SBF Silverwings / HOM Cafe 2012

[SW9000]

I have one Qn..

Does your rear tyre wear become uneven? and then cause bumpy feeling when riding?

I just changed my tyres few months back and i pump air every 2 weeks.

strange leh..

 

For me, the roughness comes around 16k of use.

With pressure of 205 front and 240 rear.

Maybe you slim down liao the butt not enough cushion?

[SW9000]

Now bike everything swee swee except the slight front end wooble at 50km/h.

 

Grrrrr.

 

When using the previous set of tires, the woobly comes only after 10k of use and at 35km/h.

 

This time, the new tires fixed liao immediate felt the wooble at 50km/h.

Only balanced the front... in fact, a new rim!

Maybe will try balance the rear and see see.

 

Arboh... $10k blackwing anyone interested? hehehe.

BlackMax... Versys.... GS650...

[yifanz]

hi all,

i double confirm the voltage of batt again yesterday.

is YTZ12BS (stock one?)

before start bike : 12.99V

engine started :

 

looks okie right?

[yifanz]

hi bigcow,

saw in previous post you final got the front fork under controlled?

how you do that? DIY?

change thicker oil?

decrease the air area to 8-9cm?

[SW9000]

hi all,

i double confirm the voltage of batt again yesterday.

is YTZ12BS (stock one?)

before start bike : 12.99V

engine started :

 

looks okie right?

 

Switch on the bike = 12.4v +/-

Start the bike (idling) = 13v +/- depends on rpm.

Travelling = 14.3v +/-

 

Go fix a mini-voltmeter. Save the headache.

[Andydy]

I used about 8k mileage for the tires.. BUt only rear uneven, front is okay.

I feel like changing the whole damn tires..

 

For me, the roughness comes around 16k of use.

With pressure of 205 front and 240 rear.

Maybe you slim down liao the butt not enough cushion?

[Andydy]

Massage or spa?

This Thursday 29 Jul, I'm not going to Rail Mall.

 

I'll be joining my friends to Bukit Indah makan/shopping and then massage.

 

If interested, below are the details:

 

Date: 29 Jul 2010

Time: 5.30pm at GP Esso.

Leader: My friend Ah Ho. * I'm just a follower.

[joeling914]

imo, both are friendly and skillful mechs; so depends on which location is more convenient and who you feel more comfortable dealing with. clearing others mess? i guess they both won't mind. business opportunities mah, if other dun mess up, where got chance to take over... whahahaha

personally, botak's place is less convenient for me and i dun like the heavy road conditions surrounding his shop. i usually go KC/Future at kallang (on the way home from work) and K&T at ubi (nearby work) most of the time.

 

yes, your batt is being charged as you ride. but considering the duration of each trip (30~45mins?), its unlikely to be fully charged in just 2 weeks. here's another good excuse to go touring, battery charging... whahahaha

as a batt age, it takes longer to fully charge and holds charge over shorter periods; many causes such as sulfation, deterioration of electrolytes & electrodes, etc. e.g. the lead plates kenna "eaten" away slowly over time.

 

hi scoo;

has anyone thought of putting another batt of same spec. in parallel to the current? It will probably prolong its worklife and limits of adding more lighting accessories. Another plus point I would think is cost index of gel type of batt vs conventional (acid). Saving of 1~1 1/2 times the cost for electrolyte batt, relatively $50 vs $125 (dated 26/2/2009)

Yes it might take up some space but is only for 1/10 of it so to speak.

 

What yr thoughts? Carrying extra weight, 3.5kg more?

 

cheers

joeling

[joeling914]

Just changed my Rectifier. *I bought a spare in April but no time to install until now.

My old rectifier recorded normal charge at 14.3v when traveling.

The new ones can reached 14.7v.

 

Anyway, also noticed that Loois installed my IU by tagging to the rectifier.

My mech says it is wrong and took the chance to re-route the connection.

 

Also tried the Redline 10W40 engine oil ($22 per litre I think).

