Problem moving off after stopping at traffic light...

[JbAtRaCeR]

"the airbox the center cylinders airstack is taller compared to the outer cylinder ones"...on mannn!...this are more complex than I thought. "Taller"..do you think its meant to 'slow' that portion of air input or what?

 

Dunno leh bro,now I got abit headache. So many2 new things to learn.

[VOODOO_DOLL]

Bro Ah Pek,

 

You sound very PRO explaining all the bike theory. I also having the same problem. Thinking to go for retuning plus dyno run. Can you recommend me a trust worthy mechanic or bike shop to do my bike? Can PM me also dun offend others bike shop. Thanks. (currently my bike is spec 2 with yoshi tri-oval full system cum stage 1 jetkit and KNN airfilter)

[doubl3mint]

hey bro ah pek, pm me too with the shop/mech! would like to find and stick to a reliable mechanic. appreciate it, thanks.

[Ah Pek]

Bro Ah Pek,

 

You sound very PRO explaining all the bike theory. I also having the same problem. Thinking to go for retuning plus dyno run. Can you recommend me a trust worthy mechanic or bike shop to do my bike? Can PM me also dun offend others bike shop. Thanks. (currently my bike is spec 2 with yoshi tri-oval full system cum stage 1 jetkit and KNN airfilter)

 

Thank you..but humble_humble. No lah..not a Pro but just some knowledge that I felt confident to share after so much reading from all over and many riders (who does their own mechanics) debating in various international forums from the past.

 

Yes, agreed with you that proper tuning needs proper equipment and hardcopy test results to show. There are VERY few mechanics that can do it by judgment..give and take 90%. Too bad the person I know has 'retired'..he may be somewhere but currently can't get in touch with him. Used to be the very best mechanic I ever know in Boon Siew workshop.

 

Again, have to consider the expensive equipment or hard to access equipment they have are in proper condition and always calibrated..this we NEVER get to know.

 

Generally speaking, mototiam practices economy by being stingy on spending $$$s to have their equipment always updated in spec condition. Frankly, most of us do not know about the use of it and we always go with an agreeable transaction with them end of the day. Improvement there is but is it worth the $$s we paid for and sometime a "placebo" just because it's tested on a "Dyno" equipment.

 

About Dyno read out data test sheet, I may be wrong..the improved graph shown has always been interpreted as "extra horsepower" in belief. This does not make sense when your piston, cyclinder, corn rod etc..are factory standard design to have maxs at 53 horsepower for S4. As much I have read..its just heting to your maxs horse power at the shortest possible time..now, that's good tuning at maxs performance at 53 horspower.

 

Am in no position to debate with 'professional' shop that owns this equipment as I do not have one..but commonsense will do sometime.

 

As for what shop, so sorry..don't have any to recommend as I have yet to used one with Dyno tuning. Not into race track activities currently thus not justifiable to spend $$$s just for a day to day bike usage.

 

Its obvious that there are quite a few here. May be you can tie up with JbAtRaCeR since he love playing with his ride and see if you guys can find a good mech that cannot bluff. Bear in mind though that in your case, its just tuning of carbs and whatever it has inside to match your exhaust. Advance should not be meddle with. Also..make sure your rubber manifold from carbs to engine inlet port is in good condition and airbox volume intake has not be modified.

[Ah Pek]

hey bro ah pek, pm me too with the shop/mech! would like to find and stick to a reliable mechanic. appreciate it, thanks.

 

LOL!..a bit late posting otherwise you would not have

 

Anyway..its hard to find good mech these days..IMHO. They are all paid employees and the boss have to make sure they do as much bikes everyday. I personally felt that the personal touch of good mechanics are gone.

 

Good mech has an attitude these days..that's "why wanna Kae_Kian" because they are paid so much end of the month. If you can make friends with then and get personal on the side line, I bet you get what you fork out. I used to ahve that kind of contact.

 

Moreover these days, tehre are many two newbies being chopped easily..so its become a habit by most mototiam to take advantage. Did they spoil the market?..go figure..LOL!..we are human and there are competition and every shop is doing it. You blur and dare not argue, their iron parang become "gold" ones..and they say good and its like that because your bike is like that..oso bo_pian.

