Brake disc

[mild_slevin]

Hi guys,

 

Just wanna seek your views on buying brake disc from dealer or bike shop...

 

1) buying from bike shop, I been quote with the price of 190+18 for brake pad. I believe the price inclusive of installation.

 

2) getting it from dealer, somewhat cheaper than shop but exclusive of installation.

 

Actually my aim to get it done cost effectively, I even tried e-bay but many seller can't confirm if the brake disc works (*dimension) on my vehicle.

[Demon]

Hi guys,

 

Just wanna seek your views on buying brake disc from dealer or bike shop...

 

1) buying from bike shop, I been quote with the price of 190+18 for brake pad. I believe the price inclusive of installation.

 

are you asking for pads or disc ?

 

What bike is yours ?

 

What brand was quote to you ?

 

Even it's for all the brakes ie. twin caliper for front and single for rear, $190 is sounds very expensive as it is about $63/set.

 

Alot of riders think having performance (ie. expensive) pads are better than regular pads which is absolutely nonsense. For performance pads to be effective, the pads need to operate at a certain temperature thus these pads are suitable for tracks and not for roads.

 

Installation of pads are straight forward and not difficult to learn.

 

[mild_slevin]

are you asking for pads or disc ?

 

What bike is yours ?

 

What brand was quote to you ?

 

Even it's for all the brakes ie. twin caliper for front and single for rear, $190 is sounds very expensive as it is about $63/set.

 

Alot of riders think having performance (ie. expensive) pads are better than regular pads which is absolutely nonsense. For performance pads to be effective, the pads need to operate at a certain temperature thus these pads are suitable for tracks and not for roads.

 

Installation of pads are straight forward and not difficult to learn.

 

 

I'm asking for disc and pad too, I'm riding a CB900F and the brand I'm quoted was OEM.

Yes, some article clearly state that certain brake pad (*depending on material) have different braking characteristic.

Installation? You need to re-align the wheel? OR usually the caliper can be easily remove from the bracket?

Now I'm considering re-adjusting the brake caliper piston, bringing them closer to the disc... any suggestion?

Edited July 5, 2010 by mild_slevin

[Demon]

I'm asking for disc and pad too, I'm riding a CB900F and the brand I'm quoted was OEM.

 

Newfren has pads for your bike, you can check with Chong Aik on the prices.

 

For CB900F, same for front and rear, part no is FD.0016. Just double check the part number with them.

 

 

Installation? You need to re-align the wheel? OR usually the caliper can be easily remove from the bracket?

 

I am not familiar with your model but I am not aware of the need to re-align the wheel for changing pads.

 

For the front, you would need to dismount the caliper to replace the pads. No need to touch the front wheel.

 

For the rear, it will depend the mounting of the caliper. On some bikes, the caliper is slotted with the rear wheel axle to the swing arm, so that would involve dismantling of the rear wheel to a certain extend.

 

[RageMyDream]

The price is for per brake disc or 3 brake discs?

If for 3 discs, then is super cheap

I changed mine but using previous pads. And ever since the change of disc, whenever I brake, there is a squeaking sound in front. Went bike shop to check but they say wait till the disc to "season". Not sure if it's true or not.

 

I bought the 3 discs for 520, excludes installation.

And to change all the discs, unless u have all the tools, otherwise it's better to let your mechanics to do the job

[mild_slevin]

Newfren has pads for your bike, you can check with Chong Aik on the prices.

 

For CB900F, same for front and rear, part no is FD.0016. Just double check the part number with them.

 

I am not familiar with your model but I am not aware of the need to re-align the wheel for changing pads.

 

For the front, you would need to dismount the caliper to replace the pads. No need to touch the front wheel.

 

For the rear, it will depend the mounting of the caliper. On some bikes, the caliper is slotted with the rear wheel axle to the swing arm, so that would involve dismantling of the rear wheel to a certain extend.

 

 

NewFren is a brand? OK, I shall take note of the product number. I have check out the service manual, there isn't a need to remove the whole caliper if its just brake pad replacement.

Thanks for the important information.

 

The price is for per brake disc or 3 brake discs?

If for 3 discs, then is super cheap

I changed mine but using previous pads. And ever since the change of disc, whenever I brake, there is a squeaking sound in front. Went bike shop to check but they say wait till the disc to "season". Not sure if it's true or not.

 

I bought the 3 discs for 520, excludes installation.

And to change all the discs, unless u have all the tools, otherwise it's better to let your mechanics to do the job

 

LOL, sadly 190 is just rear OEM disc... wah 520, urs "Braking" disc rite? Haha the services of power tools are essential.

I manage to find another brake disc from UK, cost about 100+SGD exclude shipping. Problem is I has yet factor in the cost for installation, not sure if it end up the same as 190?

[Demon]

NewFren is a brand? OK,

 

Newfren is a brand, and a very established one.

