Honda ST1100

[hendon]

my friend oso encounter tis problem b4.

 

it could be the grade of engine oil used..e quality might be too gd.

[FunkyChicken]

grinding gear sound, i suspect is the engine oil u use, u mean the gear box when u kick ur gear rite?

 

if when u moving has this grinding sound is ur final gear drive worn off..correct me if im wrong.

 

ur clutch, happened to me a period of time, i drain all the dot 4 fluid and replace wif a new fresh motul brakeline. no probs after that.

 

no worries victor, st is a damn and robust bike! and laucheows like simon is more than willing to guide us.

[Supertrapp]

Hello....

 

I am riding a 94 St1100 28Amp. Currently my mech says that my alternator is faulty that cos the lack in charging. I did change my batt and rectifier before hand, but it seem that the charging is still down. The review of my Mech is that 1 of 3 wire is down....

 

1) My Mech mention of lack of stock in Alternator, ware can I find brand new one?

2) The cost of the parts and labour will go up to $600++

3) Is 2nd hand alternator reliable.

4) Is there other options.

 

 

Thanks in advance.

[acid]

Originally posted by Supertrapp@Nov 24 2006, 11:09 AM

Hello....

 

I am riding a 94 St1100 28Amp. Currently my mech says that my alternator is faulty that cos the lack in charging. I did change my batt and rectifier before hand, but it seem that the charging is still down. The review of my Mech is that 1 of 3 wire is down....

 

1) My Mech mention of lack of stock in Alternator, ware can I find brand new one?

2) The cost of the parts and labour will go up to $600++

3) Is 2nd hand alternator reliable.

4) Is there other options.

 

 

Thanks in advance.

 

supertrapp, if cost is an issue, then i recommend u to buy an extra battery and an 12V charger. U can get the 12V charger from Sim Lim Towers.

 

Battery and charger should cost around $100.

 

bring along your secondary battery and charger whenever you ride.

 

changing rectifier and alternator is quite expensive and the rates vary alot. i heard from Gopa that he can change 1 brand new alternator for $400 plus.

 

maybe i hear wrongly. Dun quote me.For the most accurate information, please ask Gopa directly.

[GiantValk]

Hi guys,

 

Just started riding an ST.

 

Best ride so far.

 

To keep it short, I have a Hepco topbox with baserack and would like to attach to the bike.

 

1. Anyone selling the attachment? Second hand would be best.

2. Anywhere I can get one? Apart from M Technik?

3. Worst come to worst I have to go Seng Kwang.

 

DO send me an SMS at 96978579.

 

Would like to meet up with fellow ST riders, any meetings?

 

Thanks!

 

Yeong

[FunkyChicken]

i have the givi bracket for st for sale..pm me ur no. if ur interested

[Simon Soh]

Originally posted by Supertrapp@Nov 24 2006, 11:09 AM

Hello....

 

I am riding a 94 St1100 28Amp. Currently my mech says that my alternator is faulty that cos the lack in charging. I did change my batt and rectifier before hand, but it seem that the charging is still down. The review of my Mech is that 1 of 3 wire is down....

 

1) My Mech mention of lack of stock in Alternator, ware can I find brand new one?

2) The cost of the parts and labour will go up to $600++

3) Is 2nd hand alternator reliable.

4) Is there other options.

 

 

Thanks in advance.

Supertrapp,

 

brandnew replacement part for ur ST1100 28AMP alternator u need to find out stock availabilty from any active Honda parts stockist, but it's hell lots of work to gain access to replace if u r thinking of DIYing it FYI.

 

before u fund out for repairs make sure the root plm is correctly found & make sure what u paid is what u suppose to get, not re-conditioned.

[Simon Soh]

Originally posted by GiantValk@Nov 24 2006, 04:55 PM

Hi guys,

 

Just started riding an ST.

 

Best ride so far.

 

To keep it short, I have a Hepco topbox with baserack and would like to attach to the bike.

 

1. Anyone selling the attachment? Second hand would be best.

2. Anywhere I can get one? Apart from M Technik?

3. Worst come to worst I have to go Seng Kwang.

 

DO send me an SMS at 96978579.

 

Would like to meet up with fellow ST riders, any meetings?

 

Thanks!

 

Yeong

GiantValk,

 

check with 'momo' how he 'fierce' up his ST1100 with his HB rear box!

 

FYI, we no longer meeting weekly, more info can be found at my last posted msg HERE.

[GiantValk]

Thanks Simon.

 

2 questions:

 

How many litres left after the fuel indicator lights up? What's the capacity of the ST tank? 25 or 28 L?

 

Where's the coolant reservoir located? Always good to check periodically.

 

Thanks a lot.

[N_RIDER]

Originally posted by GiantValk@Nov 25 2006, 05:24 PM

Thanks Simon.

 

2 questions:

 

How many litres left after the fuel indicator lights up? What's the capacity of the ST tank? 25 or 28 L?

 

Where's the coolant reservoir located? Always good to check periodically.

 

Thanks a lot.

Hi, maybr I can assist.

 

Our ST11 fuel capacity is 28L.

