<Info> Silverwing 400cc / 600cc Tech Corner

[scoobydoo]

Wonder how to differentiate between the 400 and 600 from the outlook . Thanks

look wise, they probably are identical except that 600 here are either JDM600 (older models) or GT600 (newer ones).

JDM600 has the T-Mode, regular BS agent bikes FJS400 (euro models) don't but note that JDM400 also has T-Mode.

GT600's front signal light's crystal cover are amber in colour, regular BS agent bikes SWT400 (euro models) are transparent/clear.

check these out

* The Honda Silver Wing Scooter (Part 1)

* The Honda Silver Wing Scooter (Part 2)

 

Hi, can anyone advise where i can the workshop manual for sw400.like to get some figure for the valves.mayb time to check clearance liao

service manual gotta buy one leh... or if you know someone that has bought a copy and don't mind sharing with you

[pazen]

Hi All,

 

I got some minor chips of due to rocks hitting the paint work, anyone knoes whats the paint color code(metallic grey)? I know car owners purchase those paint markets with color codes that match exactly to the original paint.

[pazen]

Hi All,

 

I got some minor chips of due to rocks hitting the paint work, anyone knoes whats the paint color code(metallic grey)? I know car owners purchase those paint markets with color codes that match exactly to the original paint.

[SW9000]

colour label can be found under the seat (storage compartment wall) towards the front.

 

Hi All,

 

I got some minor chips of due to rocks hitting the paint work, anyone knoes whats the paint color code(metallic grey)? I know car owners purchase those paint markets with color codes that match exactly to the original paint.

[BigDogs]

Hey guys, curious, I understand that Swing has a few legal after market exhaust like the 4 road and arrow. I'm wondering what about the SW-T, are there any exhausts available for them? 2012 model

[nelg wehc]

First 10 Enhancements ... basic stuffs

 

 

 

another popular add-on is a voltmeter

Any shops to recommend that's able to do e above recommended bro??

[Darky_80]

I don't like the idea of riding without a camera and previously was using gopro mounted on handlebar and helmet but they have their limitation. Short battery life, Require user to turn on and off(no automation), mounted on helmet looking like teletubbies and its heavy/bad aerodynamic, risk of theft if you forget to remove from your bike.

 

So I bought a dual channel car DVR camera with waterproof lens and decided to install it today.

There is a 12V ciggy socket in the left tupperware which i could use but it is wired to be on regardless if your ignition is on/off which runs the risk of depleting your battery if your forgot to remove whatever you are charging. I could rewire the 12V ciggy socket but I have to remove the front cowling.

 

I choose to leave the 12v ciggy alone and install a 12V dual port USB charger in the left glove compartment. Wired to ignition, it will power my DVR camera and other devices when bike is powered on and will stop charging when bike is powered off.

 

 

First. Remove the two phillip screws above the headlight and 2 phillip screw at both ends of the dashboard. Gently nudge and remove the cover about the headlight.

 

 

I am going to install the camera and charging port in the left glove compartment. There is a default cable opening at the bottom right. yeaa, no drilling needed for the power supply cable. However to route the camera feed cable through i would have to drill a small hole at the top right corner.

 

Once the camera feed cable opening is done you can proceed to remove the cable and routed it through this vents and back into the back of the left glove compartment.

 

 

After routing the power supply cable from the back of the glove compartment to above the headlight covers. I then splice the cables and remember. Red- to hot live. Black+ to cool ground. Also added a inline 10amp fuse.

[Darky_80]

Adjust the length of cable needed from the glove compartment and tie down all the loose wire at the front.

 

Camera feed cable is extremely long(This was meant for car) so i had to tie it up at the bottom of the glove compartment.

 

Remember to do a pre ride test to ensure all is running fine.Will probably fabricate some sort of mini acrylic shelf so the cables etc are at the bottom and I can place my phone on the upper level.

 

This is how it looks. Rather obscure. Please pardon my dirty bike. hehe

 

This camera runs dual channel which means I can install a rear camera but I will leave that for another day when i am free.

[scoobydoo]

Rear Shocks Cover/Protector (DIY)

 

Have you ever asked this same question as our kaki below?

Hi, anyone here using suspension covers/socks? Ever saw someone using it but did not get a chance to chat with the rider. Want to cover up my hagon.

 

While there are commercially available covers for our rear shocks (e.g. from amazon, ebay, etc), a simple DIY would be suffice

Commercially available types...

