - read abt them on the CMO thread - some like, some hate it.

 

 

my bike's stock bulb is H4S 35/60W but I am using a normal 60/55W H4 bulb. Any implications? I also notice that the battery is losing charge quite quickly too..

 

H4S to H4 P43T no issue - yr battery may be weak - hv u ever try reconditioning or charging it ?

 

 

I scared cannot start bike, so nowadays i nv on headlights when I start my bike.

 

 

also try to off yr headlight b4 the end of yr trip as well..

[Chaoz]

H4S to H4 P43T no issue - yr battery may be weak - hv u ever try reconditioning or charging it ?

 

i tot the battery will charge when riding? need to manually charge it? The bike shop where i got the bike from told me the battery is new 2 months ago. How much to recondition the battery?

 

Itis your call mate - read abt them on the CMO thread - some like, some hate it.

 

It's already in my bike. I re-used the one in my previous bike. So i am wondering whether it is now 'stabilizing' my voltage making it not too high..

[limbat]

On vehicle charging is different from AC electronic charging - pulse charging for desulphation then bulk charging till the battery reaches 100% fully charged. Pls read at http://www.ctek.com.

 

VS do stablise volltage - since u got a unit - wat is your feeling abt it. Vehicles electronics do need stable voltage to be efficient.

[Chaoz]

i will say that the VS really worked on my phantom200.. this current bike not too sure.. in fact i din feel anything different when i first installed on my phantom.. it is only after 1yr of riding and when i removed it, then i discovered what it's doing all these while hahah..

 

so juz wondering whether it is the cause of my battery voltage..

[limbat]

Well - remove the VS & take another voltage reading to check..............

[iskandar]

hi guys,im riding fzs1000 05 model aka carb model...i just bought it for 6mths,when i just bought it,it was fine but after 1week the bike cant start..change batt,after 3days same prob change rectifier after 2days change coil...after dat ok now the only prob i have is when i leave the bike for more than 2days the batt will lose its current..voltage drop to 10v hence i need to push start..after dat it will run as per normal..

 

normal days on ingnition before crank :11.8-12v

after start during idling :12.2-12.6v

move of start charging slowly... :13.3v max up to 13.6v

fyi i off 1 of my headlight...if both on reading only 13v to 13.2v

 

bike is fine but i just need to noe why the batt cant hold the current...the batt is very expensive !!!! any bros out there can give advice thanks in advance...cheers

[Aalex82]

hi guys,im riding fzs1000 05 model aka carb model...i just bought it for 6mths,when i just bought it,it was fine but after 1week the bike cant start..change batt,after 3days same prob change rectifier after 2days change coil...after dat ok now the only prob i have is when i leave the bike for more than 2days the batt will lose its current..voltage drop to 10v hence i need to push start..after dat it will run as per normal..

 

normal days on ingnition before crank :11.8-12v

after start during idling :12.2-12.6v

move of start charging slowly... :13.3v max up to 13.6v

fyi i off 1 of my headlight...if both on reading only 13v to 13.2v

 

bike is fine but i just need to noe why the batt cant hold the current...the batt is very expensive !!!! any bros out there can give advice thanks in advance...cheers

 

some of the devices on the bike or even wire is leaking the power of the batt even thou the ign is not on..

have to check which device is causing this problem..

is better to use a multimeter to check the charging and batt condition.

voltmeter is not that accurate..

[.BlackSun.]

most likely retifier spoilt... don know how to spell.. ps haha:cheeky:

[iskandar]

other than erp i dont have any other extra device dat i noe draining the batt fr the bike ... haizzzzz headache leh some mech say my batt shud prob but its less than 3mth leh ....

[iskandar]

most likely retifier spoilt... don know how to spell.. ps haha:cheeky:

 

rectifier new bro,coil also new....

[iskandar]

battery at rest shoul be over 12v..anything less may have problem starting engine..

either your charging system is bad or maybe you have a serious case of leakages..

 

bro wat u mean charging system is bad or serious case of leakage???

[.BlackSun.]

yappie, agreed!