 

Is there a solution..yes, be more knowledgeable to some extend by learning from experience people and do some fact research and have the guts to 'f' them off and asked for refund for anything done to your unsatisfactory..legal proceeding if necessary. These way..down the line, it will discourage them from 'malpractice' and 'laundering'.

 

But use your good judgment, not all shop are such and they are very few. Those good mech that I know are also in very difficult position. He may do a damn good job (usually takes longer time and boss can see) but the boss always name the $s to be paid.

[darren_soh86]

can i ride on this thread...?

 

i need help on my spec1.. evrytime i start the bike.. even after warming up.. when i move off.. it feels like the bike is sluggish... like 1 plug nvr fire liddat.. the engine goes grr grr grr.. rpm moves up alot slower than normal..

 

sumtimes it recover quickly n goes back to normal.. sumtimes it gets stuck in that state for maybe 5, 6 KM.. den suddenly vroom and recover..

 

it shows stuttering sumtimes even if it recovers from the "dormant" state.. like "vrom. vrom. vrom.. vrommm...

 

wat can be the issue?

 

water in the fuel tank? carb prb? plug issue?

[Ah Pek]

can i ride on this thread...?

 

i need help on my spec1.. evrytime i start the bike.. even after warming up.. when i move off.. it feels like the bike is sluggish... like 1 plug nvr fire liddat.. the engine goes grr grr grr.. rpm moves up alot slower than normal..

 

sumtimes it recover quickly n goes back to normal.. sumtimes it gets stuck in that state for maybe 5, 6 KM.. den suddenly vroom and recover..

 

it shows stuttering sumtimes even if it recovers from the "dormant" state.. like "vrom. vrom. vrom.. vrommm...

 

wat can be the issue?

 

water in the fuel tank? carb prb? plug issue?

 

Wah...sound really 'messy'. Can be anything. Where are you staying. Looks like have to do a physical check on your bike. But before doing so, do the following first...

 

1) Drain off your carbs float chamber fuel..all four of them.

 

2) Then start and go try out. If still got problem..go to 3)

 

3) Check see if yuour air filter clean or any foreign material debris stuck in there. Have it clean anyway. Then try again..still problem..go to 4)

 

4) Find out when was the last spark pluk changed. If new, do check that the spark plug cables connector are sit in proper. Pull them out and see if its wet and secure them back tightly. Go ride and see how...got problem still..go to 5)

 

5) Come see Ah Pek or go to mototiam.

[Hazmat_83]

Hi to all S4 rider,

 

Just bought my 2nd hand Super4 spec II for 2 months and i'm having problem moving off after stopping at traffic lights...

 

when throttle, it's moving very slowly and will suddenly move off...

 

Anyone can help???

 

When I took over my spec 2 a few months ago, I also had the same problem as the threadstarter. Some more my bike is stock. I guess many Vtec2 experience this . But I felt I could live with it so I adjusted by throttling just a little bit more with respect to my clutch position during moving off. It helped to mininmise the problem somewhat.

 

On Tuesday I sent my bike to Bikeworkz for some servicing more so because my mileage was due rather than to solve the moving off problem. I wanted to do a valve clearance and the engine oil package servicing. At the same time, I consulted Ah Beng regarding my bike also being a lil sluggish and he suggested to service carb, which I agreed. I also asked him to wash my KNN air filter.

 

I collected my bike on Friday and was happy that my bike was more responsive and not sluggish. And I was pleasantly surprised that the moving off problem has disappeared. So it could be one of those things that I did. The best thing is that I didn't have to replace any part of the carb, which is what alot of shops like to tell us to do.

 

So in summary, this are the things that I did:

1. Valve clearance

2. Service + tune Carb

3. Oil package (Maxima Extra, NGK Iridium, Oil Filter)

4. Clean air filter

 

I have a feeling that the Carb servicing and tuning was the one that solved the moving off problem, so those of you experiencing this might wanna try that option. Do go to a trustworthy shop that doesnt anyhow ask you to change Carb parts. Honda stuff are quite durable and reliable. I hope my explanation is easy to understand

Edited February 8, 2009 by Hazmat_83

[darren_soh86]

Wah...sound really 'messy'. Can be anything. Where are you staying. Looks like have to do a physical check on your bike. But before doing so, do the following first...