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/C4_zpsmckgbszo.jpg

 

A very easy DIY that could cost as little as 8 bucks... well, that depends on how much you pay for the cover

What you need:

+ A pair of car seat belt cushion ... easily available online or at car accessory shops

+ Penknife/cutter to fully open up the cushion cover

+ Long cable ties ... colour depends on the color of your cover

 

Step 1: Select the Cover

IMO, it's better to choose covers with some rubbery (some calls it plastiky) surface as these materials help to repel some water and prevents the cover from becoming soaking wet.

E.g. "carbon fiber" type PU covers would be a good pick.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/C1_zps1exavk00.jpg

 

Step 2: Prepare the Cover

Most, if not all the covers will come with a section at the side being sewed in... need to open it up so that the cover would be wide enough to fully wrap round our SW's rear shock.

This is where the penknife/cutter comes in.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/C2_zpsqyurkats.jpg

 

Step 3: Mount/Secure the Cover

Although the seat belt covers come with velcro fastener, they may not be strong enough to hold the covers when bike travels in high speed, under rain-n-shine, and over long periods of time.

Good news is, cable ties are easily available and inexpensive.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/C3_zpsujj30d3c.jpg

 

Step 4: Whola!!!

My current pair is made of normal fabric, can't complain cos I picked them up at Autobacs for about $6+, old stock clearance.

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/DSC_0713_zpsvsw3akdn.jpg

 

 

Have fun

[scoobydoo]

Electric Horns

Among the first few things that I would strongly recommend an upgrade is ... a pair of LOUD HORNS

 

While some motorists/riders do not like to use the horn because many considered it as an act of aggression and impolite... our culture?

Personally, I see it the other way round and I do use my horn liberally to stay safe.

Having said that, the manners in which we "blow" the horns also determine our communication.

 

Consider these 3 commonly heard patterns ... with my interpretations

 

* 1 or 2 short split-sec blasts = "horn" or "horn horn" = Hi there, I'm coming/passing by behind you, watch out ya

 

* Many short blasts (e.g. >6) = "horn horn horn horn horn horn horn" = Ooi!!! Watch it, I'm here!!!

 

* Long prolonged blasts = "horrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrn" = WTF ...

 

 

"If driver/rider can't see me, please hear me"

... using the first 2 patterns have saved my ass many times

 

It is a fact that many drivers don't check their blind spots while filtering lane, either bad habits or they can't be bothered since their insurance could help indemnify their loss.

There're also many riders doing the same and if you take notice, many J-plated bikes has no or only 1 side mirror, or having side mirrors so small or out of position for a proper check of blind spots (for show only), and they zoom around like motoGP

 

Note:

Air horns (pneumatic horns) are usually much louder than electromagnetic horns, but it is included in LTA's list of "modifications that are not allowed".

http://www.lta.gov.sg/content/ltaweb/en/roads-and-motoring/modifying-your-vehicle.html

If you wanna fit/use it, probably "ok" for first few years of a new bike since it doesn't need to undergo annual inspections, else need to temp replace it for the purpose of passing inspection (put back after inspection).

Some riders claim their workshop could help them pass the inspection without having to replace the air horns, but I haven't come across one yet.

 

 

Common Types of Horns on Bikes

* Electro-magnetic Horn (most common)

 

A typical horn is composed of a magnetic coil, an armature with a metal diaphragm, a pair of electrical contacts, and a switch. When the driver activates the switch, the closed electric contact allows a current to flow through the coil generating a magnetic force that attracts the armature, as well as the metal diaphragm. This action breaks the electric contact, cutting off the current and releasing the armature and diaphragm. When they move back to their initial positions, the electrical contact is re-made and the cycle repeats. The rapid repetition of this process generates an oscillation of the diaphragm and creates the horn’s sound.

 

 

In general, there are two types of horn shapes: plate and spiral.

* Plate: The plate type is smaller and lighter. It is also more easily installed on a car.

* Spiral: The spiral type employs a spiral duct to obtain a richer sound.

Most horns assemblies have two horns (low and high notes) and achieve sound levels of approximately 107-109 decibels.

 

 

The frequency of the horn is usually related to the size of the vehicle. Bigger vehicles generally have lower frequency horns, while smaller vehicles have higher frequency horns. The sound for luxury cars is often "smooth" compared to economy cars with less refined tones. Many countries mandate a car's specific horn frequency.