Feels light yet very quiet.

Will see if the performance can lasts or not.

 

 

hi SW9k & bros;

 

I've been using the Redline or Royal Purple from a source of which the price saving can be 25% off for MOQ of 4 litres.

Am not too sure of this forum rules, and therefore will not provide to bros out there the price but via PM.

 

cheers

joeling

by the way, i'm not in this trade but more of a hobbyist. Any gentle reminder would be appreciated if I'm out of the line. Thx

[yifanz]

Switch on the bike = 12.4v +/-

Start the bike (idling) = 13v +/- depends on rpm.

Travelling = 14.3v +/-

 

Go fix a mini-voltmeter. Save the headache.

 

hi bro,

ya, i would like to get one of those asap..

current the voltage and charging looks okie right?

on bike 12.99

idling 13+++ (less than 14)

rev up abit >14..

 

looks fine to me as compared? i saw earlier post by bigcow saying he also has this problem of display resetting for some time and its is perfectly fine?

i just wanna make sure the batt is at least good to keep if not i might just change it..

ytz12bs is stock right? from japanese? i heard there might be some coming in from china? i saw some chinese wording on the batt when i took out yesterday.. felt strange to me..

 

Cheers

[Herman M. YOkingco]

Silverwing experts please help. Everytime i start my sw the abs light illuminates. After running it disappears. What seems to be the problem please?

[SW9000]

hi bro,

ya, i would like to get one of those asap..

current the voltage and charging looks okie right?

on bike 12.99

idling 13+++ (less than 14)

rev up abit >14..

 

Cheers

 

The numbers are for simple diagnostic purposes.

Seems the charging is ok.

Batt of 12.99v is also good.

 

As long as no need to multiple start then good to go liao.

If voltage drops to below 12v (when switched on) then need to start worry.

 

The meter reset is an indication that the batt may not be able to effectively store power. Some may lasts a few months more, some maybe less.

Just pay attention to the voltage readings then most probably will save on pushing the bike.

[yifanz]

The numbers are for simple diagnostic purposes.

Seems the charging is ok.

Batt of 12.99v is also good.

 

As long as no need to multiple start then good to go liao.

If voltage drops to below 12v (when switched on) then need to start worry.

 

The meter reset is an indication that the batt may not be able to effectively store power. Some may lasts a few months more, some maybe less.

Just pay attention to the voltage readings then most probably will save on pushing the bike.

 

thx bro..

although sometime display reset, but always 1 press will start the engine, even in the morning..

i guess i will continue to monitor further and meanwhile get a proper guy to check the electronic system next week..

 

cheers

[scoobydoo]

there're usually signs and symptoms before the batt goes flat, it won't just die on you... provided you don't ignore those symptoms when they appear.

 

here's some examples if you do not have a voltmeter to help monitor batt health:

... difficulty to crank start; probably due to insufficient current

... headlight brilliance unstable ignition turned on, engine not started

... there's a faint but distinct "eeeeeee" sound coming from the bike with ignition turned on, engine not started. i heard that sound in the morning (but ignored it conveniently) of the day my batt died, leaving me stranded in the evening after work. dunno if others have heard or experienced the same.

... batt leaking or you see powdery stuffs on it

... etc

 

[scoobydoo]

has anyone thought of putting another batt of same spec. in parallel to the current? It will probably prolong its worklife and limits of adding more lighting accessories...

 

What yr thoughts? Carrying extra weight, 3.5kg more?

this idea was discussed during one of the gatherings we had quite some time back, think in 2008. conclusion was a scientific NO! not worth the risk

a few key considerations:

 

(a) according to science, while voltage remains the same when we connect 2 or a few batts together in parallel, the current capacity is multiplied accordingly. having more power (AH) is good, but too much will fry the electronics (including ECU) of the bike.