 

1) Drain off your carbs float chamber fuel..all four of them.

 

2) Then start and go try out. If still got problem..go to 3)

 

3) Check see if yuour air filter clean or any foreign material debris stuck in there. Have it clean anyway. Then try again..still problem..go to 4)

 

4) Find out when was the last spark pluk changed. If new, do check that the spark plug cables connector are sit in proper. Pull them out and see if its wet and secure them back tightly. Go ride and see how...got problem still..go to 5)

 

5) Come see Ah Pek or go to mototiam.

 

 

i realised 1 chamber the spark is not consistent.. everytime wen i juz start the bike.. i touch the exhaust headers bout 5min after i start.. 3 of them will be very hot.. cant touch for more than 2sec.. the remaining one will only be warm.. i tested last nite and today morning liao..

 

after i ride and it kinda "recover" the power.. i stop n touch.. all the exhaust headers will be hot.. maybe i shd replace the plugs? i have to remove the fuel tank to replace the plugs right?

[rayhunter]

last 1 months plus i went to a bike shop at yishun and the technician said that is something to do with my cabretor and ask me to change the 4 pins inside and i spent $100+ for that, but it's still the same after a few days...

haiz...

 

exactly what i'm experiencing now..changed the pins already but this problem come back after a week..i'm also sian already...

 

SO it it really due to the PIN??

OR carb are really sensitive to touch? once open up to so called service and

maintenance but ends up more prone to building up problems??

[Ah Pek]

i realised 1 chamber the spark is not consistent.. everytime wen i juz start the bike.. i touch the exhaust headers bout 5min after i start.. 3 of them will be very hot.. cant touch for more than 2sec.. the remaining one will only be warm.. i tested last nite and today morning liao..

 

after i ride and it kinda "recover" the power.. i stop n touch.. all the exhaust headers will be hot.. maybe i shd replace the plugs? i have to remove the fuel tank to replace the plugs right?

 

Not sure what brand is your plug but always stick to the pioneer makers and that is NGK or Denso. Forget about continental plug oso.

 

Usually all plugs are change as a set of 4 for S4..for all you know, that plug may not be well seated. No need to take out tank if you have the proper tools. The long spark plug opener that comes with the bike need only a long stalk screw driver (thick body). I think your plug is not seating properly..turn clockwise first and see if it goes further in but dont over tighten. If that's the case, the plug should be still alright.

[Ah Pek]

exactly what i'm experiencing now..changed the pins already but this problem come back after a week..i'm also sian already...

 

SO it it really due to the PIN??

OR carb are really sensitive to touch? once open up to so called service and

maintenance but ends up more prone to building up problems??

 

No. Have always been hinting to many ppl that opening carbs is the LAST thing you ever do and that is that when you need to change things. Forget about so call "carb servicing"..there is nothing to service inside but only to clean away and 'sludge' build up caused by dirty fuel residues which can easily be remove by having cleaner additive in your fuel. Basically, we are only concern about clearing the jet nozzles and float hinges. This adfditive cost less than $10 and save time and you get to use the bike. 9 out of 10 bikes carbd taken out..all very clean and its because our fuel these days are better managed.

 

The problem you guys are facing could be from bad quality fuel and contamination to electrical problems (talking about battery unable to supply enough cold cranking current after a year or so in usage). Could be rectifier connector gone bad to partially insufficient charging due to coil working inefficiently. Check your charging throughput..it should be 13.8v to 14+ when rev at 5.5k rpm. In SHORT..your battery is not providing enough CCA to the plugs. Poor grounding or never ground and old coil other factors if your battery or rectifier is new.

 

Please have your idy check done first before riding like a meaty sotong to your slaughter mototiam. All you need is a voltmeter, battery and alternator cct checker to zero in on your problem. Adding charger can ehance and improve situation too. I uses EPS and my own grounding.