 

http://www.cvel.clemson.edu/auto/actuators/images/horn_diagram.png

 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41kYhsotGQL._SX355_.jpg... Disc type: commonly provided as factory/stock item

 

http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/stores/automotive/detail-page/B0030YWM0Y-Supertone-profile._V180037486_.jpg... Disc type: e.g. Hella Supertone (twin tone)

... Snail type: E.g. Stebel Magnum 2 (twin tone)

 

 

* Electro-pneumatic / Compressed Air Horn (not approved by LTA)

 

An electropneumatic/compressed air horn is composed of an electric compressor unit for generating compressed air and a sound wave generator which comprise of an acoustic chamber and acoustic duct to propagate the produced sound to the outside. In the acoustic chamber is the membrane that moves/vibrates with a reciprocating motion to create the sound waves. The acoustic duct consist of a straight exponential duct of a length proportional to the frequency to be reproduced, inserted into the acoustic chamber to channel the sound waves to the exterior of the horn. Some electro-pneumatic horns are designed with more than 1 duct length to produce the twin tone effect.

 

One of the most popular commonly used is the Stebel Nautilus series...

 

http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy135/uniquemotor3/StebelNautilusSeries.jpg

 

 

Now that we know the various types of horns available for our SW, next question is...

where to mount the horns?

 

Common place 1 = inside the head cowl

... assume using a pair of electromagnetic twin tone horns (2 pieces)

Pro... plenty of space to house the 2 horn bodies

Con... horn's output volume is somewhat muffled by the head cowl

 

Common place 2 = on the steering stem assembly

... assume using a pair of electromagnetic twin tone horns (2 pieces)

... requires a bracket: horns mount onto bracket, bracket mounted to the center of stem assembly; there's an unused screw hole available (see pic below).

Pro... horns are more exposed thus less obstruction to sound wave propagation, probably louder result

Con... subject to more dirt and weather since it is more exposed, faster wear and tear

http://cdn1.bikebandit-images.com/schematics/schematics/honda/hon008/hj550047.gif

 

 

Have fun being "Horny"

Edited August 21, 2015 by scoobydoo

[pazen]

Hi All, i notice multiple "cracks" on my 3 mth old silverwing 400 engine. Its the area around the main stand bolts, any one has the same issues? And anyone knows if this is normal? Thanks for the help.

[Simonfwm]

What's the normal temp for silverwing? My 04 silverwing always maintain at 3 bar...and my time keep resetting to 1 am everytime I start the bike?

[SW9000]

Please ask at the Silverwing Cafe.

[scoobydoo]

Replacing Key Set of Givi Box

 

What would you do if you lose the key to your Givi top-box?

Ya, sure, there's till the spare key but that's the last "straw" you have, loose it and you'll have to pry open the box.

Better to do something before it's too late right?

 

If money is no concern (not for most of us), you can always change the whole box, especially if the box is due for replacement.

If not, then the good news is... Givi does sell replacement lock set for many of their top boxes.

 

E.g. Givi Z661 lock set comes with lock cylinder, sleeve/barrel, c-clip and 2 keys.

http://www.hard-motorcycle-luggage.co.uk/acatalog/z661_givi_single_lock.jpg

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/NRgAAOxySy9SSv2x/$(KGrHqV,!nsFItgWfmfBBSSv2)YI7g~~60_1.JPG?set_id=8800005007

 

And if you want extra keys, can order the Z661G.

 

http://mykeyport.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/z/6/z661g.jpg

 

1-key, 3 Boxes?

If you have 3 Givi boxes and would like to use the same key for access to all 3 boxes, seems Givi Z228 (3 cylinder) option may suit your needs.

E.g. Z228 3-Case Lock Set With 6 Matched Keys

Givi Z228 - Replacement Locks & Keys

3 lock set - Includes 6 keys

 

Fed up of having different keys for your panniers and top box? The Z228 kit allows you to change the barrels on the boxes and have one key that will open all the boxes.

 

Suitable for use on

E41N, E21, E470, E470, E450, B37 Blade, E370,

E340, E300N, E300NT, E300B, E30 Tour, E280,

E260, E350, E38, E35, E34, E28 and E36

 

PLEASE NOTE

These are NOT suitable for use on the newer boxes with the security locks

http://www.ojmoto.it/images/Z228_380_watermark.png

 

 

Where to buy the Givi replacement key set?