 

The coolent reservoir is located at the right hand side center,need to open the the side cover. Recently I went to GO PA and saw my bike coolent reservoir.

 

As for the reserve, not very certain. Maybe Simon can assist.

 

[Simon Soh]

Originally posted by N_RIDER@Nov 25 2006, 07:07 PM

Hi, maybr I can assist.

 

Our ST11 fuel capacity is 28L.

 

The coolent reservoir is located at the right hand side center,need to open the the side cover. Recently I went to GO PA and saw my bike coolent reservoir.

 

As for the reserve, not very certain. Maybe Simon can assist.

 

N RIDER,

 

thanks for ur inputing.

 

our fuel reserve capacity is from 5 - 5.5ltrs, it's never accurate, theorically is 5ltrs in reserve. the reserve lite will up once it has consume 23ltrs, the needle usually will be at just below the thicker white line between the red.

 

for all model coolant reservoir is located right-side on where u seat on, u must remove lower side fairing where ur rear shock absorber is. for ABS model reservoir container is next to the right engine block, conveniently reserve coolant can be monitor hassle free.

 

check coolant level, top it to 'high' level if it's not enough. do not over fill it all the up else u'll see green water vomit out during operating temperature. few days later check it's level again to make sure no coolant lost.

[Niti]

Hi Bros...

 

Been having this prob lately.... Every morning when I start my bike, the rpm would go less than 1k rpm. It would decrease slowly and then engine dies. I got to start the bike again but after a while, it died again. The only way to counter this was to open the throttle a bit for like 2 3 mins and only then the rpm would go back to normal, around 1rpm. There was also a lot of vibration on the bike...

 

I tried increasing the rpm when the bike is idling (before it died) but after 2 3 mins the rpm shoots up to like 2rpm. Again, got to go through the hassle of lowering the rpm back..

 

Wats going on man....

[Simon Soh]

Originally posted by Niti@Nov 26 2006, 11:18 AM

Hi Bros...

 

Been having this prob lately.... Every morning when I start my bike, the rpm would go less than 1k rpm. It would decrease slowly and then engine dies. I got to start the bike again but after a while, it died again. The only way to counter this was to open the throttle a bit for like 2 3 mins and only then the rpm would go back to normal, around 1rpm. There was also a lot of vibration on the bike...

 

I tried increasing the rpm when the bike is idling (before it died) but after 2 3 mins the rpm shoots up to like 2rpm. Again, got to go through the hassle of lowering the rpm back..

 

Wats going on man....

Niti,

 

urs is the T11 or X13..?

[Supertrapp]

Originally posted by acid@Nov 24 2006, 02:04 PM

supertrapp, if cost is an issue, then i recommend u to buy an extra battery and an 12V charger. U can get the 12V charger from Sim Lim Towers.

 

Battery and charger should cost around $100.

 

bring along your secondary battery and charger whenever you ride.

 

changing rectifier and alternator is quite expensive and the rates vary alot. i heard from Gopa that he can change 1 brand new alternator for $400 plus.

 

maybe i hear wrongly. Dun quote me.For the most accurate information, please ask Gopa directly.

Hello

 

can yuo kindly advise how the charger go about to the battt??

 

Meaning does the charger charge the batt while riding?

[Supertrapp]

Originally posted by Simon Soh@Nov 25 2006, 03:34 AM

Supertrapp,

 

brandnew replacement part for ur ST1100 28AMP alternator u need to find out stock availabilty from any active Honda parts stockist, but it's hell lots of work to gain access to replace if u r thinking of DIYing it FYI.

 

before u fund out for repairs make sure the root plm is correctly found & make sure what u paid is what u suppose to get, not re-conditioned.

Hi hi...

 

how do I know... I can only listen to the advise of the bikeshop.

Honda dealer? anyone can recommend?

 

BTW.. anyone tried to change his 28amp to a 40amp?? People on the net mention the possiblilty.. anyone intend to try or have tried?

[acid]

Originally posted by Supertrapp@Nov 27 2006, 11:18 AM

Hello

 

can yuo kindly advise how the charger go about to the battt??

 

Meaning does the charger charge the batt while riding?

 

oh! u misunderstand me...

 

what i mean was :

 

at the end of the day, after u park your bike, u take out the Battery A and put in Battery B.

go home and charge up Battery A.

 

ant the end of tmr, u park your bike, take out Battery B, put in Battery A. go home and charge up Battery B.

 

I suggested this because u asked for "other alternatives"... changing a brand new alternator is really costly. I know because I have changed it before. if your budget does not allow u to change now, why not use this method until you budget allows. it is better than getting a re-con and second hand alternator.

[coolant4x4]

Originally posted by Niti@Nov 26 2006, 11:43 AM

Hi Bros...

 

Been having this prob lately.... Every morning when I start my bike, the rpm would go less than 1k rpm. It would decrease slowly and then engine dies. I got to start the bike again but after a while, it died again. The only way to counter this was to open the throttle a bit for like 2 3 mins and only then the rpm would go back to normal, around 1rpm. There was also a lot of vibration on the bike...