[darren_soh86]

Not sure what brand is your plug but always stick to the pioneer makers and that is NGK or Denso. Forget about continental plug oso.

 

Usually all plugs are change as a set of 4 for S4..for all you know, that plug may not be well seated. No need to take out tank if you have the proper tools. The long spark plug opener that comes with the bike need only a long stalk screw driver (thick body). I think your plug is not seating properly..turn clockwise first and see if it goes further in but dont over tighten. If that's the case, the plug should be still alright.

 

i replace the plugs liao.. shag man. the plugs inside were NGK plugs and i believe they haven been replaced for damn long.. 1 plug electrode tip is totally black and some of the others came out with corrosion on the metallic area.. white powdery stuff and brown rust.. wth.

 

replaced them with Denso original from ah boy juz nw.. the test ride after the replacement were exhilarating.. no more choking n stuff.. will update again when i go to sch tmr if i am still exp problems.. thkx ah pek~!

[HamtaroS4]

No. Have always been hinting to many ppl that opening carbs is the LAST thing you ever do and that is that when you need to change things. Forget about so call "carb servicing"..there is nothing to service inside but only to clean away and 'sludge' build up caused by dirty fuel residues which can easily be remove by having cleaner additive in your fuel. Basically, we are only concern about clearing the jet nozzles and float hinges. This adfditive cost less than $10 and save time and you get to use the bike. 9 out of 10 bikes carbd taken out..all very clean and its because our fuel these days are better managed.

 

The problem you guys are facing could be from bad quality fuel and contamination to electrical problems (talking about battery unable to supply enough cold cranking current after a year or so in usage). Could be rectifier connector gone bad to partially insufficient charging due to coil working inefficiently. Check your charging throughput..it should be 13.8v to 14+ when rev at 5.5k rpm. In SHORT..your battery is not providing enough CCA to the plugs. Poor grounding or never ground and old coil other factors if your battery or rectifier is new.

 

Please have your idy check done first before riding like a meaty sotong to your slaughter mototiam. All you need is a voltmeter, battery and alternator cct checker to zero in on your problem. Adding charger can ehance and improve situation too. I uses EPS and my own grounding.

Yes Ah Pek, I totally agree with you on the carbeurator issue... From personal experiences, I regretted servicing my carb as my bike condition became worse after servicing... And had to change several parts.. And thats money not well spent... Now I know that cleaner additive is the way to go for cleaning the carbeurator... Tks Ah Pek for sharing..

[loyjwe]

No. Have always been hinting to many ppl that opening carbs is the LAST thing you ever do and that is that when you need to change things. Forget about so call "carb servicing"..there is nothing to service inside but only to clean away and 'sludge' build up caused by dirty fuel residues which can easily be remove by having cleaner additive in your fuel. Basically, we are only concern about clearing the jet nozzles and float hinges. This adfditive cost less than $10 and save time and you get to use the bike. 9 out of 10 bikes carbd taken out..all very clean and its because our fuel these days are better managed.

 

The problem you guys are facing could be from bad quality fuel and contamination to electrical problems (talking about battery unable to supply enough cold cranking current after a year or so in usage). Could be rectifier connector gone bad to partially insufficient charging due to coil working inefficiently. Check your charging throughput..it should be 13.8v to 14+ when rev at 5.5k rpm. In SHORT..your battery is not providing enough CCA to the plugs. Poor grounding or never ground and old coil other factors if your battery or rectifier is new.

 

Please have your idy check done first before riding like a meaty sotong to your slaughter mototiam. All you need is a voltmeter, battery and alternator cct checker to zero in on your problem. Adding charger can ehance and improve situation too. I uses EPS and my own grounding.

 

true our carb normally is still very clean inside 1. and bad quality fuel really plays a part. experience fuel using for abt 10 days or more and the feeling really can feel lor. so sluggish the bike and so lousy the fc for that fuel. after use finish and pump again can really feel the difference. so totally agree fuel plays a part. upZ

[syarif]

hmmm ah pek. electrical issues maybe? coz i just installed a voltage stabiliser on my bike. ill try have them remove n see what happen.