 

I have been using Goldfren pads all the time, when Chong Aik recommended me Newfren, I was wondering what stupid brand is that too.

 

 

LOL, sadly 190 is just rear OEM disc... wah 520, urs "Braking" disc rite? Haha the services of power tools are essential.

I manage to find another brake disc from UK, cost about 100+SGD exclude shipping. Problem is I has yet factor in the cost for installation, not sure if it end up the same as 190?

 

You did not mention the reason for replacing the rear rotor.

 

One way to extend the life of the rotor is to skim it. Although it will reduce the thickness, it should be still very safe especially it is the rear which is not the main braking force, and it is the non-ventilated type which will have plenty of metal left.

 

[mild_slevin]

Newfren is a brand, and a very established one.

 

I have been using Goldfren pads all the time, when Chong Aik recommended me Newfren, I was wondering what stupid brand is that too.

 

You did not mention the reason for replacing the rear rotor.

 

One way to extend the life of the rotor is to skim it. Although it will reduce the thickness, it should be still very safe especially it is the rear which is not the main braking force, and it is the non-ventilated type which will have plenty of metal left.

 

 

Oh the reason for the replacement was both side of the rear disc has worn out... but the wear was not even, if you slide ur finger along the surface, you can feel "bump".

Yes, the mech did recommend skimming but not sure if its wise to do so? Hence I'm in a dilemma to change or skim it.

 

The brake pad material should be?

Edited July 6, 2010 by mild_slevin

[RageMyDream]

I dun think the labour fee would be a factor.

Your mechanic charges u so much

 

Mine is from S3 performance

[Demon]

Oh the reason for the replacement was both side of the rear disc has worn out... but the wear was not even, if you slide ur finger along the surface, you can feel "bump".

Yes, the mech did recommend skimming but not sure if its wise to do so? Hence I'm in a dilemma to change or skim it.

 

If it's the front rotors, I usually advise against it for safety reasons unless you have the actual rotor thickness tolerance. However, for the rear rotor, it is definitely safe to do it especially if it has not been skimmed before.

 

It is recommended to use new pads with new rotors or newly skimmed rotors.

 

Skimming is cheap compared to buying a new rotor.

 

I know of a machining shop that does rotor skimming. For car rotors, they charge $55/pair including dismantling and re-assembling. Not sure if they will do for bikes, but if you bring them just the rotor, I'm sure they will be able to skim it.

 

Edited July 6, 2010 by Demon

[mild_slevin]

I dun think the labour fee would be a factor.

Your mechanic charges u so much

 

Mine is from S3 performance

 

LOL... shall check it out again!

 

If it's the front rotors, I usually advise against it for safety reasons unless you have the actual rotor thickness tolerance. However, for the rear rotor, it is definitely safe to do it especially if it has not been skimmed before.

 

It is recommended to use new pads with new rotors or newly skimmed rotors.

 

Skimming is cheap compared to buying a new rotor.

 

I know of a machining shop that does rotor skimming. For car rotors, they charge $55/pair including dismantling and re-assembling. Not sure if they will do for bikes, but if you bring them just the rotor, I'm sure they will be able to skim it.

 

 

Skimmed? Actually I'm not sure if its done previously.

Actually by doing so can the disc last for another year? Normal street riding.

Just to pop a question, how they actually move the brake caliper piston outwards to offset the thin disc?

[RageMyDream]

I feel 1 mm difference won't cause any harm or obstruction

[KeraKing]

$190 for a rear disc sound reasonable.

 

tho if u bike has main stand, u can easily change the rear disc..

 

but if its like $10-20 different, i suggest just ask the shop to do la.

[Aalex82]

LOL... shall check it out again!

 

 

 

Skimmed? Actually I'm not sure if its done previously.

Actually by doing so can the disc last for another year? Normal street riding.

Just to pop a question, how they actually move the brake caliper piston outwards to offset the thin disc?

 

the movement of brake piston is control by the brake lever that u depress and the metal piece(usually copper in colour) cum rotation of the brake rotor..

the piston is push towards the rotor when u depress the brake lever.

when u release the lever, the rotation action of rotor and the metal piece on the brake caliper.

[mild_slevin]

I feel 1 mm difference won't cause any harm or obstruction

 

LOL, my fren remind me of disc warpage if its thin... but not sure how long it take to reach tat stage. Since u be skimming it, plus the friction action of brake pad on the disc surface might be fast?

 

$190 for a rear disc sound reasonable.

 

tho if u bike has main stand, u can easily change the rear disc..

 

but if its like $10-20 different, i suggest just ask the shop to do la.

 

Haha, sadly after all the calculation the disc from UK way out of budget... over 200+ inclusive of shipping.

You got a point too, cause the need to re-align the wheel after the disc install.