For example, Z661 that's used for E52 Maxia...

 

* Givi dealers?

I've SMS to Mah to enquire on the Z661 but so far no reply.

I've called Chiap Lee and they don't carry.

 

* Lim Ah Boy

Read from forums that LAB does sell the replacement key set, for around $12 (less that $20).

 

* eBay ... search "Givi Z661" or the Givi part number/code you need.

 

* Twisted Throttle

Z661 = US$9.90 before shipping

Z228 = US$28.80 before shipping

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/givi-1-case-lock-set-with-2-matched-keys-for-givi-v46-e52-e55-topcases-only-z661

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/givi-3-case-lock-set-with-6-matched-keys-z228

 

* Competition Assessories

Z661 = US$9.99 before shipping

http://www.compacc.com/p/givi-security-lock-sets-and-replacement-key-sets

 

Information and Details about the Givi Security Lock Sets And Replacement Key Sets

made by Givi

 

If you have bought a selection of Givi Monokey hard luggage for your bike and are now finding yourself annoyed at having to use 3 different sets of keys then remember that you can always swap out the lock and barrel for replacement key sets with the same key code.

If you purchase a GIVI top case and a pair of GIVI side cases Cases you may prefer to have just one key to open all cases, rather than have a key for each case.

So if you’re fed up carrying more keys than you need to, have lost your own key/s or perhaps need to replace a barrel and key set due to attempted theft then fear not – they are replaceable.

 

What are the catches?

The catch is that the Givi V35 Panniers, V46 Panniers, E52 Topcase and the E55 Topcase take a different barrel and key set. So if you have a mixture of these named luggage cases and anything else in the Monokey range you will be stuck with separate keys still.

 

The available key sets are as follows…

 

(3 Digits) Key Sets Suitable - E280-E29-E30-E350-E42-E450-E26-E27-E28-E33-E36-E38-E40-E45E-E45

Z156 - Set complete with, 1 lock cylinders, 1 sleeves, 1 c-clips and 2 Matching keys

Z179 - Set complete with, 2 lock cylinders, 2 sleeves, 2 c-clips and 4 Matching keys

Z180 - Set complete with, 3 lock cylinders, 3 sleeves, 3 c-clips and 6 Matching keys

 

(4 Digits) Key Sets Suitable for cases E360, E460, E50, E21, E30, E450

Z140R - Set complete with, 1 lock cylinders, 1 sleeves, 1 c-clips and 2 Matching keys

 

(4 Digits) Key Sets Suitable for cases E21, E260, E35, E360, E41, E460, E50

Z227 - Set complete with, 2 lock cylinders, 2 sleeves, 2 c-clips and 4 Matching keys

Z228 - Set complete with, 3 lock cylinders, 3 sleeves, 3 c-clips and 6 Matching keys

Z1382 - Set complete with, 5 lock cylinders, 5 sleeves, 5 c-clips and 10 Matching keys

 

Suitable for V35, V46, E52, E55.

Z661 - Set complete with, 1 lock cylinders, 1sleeves, 1 c-clips and 2 Matching keys

Z661G - Key for case lock (Thickness 2.5mm) Key Only

 

Now if you are looking for a stronger, more secure lock set from Givi, simply swap out your old lockset for these new ones and job done, no more broken keys and chances are no more lost keys as the keys are physically bigger, this kit is ideal for panniers or if you have 2 cases as you will have 2 numbered identical keys

It's very simple to equip your top box with an advanced anti-theft system. Hardened steel cylinder, larger number of discs in the cylinder and keys made of 3mm thick steel give far greater security compared to standard locks.

 

Includes bush, plate and spare key

 

Suitable for the following cases only: Trekker cases, V35 Panniers, V47, V46, E470, E450, E370, E340, B47, B37 and B33's only.

 

Black Security Keys....

SL101 - Includes bush, plate and spare key for one case

SL102 - This kit is ideal for panniers or if you have 2 cases as you will have 2 numbered identical keys

SL103 - This kit is ideal for a 3 box system as you will have 3 numbered identical keys

 

How to replace the lock set?

Now that you've purchased your replacement key set, next step is to replace the old/unwanted lock set with the new one.