 

(b) stock battery has capacity of 11AH and if we put another in parallel, we'll have to put another 11AH batt, i.e. total 22AH and that sounds like a volcano ready to go. if you read below quote, putting batt of different capacities in parallel could shorten the lifespan of both the batteries and the charging device, the alternator/magnetic coil.

 

© the alternator of every electrical system is designed to sufficiently power n charge the battery of the system. the SW's magnetic coil is likely insufficient to support the "upsized" battery setup and thus have to slog overtime... it'll only be a matter of time before it gets burnt out.

 

http://www.streetmusician.co.uk/Assets/connectingbatteryparallel.gif

 

Connecting in Parallel

When connecting in Parallel you are doubling the capacity (amp hours) of the battery while maintaining the voltage of one of the individual batteries.

 

Important notes: When connecting batteries in a pack there are some important things to keep in mind - - Find out the requirements of your application. For example: Don't double the capacity on your Power Wheels vehicle if you're not supposed to...you could burn up the engine. Follow the recommended guidelines for your application. - Don't use two different chemistries when connecting a pack. Usually the voltages will be different, but more importantly the charge rates will be different and the capacities may be different, thus resulting in a shortened life span. - Try to match capacities as much as possible. When connecting batteries in a pack you should try to match the capacities as much as possible to avoid discharging one battery quicker than another. A pack operates at a combined voltage so your one cell that discharges quicker will likely discharge deeper than it may be able to recover from.

[Fusionjaz]

Hey yifanz,

 

I have rectify the noise from the clutch assembly. I will post some pics which I taken today at KC Choong workshop

 

i have a funny sqeaky sound at 60km/ml and disappear when i hit 70km/h (or the wind sound cover the funny sound)

if i'm not wrong, the sound is coming from the left back of my SW..

anything harmful?

[yifanz]

Hey yifanz,

 

I have rectify the noise from the clutch assembly. I will post some pics which I taken today at KC Choong workshop

 

hi Fusion,

i went visit ah choong today for the 1st time.. he didnt realise or hear the similar sound i hear.. he said should be okie de..

[yifanz]

today went visit ah choong at around everning to see whether is there further problem on my sw..

engine oil leaking (is it normal situation seen for Sw).

ah choong is very good. like the way he works.. spend quite sometime even over his office hours to get the engine done for me..

change engine oil and gear oil also as the engine cover need to be strip and reseal..

front axle bearing also gone, lucky he realise that part also.. funny noise coming out..

 

because i went too late, didnt have much time to check on other area but overall, tires running out soon, brakes running out soon..

next visit hope can clean the transmision area and further diagnose any faults..

ask for the bigcow mod on the front fork.. sound pretty good.. will consider having that mod too..

 

thanks all, thanks daniel for making a call to choong..

[Fusionjaz]

These are the pics taken during the replacement of the bearing. Basically it was the defective roller bearing that cause the noise.

 

 

Well this is the defective roller bearing. It was filled with hardened grease.( Choong and I think that the grease has lost the viscosity causing insufficient lubrication )

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00072-20100729-1622.jpg

 

There are 2 bearing in the clutch assembly. The roller bearing is the culprit, the sealed bearing seems ok but when you buy the new parts, it comes with two so might as well get it replace.

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00074-20100729-1623.jpg

 

 

 

A side by side comparison of a new bearing and old bearing

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00075-20100729-1626.jpg

 

 

The clutch assembly was cleaned before assembling. Choong uses sprit to clean away the old grease( it was hardened ). Re-greasing is necessary

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00078-20100729-1627.jpg

 

This is where the roller bearing is installed.

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00079-20100729-1629.jpg

 

Well after putting everything back together, the noise that i initially thought was the clutch slippage is eliminated. Now all I can hear is my noisy exhaust pipe. Heehee:cheeky:

Edited July 29, 2010 by Fusionjaz

[Fusionjaz]

These are the pics taken during the replacement of the bearing. Basically it was the defective roller bearing that cause the noise.