 

the movement of brake piston is control by the brake lever that u depress and the metal piece(usually copper in colour) cum rotation of the brake rotor..

the piston is push towards the rotor when u depress the brake lever.

when u release the lever, the rotation action of rotor and the metal piece on the brake caliper.

 

Thanks, actually I'm asking if the disc is thin, there's a gap between disc and pad. So how we move the piston further out, so that we need not have to depress the brake lever that much to achieve braking effect.

[KeraKing]

at the disc it put min thread how many mm.

So u can go n measuse, see if gd idea to skim or not.

 

No need to adjust the piston,

juz adjust ur brake lever lah.

[ramen71]

Hi Mild_slevin,

Definitely buying from dealer save a lot of bucks,

agent quoted 180 for rear brake disc,bikeshop quoted 240.

bought from agent and ask bikeshop to replaced during regular bike servicing,

workmanship 10buck..

[yeukeong]

LOL... shall check it out again!

 

 

 

Skimmed? Actually I'm not sure if its done previously.

Actually by doing so can the disc last for another year? Normal street riding.

Just to pop a question, how they actually move the brake caliper piston outwards to offset the thin disc?

 

 

I DIY skimming my brake disc.

Tools needed

1. 4" Angle grinder

2. 4" Grinding Disc grade WA80 or any other grade for metal only.

Use to remove excess material.

3. 4" Sanding Disc grade 100 to smoothen the surface.

Safety equipment

1. Hand glove

2. Face Shield

3. Ear Plugs

4. Dust Mask

 

Normal street riding - Should be able to last another 50k km.

 

how they actually move the brake caliper piston outwards to offset the thin disc?

The most is 1 to 2mm thinned, there shouldn't b any problems 4 the pistons to move this extra distance.

[mild_slevin]

at the disc it put min thread how many mm.

So u can go n measuse, see if gd idea to skim or not.

 

No need to adjust the piston,

juz adjust ur brake lever lah.

 

Sadly I don't have a micrometer, else I can get the measurement. Yes, the min disc thickness is 4mm. Visually, need to trim less than 2mm on each side.

 

Hi Mild_slevin,

Definitely buying from dealer save a lot of bucks,

agent quoted 180 for rear brake disc,bikeshop quoted 240.

bought from agent and ask bikeshop to replaced during regular bike servicing,

workmanship 10buck..

 

Thanks for sharing, I have purchase mine and its up and running. Check with my mech about warp-page, he mentioned that rear brake disc more susceptible to warp-page. The front floating disc, its not a full disc like the rear there's gap for the disc to expand if the temperature rise hence reduce warp-page. The choice of pad also important, the statement given by mech was the same as Demon. To prolong the life of brake disc, use a semi-metallic brake pad its ample for street riding.

 

I DIY skimming my brake disc.

Tools needed

1. 4" Angle grinder

2. 4" Grinding Disc grade WA80 or any other grade for metal only.

Use to remove excess material.

3. 4" Sanding Disc grade 100 to smoothen the surface.

Safety equipment

1. Hand glove

2. Face Shield

3. Ear Plugs

4. Dust Mask

 

Normal street riding - Should be able to last another 50k km.

 

how they actually move the brake caliper piston outwards to offset the thin disc?

The most is 1 to 2mm thinned, there shouldn't b any problems 4 the pistons to move this extra distance.

 

mine ask how to ensure even surface throughout the grinding?

[Tachnicolour]

Thanks, actually I'm asking if the disc is thin, there's a gap between disc and pad. So how we move the piston further out, so that we need not have to depress the brake lever that much to achieve braking effect.

 

It doesn't matter, just top up the brake fluid. The pistons don't have anything holding them back. When you brake, the piston moves out and out and out until it hits the disc. Then when you release the brakes, the MC piston draws some fluid back so the piston will release. More often than not, the pad will still be lightly in contact with the disc.

 

Think of it like this, how come when your brake pads wear out already, you still need the same amount of lever pull to get the same braking effect. If you need more effort/brakes feel spongy, then diff story. haha.

 

Diff from cable-brakes though. Like those on smaller 2B bikes.

[mild_slevin]

It doesn't matter, just top up the brake fluid. The pistons don't have anything holding them back. When you brake, the piston moves out and out and out until it hits the disc. Then when you release the brakes, the MC piston draws some fluid back so the piston will release. More often than not, the pad will still be lightly in contact with the disc.

 

Think of it like this, how come when your brake pads wear out already, you still need the same amount of lever pull to get the same braking effect. If you need more effort/brakes feel spongy, then diff story. haha.

 

Diff from cable-brakes though. Like those on smaller 2B bikes.

 

Oh that's a nice description, thanks you have up my knowledge

Damn... those instrument panel back light are wonderful!

[kenn_mk84]

For brakes, kindly spend more money... SAFER...

[mild_slevin]

For brakes, kindly spend more money... SAFER...

 

Yes... regular inspection too.