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nice informative post. i just did mine but i used the linear LCD polarizer from a calculator. so i guess my film wont stick for long cause i didnt use any adhesive glue to stick it.

 

time take was 1 hour or so with the help of 2 friends.

$$ spent was $8.

$2 calculator

$2 penknife from daiso.

$4 zippo which was supposed to remove the adhesive residue left behind by the old polarizer but it didnt really work well.

 

good luck to those diy-ing this. just be careful to screw back every nut u took out cause i forgotten to screw back one. lol.

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  • 4 weeks later...

bro, could anyone advise which type of adhensive glue should I use?

1994 DEC TO 1998 SEP HONDA CUB 90

1998 SEP TO 1999 AUG SUZUKI RGV 120

2004 JUN TO 2006 JAN APRILIA RS125 REPLICA

2006 JAN TILL NOW HONDA SUPERFOUR SPECII

DREAM BIKE - YAMAHA YZF R1

PASSION FOR BIKE WILL NV END...

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Thanks, Tachnicolour for the reply.

 

I manage to use Daiso $2 calculator to repair my LCD screen on my Spec 2 speedometer.

 

Took a while but the effort was worth it.

 

Cheer!

1994 DEC TO 1998 SEP HONDA CUB 90

1998 SEP TO 1999 AUG SUZUKI RGV 120

2004 JUN TO 2006 JAN APRILIA RS125 REPLICA

2006 JAN TILL NOW HONDA SUPERFOUR SPECII

DREAM BIKE - YAMAHA YZF R1

PASSION FOR BIKE WILL NV END...

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thanks for sharing. good information

Current Ride:

W650 Cafe Racer

FXSTC Softail Custom

TW200 Tracker

Zephyr ZII Custom

CB750K

CB400four

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n166/sgstreetbiker/IMG_0627_zps0816850b.jpg

 

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n166/sgstreetbiker/EBC0B2D1-5DB8-412B-BE85-D4E7DE4F0247-9859-000001DA1BB41B2E.jpg

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

wanna say Thank you! to the threadstarter for sharing such great tips. =D :angel:

 

just DIY-ed my spec 2 last night. was a bit tough cos i cant remove the gauge needles to access the LCD below the gauges. before and after images below

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l251/tanjianhua/DSC_0234E.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Guys, me and my friend did the same thing.. It works well.. But the contrast isnt that bright.. After some digging, we think that the back portion of the screen needs to be changed.. Anyways, it works.. But it doesn't for other bikes especially fazer. It was worth the try..

2008-Current : Kawasaki Kr150 (Share with my brother) SCRAPPED

2010-2011 : Yamaha Spark T135 (Taken over by my neighbour)

2011-Current : Honda Super4 Spec1 (My project bike)

 

Surprisingly, all these bikes still have my name in the insurance. No money to upgrade anymore.

 

Why go to workshop when DIY is easy..?

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Guys, me and my friend did the same thing.. It works well.. But the contrast isnt that bright.. After some digging, we think that the back portion of the screen needs to be changed.. Anyways, it works.. But it doesn't for other bikes especially fazer. It was worth the try..

 

That is correct bro! There are 2 layers to the LCD screen. If the back layer is damaged, need to change both. Normally Vtec1 faces this problem. Recommended to change both back n front layer or else it may still appear faded. For other bikes like the CBR1100XX, Gilera Runner, CBR954, Piaggio X9, FJR1300 Gen1, GSXRk1/2/3 models, have to change the back film as well. Do feel free to contact me if such services are required.

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well, im still finding for the back film.. its harder to get then the front ones as i think the back ones are reflective.. anyways, now the only thing we need to do is find replacements for cracked screen or better if can replace the whole lcd unit..

2008-Current : Kawasaki Kr150 (Share with my brother) SCRAPPED

2010-2011 : Yamaha Spark T135 (Taken over by my neighbour)

2011-Current : Honda Super4 Spec1 (My project bike)

 

Surprisingly, all these bikes still have my name in the insurance. No money to upgrade anymore.

 

Why go to workshop when DIY is easy..?

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Bro,

is it possible to explain how to take out the meter, cause i only manage to find 4 screw instead of 9 screw ?

 

Thanks

 

Well, to take out the meter, we have to start by taking out the headlights.. Just below the meter, you can see it connected to the handlebar brackets(im not sure what its called) its connected by 2 screws.. one on each side.. After removing the screws, your meter could be taken out.. Remember to disconnect the meter.. once you remove the meter, the rest is like taking apart a calculator..

 

Its best if the instructions is pictorial.. It'll will be easier..

 

Anyways, like everything to do with automotive, do at your own risks..

 

I will try upload instructions with pictures when i have the time..

2008-Current : Kawasaki Kr150 (Share with my brother) SCRAPPED

2010-2011 : Yamaha Spark T135 (Taken over by my neighbour)

2011-Current : Honda Super4 Spec1 (My project bike)

 

Surprisingly, all these bikes still have my name in the insurance. No money to upgrade anymore.

