BMW Motorcycles

[yem_paul]

how abt a riding trip to Vietnam - Hanoi??????

 

 

Hanoi? When when?

[paithorn]

Hanoi or Hiaz-no...

 

No thanks, bro, not on Mystic, not on the Duck, not on the Vespa, hopefully on the Tenere... kekeke...

 

No no no.......... not the Bee,er. Duck or Vespa.......

 

We will go by Airbus 320 then the Minsk then Airbus 320......

[paithorn]

Hanoi? When when?

 

Hi mate, I dun think a 1200cc bike can be ridden in....it is a fly , ride thingy..... I have not planned in concrete anydates and flexible... maybe the cooler months...

[XiaoMing]

http://www.johnvalkbmw.ca/heritage/BMW/80-Years/Images/Header.jpg

http://www.johnvalkbmw.ca/heritage/BMW/80-Years/80-Years.htm#Section%2017

[civicblade]

Can the boxer engine take 10W-30 engine oil? I'm planning to get some Chevron 10W-30 oil for the boxer R1100R. Only $6 for 950ml (1 quart). Looks like very good value to me. $24 for an oil change, I don't mind changing every 3000km.

[civicblade]

A thicker 20W-50 fully synthetic schaeffer 7000 supreme oil is another choice. it cost $10 a quart. Probably good for 5000-10000km oil change interval.

[yem_paul]

Hi mate, I dun think a 1200cc bike can be ridden in....it is a fly , ride thingy..... I have not planned in concrete anydates and flexible... maybe the cooler months...

 

paithorn I've read on some big CC bikes going into Vietnam... but a fly and ride sounds good too.

[peter-k]

Anyway, anyone knows why engine EAT engine oil?

 

This has to do with the air cooled engine. It needs a bit more tolerances, as parts like cylinder and pistons are exposed to more impact from environmental temperatures.

 

Water cooled engines allow for tighter tolerances, as they have their own temperature household. But even my (previous) DL1000 used a bit of oil when it was older. So older engines also tend to use more.

 

BMW prescribes 20W-50. This is better for tropical climate, and makes the engine consuming lesser oil. A 10W-30 is too thin, IMO. A side effect will be increased mechanical noise. 20W-50 muffles the more open parts of the air cooled engine better.

[paithorn]

Can the boxer engine take 10W-30 engine oil? I'm planning to get some Chevron 10W-30 oil for the boxer R1100R. Only $6 for 950ml (1 quart). Looks like very good value to me. $24 for an oil change, I don't mind changing every 3000km.

 

The recommended CASTROL ACTIF is also only $8 per litre from most bike shops.

[paithorn]

paithorn I've read on some big CC bikes going into Vietnam... but a fly and ride sounds good too.

 

yup, but they are probably illegal and have to bribe their way thru...

too much at stake as i dun think your RT getting impounded in Vietnam!!! haha....

 

I may make the trip anytime from Dec to Feb, maybe a 5 to 7 days trip, you keen?

[XiaoMing]

This has to do with the air cooled engine. It needs a bit more tolerances, as parts like cylinder and pistons are exposed to more impact from environmental temperatures.

 

Water cooled engines allow for tighter tolerances, as they have their own temperature household. But even my (previous) DL1000 used a bit of oil when it was older. So older engines also tend to use more.

 

BMW prescribes 20W-50. This is better for tropical climate, and makes the engine consuming lesser oil. A 10W-30 is too thin, IMO. A side effect will be increased mechanical noise. 20W-50 muffles the more open parts of the air cooled engine better.

 

Thanks...

 

Why older engine TEND TO USE MORE? Understand RX8, Rotary engine consumes about 1litre of engine every two month...

[XiaoMing]

I used to be very selective on EO... now, with a good mech, I don't care and can't be bothered what the the mech dump in, as long as it runs... smooth, quiet and a finely tuned carb, I am happy...

[Phang]

If I still remember correctly, “Wanker” rotary engine uses engine oil to lubricate and seal the rotor tips. It doesn’t have the oil ring as in the piston of a 4 stroke reciprocal engine to scrape oil. Very much similar to a 2 stoke engine burning 2T oil, total loss lubrication design for the rotor part.

[XiaoMing]

If I still remember correctly, “Wanker” rotary engine uses engine oil to lubricate and seal the rotor tips. It doesn’t have the oil ring as in the piston of a 4 stroke reciprocal engine to scrape oil. Very much similar to a 2 stoke engine burning 2T oil, total loss lubrication design for the rotor part.

 

wow, very good knowledge... thanks...

[Phang]

bro Xiao ming, I TCSS only, those info I posted here may not accurate…

[XiaoMing]

No problem, we share info mah... anyway, so can I presume that if boxer engine is eating EO, it may be due to piston rings worn?

