2 new Yuasa battery die within 4 days

[Dafanshu]

a good lesson for us to learn.

[299]

You mentioned that the bike runs fine on your old battery. This means your charging system is probably not the issue. But you could easily just do a charging voltage and current test. I think you've done the charging voltage test and it went from 12+V to 14+V so it looks like voltage is fine. But you need to check charging current also, for that you'll need an inductive DC ammeter clamped to the -ve battery cable.

Can I use a multimeter to check the charging current?

 

Can't. It'll blow the 10A fuse in the multimeter. Bike current can go as high as 30A.

 

 

Don't agreed with you. In fact, a common misconception is that larger voltages are more dangerous than smaller ones. However, this is not quite true. The danger to living things comes not from the potential difference, but rather the current flowing between two points. The reason that people may believe this can be explained by the equation V = IR. Since V is directly proportional to I, an increase in voltage can mean an increase in current, if resistance ® is kept constant.

 

The amount of damage done by the electric shock depends not only on the magnitude of the current, but it also on which portions of the body that the electric current is flowing through. The reason for this is that different parts of the body have difference resistances, which can lead to an increase in current, evidenced by the formula V = IR.

 

An interesting fact to note is that it takes less alternating current (AC) to do the same damage as direct current (DC). AC will cause muscles to contract, and if the current were high enough, one would not be able to let go of whatever is causing the current coursing through the body. The cut-off value for this is known as the "let-go current". For women, it is typically 5 to 7 milliamperes, and for men, typically 7 to 9 milliamperes. This is dependent on the muscle mass of the individual.

 

In general, current that is fatal to humans ranges from 0.06 A to 0.07 A, depending on the person and the type of current. If you do mention bikes overcharging can reach out of more than 30 A, does it mean all bikers out there are bound to get electrocuted or should i simply put in " Sao Zhu"?

[MiddleAgedBiker]

Don't agreed with you. In fact, a common misconception is that larger voltages are more dangerous than smaller ones. However, this is not quite true. The danger to living things comes not from the potential difference, but rather the current flowing between two points. The reason that people may believe this can be explained by the equation V = IR. Since V is directly proportional to I, an increase in voltage can mean an increase in current, if resistance ® is kept constant.

 

The amount of damage done by the electric shock depends not only on the magnitude of the current, but it also on which portions of the body that the electric current is flowing through. The reason for this is that different parts of the body have difference resistances, which can lead to an increase in current, evidenced by the formula V = IR.

 

An interesting fact to note is that it takes less alternating current (AC) to do the same damage as direct current (DC). AC will cause muscles to contract, and if the current were high enough, one would not be able to let go of whatever is causing the current coursing through the body. The cut-off value for this is known as the "let-go current". For women, it is typically 5 to 7 milliamperes, and for men, typically 7 to 9 milliamperes. This is dependent on the muscle mass of the individual.

 

In general, current that is fatal to humans ranges from 0.06 A to 0.07 A, depending on the person and the type of current. If you do mention bikes overcharging can reach out of more than 30 A, does it mean all bikers out there are bound to get electrocuted or should i simply put in " Sao Zhu"?

 

I'm not getting you.

 

All I said was, if you pass a 30A current through a 10A fuse, you'll blow the fuse. Most fuses that come in multimeters are rated at 10A. So I don't understand what that has to do with anything you said?

[Phang]

I also catch no ball

[kinwei]

It might have been an "old" new battery been on the shelves for too long. Factory activated battery have a shorter shelves life. My company ordered a few rather fresh pre-activated Yuasa battery and it died after 1yr plus of storing in the warehouse. So I always buy those manual activated type of battery.

[299]

I'm not getting you.

 

All I said was, if you pass a 30A current through a 10A fuse, you'll blow the fuse. Most fuses that come in multimeters are rated at 10A. So I don't understand what that has to do with anything you said?

 

Anyway, i am just proving to you muiltmeter can test a bike overcharging. I think you earlier reply is misleading, that's all.

[spikes89]

In australia, my r1 had a brand new yuasa battery on the day i collected it, rode 20 mins around the block, stopped for a cup of coffee, and it died.. yamaha replaced new yuasa battery for me. next day in the morning, cannot start, guy said i might have left the light/fan/turbo charger on, but nonetheless, he replaced a new one for me. 2 days later outside my school, cannot start, guy said i left my cooler fan on (in a 2 degree winter day). told him to stop giving me yuasa batteries and he gave me a volta one, and voila! 4 months of riding and still going!

[iknowuwanthislah]

so what is the correct size of the vfr from the manufacturer? im riding vfr oso.

 

i just bought a viffer batt form LAB.(the lady checked the yuasa manual with the correspnding bike. she showed me the manual, its TTZ12S)

came back and realise is different from the pre-exisiting batt in the bike. (the pre-existing batt is the same as wat none has, Yuasa YTZ14S)

however, its the same size and fits nicely, i plugged it into my viffer, and it works.

 

why do we need the extra 2A ? and side effects ?

Edited July 27, 2011 by iknowuwanthislah

[none]

Manual specifics YTZ/TTZ12S, but because YTZ/TTZ14S has the same size as 12, you can use anyone.

Furthermore 14 is almost the same price as 12, might as well buy 14 right?

[iknowuwanthislah]

yea, i agree.

but would the extra 2A cause any effects in the electrical system? spoil in the long term?

 

i mean, perhaps, the honda engg did specify 12A, not 14A, for a reason?

[naim]

its Ah, not A... amps/hour.. its the capacity.. doesnt really matter...

[Phang]

repeated post

[Phang]

yea, i agree.

but would the extra 2A cause any effects in the electrical system? spoil in the long term?

 

i mean, perhaps, the honda engg did specify 12A, not 14A, for a reason?

 

In my opinion, the main deciding factor is the battery compartment size, following by cost

[keown]

if the battery cannot be charge from any charger, then it is battery fault. had my experience before.

i stop buying those gel type(DRY) long long time already, never know how long the shop kept the batt before sell to us, prefer those acid-pour-infront-type battery(WET)

[kinwei]

A bigger capacity battery than the usual just means a long time to charge full by the bike charging system. No big deal as long it is not seriously oversized. One level up (12->14) is okay.

[daza87]

I haven't had that problem with my yuasa battery, it's been working fine for over a year now.