 

oh btw. the only solution for me now, when that lag happen, just clutch in, give a few throttle blow and the lag will go away.

[loyjwe]

then mayb pipe choked?

[rayhunter]

No. Have always been hinting to many ppl that opening carbs is the LAST thing you ever do and that is that when you need to change things. Forget about so call "carb servicing"..there is nothing to service inside but only to clean away and 'sludge' build up caused by dirty fuel residues which can easily be remove by having cleaner additive in your fuel. Basically, we are only concern about clearing the jet nozzles and float hinges. This adfditive cost less than $10 and save time and you get to use the bike. 9 out of 10 bikes carbd taken out..all very clean and its because our fuel these days are better managed.

 

The problem you guys are facing could be from bad quality fuel and contamination to electrical problems (talking about battery unable to supply enough cold cranking current after a year or so in usage). Could be rectifier connector gone bad to partially insufficient charging due to coil working inefficiently. Check your charging throughput..it should be 13.8v to 14+ when rev at 5.5k rpm. In SHORT..your battery is not providing enough CCA to the plugs. Poor grounding or never ground and old coil other factors if your battery or rectifier is new.

 

Please have your idy check done first before riding like a meaty sotong to your slaughter mototiam. All you need is a voltmeter, battery and alternator cct checker to zero in on your problem. Adding charger can ehance and improve situation too. I uses EPS and my own grounding.

 

Pek, i might not understand u totally but i know what u mean.

same as some of them,bike cond felt worse after the so called servicing,fuel consumption shot up too..

For fuel,every 3 full tanks of V power,will pump in a tank of 98,so i dun think fuel is compromise for me...

My charging and battery should be working fine..

[Ah Pek]

hmmm ah pek. electrical issues maybe? coz i just installed a voltage stabiliser on my bike. ill try have them remove n see what happen.

 

oh btw. the only solution for me now, when that lag happen, just clutch in, give a few throttle blow and the lag will go away.

 

In your case..what Loyjwe said may be right. Go to a corner somewhere and rev up to 12/13k rpm to clear your exhaust. If you see black smoke, keep doing it but at random, not continous. If no more black smoke..but still some brown left, its ok..stop and proceed to use Liquid Moly valve cleaning additive to fuel..this would help clear your harden carbon on the valve pretty good after three full tank.

 

Not sure what voltage stablizer you have but whatever, the important thing is the CCA (Cold Cranking Amperes) they produce and the capacity in cc they can handle. Hint: don't expect those below $150 ones able to handle efficiently. So far, I find EPS V3 best as larger capacitors and faster discharge type are used. Can only tell by test equipment that can read CCA and battery resistance values. I even had two unit installed..yah..super charge..LOL!

[Ah Pek]

then mayb pipe choked?

 

 

Possible and is one of the caused.

[Ah Pek]

Pek, i might not understand u totally but i know what u mean.

same as some of them,bike cond felt worse after the so called servicing,fuel consumption shot up too..

For fuel,every 3 full tanks of V power,will pump in a tank of 98,so i dun think fuel is compromise for me...

My charging and battery should be working fine..

 

Charging of battery and how well the charging goes..you won't be able to tell till you have a reasonably good multimeter set in volts to check. As for alternator, its three phase and one of the coil inductor may be inefficient..have to check the coil reading. Charging may work but not up to specs in short.

 

V-power is not necessary as S4 compress is at about 11..which is high but does not benefit from octane at V-power rating. 98 is very good enough. If you guys not sure how to go about, can always pm me to have acheck on your bike.

[doubl3mint]

how about 95? i usually pump caltex silver techron (95). is it suitable for the s4?

[Ah Pek]

how about 95? i usually pump caltex silver techron (95). is it suitable for the s4?

 

That's what I am using regularly

[doubl3mint]

good to know, good to know =)

[VOODOO_DOLL]

Bro Ah Pek,

 

If you test ride a bike can you tell whats the bike problem? I really admire ur knowledge in bike.... Just like to find out from ur opinion by fixing extra grounding(people always do the 3 pt or 5 pt grounding) really helps?