 

 

Well this is the defective roller bearing. It was filled with hardened grease.( Choong and I think that the grease has lost the viscosity causing insufficient lubrication )

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00072-20100729-1622.jpg

 

There are 2 bearing in the clutch assembly. The roller bearing is the culprit, the sealed bearing seems ok but when you buy the new parts, it comes with two so might as well get it replace.

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00074-20100729-1623.jpg

 

 

 

A side by side comparison of a new bearing and old bearing

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00075-20100729-1626.jpg

 

 

The clutch assembly was cleaned before assembling. Choong uses sprit to clean away the old grease( it was hardened ). Re-greasing is necessary

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00078-20100729-1627.jpg

 

This is where the roller bearing is installed.

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww204/chartnexusforum/CNX%20Album%203/IMG00079-20100729-1629.jpg

 

Well after putting everything back together, the noise that i initially thought was the clutch slippage is eliminated. Now all I can hear is my noisy exhaust pipe. Heehee:cheeky:

[joeling914]

a few key considerations:

 

(a) according to science, while voltage remains the same when we connect 2 or a few batts together in parallel, the current capacity is multiplied accordingly. having more power (AH) is good, but too much will fry the electronics (including ECU) of the bike.

Query: The extra AH increases the batt capacity for the same load unless you add power hungry devices. This will fry electronics.

 

(b) stock battery has capacity of 11AH and if we put another in parallel, we'll have to put another 11AH batt, i.e. total 22AH and that sounds like a volcano ready to go. if you read below quote, putting batt of different capacities in parallel could shorten the lifespan of both the batteries and the charging device, the alternator/magnetic coil.

 

Query: Parallel batt in this case is of same capacity, say another 11AH for this project. We assume no extra load or modification to the bike circuitry. No Aircon please.

 

© the alternator of every electrical system is designed to sufficiently power n charge the battery of the system. the SW's magnetic coil is likely insufficient to support the "upsized" battery setup and thus have to slog overtime... it'll only be a matter of time before it gets burnt out.

 

Query: Filling up a bigger reservoir instead of a tank takes longer time and when bike stops, all activities end (no stress on the alternator)

 

hi Scoo;

 

See comments above. For discussion only.

 

Alternatively, we can replace it with conventional batt mounted upright with strong holding when it is end of life. the cost saving is just too tempting to continue using the gel type & to maximise the storage space.

 

thanks for sharing

joeling

Edited July 30, 2010 by joeling914

[yifanz]

Hi guys,

wet friday to start with..

[scoobydoo]

hehe... dun test a construction worker on electrical science leh. studied mech engineering some 21 yrs ago, dunno how much is left by now due to dementia ... whahaha

 

posted was what i remembered from the previous discussions, not gospel truths... good that SWingers with knowledge in electrical field are contributing for the greater good

 

Query: The extra AH increases the batt capacity for the same load unless you add power hungry devices. This will fry electronics.

does that mean having 22Ah is ok as long as we don't add more gadgets to draw power from the bike? but seems like defeat the purpose coz having a bigher capacity batt is to supply power to all the add-ons like HID, blink-blinks, gps, hp, sound system, etc

 

Query: Parallel batt in this case is of same capacity, say another 11AH for this project. We assume no extra load or modification to the bike circuitry. No Aircon please.

power hungry mods are like HID and "christmas tree"... once on, can see voltmeter reading drop. i tot upsize is meant to support the power hungry add-ons?

 

Query: Filling up a bigger reservoir instead of a tank takes longer time and when bike stops, all activities end (no stress on the alternator)

ic... tot a more powerful alternator is required to support the electrical needs of the bike and charge the bigger batts at the same time

[scoobydoo]

Hi guys,

wet friday to start with..

starts with a wet bed, ends with a wet dream http://smileys.on-my-web.com/repository/Laughing/hahaha-024.gif

[SW9000]

Wah... my office declares 2 days off for NDP! Yeah!

 

If not free to go during NDP week can still claim off-in-lieu later.

 

Now I can add 2 extra days to my Sept trip.