[Phang]

I do not know the exact reason/s why a boxer engine consumes more engine oil than other types of engine, there are a lot of theories on this topic but as peter-k said, it is the character of a flat twin engine.

 

Compression test is a more accurate method to determine the health of the piston rings. A few drops of engine through the spark plug hole will tell whether it is a ring leakage or valve/head gasket leakage.

[peter-k]

Another reason (besides of the air cooling) is the cylinders point sideways, not up. It has the effect that at standstill always a tiny amount of oil will sip into the cylinder. If the engine is older this might get a bit more.

[civicblade]

I've done the throttle bodies synchronising. In a more accurate terms, it is the adjustment of the tension in the throttle cables to make sure that the left side butterfly pulley activates the right right butterfly pulley at the same time and almost the same opening according to the vacuum gauge displaying the amount of negative pressure that both cylinder are producing.

 

The brass air screws works to balance both throttle bodies at idle.

 

The brass air screw on the left throttle body is 2 turns out from lightly seated and the right brass air screw is all the way in. Engine idles at ~1250rpm consistently when warmed up.

 

Balance of both cylinders are good. Much much smoother compared to when I first picked up the bike.

 

With the smoother boxer engine, I can now appreciate why the BMW boxer twin can retain die-hard fans.

 

i'm beginning to like the bike more and more.

 

Plus Points:

1) Generous torque

2) Smooth smooth engine at cruising speeds with rpm 4k and below

3) Almost Maintenance-free and non-replacement shaft drive

4) Excellent brakes

5) Low weight distribution = very stable ride + good handling

6) Superbly corrosion resistant stainless steel exhaust system

7) Classic look that never goes away in style with time

8) Anti-dive front suspension system

9) Neutral handling and good line holding in a turn

10) Just nice weight, size, seat height and posture for my build (subjective as I am more than a local XL size)

11) Age defying - 12 yrs old and runs like a dream

 

Minus (subjective)

1) Narrow powerband (not really an issue with the generous torque)

2) Not as quick to turn in to a corner (very subjective as I come from riding sportsbike and smaller road bikes)

3) A big hassle to replace the clutch system

Can't really think of anything else now..

 

Definitely a bike to keep for a long time to come

[coolcat]

2) Smooth smooth engine at cruising speeds with rpm 4k and below

 

My bike hates 90 km/h. At that speed; it is in two minds whether to go 5th or 6th gear.

 

2) Not as quick to turn in to a corner (very subjective as I come from riding sportsbike and smaller road bikes)

 

Try swapping your rear strut for that of a R1100GS. It will shorten the wheelbase, raise the riding height and generally quicken the turning of the bike, at the price of a reduction in high speed stability. Ok if you are not a top speed man.

 

Cheers

 

Cat

[lightspeed]

after ride yesterday, go and check only rear disk heat up, front still cold altough all the time only using hand braking. is this normal?

[civicblade]

Hi Lightspeed,

 

My R1100R rear disk heats up too. Even when I deliberately keep off the rear brakes for a good 1km or so and only uses the front brakes and engine brake to for slowing down.

 

The entire gear housing for the rear shaft heats up. It might be heat from the shaft being conducted to the brakes or the reverse way or both heating up.

 

I've just serviced my rear brakes and I am confident that there is minimum brake drag when the rear brakes are not activated.

[civicblade]

Hi Coolcat,

 

Mine does not have the overdrive 6th gear and I believe at 90km at 5th, it is about 3.5-6k rpm. 4.1k rpm equals to 110km/h on the speedometer. I kind of feel that my speedometer is exaggerating the speed as 110km/h on my bike feels slow. If the speedo is true, then the bike must have good stability at this kind of speed to give me the slow impression.

 

I'm a stock rider. Prefer to keep equipment in stock condition as I believe that each bike was designed to perform in its own way and I intend to experience what the bike designers have intended.

 

Anyway those were just feedback on the R1100R, not complains. Human beings are very versatile creatures with great ability to learn and adapt. The fun about riding and experiencing different bikes is about learning to appreciate the difference in machine design and performance.

[Phang]

R1150R has partially integrated brakes. Squeezing front brake level, the brake servo will activate front and rear wheel braking circuits. Step on rear brake pedal only active the rear wheel circuit:cool:

[yem_paul]

yup, but they are probably illegal and have to bribe their way thru...

too much at stake as i dun think your RT getting impounded in Vietnam!!! haha....

 

I may make the trip anytime from Dec to Feb, maybe a 5 to 7 days trip, you keen?

 

Bro, Will let you know.