 

Why go to workshop when DIY is easy..?

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Bro,

is it possible to explain how to take out the meter, cause i only manage to find 4 screw instead of 9 screw ?

 

Thanks

 

Well, to take out the meter, we have to start by taking out the headlights.. Just below the meter, you can see it connected to the handlebar brackets(im not sure what its called) its connected by 2 screws.. one on each side.. After removing the screws, your meter could be taken out.. Remember to disconnect the meter.. once you remove the meter, the rest is like taking apart a calculator..

 

Its best if the instructions is pictorial.. It'll will be easier..

 

Anyways, like everything to do with automotive, do at your own risks..

 

I will try upload instructions with pictures when i have the time..

2008-Current : Kawasaki Kr150 (Share with my brother) SCRAPPED

2010-2011 : Yamaha Spark T135 (Taken over by my neighbour)

2011-Current : Honda Super4 Spec1 (My project bike)

 

Surprisingly, all these bikes still have my name in the insurance. No money to upgrade anymore.

 

Why go to workshop when DIY is easy..?

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Hi guys and gals,

 

for the LCD Screen fix, it's pretty easy below are the steps and take approximately an hour or less, as this being my first time dismantling the meter (maybe you can do it in lesser time)

 

1) unscrew the headlight (there is two nuts on the side of the headlight think is 12mm screws)

2) unscrew the 02 nuts below the meter (there is 02 nuts below the meter think is 10mm screw)

3) using the allen key unscrew the top nuts supporting the meter (i'm not sure whether this is necessary but by doing so, it enable you to tilt the meter casing for easy removal)

4) after the 3rd steps, unscrew the centre screw, which is holding the meter casing by using the + screw driver, follow by the left and right meter casing.

5) upon reaching this steps, you should have remove all the meter casing, which you should see a white pcb board with about 8 screws

6) Start by unscrewing the 4 screws in the left and right meter in the pcb board, after this, there is two additional screw just below the pcb board which you need to unscrews

7) once you have remove all the 6 screws you should be able to take out the top casing of the meter, you should be able to see your burned polarised film on the lcd panel.

8) before reaching the lcd panel there is one small + screw that you need to take out, it's the fuel indicator panel, just unscrew the fuel indicator panel and you will be able to reach the LCD panel

9) slowly using the adhesive cleaner (i use WD40) and a pen knife to take out the burned polarised film (but before this you need to put kitchen towel approximely 02 pieces will do around the corner to prevent the wd40 for flowing inside the PCB board), once you have cleaned the lcd panel take the new piece of polarised film that you have taken out from the Caculator to slowly measure it to the approximate size and paste it on the lcd panel.

10) congrat you have save yourself a minimum of $80 to $150 on the fixing of the burned meter, and since you have opened up the meter may as well put 02 led strips on the meter to replace the meter bulb for that blink blink effect.

 

Hope this helps, and for any guru who may want to add on anything kindly do so, as i may have left out something.

 

Thank you Guys and Gals, ride safe and god bless everyone....

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Counterstrike: Good job on the instructions. :thumb:

2008-Current : Kawasaki Kr150 (Share with my brother) SCRAPPED

2010-2011 : Yamaha Spark T135 (Taken over by my neighbour)

2011-Current : Honda Super4 Spec1 (My project bike)

 

Surprisingly, all these bikes still have my name in the insurance. No money to upgrade anymore.

 

Why go to workshop when DIY is easy..?

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Thanks bro izzy.uan,

 

i should thanks you instead as you are the one who give me the instructions on how to dismantle the meter, i hope every riders will benefits from this webby as this is the best place for us to pit together what we know and help fellow riders, at the end of the days our ultimate aim is to save money instead of letting the bike shop earned.

 

 

Thank you Bros and SISs.

 

Ride Safe

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Thanks bro izzy.uan,

 

i should thanks you instead as you are the one who give me the instructions on how to dismantle the meter, i hope every riders will benefits from this webby as this is the best place for us to pit together what we know and help fellow riders, at the end of the days our ultimate aim is to save money instead of letting the bike shop earned.

 

 

Thank you Bros and SISs.

 

Ride Safe

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Counterstrike: :cheers:

2008-Current : Kawasaki Kr150 (Share with my brother) SCRAPPED

2010-2011 : Yamaha Spark T135 (Taken over by my neighbour)

2011-Current : Honda Super4 Spec1 (My project bike)

 

Surprisingly, all these bikes still have my name in the insurance. No money to upgrade anymore.

 

Why go to workshop when DIY is easy..?

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meter.jpgblink blink.jpgGuys and Gals,

 

As attached is the LCD panel fix with an old caculator and the blue led strips which i bought on ebay for 4 bucks, the first time i see my fuel panel after i bought my spec 1 from an old uncle 3 years ago, hope can inspire you to do it, trust me you can do even better than me.

 

Cheers bro

Edited by counterstrike
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