 

I tried increasing the rpm when the bike is idling (before it died) but after 2 3 mins the rpm shoots up to like 2rpm. Again, got to go through the hassle of lowering the rpm back..

 

Wats going on man....

I presumed it's stx13 your are refering to.

 

I had that plm quite awhile ago until i got quite frustrated! But it goes away without any meddling...it could be the weather but i'm not quite certain.

 

I would switch-off all lights to make it rev a little higher until it idles back to 1Krpm but I think in your case, you have none of that switch!

 

Sorry mate no hard-facts solution to your plm!

 

cheers!

[Niti]

Originally posted by Simon Soh@Nov 26 2006, 11:53 AM

Niti,

 

urs is the T11 or X13..?

Mine is x13 bro

 

The prob very funny one.... I parked my bike at mscp... When I start my bike before going to work, everytime sure got this prob... But when I start my bike before going home from work, no problem at all!!

 

[player1799]

Hi ppl

 

Wanna ask if the resale of st is high?

Cos i'm planning to get a FL Breast..

But scare to commit..

Due to the maintanence ...

Need to pros sounding advice..

Thanks a million..

[STealth]

Originally posted by Supertrapp@Nov 27 2006, 11:25 AM

Hi hi...

 

how do I know... I can only listen to the advise of the bikeshop.

Honda dealer? anyone can recommend?

 

BTW.. anyone tried to change his 28amp to a 40amp?? People on the net mention the possiblilty.. anyone intend to try or have tried?

Pls change your alternator.. should not have any issue on the upgrade to 40Amp. Alternator does supply the necessary electricity to the bike. If it is faulty, more of electrical components will fail eventually if you don't change it. Check with 500. He shld be able to help. Unfortunately this would be costly as the repair would incur a lot of labour. Good luck!!

 

Eric

[mySTic4256]

Originally posted by Simon Soh@Nov 9 2006, 12:57 AM

victor_03,

 

not sure what sound was that.

 

for ur abnormal close bitting point, check ur clutch fluid reservor if it's low level or empty, top it up if it does, keep filling & pumping in until u get it stifften. or if it's mud-dirty, replace the whole content in it. use only DOT 4 brake fluid.

 

there might be possiblity of corroded oil seal within the pump-kit or slave pump unit.

Hey hey simon......long time no hear from you and suddenly call out to me at the traffic light huh? ahahahah still driving around?

 

I may have some answers to this problem......may i offer my views on what could be the problem? ehehehehe let me see if i can remember my little knowledge on this bike.....

 

One problem could be this

 

The rear shaft splint has been corroded, either the part where the gears engage as it could have been missed out on replacement as well as oiling, thus when the gears are engaged, there is a rough sound like metal teeth grinding....the remedy would be to either change the cogs and flush the lubricant if the rear splint is damaged....

 

The clutch could play a part, but i think it is quite rare that this happens......unless the clutch pump kit is damaged, or seal is worn, the clutch is not effectively engaged or disengaged and is forcibly causing the gears to be thrown.....thus activating the gear and causing the bike to move forward.....like that, the entire clutch kit would have to be changed......and the system flushed.......

 

my 2 cents worth......

 

teacher john - no longer a teacher.......ahahahah

[Simon Soh]

Originally posted by mySTic4256@Dec 7 2006, 07:37 PM

I may have some answers to this problem......may i offer my views on what could be the problem? ehehehehe let me see if i can remember my little knowledge on this bike.....

 

One problem could be this

 

The rear shaft splint has been corroded, either the part where the gears engage as it could have been missed out on replacement as well as oiling, thus when the gears are engaged, there is a rough sound like metal teeth grinding....the remedy would be to either change the cogs and flush the lubricant if the rear splint is damaged....

 

The clutch could play a part, but i think it is quite rare that this happens......unless the clutch pump kit is damaged, or seal is worn, the clutch is not effectively engaged or disengaged and is forcibly causing the gears to be thrown.....thus activating the gear and causing the bike to move forward.....like that, the entire clutch kit would have to be changed......and the system flushed.......

 

my 2 cents worth......

 

 

 

[Rsexxyy]

SALE!! SALE!! SALE!!

 

Up for grab is the Xenon HID conversion kit specially for motorcycles!!!

 

H7 bulb base..selling at $170 with installation at Bikewerks!!

H4 and other bulb base also available

 

The MO thread is up and running..Pls proceed to to the Product Mass Ordering thread for more detail. Thank you!!

 

Questions?? Pls post at the Product Mass Ordering thread thank you!!

[Bawga99]

Hello ST riders,

 

I am new to ST and want to know more. How much will cost 5 year old ST? Avg maintenance cost/year and fuel consumption? Where to check out? Tks

[momo1605198623]

Originally posted by Simon Soh@Nov 25 2006, 03:44 AM

GiantValk,

 

check with 'momo' how he 'fierce' up his ST1100 with his HB rear box!

 

FYI, we no longer meeting weekly, more info can be found at my last posted msg HERE.

mine is brand new one leh.

saw another white one wif H&B box but diff model.

 

bro GiantValk, u may wana check with M-Technik for the spare parts.

saw from another thread Biketech oso have.