Check this very useful post... based on E52 Maxia

http://www.instructables.com/id/Replace-the-lock-on-Givi-E55-Maxia-3-Motorcycle-Lu/?ALLSTEPS

 

 

Cheers

Edited September 9, 2015 by scoobydoo

[SW9000]

It is almost a standard observation that Silverwing suffers from a slow speed wobble at the handle bar near 50km/h.

 

There are many factors involved... tire balance, wheel alignment and worn out wheel bearings, etc.

 

The easiest way to minimise (not totally remove) the wobble is to adjust the tightness of the Steering Cone. *You need to remove the front Y cover and the front shield to access the lock nut for the Steering Cone.

 

Watch the video. https://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1401175502815

 

After the adjustment, the handle bar if allowed to freely rotate left or right, should not bounce off at the end of its range of movement.

[scoobydoo]

Utility Hook for Silver Wing

There're lots of places where we could hand our light-weight purchases (e.g. chicken rice, wanton noodles, etc) and didn't want to put them into the top box or under-seat compartment for some reasons or other. Imagine putting on your helmet and it smells like you've got a packet of chicken rice on your head... yucks

 

Some people hand those on the handlebar, some put on pillion seat (tied to pillion hand rail) but some of us have installed a(some) utility hook(s) for that purposes.

These hook(s) were originally "meant" for hanging helmets but what is there to stop us from handing other things?

Actually yes, weight limitations... mainly due to hook's strength and the lack of strong point on the Silver Wing to mount the hook.

 

Examples of metal hooks...

 

http://www.classicalwheels.com/classicscooterparts/V8086.jpg

http://www.dhresource.com/albu_917356235_00-1.0x0/wildfire-motorcycles-modified-small-aluminum.jpg

 

 

Examples of plastic hooks...

note: collapsible designs are good to prevent accidentally "kicking" and obstructions to our movements

http://www.scooterwest.com/file/000/000/000/065/76/LARGE_vespa_12_bag_hook_575819.jpg?1288115657

 

 

So where we normally mount the hooks?

Here's some ideas...

 

On the FJS/JDM ... centre on top of top cover (there're 2 screws), e.g. using a RAM ball for mounting GPS/Phone holder, strong enough as hook too

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/RAMcentre.jpg

 

On BOTH FJS/JDM and SWT/GT ... side/left handlebar using the 2 screws holding the left brake reservoir assembly, e.g. using a RAM ball for mounting GPS/Phone holder, strong enough as hook too

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/RAMside2.jpg

 

On the FJS/JDM ... centre of front cover, on flat surface between ignition and fuel cap

ps: Courtesy of Sensible

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=64957&d=1212914385

 

On the SWT/GT ... centre of front cover, on flat surface below ignition

ps: courtesy of MaIkEr

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/20/ydybu3e7.jpg

 

 

Reminder:

These hooks and mounting spots are not meant for hanging heavy items... think of where they're mounted

Edited February 10, 2016 by scoobydoo

[scoobydoo]

Front Brake Caliper "Tock" Sound

 

Observed Symptom:

When I apply the front brakes for the first time in the morning, I hear a distinct "tock" metallic sound coming from the front.

At first, I thought it's an one-off occurrence but this same "tock" sound appears at every "first brake", regardless of morning or afternoon.

This means something is not right and so I went to the mechs for help.

 

Cause:

When I describe the symptom to Clifford (K&T), he says it's not a big issue, quite common and he has seen many bikes having it.

According to him, the sound is caused by the piston(s)/pads inside the assembly suddenly returning to their "natural" positions when we apply the front brake.

After the brakes are released during the last use, the piston(s) inside somehow got stuck (due to dirt or wear-n-tear) and didn't return to their positions (along with the brake pads).

So when we next apply the front brake, piston(s)/pads returns to position after getting pushed by hydraulics.

 

Servicing Options:

(a) Cleaning:

Basically to strip, clean, sand down any roughened surfaces, put back and replace oil

... labor and oil charges apply

According to Clifford, sound will go off after cleaning/servicing but may likely come back shortly if the pistons and/or o-rings are worn.

 

(b) Change the Parts

... around $175 including labor (depends on workshop, or whether got kaki price)

 

I chose option (b) cos kiasi and didn't want to return within short period for the same issue.

Was also thinking "can lah", this is my first changing these parts after riding my beloved SW for coming 9 years.

