e-brake at expressway speeds and low siding

[Jehuty]

Eh why need to heat up the brake fluid? Its temperature sensitive with respective to braking power?

 

Hot brake fluid = expanded brake fluid. Cold ones = contracted. Could be that my brakes are pump is shitty that's why there's alot of diff between braking power when its cold, not raining and when I applied the brakes repeatedly.

[sawfly]

That would be for shifting up.

 

For downshifting, you'd need to blip the throttle, or crack it open quickly while shifting down. To bring engine RPMs to match gear-rpm induced by rear wheel speed. This is trickier to get. Depending on how optimal/non-optimal your coordination is, could possibly lead to premature wear.

 

As mentioned also, braking front-rear, do note that some bikes especially cruisers fare decently well with rear-braking. Lower centre of gravity plus longer wheelbase makes the forward pivot around the front wheel less noticeable. More weight on rear tyre allows it to be used for longer under hardbraking before it loses traction.

 

Some data if you're interested.

 

http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/technical/JAN06Pindx1.pdf

http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/technical/JAN06Pindx2.pdf

http://www.mcnews.com/mcn/technical/JAN06Pindx3.pdf

 

Note the 60-0mph (approx 100kmph-0) stopping distances. The Harley V-Rod is one of the top 10 in short stopping distances.

 

Of course, take it all with a pinch of salt. Who knows if the testers were one and the same, or if some braking ape was able to max out the brakes on the V-rod and a wussy was at the controls of the sportsbikes eh?

 

 

thats like the reverse of clutchless upshift! its probably something i wouldnt want to do often except in an emergency.. even with optimal coordination i think its going to be quite tough on the transmission given that u have to blip to rev match as well..

 

as for the stats.. we wont know! everyone has different braking ability and u dunno how they come out with the values anyway! unless they did the tests with a machine of course.. i think the whole point is to just practise practise practise!

 

Ai seh, otang you one kopi! or we do it govt style. give the information first then charge after the fact. haha.

 

LOLOLOL i thot sv850 was keeping mum bcos its like secret technique!!! dont like that ma sharing session here leh! talk $$$ hurt feeling. talk and drink kopi better =DDD

this kind of technique i think its better fully understand what exactly one is trying to do or else everybody see also want to try and then later screw up their bike... =X

[sawfly]

Hot brake fluid = expanded brake fluid. Cold ones = contracted. Could be that my brakes are pump is shitty that's why there's alot of diff between braking power when its cold, not raining and when I applied the brakes repeatedly.

 

hmm does others experience that as well? it doesnt mean brake fluid need to bleed or not enuff fluid?

[sawfly]

Sawfly,

 

Bleeding is done when there is air trap in your brake line. This will result in spongy feeling when you brake. It doesn't result in wheel lock thou. Still, get rid of the air if you find yoyour brake feels spongy. Get a reliable mechanic to service your bike.

 

As for gear shift without clutching, you are half right.

 

i forgot to mention the night before my crash my rear brake pedal during braking will suddenly go all the way down.. not too sure why.. thats why i thought there's air in my lines..

[SV650]

LOLOLOL i thot sv850 was keeping mum bcos its like secret technique!!! dont like that ma sharing session here leh! talk $$$ hurt feeling. talk and drink kopi better =DDD

this kind of technique i think its better fully understand what exactly one is trying to do or else everybody see also want to try and then later screw up their bike... =X

We are all bikers here. And I totally agree with you talk $$$ hurts. Kopi best! To set the record straight, I've not mention anything about $$$, right?

 

Anyway, not that I sell fish lah. Wait share it and the guy that does not do it correctly, I kena flame here for no good reason.

 

Those who are interested to talk about bike stuff, I've some biker friends meeting up at Carl's Junior East Coast this Friday, 7.30pm onwards. I'll probably be there around 9pm. Drop by if free.

Edited October 16, 2012 by SV650

[sawfly]

We are all bikers here. And I totally agree with you talk $$$ hurts. Kopi best! To set the record straight, I've not mention anything about $$$, right?

 

Anyway, not that I sell fish lah. Wait share it and the guy that does not do it correctly, I kena flame here for no good reason.

 

Those who are interested to talk about bike stuff, I've some biker friends meeting up at Carl's Junior East Coast this Friday, 7.30pm onwards. I'll probably be there around 9pm. Drop by if free.

 

talk $ hurt feeling ma.. someone talk abt charging leh.. =D this kind of info should be in a sticky or something.. with precautions of course for the overzealous wan to try on everything kind of ppl!

 

lol i wouldnt be able to make it this friday but side track i suddenly wondering how come there aint a kopitiam or cafe gathering place for bikers? put a trustworthy mechanic there and it will be a one stop place sia!

[maosi21]

sometimes might be jamming the brakes to aggressively. but this kinda thing is a knee jerk reaction. it's like braking on those wet carpark floors, the smooth kind. Even medium strength braking sometimes can skid also..

 

use engine brake also helps, it doesn't lock up the tire entirely. Using it in unison with mild braking can help.

[ghost04]

maybe ts might wanna try out defensive riding course?

its quite fun. they will make u clutch in n use only rear brake to stop.

deliberate skidding n they will also wet the road...

somehow u can control the skid n wont fall...tats why i thought of fun more than danger...

[hachi]

Clear water, heat up the brake fluid, if im not wrong

I would say heat up the pads a bit... Most pads of they are too cold and the additional water on the disc, they dont bite so well in the wet..

[hachi]

hmm does others experience that as well? it doesnt mean brake fluid need to bleed or not enuff fluid?

 

Change it periodically as they degrade with water in it...As the wet boiling point drop, when you brake too much, on a hot day or down the canyon, like genting then fresh oil is must...Why i say so...Brake oil is the weakest link in the brake system. A lousy brakes pads fade at maybe 300-400C. Brake oil...they boils at 180-200c or so...The best brake oil in the market the Motul RBF 600, wet boiling point is 212C..The dry point boiling point is a good 100C above it....What i am trying to illustrated is degrading of brake oil, usually the primary factor of brake failure...And we are talking about the best brake oil...I am sure most uses what the shop recommend, then the wet boiling point will drop significantly to maybe 150c or so...When it boils u introduce air bubbles which is not a good thing....

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?form_cat_id=729&action=category

[Hydher]

At the centre, they will teach you how to lock your rear wheel. But in riding on public roads, debris might cause you to skid altogether.

My suggestion is not to follow the traffic's safety distance but what you can manage.

[naim]

i usually keep to one side of the lane, so that if vehicle in front e-brake, i can siam and squeeze in between the vehicles. i rather whack some side mirrors than head-on into their bumpers. saved me a couple of times. at least the extra braking distance allows me to be more gentle on the brakes and slow down progressively rather than lock up either wheels.

[hachi]

i usually keep to one side of the lane, so that if vehicle in front e-brake, i can siam and squeeze in between the vehicles. i rather whack some side mirrors than head-on into their bumpers. saved me a couple of times. at least the extra braking distance allows me to be more gentle on the brakes and slow down progressively rather than lock up either wheels.

 

I usually ride like this, only when the vehicles is stationary then I LS...For eg, approaching the traffic light...