Pocket damage: $175 (3x pistons $90, 3 sets o-rings $45, labor/service caliper/oil $40)

 

Parts changed:

1x Piston A (22x27) 45107-MAJ-G41

2x Piston B (27x35) 45218-MAJ-G41

2x Piston Seal Set 06431-MA3-405 ...

1x Piston Seal Set 06451-MZ2-405 ...

http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces-honda-detail-22632-13MEF801-FJS400D9-2009-F__1501-SILVER+WING+400.html

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/IMG-20160803-WA0003_zpsk4ozco2s.jpg

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/Front%20Brake%20Caliper_zpsvkmdiyin.jpg

 

http://i692.photobucket.com/albums/vv287/josephsbs/Silverwing/IMG-20160803-WA0002_zps8ivxq2tt.jpg

[Cosmic_Jumper]

FJS / SWT are fitted with standard "load-based" electro-mechanical flasher relay that is used with BAU15S signal bulbs. When changing the signal bulbs to LED, it will cause the LED to blink faster than the standard 1 flash/sec rate. It's needed to convert the flasher relay to the electronic / solid state type. The relay is sourced by @MaIkEr

 

For FJS, the orginal relay is mounted on the instrument cluster. SWT uses standard DOT connectors and are located somewhere inside the front crowling. @MaIkEr will know and update Below steps are for FJS.

 

This is great and helpful information. I have three questions: 1) Will changing to an electronic / solid state flasher relay work if only the rear turn signal bulbs are changed to LEDs while the front bulbs remain standard? 2)Will adding this electronic flasher relay still allow the turn signal indicators on the dashboard to operate? 3) Which manufacturer makes this solid state relay and what is the stock number for the relay.

 

Thank you for your response.

 

Tim

[MaIkEr]

the electronic solid state relay will work with ANY combination of LED vs incandescent bulbs because it only takes a minute current to activate. the convention relay being mechanical, requires more current and Might not work with LEDs. I am currently running both bulbs combination with the LED relay on my ride.

so answer to Q1&Q2 is yes.

Q3: eBay has them, 2-Pin 12V Electronic LED Flasher . PM me if u need them in a rush. I have a spare set available for $10 with a 100% refund if you are not satisfied with it.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[Cosmic_Jumper]

Thank you for your reply. After a bit of research I have been able to locate two different versions of solid state relays which can be used for this modification. Now it's just "simple" a matter of removing the front body to have at the Combination Meter wire harness plugs.

 

Thanks again for your wisdom

 

Tim

Edited January 31, 2017 by Cosmic_Jumper

[jj88]

why so difficult just made another spare fr any key maker at $2-3;when losing the very first one ok.

[Cosmic_Jumper]

I've been testing various combinations of Dr Pulley sliding weights (SR). I've finally got a couple of good combinations which give very good/excellent mid-range performance without sacrificing top speed, however, after cruising a few minutes in the 5000 - 6000 rpm range the "V" light comes ON. (Because the rpms are higher and in the power band much sooner, the ECM and/or Combination Meter circuits "see" the increased rpm at speed as the belt slipping)

 

So my question is: does anyone know how to hack the Combination Meter circuit or the ECM to make the "V" light circuit less sensitive to the increased rpm vs speed?

 

Thanks for your reply

 

Tim

Edited May 16, 2017 by Cosmic_Jumper

[patriots]

Hi,

 

Is it true the SW is totally ceased production or Honda may be planning a face-lift SW in the coming months or years ? Is there any news on this ? Thanks.

[joey_sfb]

Hi,

 

Is it true the SW is totally ceased production or Honda may be planning a face-lift SW in the coming months or years ? Is there any news on this ? Thanks.

 

Even Boon Siew couldn't get a confirmation of a replacement model from Honda Japan that what I have been told the last time I ask around Mar this year.

 

May want to consider the Suzuki Burgman 400/650cc

 

https://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/225902-SBF-Suzuki-Burgmans-Cafe-2014-2015/page37

[patriots]

Even Boon Siew couldn't get a confirmation of a replacement model from Honda Japan that what I have been told the last time I ask around Mar this year.

 

May want to consider the Suzuki Burgman 400/650cc

 

https://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/225902-SBF-Suzuki-Burgmans-Cafe-2014-2015/page37

Thanks. I found and purchase the last SW in Singapore, which is at Ban Hon Brothers after asking closed to 10 shops.

 

The dual overhead cam engine fromSW can never be replicated. Which is why i still stick to SW.